What is gypsy life like? Where and how do the richest gypsies live? A wedding is no less important ritual event
“Gypsies in a noisy crowd / Roam around Bessarabia / Today they are over the river / In tattered tents they spend the night...” Thus begins Pushkin’s famous southern poem, which almost 200 years ago glorified the Bessarabian region and sowed great interest in society towards the exotic people described in it. The romantic was different in that it contrasted with the jaded, corrupted by civilization European consciousness the other is a “pure”, natural, natural attitude towards life. Therefore, the heroes of such works were either independent, proud highlanders, or freedom-loving children of the roads, gypsies, or brave, risky pirates-smugglers without a family or tribe. Certainly, fiction he embellished a lot, put a lot of things in a special light. How do Roma people really live? Let's conduct a little research, based on ethnographic materials of the former Bessarabia, and present-day Moldova.
Three capitals
There are 3 recognized centers of the gypsy tribe on the territory of the state. All of them are located in the northern part of Moldova, in the cities of Soroca, Ataki and Edinet. This does not mean that nowhere else in the territory of the former Soviet republic will you meet these dark-skinned, black-haired people with a quick, tenacious gaze and a peculiar guttural speech. The long colorful skirts of Roma women sweep the pavements of Chisinau, Balti, and Ungheni streets. But it is in the north of Moldova that the largest, most numerous communities of this once nomadic people are concentrated. And every diaspora has its own gypsy barons!
Title meaning
Cultural and musically educated people will associate this phrase with the famous operetta Austrian composer Johann Strauss. However, we are interested in a different meaning of the expression. Gypsy barons- these are authoritative representatives of a tribe (camp) or an entire clan.
The Roma people, although considered wild and uncontrollable by Europeans, are in fact not alien to some kind of organization and obedience to their laws, “customs and traditions.” Therefore, ordinary gypsies allowed a fairly respectable, respected person to “stand” over them, who could speak colorfully and brightly, and who knew several of the main languages of the area where the camp usually roamed or where the clan settled. He had to resolve controversial issues between “his own” and the local population, administration and law enforcement agencies. Gypsy barons also regulated intra-camp or intra-community relations.
Play on words
By the way, about the “baronetcy”. The Roma people actually do not have any high titles, especially noble or aristocratic ones. But there is a sonorous word “baro”, which means “important”. And rum baro translates as “important gypsy.” What does this combination remind people whose language is far from the dialect of “romantics with high road"? That's right, the same “baron”. This is how the myth arose that the leaders of the camp were aristocrats from the aborigines. That is, gypsy barons! However, those who have had direct contact with the life of the camp and know its nuances from the inside will say the opposite: power there is concentrated in the hands of not one person, but a group of the most respected people. They lead the society on the basis of fairly strict local gypsy laws. By the way, unwritten!
From fairy tale to reality
Also great amount Rumors, legends, and fairy tales envelop the life of this once nomadic tribe. Yes, long gone are the days when the life of gypsies was spent on wheels, to the cheerful clatter of horse hooves and the creaking of wagons. Most representatives of the nationality began to lead a sedentary lifestyle in the second half of the twentieth century. Many parents even sent their children to school - albeit not for long, for grades 3-4, so that they could learn to read and write. IN Soviet era of a total shortage, gypsies sold jeans and rubber flip-flops, books and cosmetics, cigarettes, “chameleon” wallets and many other various attributes of a “beautiful” life. And also the famous lollipops, toffees, and chewing gum. Naturally, along the way they offered to tell fortunes, “tell the whole truth,” cast a spell, remove damage, and even cure a sudden illness. Horse stealing, theft in Soviet time The poor Roma people rarely made a living. The children, however, begged, but not obviously, in moderation.
The situation has changed dramatically over the past 20-odd years. The gypsies, on the one hand, have clearly “cultivated” and become somewhat civilized. On the other hand, there was a strong social stratification. Crime and marginalization are now quite common phenomena among Roma. But they still adore gold, bright, colorful outfits, dance and sing wonderfully, maintaining their originality. Even a little grimy gypsy has a cool mobile phone, most often “expropriated”. It is mainly women who work in families. The scope of their labor is still the same markets, trade. Men make a living by delivering goods and “getting things done.” Girls are not allowed intimacy before the wedding. And even the custom of showing the sheet after the first wedding night Gypsies honor and perform. Elders in the family are always respected, adultery is punished cruelly, divorces are rare, abortions are prohibited, they love and give birth to many children - these are the basic realities of the life of gypsies.
