home-Designers-General information about clothing. Functions of clothing. Classification of clothing

General information about clothing. Functions of clothing. Classification of clothing

It often happens that people who are far from sewing are confused about certain concepts relating to the belonging of a particular item of clothing to a certain category. Let's look at the range of sewing products.

Classification of clothing made from fabrics

For general purposes:

  • household clothes,
  • sports,
  • special,
  • departmental,
  • national

By functional purpose:

  • outerwear,
  • Lightweight clothing,
  • underwear,
  • hats.

By style decisions:

  • classic style,
  • sport style,
  • “Fantasy” (great decorativeness).

By season:

  • winter clothes,
  • summer,
  • demi-season,
  • off-season.

By gender and age:

  • women's,
  • male,
  • children's room

For product processing:

  • tough,
  • soft,
  • semi-rigid.

By product purpose:

  • home clothes,
  • casual,
  • day off,
  • for relax.

By type of clothing (group assortment):

  • outerwear (coat, short coat, peacoat, cape, blazer, tunic, tailcoat, jacket, suit, raincoat),
  • light clothing (dress, dress-coat, sundress, skirt, other dress items),
  • underwear (outerwear, underwear).

Men's outerwear

Let's start with men's outerwear. This category includes not only coats, jackets and other insulated items, but also shirts, jackets, trousers, jeans and other items men's wardrobe, except for underwear and hosiery.

Coats, depending on fashion, can be of different lengths, sewn from a variety of warm materials, and classified by silhouette and shape. Seasons are divided into winter, summer and demi-season. Typically, coats are made in a strict shape, semi-fitting or straight silhouette, single-breasted or double-breasted. The back is one-piece or with a seam ending in a slot. Pockets with flap or patch pockets; set-in or raglan sleeves; The collar and lapels can be of very different styles.

A short coat differs from a coat by a noticeably shorter length.

Raincoats are made from waterproof and water-repellent fabrics, as well as from film materials. A type of cloak is a cape.

The jacket has a sporty style and is short in length; it can end at the waist or reach mid-thigh. Buttons or zippers are used as fasteners.

A men's suit can consist of two or more items (a two-piece suit - a jacket and trousers or a three-piece suit, consisting of a jacket, trousers and a vest). The suit jacket can be single-breasted or double-breasted. U double-breasted jacket half-skid side up to 12 cm and two rows of buttons, of which one row is fastened. Form men's suits There are classic and sports.

The trousers consist of two front and two back halves, which are connected by side and crotch seams. The bottom fastener of trousers is called a flap; as a rule, the fastener is a zipper and, less often, buttons. The top clasp with hidden loops is called a codpiece. Belt loops are sewn onto the waistband of the trousers to thread the belt through. To maintain the shape, a grosgrain ribbon is sewn under the belt. Pants can be with or without pockets. To protect against deformation, a lining is sewn to the front halves of the trousers. The bottom of the trousers is finished with braid. Pants according to the season are divided into winter, demi-season and summer. The styles of trousers are very diverse: shorts, trousers, riding breeches, breeches, jeans, Bermuda shorts, cargo, narrow straight trousers.

Women's outerwear

Clothing for women is distinguished by a wide variety of products, styles and materials used in tailoring.

The silhouette of a women's coat can be straight, fitted or loose, with or without a belt. Coat sleeves are set-in, raglan, one-piece, etc. Depending on the season, coats are divided into winter, summer, demi-season and off-season. In the manufacture of winter women's coats they use more details - they can be sewn with hoods, scarves, capes, and shawl collars. The coat fasteners have buttons, zippers, hidden, asymmetrical. Women's coats, unlike men's, have a variety of finishes. When sewing women's coats, fabrics of different textures and patterns can be used, creating interesting color schemes.

Raincoats are made from water-repellent materials and come in a variety of styles. Raincoats may have a snap-on insulating lining made from faux fur or pile fabrics.

A women's suit can consist of a jacket and skirt or a skirt, vest and jacket. The jacket can be of different lengths, have different style collar, with or without lapels. There are also trouser suits for women, in which trousers take the place of a skirt.

Like men's jackets, women's jackets are sewn single-breasted or double-breasted. The fasteners are open and hidden; jackets are also made without fasteners, with freely diverging flaps. The shape of pockets can be very diverse. A women's jacket can take more liberties than a men's jacket.

Skirts can be wide, narrow, straight or flared, with or without pleats. Folds are divided into hard, soft, counter, byte, and one-sided. Skirts can be corrugated, pleated, with or without a yoke.

Women's trousers contain the same elements as men's trousers, but differ in a greater variety of materials used, shapes and finishing details.

Children's outerwear

Assortment of children's outerwear: coats, jackets, raincoats, overalls, suits, jackets, vests, dresses, skirts and much more.

Children's clothing has its own characteristics - bright colors, a variety of cuts and silhouettes, soft lines, expressive details, a variety of decorative finishes and patterns. The main style of clothing is sports. The fabrics used are cheaper, lighter, softer, with a more vibrant color design.

Light dress

Range light dress: dress, dress-robe, dress-coat, sundress, dressing gown, peignoir, blouse, vest, skirt-pants, cardigan and other lightweight products.

According to the cut, dresses are divided into one-piece and cut-off. The main details of the dress: back, front, sleeves (or sleeveless), collar.