On the issue of castles
As already mentioned, the social stratification of the nationality is immediately apparent, one has only to walk along those streets of the small village of Edintsy or the larger cities - Ataka and Soroki, where the Roma population is concentrated. Last locality- truly the Moldavian capital of this people. Old houses with peeling window frames, cracks along the facade, crumbling plaster, standing in cluttered, unkempt courtyards, look sad and scream about deep poverty. The picture is completed by half-naked, dirty kids with clearly hungry, but very cunning faces.
It’s a different matter at home for the gypsy barons and simply very rich representatives of the diaspora! In the same Soroki, an entire hill is reserved for their lush buildings! And the dwellings themselves, in their whimsical architectural designs and richness of decoration, can compete with the palaces of show business stars. And another question - who will win the argument!
Architectural fantasies
You can imagine how the gypsy barons live, at least from the external parameters of their houses. There are no one-story ones. Rarely two floors. Usually at three and four. Red tiled roofs, columns and balustrades, arches, pediments, stucco moldings, statues, weather vanes... Turrets, medieval spiers, domes like on cathedrals are also signs of “baronial” palaces. Many are decorated with coats of arms, which the owners claim are ancient. True, for some reason with images of the head of the family himself, who, in fact, tells about the history of the family. The courtyards are tiled and resemble Italian courtyards. They have fountains, gazebos or just benches, comfortably placed under the canopy of trees, among flowering flower beds. and goddesses, quadriga Bolshoi Theater, the spire of the Admiralty, wonderful animals, peacocks - the usual attributes of the palaces in which the clan of the gypsy baron lives. But this splendor often recalls the title of the novel “The Splendor and Poverty of Courtesans.” Most of the buildings are not completed, work goes on year after year, and there is no end in sight.
Interior decoration
Icons, paintings, gilding, marble, natural wood, antique carpets and newfangled wallpaper, cushioned furniture make up the interior surroundings of homes. Eye-catching luxury, sometimes clearly tasteful, but more often colorful and tacky, is the main element in interior decoration. Many rooms, including separate bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, even offices for receiving guests and petitioners. Gypsy barons, photos of which you can see in this article, pass on their title by inheritance, and with them many serious responsibilities and obligations to their fellow tribesmen. Indeed, at present, it is these people who have the full power in the diaspora. It is customary for gypsies to resolve legal disputes, even family disputes, through the baron. That’s why their houses have separate rooms for reception rooms.
Instead of a conclusion
To say that the Roma people are rich is an understatement. As the media indicated, in 2012, according to estimates, Baron Arthur Cerari of Soroca and his clan had an annual income of up to 40 million euros. And this is not the ceiling yet! Particularly impressive, oddly enough, are the funerals. Crypts made of Italian marble, graves where cars, computers, household items, furniture and much more are placed along with the body, which the Roma believe their relatives may need in the next world, once again confirm the truth of the famous song: “Gypsies love rings.” , / And the gold rings...” Yes, they love glitter, noise, movement, everything bright, exotic - just like themselves.
Huge gypsy camp fenced off with a wall. People are afraid to even walk by. It has its own rules and laws. City within a city, state within a state.
This is the dirtiest place in Ukraine. And can it be called Ukraine?
I couldn’t miss such a fascinating place and went to meet the Ukrainian-Hungarian gypsies.
The closer you get to the camp, the more it looks like the Exclusion Zone. People seem to be running away from here. Some houses are abandoned. 
2 It seems they haven’t heard about asphalt roads here yet. And this is a gypsy school. 
3 The Transcarpathian city of Beregovo is completely unique. Not only are the majority of residents here ethnic Hungarians with Hungarian passports, but a special school was opened for the Roma living here near the camp. On the one hand it is Ukrainian comprehensive school, on the other hand, Hungarian and Roma languages are studied here. 
When I looked at the school, there were no lessons; a quarantine had been announced due to the flu. But the director, a sweet woman named Agnes, showed everything.
4 The school is, of course, specific. Even finishes eighth grade in best case scenario a third of those who once came to the first one. The reasons are very different, but most often it is the reluctance of the students themselves or the position of their parents. 
5 Therefore, the classes are very small. 
6 Until recently, graduation photos were not taken here. Gypsy families were categorically against it, especially parents strictly forbade it. But then the tradition took root, and now the event is approached very responsibly. For many, this is the first, or even the only photograph in their life. 
7 And in appearance - classes are like classes. 
8 School canteen. 
9 Children's creativity. There are Ukrainian and Hungarian flags on the castle towers, and there is a church inside. And in the next picture there is a Roma wagon. If you ask a gypsy about nationality, what do you think the answer will be? 
10 If even in art lessons they draw Taras Shevchenko with a characteristic gypsy appearance. 
11 Immediately behind the school begins the Seventh District, which is the name given to the densely populated area of gypsies in Beregovo. 
12 There is still a chance to turn back. Am I scared? No. Firstly, this time there are five of us, a whole delegation has gathered consisting of my friends from Lvov, a blogger from Mukachevo and even a local LiveJournalist pan_baklazhan
. Besides, after a walk in the gypsy area, for some reason I believed that nothing would happen to me. 
13 This white fence does not just separate the camp from the rest of Beregovo. It separates two times, two civilizations, two worlds. 
14 You can see for yourself. The picture is very different from any place in “ordinary” Ukraine (or Russia). This the main street. And here at least you can somehow get through. 
15 While the side ones are passable only in waders. 
16 Unlike the cheerful gypsies of Bulgaria, their Ukrainian-Hungarian relatives were not friendly. As soon as they saw strangers, they immediately turned away, not allowing themselves to be filmed. 
17 Tabor was making noise as if he was being attacked. Women squealed, men hooted, some grabbed their cell phones and started calling somewhere. We walked about a hundred meters from the entrance. It ended with us being very persistently shown the exit. 
What to do in this case? I didn’t want to leave with nothing. The surest way is to enlist the support of the baron. But how to find it? Then the boy turned up. He agreed to take me.
We were taken to the medical unit building, located not far from the entrance to the camp. There were three men in the room, similar in type and manners to the Chechens from the first episode of the film “Brother”: those who protected the market. The Baron spoke, as I understand it. He talked about the hardships of the gypsy lot, and that they go and film, then write all sorts of things, that they give birth to children for organs and eat dogs. We're not Koreans.
I told the gypsy authority that I was in Korea, and they hardly eat dogs there either, and I promised that I wouldn’t write nonsense. After all, this is not the first time for me, I have been in and here and there. I don’t know why, but the baron believed me. And he allowed me to walk around the camp and photograph the gypsies. And he gave his nephew as an assistant, and as a security guard.
18 They returned victoriously to the camp. Now no one could kick him out, the baron allowed it! 
19 And this, it seems, is the baron’s daughter herself. There is no one else here to dress like that and fearlessly cut through puddles. 
20 The inhabitants of the camp look so colorful that you don’t need to go to any India. However, we should not forget where the gypsies came from in Europe. 
21 It is believed that they are all one people, both here and in Bulgaria and in Bessarabia. But Ukrainian gypsies differ from Bulgarians in the same way as Ukrainians themselves differ from Bulgarians. Both in appearance and in character. 
22 Only the lifestyle remains unchanged. 
23 Did you also think that it was a little dirty here? Yes, everything here is so fucked up that I only dreamed of a gas mask. 
24 So you look at the pictures and don’t know what you encounter when traveling. Walking through heaps of garbage is not very pleasant. But it's interesting. So I'm not complaining. 
25 The houses were built from what was found in the trash heap. There are no whole glasses, we insulated them as best we could. And in winter there is snow here and minus ten easily. 
26 Then the slurry will at least freeze, and you can walk on the streets. 
27 It is a myth that Gypsies do not work anywhere. In Beregovo they can usually be found sweeping the streets or taking out garbage. 
28 And children are children everywhere. 
29 Many of them go to the school I showed about. While the little ones are walking. They grow up and understand that “they don’t need it.” Parents are in solidarity. 
30 Just two generations of universal diligent study for ten years, and this area would be unrecognizable. On the other hand, the gypsies would simply cease to exist as a class. 
31 This, for example, is a typical dwelling in a camp. Either one person or the whole family can live here. 
32 From the outside the house looks like this. 
33 Should we feel sorry for them for living like this? 
34 I think they are even happy in their own way. 
35 Being a gypsy is real freedom. In the same sense, by the way, in which the majority of fellow citizens perceive it. Not some far-fetched rules and restrictions, but a dashing, daring freedom to do what you want, not caring about anyone. 
36 Doesn’t this happen in Russia? 
37 Major guy. 
38 Would you allow your children to play with these guys? 
39 There is a store in the camp. At first glance, it seems completely empty. 
40 And then you realize: the store is set up on the other side, urban sides. Gypsies can buy goods from their own special counter, without having to come close. Yes, just in case. 