Dresses can be of various styles: classic, folk style(with embroidery, lace, trim), tunic dress, evening, wedding, cocktail dresses. Dresses can have different necklines, sleeve cuts, collars, and pocket styles.

Dresses can be divided into:

  • by age - for adults, for girls;
  • by season - summer, winter, demi-season.

A sundress is a type of dress without sleeves and a collar, sometimes with straps, with a cape or a lightweight jacket. A cape is a sleeveless cape that can be worn on its own or as a cape for a dress or sundress. Cardigan - long jacket straight cut without collar. Blouses are worn either tucked in or over a skirt or trousers. Blouses can be of a wide variety of silhouettes and finishes, classic and sporty style, fantasy. Sarong is a skirt loosely wrapped around the hips, wrapping from one third to half of the total volume. A type of skirt is culotte.

Hats

Hats are part of a costume that protects a person from rain, cold, and sun. The range of hats is influenced by fashion.

The range of hats is classified:

  • by gender and age - male, female, children;
  • by season - winter, summer, demi-season;
  • according to the materials used - felt, fur, leather, knitwear, straw, film materials;
  • by processing - soft, hard, semi-hard;
  • in form - strict, sporty, “fantasy”;
  • for its intended purpose - for summer holiday, casual, dressy, sporty.

An assortment of headwear - hats, berets, caps, caps, sports caps, berets, budenovki, jockeys, bashlykas, baseball caps and others.

Clothing requirements

The quality of clothing is characterized by a combination of consumer and production properties of the product, which determine the degree of its suitability for its intended use. The consumer properties of clothing are determined by hygienic, operational and aesthetic requirements. Production properties - cost-effectiveness and manufacturability of product design.

Hygienic requirements for clothing include protecting the body from exposure to adverse factors external environment, from mechanical damage, ensuring normal functioning of the body. Hygienic requirements are ensured appropriate selection materials for clothing, multi-layering and product design.

Operational requirements ensure compliance of products with working or leisure conditions, durability and reliability of clothing in operation. Clothing must provide freedom of movement and breathing for a person, freely putting it on and taking it off. Freedom of movement is created due to special allowances for the dimensions of the parts and due to the presence of folds, cuts or expansion of the shape downwards. Ease of use is determined in clothing by the design of individual areas, for example, the accessible location of fasteners, pockets, etc. Clothing must have the necessary strength to provide resistance to the forces acting on the parts of the product and their connections during various human movements. The reliability of clothing should be understood as its trouble-free service throughout the entire period of wear. certain conditions until moral and physical wear and tear.

Clothing must not only provide wear resistance, but also maintain the shape of the parts obtained during processing. At the same time, clothing should be flexible and soft so as not to create inconvenience when a person moves. These requirements depend on correct selection gaskets for products, design of clothing components.

Aesthetic requirements include decoration clothing, selection of materials by color, pattern, decoration, compliance with the proportions of clothing parts.

Production requirements are aimed at ensuring the manufacture of clothing with rational use materials and minimal processing complexity, which are the main factors in reducing the cost of products.

To provide High Quality products and reduce the labor intensity of their production, they use technologically advanced designs, the development of which takes into account the possibility of using the most effective methods production of clothing, new equipment and implementation of comprehensive mechanization and automation of clothing production.

Based on the materials “RANGE AND DESIGN OF GARMENT PRODUCTS (manual)”.

Editor: Ilyin A.A.

FABRIC CARE SIGNS

As you know, materials and fabrics require a certain approach, because their structure is different. What does not harm cotton fabrics will have a bad effect on silk. Such delicate fabrics require a delicate approach - they should not be wrung out using a centrifuge. washing machine, iron with a slightly heated iron.

Pile fabrics also require special attention. When washing clothes made from such materials, the product should be turned inside out and the water should be heated to no more than 30°C. Items made from pile fabrics should not be twisted, but rather gently wrung out, wrapped in terry cloth. When ironing, the iron is held in the direction of the pile, without applying strong pressure, otherwise the fibers will be wrinkled and the product will take on an untidy and very unattractive appearance.

Knitwear and jersey from natural fibers prefers dry cleaning, because... When washed, such items stretch and lose their shape. The heating of the iron is determined by the composition of the fabrics and the percentage of fibers, as well as the percentage of synthetics.

List distinctive features care various fabrics maybe for a long time. But why? Nowadays, clothing manufacturing companies always provide us with all the necessary information using special signs on the labels of finished clothes.

1 Hand wash.

2 Washing is prohibited.

3 Hand wash only at a maximum temperature of 30 degrees, do not rub or wring.

4 Hand or machine wash at temperatures not higher than specified.

5 Hand or machine wash. Carefully adhere to the specified temperature, do not subject it to strong mechanical processing, rinse, gradually turning to cold water, and when spinning in the washing machine, set the centrifuge to a slow setting.

6 Very delicate wash large quantities water, minimum mechanical restoration, fast rinse at low speed.

7 Washing with bleaches containing chlorine is allowed. Use only cold water, ensure complete dissolution of the powder.

8 When washing, do not use products containing bleach (chlorine).

9 Ironing is allowed.

10 Allowed to iron at a maximum temperature of 110 degrees. The same rules apply to synthetic fibers: nylon, polyester, acetate and others. Use a cloth pad, do not use steam.

11 Ironing is allowed at a maximum temperature of 150 degrees. Suitable for wool and mixed fibers with polyester and viscose. Use a damp cloth.

12 Allowed to iron at a maximum temperature of 200 degrees. Acceptable for linen and cotton. You can slightly moisten the product.

13 Dry clean only.

14 Dry cleaning with any solvent.

15 Cleaning with hydrocarbon, ethylene chloride and monofluorotrichloromethane only.

16 Cleaning using only hydrocarbon and trifluorotrichloromethane.

17 Cleaning only with hydrocarbon, ethylene chloride and monofluorotrichloromethane with limited addition of water, control of mechanical stress and drying temperature.

18 Cleaning with hydrocarbon and trifluorotrichloromethane only with limited addition of water, control of mechanical stress and drying temperature.

19 Allowed to wring and dry in a washing machine.

20 Do not wring or dry in a washing machine.

21 Dry at a warm temperature.

22 Dry at hot temperature.

23 After spinning, vertical drying is allowed.

24 Dry without spinning.

25 Dry on a horizontal surface.

basic concepts about clothing, such as - part, front (front), back, central part of front or back, flank, sleeve, collar, half of trousers, skirt panel, shoulder pad, details of top, lining and lining, as well as conceptsfunctions, classification, range, type and purpose of clothing.

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Lecture No. 1: Basic concepts about clothing and its classification

Cloth – a product or a set of products covering partially or completely the human body. Serves to ensure human life and interaction with the surrounding social and material environment.

Detail - this is a part of a flat material obtained as a result of division to create a three-dimensional shape of the product. Clothes detail - a one-piece (or consisting of elements) part of a garment. This can be the front (front), back, sleeve, collar, left or right half of the trousers, back or front panel of the skirt, etc.Development of clothing parts– a surface of the three-dimensional shape of clothing parts unfolded onto a plane, taking into account the measurements of the human figure, constructive additions to these measurements and technological allowances.

Each piece of clothing has a technological name.

Before – main the front part of a shoulder garment, one-piece or consisting of parts.

Shelf – the main front part of a shoulder garment, having a slit or fastener from the neck line to the hem line.

Back - the main back part of a garment, whole or consisting of parts.

Center front or back -the front or back part of a garment, the composite central (middle) part of the front (front) or back, located between their side parts.

Barrel – a side part of a garment, an integral side part of the front (front) or back.

Sleeve – part of a garment that completely or partially covers the hand. Can be cut together or separately with a shelf and a back.

Collar – double (top and bottom) or a single piece of a garment, cut from basic materials,intended to express artistic idea models, can perform a heat-protective function. Using the detail of the lower collar, the detail of the upper collar is cut out.

Trouser half, left (or right) – the front (or back) part of a belt item, covering the front or back of the left (or right) lower part of the body and leg.

Skirt panel -the front (or back) part of a waist garment covering the front (or back) lower part of the torso and legs.

Shoulder pad– a part of a garment designed to give a stable shape to the shoulder part of the product and form the shoulder girdle of the figure.

Top detail – a part of a garment made from a base material (or materials), whole-cut or consisting of parts.

Lining detail –part of a garment, whole or consisting of parts, cut from lining material along the contours (with slight differences) of the parts of the product, designed to decorate the inner (wrong) side of the product, protect against rapid wear and create comfort in wearing.

Gasket detail –a part of a garment, one-piece or consisting of parts, cut from a special material (clamlin, non-woven fabric, insulating materials, etc.), located between the parts of the top and lining and serving to give shape or insulate the model.

Product function - purpose or service role of the product.Functionality- compliance of the product with its intended purpose, the ability of the product to perform a specific service, i.e. the ability to perform one or another function in the process of human life.

Classification of clothing– separation modern clothes into assortment groups depending on gender and age, manufacturing method, season, function and style. Clothes are divided into outerwear and casual wear; clothing for leisure, sports, tourism; elegant, festive and evening clothes; special purpose clothing - for special occasions, wedding, etc.

Range - a number of products, divided by types, names, purpose, grades and raw materials used.Assortment of clothing– a set of products various types and destinations combined into separate groups according to certain characteristics (materials of manufacture, dimensions, purpose, etc.), produced by industry to satisfy consumer demand.

Type of clothing – a set of sewing products, united into an independent group according to certain characteristics, similar in purpose and similar in model and design solution. So, the type of clothing - outerwear includes - summer coat, demi-season coat, winter coat, short coat, jacket, etc.

Lightweight clothing – clothing related to casual, summer or other types of clothing, made from lightweight materials and not used for play big role in warming the body (sundresses, dresses, blouses, shirts, trousers, etc.). A dress is sometimes understood as clothing worn over underwear. It could be a suit, a dress, a blouse, a skirt, etc.

Outerwear - clothing worn over underwear, which mainly serves to thermally insulate the body. These are dresses, skirts, jackets, trousers, coats, etc. Outerwear also means clothing worn over a dress depending on the season (coat, raincoat, etc.).

Each type of clothing is divided into assortment subtypes (groups) according to certain characteristics: purpose, operating conditions, seasonal, age and gender, type of material, etc.

Assortment groupis a series of products that perform one function and one purpose. The signs of dividing clothing into assortment groups are the basis various classifications: trade, clothing, decimal classification system for clothing OKP (All-Union Classifier of Industrial and Agricultural Products).