41 The gypsies stopped traveling. They exchanged tents for houses, but never became settled. India in Europe. 
Perhaps the richest gypsies do not advertise their wealth. However, even if we assume that those representatives of the nation who openly demonstrate the available material wealth are the richest, then it is difficult to call these people poor.
It contains both the extremely poor and middle class, but those who happen to acquire a significant fortune usually do not hesitate to show it to the whole world, sometimes shocking representatives of other cultures with its scope and brilliance.
Briefly about who the gypsies are
The Gypsies are a large European ethnic minority with no territory of their own, consisting of several groups of immigrants from India. They live on the Eurasian continent, in the northern part of Africa, both America and Australia.
Three major Indo-Aryan languages and many of their dialects are spoken. The main languages are Romani, Domari and Lomavren.
In Europe, Gypsies are collectively officially called “Roma”, which is one of many names and self-designations.
In April 71 of the last century, at the world congress, the gypsies officially recognized themselves one nation. Symbols were approved - an anthem based on folk song, and a two-color blue-green flag with a red wheel in the middle. The meaning has a traditional and mystical interpretation. It was then that April 8 began to be considered Gypsy Day.
Love for gold
Gold for gypsies is not just a material benefit, it is love for it precious metal has more deep meaning. The way of life of the people has made such an investment of one's own wealth very convenient - gold items can be carried with you, exchanged, hidden, stored, without worrying that they will depreciate or deteriorate.
The passion for brilliance and ostentatious luxury, bright, catchy outfits has led to the fact that it has become the norm to wear a wide variety of jewelry: massive, noticeable. More voluminous gold items could be hidden under clothes, and up to eight kilograms of them in the form of coins, chains, jewelry, etc. were accumulated in the body bags-belts of gypsies.
The custom of wearing rings, bracelets, chains, earrings and all kinds of pendants, making clothing items out of gold is now manifested not only in holidays, but also in everyday life.
In addition, traditions associated with gold have developed: for example, a son must double what he received from his father.
The richest gypsies in the world
When it comes to the wealthiest gypsies, one can mention kings, barons and representatives of various families, as well as various options their displays of wealth. However, such a concentration of ostentatious luxury of gypsy houses is not found anywhere in the world as in the Romanian town of Buzescu, a town of millionaires with a population of five thousand people.
Gold here is measured in kilograms. It is believed that 55 kilograms of this metal were spent on the interior of the house of the gypsy “king” Florian Cioaba. The annual income of one of the main gypsies is estimated at 50-80 million euros, and the joint income with the clan under his control is 300-400 million euros.
The welfare of local gypsies is based mainly on the trade in metals - ferrous and non-ferrous. Many of them belong to the large group of “kalderash”, associated with blacksmithing and translated as “coppers”. Nowadays we cannot do without the hotel business, legal and smuggling trade.
The settlement has eight hundred houses of varying sizes and degrees of pretentiousness, differing in architectural style. The number of storeys is mainly four and above. The lower ones, especially the two-story ones, are few in number and not new. Often old buildings are completely demolished in order to build new, larger ones.
Mostly in the settlement there are old people and children; adult residents gather only on the occasion of family celebrations. Weddings, christenings, and funerals are not uncommon and are held on a grand scale, so there are plenty of reasons for family members to gather.
The total wealth of the town's richest gypsies is estimated at approximately four billion dollars. All the houses here belong to millionaires. Their cost ranges from 2 to 30 million dollars (in some sources the same figures are indicated in euros).
Buzescu, like all gypsy cities, amazes not only with the competition in wealth and imagination of home decoration, but also with contrast. Here they practice typical crafts, keep livestock, and the toilet is built in a separate room from the main building, since the philosophy of the gypsies dictates that the place of emptying the body be separated from the place where food is prepared and not placed under the same roof.
Moldavian city of Soroca - from the Capitol to St. Peter's Cathedral
Ethnographers cannot come to a conclusion about Gypsy titles. The richest gypsies with greatest influence within a clan are traditionally called barons, kings and even emperors. However, there is no autocracy. Self-proclaimed leaders appear here and there - and each is supported by a certain part of the community.
For example, in the Moldavian city of Soroki, the hereditary baron Arthur Mikhailovich (Russified version of the patronymic, original name sounds like Mirchi) Cherare, waiting to proclaim himself as the king of the CIS gypsies.