Purpose of clothing - on this basis, clothing is divided into assortment groups in accordance with the intended purpose, area, conditions and methods of operation, seasonal and age-gender purposes, based on raw materials, etc. In accordance withintended purposeclothing is divided into household, sports, industrial, uniform and ritual.terms of Useclothes are divided into everyday or weekend wear, the method of its use is divided into upper, lower (worn directly on the body) and corsetry.

Operating area- specification of conditions And method of application. For example, casual clothes for home, work or walking, etc. specified depending on the method of use. For example, clothes for the home are divided into clothes for relaxing at home, cleaning, working in the garden, etc.

By seasonalClothes are divided into summer, winter, off-season and seasonal.

By gender and ageclothes are divided into men's and boys', women's and girls', clothes for adults, children and teenagers (15...18 years old). Clothing for adults is divided into junior; (18...29 years old), middle (30...45 years old) and older (over 45 years old) age groups. Children's clothing is divided into clothes for newborns, nurseries, preschoolers, and juniors. school age, for high school age.

By raw materials (types of materials)clothing is divided into groups depending on the fibrous composition of the material of the main parts of the product - clothing made from materials made from natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool, silk), mixed, synthetic (chemical), clothing made from one material and combined.

According to the degree of production readinessclothing is divided into ready-made clothing (suitable for use) and semi-finished products (with unfinished processing of some components for the purpose of further fitting the product to the figure). Clothes can be made for mass and specific consumers.

Coding of clothing parts and assemblies.Parts and assemblies of clothing are coded for use at various stages of production computer equipment. A code or a set of interrelated fonts is a conventional abbreviated designation of products in the classifier. When coding, the decimal classification of garments in the All-Russian Product Classifier (OKP) is used. Sewing products are divided according to various types of characteristics, successively into classes, subclasses, types, groups, subgroups, types, subtypes, variants. The main, most common feature in the classification is the functionality of clothing. On this basis, depending on the purpose, clothing is divided into 1 - into the class of household clothing (in the code, the first digit is 1), 2 - into the class of sportswear (the first digit is 2) and 3 - into the class of industrial clothing (the first digit is 3). Then each class of clothing is divided depending on the specialization of industry, trade, operating conditions, and then according to a narrower purpose - into subclasses, types, groups and subgroups. The basis of the purpose of clothing is its protective function. Household clothing serves to protect the human body from the adverse effects of the environment, sports clothing - to protect the athlete from injuries and achieve higher sports results, industrial clothing - to protect the employee from the adverse effects of the environment and production environment. Then the class of household clothing is divided into subclasses (the second digit in the code, after the number 1) - linen products; suit and dress; outerwear; corsetry; hats; gloves and mittens. In turn, each subclass of clothing is divided into types (the third digit in the code, after the second digit). Thus, the subclass of costume and dress products can be divided into the following types:

1.2.1 – jackets; 1.2.6 – trousers;

1.2.3 – jackets; 1.2.7 – shirts;

1.2.4 – vests; 1.2.8 – dresses;

1.2.5 – blouses; 1.2.9 – dresses-suits;

1.2.10 – skirts, etc.

Each type of household clothing, depending on the conditions and place of its use, is classified into casual, elegant, home, industrial, entertainment, uniform, and leisure clothing.

Casual weardesigned for various activities (work, study, walking, visiting exhibitions, etc.) and is worn throughout the day. Special group in casual clothing constitutes work clothing. The style of everyday clothing is influenced by the type of activity and nature of a person’s work, his lifestyle. For example, working in an office or studying is characterized by business attire and strict classical requirements for hairstyle, suit and shoes.

Elegant clothes - Clothes for special occasions, celebrations, receptions, holidays, etc. It creates a special mood and festive atmosphere. Dressy clothes, depending on the event and purpose, are divided into clothes for home celebrations, official receptions, balls, weddings, visits to theaters, etc.

Leisure wear– clothing that is comfortable, functional, and able to reflect a person’s individuality. These are clothes for sports, walking, relaxing by the sea, visiting discos, clubs, etc.

Home clothes – casual wear for relaxation and work at home. Its type depends on the type of activity at home. These can be traditional dressing gowns, negligees, aprons or jeans, knitted T-shirts and jumpers.

Sportswear- special clothing for professional or amateur sports. Sports professional clothing for special sports is made from the latest materials, taking into account the modern requirements of a particular sport as much as possible.

Industrial clothing- workwear for work in production, its type depends on the conditions, type production activities human and labor protection requirements. These could be overalls, road workers’ vests, doctors’ coats, etc. Workwear for working in an unfavorable environment for humans performs a protective function and should be as comfortable as possible for performing work. These are clothes for workers in chemical production, the oil and gas industry, steelworkers, miners, etc., made from fire-resistant, waterproof, oil-repellent special materials, etc.

Spectacular clothes- costumes of various types, for performances, playing roles in the theater, cinema, concerts, circus, participation in carnival, folk dance and musical performances. Such clothing should correspond to the character of a particular performance and create a vivid image.

Uniform- a uniform indicating membership in a particular organization or department. Significant and protective functions are significant in clothing.

Depending on the method of fastening on a person’s figure, clothing is divided into shoulder and waist. From the method of placement on the figure - to lower, light and outer clothing.

Belt clothing - clothing that rests on the surface of the body between the waist or hip lines (on the waist or pelvic girdle) and partially or completely covers the lower torso and lower limbs. This includes various cuts of skirts, trousers, and aprons.

Shoulder clothing – clothing that rests on the shoulder girdle or part of the torso located in the upper back and chest. These are various cuts of dresses, blouses, shirts, jackets, coats, etc.

Underwear - underwear or underwear worn directly on the body, serving to ensure the normal functioning of the skin and regulate the heat exchange of the human body. This could be panties, a T-shirt, corsetry, an undershirt, etc. There are casual underwear, sleepwear, and sports underwear.

Corsetry– products that form and support individual parts of the body and are worn directly on the human body. This could be a bra, grace, corset, etc.

The range of sewing products is very diverse and includes many types of clothing. Sewing products are classified as follows:

    By purpose: household; sports; special; departmental; national;

    By style decision: classic; sports; "fantasy";

    By materials used: from fabrics; nonwoven materials; film materials; duplicate materials; artificial leather; genuine leather; from combinations of various materials;

    By wearing season: summer; demi-season; winter; off-season;

    By gender and age: women's; men's; children's (for school, preschool and nursery ages);

    By sizes, heights and plumpness. For female figure indicate parameters: height; size (chest circumference at the most protruding points) and fullness (hip circumference), for men - height; chest circumference; waist circumference; neck circumference (for shirts);

    By nature of the support: shoulder; waist; gloves; hats.

Household clothing, according to operating conditions, is divided into home, everyday, weekend (evening), for special occasions, etc. Sportswear is distinguished depending on the type of sport: for motorcycling and cycling, for speed skating, skiing, water sports, for tennis, football, etc. Industrial clothing is intended for people working in various industries, agriculture, transport, etc. Departmental (uniform) clothing has various purposes and is used in the army, police and other departments. National clothes presented national costumes various peoples.

Cloth classic style characterized by emphasized rigor of form and a minimum of details. Decorative finishing almost absent from clothing. The lines of the form are simple and concise. Sports style clothing is characterized by emphasized freedom of shape and a variety of sleeve designs: set-in, raglan, one-piece, combined. The following details are characteristic of the sporty style: patch and fastening pockets, flaps, belts, straps, stitched and detachable yokes, cuffs, folds, vents; attention is focused on various accessories. Clothes of “fantasy” shapes are distinguished by great decorativeness and a variety of shapes and details, complex cut, and elegant finishing (lace, embroidery, fur). The division of the form may be unusual (asymmetrical);

Outerwear includes suits, jackets, coats, short coats, jackets, jackets, etc.

Coat According to the degree of protection from cold and bad weather, there are summer, demi-season, and winter. The length of the coat is different and varies depending on fashion.

Short coat represents short coat, which is longer than a jacket but shorter than a coat.

Cloak similar to a coat, but made from water-repellent materials.

Suits- clothing consisting of two or three items: a jacket (jacket) and trousers (skirt), and sometimes a sleeveless vest.

Jacket- sports-style clothing, which is a type of jacket, with a slit from top to bottom and a fastener.

Blazer- main view men's clothing, the cut resembles a coat, differs in a jacket-type collar and fastener, the style is single-breasted or double-breasted.

Jackets- garments similar in design to a jacket, but for women; can be with long or short sleeves, with or without a shape-resistant lining.

Dress- a type of light clothing characterized by a wide variety of styles and the most influenced fashion. The length of the dress is varied - to the knee, below the knee and to the floor.

Sundress the cut resembles a dress, but without sleeves, sometimes with straps, usually without a collar, but can also be with a collar. The sundress is worn with a blouse or jacket.

Blouses similar in shape and cut to top part dresses - bodice. Blouses can be split or one-piece, with a front or back fastening, with or without sleeves and a collar; They are worn tucked into a skirt or over a skirt (trousers).

Sleeveless vests and vests- a type of jacket without sleeves, length to the hip line or just below the waist line, with or without a collar. The front vest must be split, and the sleeveless vest can be split or solid. They wear sleeveless vests and vests over a blouse with a skirt, trousers or dress.

Skirts They come in a variety of shapes, with a wide, narrow or corsage belt, with a clasp or wraparound, they are sewn unlined or lined.

Skirts- this is very wide pants, similar in appearance to a skirt, with pleats at the front and back.

Trousers- waist clothing of various shapes and various lengths, on a belt, usually with a fastener on the sides. Long trousers are worn untucked or tucked into shoes. Pants that reach the knee are called breeches, those that reach the calves are called knee socks, and those that are short above the knee are called shorts.

Overalls consists of a bodice with trousers of various lengths. Jumpsuits can be with or without sleeves and collars, cut at the waist or one-piece, split at the front or back, with a fastening at the front, back or side.

Overalls consists of trousers with a chest part of the bodice and straps.

Cape- these are sleeveless clothes with armholes various shapes. The length of the cape can be up to the chest, waist, hips, knee, or floor. The front is split, with or without a fastener. Drapes can be independent clothing or complement a dress, sundress, dress-suit, dress-coat.

Aprons and aprons- protective clothing of various shapes that covers the human figure partially or completely. The apron covers only the front part of the figure.

According to their intended purpose, sewing linen is divided into body linen; bed; dining room; according to age and gender - female, male, children; by size, height, type and style.