He inherited the position from his father, who, along with his brother Valentin, was one of the first Soviet millionaires. Having made a fortune by sewing and selling underwear under the family brand, Mirchi was surrounded by an aura of mystery and various legends, the truth of which is no longer possible to understand. There are rumors about a private jet and a beloved gold-toothed shepherd.
It was during the heyday of Cherare’s business that Gypsy Hill in Soroki began to be built up with elaborate and luxurious houses. Here you can find imitation of the most famous architectural structures from different parts Sveta.
However, much remained unfinished, due to the fact that after the collapse of the USSR, only the first decade was successful for the business of local Roma. And now many buildings are empty most time, as their owners moved around the world in search of successful income.
It is difficult to call the current head of the Roma in Moldova the richest. However, Arthur has big plans - he dreams of the official status of his city as the capital, a university with a faculty of gypsy studies, office space and a throne room, his own periodical printed edition and television.
Gypsy holidays: the richest wedding
A gypsy wedding traditionally symbolizes the merging of families and an increase in common wealth. It is at this holiday that there is both a reason and an opportunity to surprise others. Often gypsies prefer the European version - white fluffy dress, and add a lot of decorations.
However, some parents try to dress up their children so that their fabulous wealth catches the eye. All methods and symbols come into play here - gold Crown, a dress and veil made of the same metal, huge jewelry on the bride (often incredibly young).
It has become a tradition among the richest gypsies to dress up their young wives in a dress made from banknotes. Very large banknotes, for example, with a denomination of 500 euros, are often used for decoration.
The richest Roma in Russia lead a more secular and Europeanized lifestyle. Often these respected families belong to the creative elite of the nation. However, they are usually no strangers to displays of wealth, and the holidays amaze with the abundance of gold and the scale of events.
Gypsy funeral
The richest gypsies live surrounded by ostentatious wealth and luxury, and in the same splendor they go into the next world.
The funerals of very wealthy gypsies are reminiscent of the burials of the pharaohs, but on a smaller scale. Entire crypts are placed underground, imitating real housing - a luxurious bedroom with furniture and necessary household items. Even a car can be buried with the deceased. It is known that together with the Moldovan baron Mircea Cherare, who died in 1998, they buried his Volga.
“Don’t play around, otherwise I’ll give it to the gypsy!” - I have heard more than once how mothers scare their children like this. But who are the gypsies, and why is everyone so afraid of them? Do they really hypnotize people and scam them out of money? Who is the Baron and how does he live? I went to a gypsy camp for answers to these questions.
One day I was driving out of town and noticed strange cardboard houses along the side of the road. Looking at the house on the map, I saw that it was a gypsy village. I was very surprised - I would never have thought that this really happened in Chelyabinsk. Since then, the thought of visiting there has not left me. And now, by chance, we are already on our way.
Both camps are located at the exits from the city, on opposite sides. We choose the one in which, as it turns out, our driver has an acquaintance. On the way, everyone jokes, remembering quotes from the movie " Big jackpot”, waiting for them to try to “sell” us a van and “a dog into a load”...
And here we are. I see in front of me one-story houses made of plywood boards. The houses are gray and dirty, there are only about 25–30 of them. The first we see is a gypsy woman, who is driving geese into a pen. I am in a hurry to get my camera, but I don’t have time.
Our car stops and suddenly, children appear from all the cracks and stick around the car. It becomes uneasy.
A boy in a red T-shirt has just left the Priora and is holding keys and a cell phone.
Gypsies have an unusual skill - they suddenly appear out of nowhere and disappear just as unexpectedly. A man comes up to us and asks why we stopped by. Having explained that we want to photograph everyday life, they give us permission. Interestingly, this is not particularly important, because, as it turned out, each of them gives his own permission without asking the others, and the others may be against it.
I start taking pictures, and there is a crowd of children around me. Everyone shouts “Uncle, take a picture of me!” and climb into the frame. Just some kind of horror begins... Everyone is running after me, touching my hands, trying to take off my glasses. The girl next to her sits in a puddle and starts going to the toilet...
Our driver Seryoga has been here several times and says that it’s better to take a photo of them or pretend they won’t leave you behind anyway. I start photographing the children, and with each frame they do not calm down, but on the contrary, they scream louder and ask to be photographed more of them. At the same time, they all push and get into the frame first.
The village consists of several improvised streets. About 30 families live here.