Underwear includes outer shirts and pajamas for leisure, combinations, long johns for men and boys, briefs, swimming trunks, sets, sets of two or more items, underwear for newborns, corsetry and bras. Pajamas and nightgowns are intended for sleep: men's, women's, children's. Pajamas consist of a single-breasted or double-breasted jacket and loose trousers with a belt with elastic or buttons. Clothes for newborns are baby vests, shirts, rompers, sandboxes, breast aprons, envelopes for newborns, caps. Corsetry is women's underwear worn directly on the body and designed to shape the figure. They are made from fabrics and knitted fabrics that are characterized by elasticity, hygiene, resistance to tearing, abrasion and repeated stretching. They are trimmed with lace, braid, embroidery, etc. Corsetry products are produced tough - from special fabrics with a large number of plastic or metal plates (bones), elastic- made of elastic materials, combined. The following types of corsetry are known:

    belt, form-fitting below the waist, single and double, narrow and wide with holders for stockings, the length of which is adjustable with buckles;

    corset- a rigidly shaped product that tightly covers the torso from the line under the mammary glands to the hip line;

    grace- combines a bra and a corset;

    semi-corset - wide, rigid belt;

    semi-grace- bra with a wide belt to the waistline;

    belt-panties and belt-knickers- form a figure in the abdominal area and may have holders for stockings;

    combidresses - combine the bra with panties or knickers.

Bra sizes are indicated by conventional cup numbers - from 0 to 10 and torso girth at the base of the chest; belts and half-corsets - waist circumference in centimeters; corsets, panty belts and pantaloon belts - waist and hip circumference; grace - cup number, waist and hip circumference in centimeters, semi-grace - cup number and waist circumference.

Bed sheets includes sheets, duvet covers, pillowcases and quilts. Sheets are made from bleached, variegated or printed fabrics. Duvet covers are open with sides and closed like a cover, pillowcases - pillow, mattress, mattress.

Table white represented by tablecloths, napkins and towels of various sizes, shapes, finishes and raw materials. Available in single versions and in the form of sets.

Headgear includes hats, Panama hats, children's caps, bonnets, bonnets, Panama hats, fezzes, caps, caps, berets, skullcaps, jockeys, sailor suits, and helmets. For the manufacture of hats, fabrics of various fibrous compositions and various types of finishing, natural and artificial fur, artificial and synthetic leather, felt, straw, etc. are used. Buckles, pins, buttons, brooches, flowers, ribbons, etc. are widely used for decoration. . Kepi- These are soft hats with a visor and a narrow band. Cap has a wide hard band and a varnished or fabric-covered visor. Beret- a soft round or oval headdress with or without a band. Helmet fits tightly around the head and covers the ears.

Clothing plays a huge role in people's daily lives, as do food and shelter. It is an essential item because it protects a person from heat, cold, and precipitation. Clothes is a collection of items with which a person covers his body completely or partially. The head is covered with a hood, the body and limbs with overalls; the upper part of the body is dressed in a jacket, jacket, blouse, shirt; the lower part of the body and lower limbs - in trousers, a skirt.

Hats that cover the head, gloves that protect the hands, and shoes that protect the feet serve the same purpose as clothing and are additions to it. Together with clothes, these items make up a set, an ensemble.

The protective function of clothing is not the only one. Another function of clothing is informational, because clothing everywhere and at all times has served as a distinctive sign of a person’s social affiliation or professional activity. The third function that clothing performs is aesthetic. Clothing is an object of human material culture, it bears the features of a historical era, national character, individual creative characteristics, and therefore is an object everywhere aesthetic perception.

At different periods of his life, a person wears not just one thing, but several. Each of them is intended for use in certain conditions: at home, at work, on vacation or while playing sports. That is why all clothing is divided into household, industrial and sports.

The most extensive class is the household clothing class. This clothing, to a certain extent, performs all three functions: protective, informational, aesthetic.. Depending on the environment in which household clothing is used, it is divided into casual, elegant, and home.

Industrial clothing performs a protective function to the maximum extent, as it is designed to protect a person from the harmful influences of the production environment. Industrial clothing is divided into special clothing - for lumberjacks, miners, firefighters - and departmental clothing - for military personnel and police officers. Departmental clothing most clearly performs an information function.

The class of sportswear is designed to achieve maximum sports results, to protect athletes from injury, and therefore fully performs a protective function. Sportswear is divided into clothing for specific sports: for tennis players, football players, figure skating masters, etc. Sportswear largely performs an aesthetic function, since sporting competitions are spectacular events and require bright, memorable, beautiful design.

Due to established practices in clothing production and trade, each clothing class is divided into smaller groups.

Household clothing is divided into underwear, dress or suit and outerwear. Underwear is items of underwear worn directly on the human body: panties, undershirt. A dress or suit is clothing worn over underwear. This includes a jacket, jacket, jacket, trousers, skirt, dress, vest. Over a dress or suit, outerwear is worn, which includes a coat, short coat, and raincoat.

Each item of clothing is made from materials of different fiber composition, so all clothing is divided into products made from cotton, linen, wool, silk, mixed or synthetic materials. This grouping of clothing is called classification by materials.

Clothes are worn at all times of the year, so they are classified by season into summer, winter, autumn-spring or demi-season and all-season. Summer clothes include a sundress, shorts; for winter - a winter coat, a fur coat. An insulated jacket is demi-season clothing, and a jacket is all-season clothing.