Soon the son of one of the authoritative men in the camp - Valera (in a blue T-shirt on the left) appears and tells us that there is mourning in the camp and for now it is better for us not to take photographs here, but to come in a week. We understandably hang cameras around our necks.
But at the same time, he himself asks to photograph some of the children who do not calm down... I get completely confused and continue to take pictures.
Adult men are slowly flocking to the street. At first everyone looks very stern and asks about the purpose of our visit and seems to prohibit us from filming, but then they themselves pose and try to get into the frame.
And one gypsy even sat down beautifully and asked to be photographed.
And the most active boy, which came out of Priora
I gradually move towards the car, fearing for my pockets; my partners are also already getting in. I calmed down a little only when I sat in the back seat behind the tinted windows and closed the door with the button. Now children climb into the car, not allowing the door to close, and shout “Uncle, give me a penny!”
With a struggle, we close the car door and drive off. I pray that the car doesn't break down and we leave quickly. Several gypsies are still running after us...
Naturally, we are not satisfied with this result and decide to go to the second camp, which is located at the other end of the city. Arriving at the place, we see exactly the same houses. But if in the first camp we had at least some acquaintance, here we don’t know anyone at all. Therefore, having arrived, we sit in the car for a few more minutes, anticipating what is about to begin...
But here everything begins to develop in a slightly different scenario. The woman notices us first, and within 30 seconds she turns from one to several with children. When the children see the camera, they immediately ask to take a photo of them, but not as brazenly as in the first camp, but in a much more civilized manner. The woman pulls her child away, not wanting him to be in the frame.
But this doesn’t really bother him (or her). Everyone is already laughing, including mom.
In this camp everything happens much calmer. The gypsy women begin to tell us that they want to take away their village, and everyone says the name Davydov. They say that people with cameras have already come to them and filmed something. They communicate calmly and politely, even for a while it becomes interesting and pleasant to talk with them. The difference with the first village is striking.
We are sent to the baron for permission to film, and we begin to look for his house. Along the way, we are watched from everywhere and examined with interest. But the children behave decently, do not scream or run in a crowd.
The baron's house was not found immediately, try to distinguish these houses...
And already near the house we were met by several adult and strong men and began to ask, as they say, “uncomfortable questions.” It's already getting uncomfortable here. Stereotypes about gypsies prevent the brain from adequately perceiving reality.
Having somehow explained to them why we came, we see a car approaching the house. “And here the baron has arrived from the store!”
I immediately imagine that some healthy black-haired man in gold chains and a fur coat will now come out. naked body, but a very pleasant and friendly man named Yura approaches us. At least that's how he introduced himself to us. I'm talking about our filming.
He invites us into the house. I feel terrified, about a dozen men come up from behind and all insistently offer to enter the house and “drink tea.” We finally agree and head inside. The most terrible pictures are spinning in my head.
Having passed the small hallway, we immediately find ourselves in the kitchen. We sit down at the table and men stand along the walls, the baron sits down at the table with us. Everyone else is standing. Looking at all this, a strong association arises with a scene from the movie “Snatch”. One baron talks to us in the same way, but all the other men complement his answers.
A woman is fussing around the stove - the baron's wife. And soon three glasses on saucers appear on the table, each of which contains a plum. My colleagues and I look at each other in bewilderment. But it soon turns out that this is the traditional preparation of tea. An ordinary tea bag is placed in the same mug and boiled water is poured over it.
In the upper left part of the frame, you can see those same gypsies standing along the walls.
We start a conversation with Yuri, and I explain that my goal is to show the gypsies in my report ordinary people. To show that gypsies are people like everyone else, and that humanity is not alien to them. For some reason, the first questions we ask are about the wedding.
Traditional wedding, what is it like?
- We marry children at 12 years old...
At first we think it's a joke, but Yura smiles and begins to explain.
When a boy is already 12, it’s time to get him married. His father talks to the father of some girl and they agree to get married.
No one will ask a boy, let alone a girl. Everything has already been decided for them.
Why do children get married so early? This is necessary in order for the boy to future husband rank, from childhood he got used to being responsible and understood that he had a family that needed to be fed and protected. The wedding lasts three days and is not much different from our traditional wedding.
While this conversation is going on, some food appears on the table. I’m already, completely emboldened and forgetting about “that they’re trying to poison me,” devouring a sandwich. And the men, as if completely relaxed, go about their business, and one sits down at the table with us.