Clothes for people of different genders and ages cannot be the same, so classification by gender and age is very important both for those who wear clothes and for those who produce and sell them. Household and sportswear They are divided into men's, women's and children's. Industrial clothing is only available for men or women.

The classification of clothing by size and height is also important for everyone. Each person's height and body size change throughout their lives. People of the same age and gender can have different heights and sizes. Classification by size and size is necessary in order to choose suitable clothing for each person.

General information about clothes.Functions of clothing.

Classification of clothing

1.1. Short story development of clothing and methods of its production.

Modern clothing is the result of centuries of human experience, one of his wonderful inventions. Clothing is the object of our study. In order to better understand the patterns of shaping the design of modern clothing, we will perform short excursion to the past.

Clothing has gone through a long and complex development process before becoming as comfortable and functional as it is now.

Ancient man used clothing as a “small dwelling,” that is, shelter from bad weather and as protection from the forces of nature. The main function of clothing during this period – protective . The first coverings of the human body were leaves, tree bark, and animal skins. At the end of this first period of clothing development, man mastered the art of weaving and spinning, and the manual creation of fabrics began.

The second period of clothing development was characterized by wrapping the body with a specially woven piece of fabric. An example of such clothing is the draped clothing of the ancient Greeks and Romans. In India it is still preserved in the national women's suit(sari). Draped clothing already had not only protective, but also aesthetic function.

The beginning of the next period is characterized by the appearance of tailored clothing (9th century AD). Clothes were made from rectangular pieces of fabric connected by seams. The prototype of such clothing was the Roman tunic; it served as the basis for a variety of tunic-like shirts, for example the Russian tunic shirt.

Rice. 1. Russian shirt and ports (pants)

The emergence of tailoring in Western Europe date back to the 12th century, in Russian cities - approximately to the 14th century. IN medieval Rus' clothes were called "ports" or "tailors", and the craftsmen who made the clothes were called "tailors". Medieval masters of the 12th century. To give clothes the shape of the human body, they began to make cutouts on the sides and connect the edges with lacing. It is believed that the idea of ​​dismembering clothing into pieces was borrowed by tailors from the inventors of detachable knightly armor.

Around the 13th century. Clothes with sewn-in sleeves appeared in the 14th century. - swinging clothes and collars, and in the 17th century. – clothes with pockets.

The first fashion magazines with outlines of cut details in the form of sketches appeared in the 18th century, and then the first cutting systems appeared. Pattern drawings appear in early XIX V.

The specifics of clothing of the 20th century are determined, first of all, by the transition to the industrial method of its production, which replaced the centuries-old tailoring craft. The frame base disappears, clothing becomes shorter and becomes more comfortable. Characteristic Features The twentieth century is also the birth of a fundamentally new type women's clothing and rapid change of fashion.

Clothing, which arose mainly to protect the human body from adverse climatic and atmospheric influences, under the influence of various historical, social and economic conditions, national characteristics, aesthetic ideas of society has undergone many changes, reached a wide variety of types and forms and has become the subject of applied art.

Rice. 2. Modification of the suit shape in the twentieth century

1.2. Functions of clothing.

Function (from Latin Functio - activity, purpose) means responsibility, range of activity.

Function of clothing – this is the service role performed by clothing in accordance with its purpose.

The main functions of modern clothing are:

1. Utilitarian (practical), includes practical, protective, ergonomic, hygienic functions;

2. Social (informational), includes regional, professional, ritual, erotic, symbolic, sign functions;

3. Aesthetic, includes aesthetic and artistic functions.

The functions of clothing have evolved historically. The way of life of society affected the nature of the use of clothing. On early stages During the development of society, clothing served as protection from the influences of nature and climate. Gradually, elements appeared in clothing, necessary for a person, for example, belts, shoulder bags, then waist pouches, etc. Clothing began to perform functions utilitarian-practical.

The identification of leaders, heroes, and elders in society introduced the first elements of a symbolic function into clothing, which later, developing, turns into social. Today you can judge by clothes social status a person, his level of culture, his profession, tastes, habits, his belonging to any group, region, etc.

First artistic images man drew from the surrounding reality. Gradually developing aesthetic function, which often comes to the fore.

Social and aesthetic functions today they are often generalized and called information-aesthetic or simply information functions.

Costume modern man should be beautiful, modern (a big role is given to modern fabrics, finishes, colors), and most importantly, it should correspond to the image of a person, emphasizing his external and internal beauty, emphasizing his individuality and uniqueness.

1.3. Classification of clothing.

Classification of modern clothing is carried out according to certain criteria:

by gender and age, by season, by purpose, by type of material.

By gender and age clothing is divided into clothing for adults (men's and women's) and children's clothing (for boys and girls). Selected 3 age groups in adults and 5 in children's clothing.

By season clothing is divided into winter, summer, demi-season (autumn-spring) and all-season.

By purpose clothing is divided into 4 classes: household, industrial, sports and uniform.

Household clothing is a set of products intended to be worn in various household and social conditions. It is divided into subclasses: By target orientation: clothes are distinguished between casual, home, business, formal and leisure wear. According to operating conditions: outerwear, underwear, beachwear, corsetry, hosiery, etc.

Sportswear – This is clothing for professional and amateur sports.