Just on the day of our arrival, a gypsy from Samara was staying in the camp, who had come to visit for several days. He also seemed quite friendly and sociable. A boy walks around the house without pants, chewing something, and next to him is a “doggie.”
I choose a moment and ask the question that worries me most: “Why don’t you live in apartments, but build your own houses” and when I receive the answer, I am shocked.
Women should not be above men. This is wrong and unacceptable.
It turns out that the gypsies terrible crime, if the woman is on the second floor, above the man's head.
“She should know her place and always be lower,” Yura shows us with his hand.
We touch on the topic of hierarchy and it turns out that this also applies to food. Women cannot eat at the same table with men - they eat afterwards. But if a woman is already old and wise, then sometimes she is allowed to sit at the table, expressing respect. Moreover, the lower part of a woman’s body is considered inherently defiled. And the clothes a woman wears below the waist. A man will never touch her.
Traditionally, a woman should have long skirt to the floor. In men traditional clothes- papakha. Having told about this, Yuri runs into the room to look for a hat in the closet. He dresses her for the photo.
- It was left to me from my grandfather. It’s a shame for a man when he doesn’t have such a headdress, especially if you’re a baron,” says Yura. But today traditions are omitted, because we live in modern world, and the hat is worn only on holidays.
The Baron, by the way, is elected by the entire camp. His tasks include monitoring order in the camp, resolving disputes, controlling money, etc. Baron is such a local and 100% respected “president”. It is very important that there is order in the camp. First of all, so that other gypsies from other cities can never say that there is something bad in our camp.
Every evening, the gypsies gather for a “five-minute meeting.” Here the camp discusses how everyone is doing, who has done what, how things are at work, etc. By the way, Chelyabinsk gypsies work with metal. They even call themselves “metal scrappers.” That's why young Roma men don't take pictures - they're afraid.
But are you friends with the Russians? Does it happen that they come to the camp? - I ask and understand what I’m asking stupid question. I myself am sitting, drinking delicious tea and treating myself to some simple food.
- Of course, Russian friends often visit us, and we communicate with the neighboring village.
- Is there marriage between Russians and Gypsies?
- No way! It is unacceptable!
It is very interesting to communicate with Yuri. He tells us about the problems.
The city administration does not want to provide papers confirming land ownership, so we cannot build normal, nice houses. What if they kick us out? Now I am in negotiations with Davydov, and I hope that soon everything will work out for us, and we will be able to legally live on our land.
It turns out that the gypsies who sit on the streets with infants, are just as hated by real gypsies as they are by you and me. They are called "Lyuli". Lyuli is a disgrace to the gypsy family. By the way, they are Orthodox. But there are also Muslims, they are called “Kharohane”. Yura also has a negative attitude towards the gypsies who undress people at the station. “This is just robbery!” says Yuri.
The house becomes stuffy and hot from the tea and we go outside.
There is a cat with kittens in the hallway.
And on the other hand - a dog.
On the street, women boil water. The children here, by the way, are all dirty and grimy. But it even looks funny. But everyone is full and happy.
While we are walking and taking photographs, a taxi arrives at the camp. At first I thought I was hallucinating, and then I saw that it was the gypsies who had arrived home.
One house here generally looks decent, and it even has a satellite dish, which doesn’t really fit in with the general chaos in the village. By the way, this camp also has about 30 houses and 30–40 families.
And other houses look, for example, like this:
We are talking to Yuri and passing us a woman is walking. “Turn around!” she screams. We look at Yura in bewilderment and he smiles and tells us.
The material was prepared within state program Samara region“Strengthening the unity of the Russian nation and the ethnocultural development of the peoples of the Samara region”
Many stereotypes have accumulated around the gypsies: you can still find opinions that people of this nationality live in camps, constantly roam and make their living exclusively in fortune-telling. “Big Village” met with three young gypsies and asked them to tell about their lives: which stereotypes are true and which are not, how true modern gypsies are to traditions, how they earn money and where they have fun.
Kamila Karabanenko
21 years old
I periodically hear that gypsies only beg and tell fortunes, and every time I get very offended. There are many Roma families whose members strive to study and achieve something, but their interlocutors have to constantly remind them of this. It’s unpleasant that at the very beginning of their acquaintance people think badly of you, but usually in the process of communication people change their minds and learn that modern gypsies are not much different from other people.
I work as a teacher at Chapaevsk boarding school No. 1. This is my childhood dream: when I was studying myself, I liked the teachers and the fact that they give children new knowledge every day. My dad, who worked as a driver at a factory all his life, supported my desire. Mom also didn’t mind, although she herself does not have a higher education - she runs a household and raises six children.