Industrial clothing - These are clothes for wearing in various working conditions. In some cases it is used as special protective clothing - at metallurgical, chemical enterprises, etc., and in other cases - as symbolic (clothing for road workers - orange vests).

Uniform intended for military personnel, employees of special departments, students, etc.

By type of materials clothing is divided into clothing made from wool, silk, cotton, linen fabrics, as well as materials containing artificial, synthetic and mixed fibers.

1.4. Properties of clothing.

Physical– include properties that characterize the ability of materials to absorb heat and breathability, thermal, electrical, acoustic properties, the ability of clothing to protect from exposure environment, promptly remove vapors, gases, sweat, etc. from under clothing. and maintain the necessary microclimate.

Mechanical– properties characterize the ability of clothing to acquire and steadily maintain shape and size, its wear resistance, durability, stability and shrinkage deformation after washing, wrinkle resistance, resistance to pilling, abrasion, spreading and shedding of threads.

Chemical– characterize the relationship of materials to various types chemicals, used during washing and dry cleaning (as well as to the action of anthropoxins).

Geometric properties - determine the artistry of clothing, comfort in dynamics and statics, and efficiency in cutting.

1.5. Clothing requirements.

There are: socio-economic;

– consumer;

– industrial.

Requirements for clothing are a kind of information about what properties of clothing and their characteristics are preferred by society, consumers, and production.

Socio-economic– information about the structure of social needs, what products society needs, whether there is an urgent need for them.

Consumer– information about what properties the consumer prefers in clothing.

Industrial – are to ensure that the properties of clothing meet the conditions and organization of industrial production, take into account the raw materials of the enterprise, correspond to existing technologies and available equipment, the skills of workers, ensure labor safety, and economical production.

1.6.Consumer requirements for clothing

When designing a product, it is necessary to take into account a variety of factors: the purpose of the product (what it will be intended for), for whom the product is being created, from what materials. Golden modeling formula: For what? For whom? Of what?

Consumers have various requirements for clothing:

Functional :

● Clothing should be appropriate for the setting.

For example: everyday business suit should be made of materials of calm colors, because... flashy, bright, shiny colors will distract attention and tire others; The decoration of the suit should be laconic, unobtrusive, and discreet. Elegant dress for a prom, on the contrary, it can be made of bright or pastel colors, should not restrict movements in dance, should emphasize the youth and freshness of a young girl, emphasize her individuality, etc.

● Clothing must correspond to the time of year: for winter it is better to use thick, semi-woolen and woolen materials or synthetic ones with good heat-shielding properties, more complex, soothing colors, etc., for summer - it is preferable to use products with flowing, rounded shapes, flared downwards, made of light, sparse materials of watercolor, bright or flashy colors, etc.

● Clothing must correspond to external and psychological age characteristics person.

So for an older woman, a mini skirt would probably be inappropriate.

For a young girl, a coat should not be made from expensive, high-quality coat fabric, but rather lightweight drape or cloth in pastel pure or bright colors should be preferred.

Aesthetic requirements :

● The clothes produced must correspond to the trend of fashion, namely fashionable color scheme, modern figurative solution, assortment.

● The composition of the model must be perfect: it is necessary to match the shape and details, proportions and volume of the entire product and in individual areas, the rhythm in the product must be thought out, color combinations, color scheme, the center of the composition.

● The quality of the product is of great importance for aesthetic perception (evenness of stitches, symmetry of parts, thoroughness of WTO, etc.).

● The product must fit the person, creating a certain image– must match the color of eyes, hair, skin, inner world person (his character, temperament, etc.).

● The product must carefully select accompanying materials and accessories. The lining, zippers, buttons, trim must match in color, quality, appearance and so on.

Ergonomic requirements .

These requirements reflect the interaction of the “man-product-environment” system

● Static and dynamic compliance of the product with the person.

● The product must not have design defects and must not restrict movement, for example, when lifting arms or legs.

● Hygienic compliance.

For example, products for summer should have good hygroscopicity and breathability; for winter - high heat protection, low wind permeability, etc. For linen products, it is better to use materials made from natural or, in extreme cases, artificial fibers.

● All products must have the minimum possible mass (weight).

Operational

● During operation, the product is exposed to various influences - repeated stretching, deformation, abrasion, contamination, breaking loads.

● Therefore great importance has the ability of the product to restore its original properties - the ability to perform repairs, washing, dry cleaning, ironing. It is important what efforts (monetary or physical) you need to make for this.

For example: in a cotton dress. material, you should not design numerous assemblies and folds, because It will be difficult to iron after washing

● In order to improve the shape stability of the edges of parts, various gasket materials are used in products - edges, dublin, non-adhesive gaskets, etc., and you can also use various chemical impregnations to secure and maintain shape (manufacturing “corrugated”, “pleated”, etc. .d.). On the other hand, excessive use of adhesive materials and their excessive rigidity can disrupt the plastic, draping properties of the materials, which reduces the quality of the product.

●Friendly fabrics with low elongation should not be used for leisure wear.

The above requirements may apply to products with different purposes to varying degrees. That is, for elegant clothing, aesthetic requirements are important first of all, for everyday clothing - functional, for home - operational.

At the design stage of a product model, it is important to identify one to three groups of requirements that need to be fulfilled to a greater extent.

For example, if for tracksuit(or for recreation) a synthetic material is proposed, it is necessary to consider the design of the product and the choice of optimal lining materials.



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