I graduated from a pedagogical school, and I think that I was not mistaken in choosing a profession: I really like communicating with children, teaching them the Russian language, mathematics, fine arts and literature. The last subject is especially close to me, as it is always very emotional. I also really like to read. My favorite book is “The Dancing Dwarf” by Haruki Murakami.
I have practically no rest as such - in free time I help my mother around the house. We have quite big family and my parents need my support, both in everyday life and financially. In general, this suits me, but very soon I will start living separately - together with my future husband we will move to Samara. Perhaps this is the first time in my life I’ll go to a party with him: my parents don’t welcome clubs, but he likes to relax like that.
I have known my fiancé since childhood. According to tradition, our parents matched us, but this does not mean that they didn’t ask me anything: mom and dad took my opinion into account and future spouse I like. Usually the head of gypsy families is the man. This suits me, and besides, I don’t think that my future husband will be against my decision to enroll as a correspondence student in the specialty “Public Municipal Administration.” I want to further build my career and grow to become a head teacher or school principal.
Anatoly Glinsky
24 years
Modern gypsies are not the same nomadic people, what happened before: I only knew one family that moved a lot in the 1990s, and the rest, like everyone else, have been living in one place for several decades. My family moved to Chapaevsk in the 1960s of the last century, and since then we have been living and working here.
My parents did not have higher education, but they still earned money themselves, having founded small business for the sale of cars in our city and Samara. Mom and Dad were not against me going to university, but when I turned 18, the family had a difficult financial situation, and I went to work as a DJ in local cafes and restaurants.
In general, the desire to start earning money as early as possible is a common reason why Roma do not want to study at university. In addition, it is customary for us to get married early - from the age of 18: when a family and children appear, you need to think about how to provide for them, so higher education There's simply no time left. But this does not mean that you cannot wait and start a family later. For example, I got married at 20 years old. He was married twice, both times he chose his wife himself. It is customary for us that parents approve of the bride. My mom and dad trust me, so they have never been against my girls.
Despite the fact that I do not have a higher education, I never sit without work: I continue to work as a DJ in the Chapaevsky bar “Strawberry”. I put it there popular music, in the style of “The Ice Is Melting” and Heroina. I am a music lover myself: most of all I love Black songs Star Mafia, I also like the work of Dima Bilan, Michael Jackson and Whitney Houston.
I also sing in the Romano Rat gypsy ensemble. I learned to sing on my own, and for the first time, at the age of 13, I performed Alexander Serov’s song “I Love You to Tears” at my second cousin’s wedding. Everyone liked my performance, and so did I, so I began to sing more often at holidays with relatives, and then at strangers. Now I usually perform gypsy folklore: the top songs are “The Shaggy Bumblebee” and “Hide Behind the High Fence.”
At work I have to communicate with a lot of people, and not everyone treats gypsies well. Of course, I want to convince everyone, but this is not always possible. Just recently there was a post in the Chapaevsk public page about a new playground, where in the comments one of the residents wrote that the gypsies would still come and destroy everything. I was offended to read this, but I did not argue with him - my life proves more than comments on the Internet.
Ramir Karabanenko
21 years old
I am very grateful to my parents: largely thanks to them, I graduated from high school, received a higher education at SamSTU and became the world champion in kickboxing in 2014. But such foundations are not in every Gypsy family: I know many people of our nationality who, as before, study only at school, and then go to earn money by begging. I don’t blame them: for these people, going out on the street asking to donate some money is the same job. Also, some gypsies make money from fortune telling, like one of my sisters. But I definitely don’t see anything wrong with this, because she honestly receives money for her predictions.
It’s terribly unpleasant when in a conversation the interlocutor says something like “All gypsies are thieves and drug dealers.” But I never stop communicating after such words - I still continue to debunk stereotypes and try to win the person over. In the future, I want to get a job at the Ministry of Sports, and with such plans I simply need the ability to communicate.
Sometimes I spend my free time on social networks: there I listen to music, go to public pages with movie selections. There are several favorite public pages, and of those that I don’t like, I can name “Overheard”: they publish a bunch of opinions about everything that are not particularly interesting to me. On a free evening you can go to a party, but I don’t really like them, I prefer to relax at sports competitions. They go to different cities, and I love walking in new places. In Samara, what I also like most is walking, especially along the embankment.
