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Once upon a time, decorating the interior with stucco and bas-reliefs was only available high nobility, rich people and big temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is just a matter of labor and patience. Achievements modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco at home for people who do not have art education, but not deprived artistic taste and fantasies. Create bas-reliefs like those in Fig. Below, it is quite possible for a patient and attentive amateur.

Bas-reliefs of modern work

New materials

Besides traditional material for stucco - gypsum - do-it-yourself stucco can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often combined under common name"acrylic plasters". You can learn how to increase the volume of a bas-relief with construction putty compounds from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Hobbyists also use a basic composition of architectural plaster, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1:1:0.5 by volume. The gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, not the other way around. Bring to a dough consistency like yogurt or low-fat kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The thickness of the mixture is selected according to the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

The bas-relief on the wall is made using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). A high bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, high relief differs from low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). Low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except very dim, and high relief looks better in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In residential areas, which are often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use mixed media bas-relief (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the bas-relief “Klimt Tree”, see for example. Master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief “Klimt’s Tree”



The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all the techniques for creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: in my time Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition “Tree of Life”. Her style is so unique that the expression “Klimt tree” has become popular.

Reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (bottom center in the top figure) is no longer stucco, but stone carving (the contours are cut in depth), which is technically much more complex. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. Is there some more special kind bas-relief - shadow, lower right, where the entire pattern is formed by shadows from small and minute protrusions and depressions a certain shape. When the direction and angle of incidence of light changes, the pattern changes, even changing facial expressions throughout the day. Shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: the protrusions and depressions become clogged and lose their shape when cleaned. The drawing fades, blurs, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

  • Plastering of free ones, i.e. models that were not initially fixed to the supporting surface and cannot be removed;
  • Plastering of non-removable models on the supporting surface. These methods are especially good for beginners, because... allow you to receive the corresponding high and low relief, without risking the need to redo the whole work again in case of failure;
  • Reverse casting from plaster according to the model to be removed. The method is somewhat more labor-intensive, but also suitable for beginners, because... You can pore over the model as much as you like until it is perfect. In addition, in one mold (form, mold) made according to a model, up to 20-30 identical products can be cast at home;
  • Artistic plaster stucco in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. It requires thorough skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels covering the entire wall, with contours around corners, going to the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief using methods 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of prefabricated bas-relief is plasterboard sheet, plasterboard. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts are drawn out on separate sheets or pieces of the desired shape big picture or finished compositions (see figure), and mounted on a leveled wall.

Relief panels

The fastener heads and joints of the fragments are puttied with a base compound, then plastered and rubbed to match the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece damaged due to inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. The bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; It is impossible to attach a prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, PHB partitions, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the load-bearing base must be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require you to acquire some special tools. Not very expensive, but you can’t count on success without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once if you turn it inside out, and the dried remains fly off in the same way. The bas-relief will be stronger and more beautiful the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball eliminates wasted time on shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from a ball, because... There are no corners inside. For the same reason, the batch turns out to be more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making bas-reliefs from gypsum

Next, you will need spatulas for modeling - palette knives. Set of 6 pieces (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For forming bunches of grapes, scales, etc. Convex-concave spatulas are also needed. Sets with these are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so amateurs often use spoons of different sizes instead (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, you can’t just create low relief with spoons; the bend of the handle gets in the way. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons made of aluminum and other ductile metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle at the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, you get a concave spatula.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To obtain concave spatulas, their handles are heated with a lighter near the scoop, twisted and bent while heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use it to clean old paint from the palette, and the sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a fine texture. A palette knife can be perfectly replaced with a wide shoe knife.

The next necessary tool is a pastry syringe with nozzles (items 3 and 4) and, possibly, a 20 ml medical syringe without a needle. It is highly advisable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (item 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are not nearly as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, we’ve all seen how to decorate cakes) by holding it with both hands; Hold the instrument at the tip with your left hand.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes different sizes and the same number of round ones, the cheapest, made of ox-ear bristles. There is no point in buying expensive squirrel and kolin for bas-relief “for the sake of coolness”, they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Working with and caring for the tool

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before adding the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working part are the key to spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and lowered into water in parts; Palette knives and brushes are also placed there. When the instrument becomes acidic, the remaining working materials are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, a properly cared for pastry syringe after working on the bas-relief is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. All instruments must be stored absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technologies

Creating a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on plasterboard sheets, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

  • The base surface is cleaned of old finishing, leveled with an accuracy of no worse than 2 mm/m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for prefabricated bas-relief does not require leveling;
  • The background texture is applied to the base coating: with a foam rubber or fleecy roller, by “slapping” with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is tinted, see below. If the base coating is decorative plaster, texture creation and tinting are not required;
  • In one way or another (from those indicated above and described below), the relief is formed. During the formation of the relief, tinting is possible similar to that for the base;
  • If necessary, the relief is painted over the top when completely dry. It is convenient to do surface painting with special paints for gypsum stucco - they are immediately shaded into very subtle halftones with a damp sponge. More sharp color transitions they will give acrylic paints;
  • The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in construction stores). The colors on dried gypsum stucco fade, like on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
  • After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

From the video above it is clear that the stucco bas-relief needs to be formed in layers. To tint the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, apply thin layers, 1-2 mm each. Typically, layers of thick, low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. The batch for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for plaster; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree they take a brown pigment of ever-decreasing concentration, and for leaves they add green pigment as they move outward. The next layer is applied to the set but still wet previous one. The texture with shades can be applied right there with a brush or then rubbed with zero-grit sandpaper or, coarsely over large areas, with a metal brush. For more information on tinting gypsum stucco, see the following video.

Video: how to cover a bas-relief on a wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using an inverted plate or bowl greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The base solution described above is not used. It is durable, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, tinting is not used due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural plaster is prepared. The model is dipped in it ( artificial flower, napkin) and place it on a board covered with plastic film. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the solution has set, dip it again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer 1-1.5 mm thick.

Drying artificial flowers during the gypsum process

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. In this way, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glue with acrylic plaster of sour cream thickness or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering on site

This is perhaps the most affordable way make, say, a molded lampshade for a chandelier (see figure) without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place and then plastered with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, up to 10-15 or more layers will be required.

Stucco lampshade for chandelier

The main problem here is the material of the model. They are usually made from polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but still, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown irremovable stains begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, models for plastering on site are best sculpted from salt dough, the same dough from which Christmas decorations with your own hands. For plaster, stone and other minerals building materials salty dough glued with acrylic glue or any mounting glue. Stucco molding based on non-removable salt dough models retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting...

This is the most common way to create stucco with your own hands, allowing you to obtain results of a completely professional appearance and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic procedure for reverse casting from plaster is shown step by step on the left in the figure, pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product that it is desirable to repeat/replicate, is placed on a flat board 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the board is covered with film.

Reverse casting from plaster

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is not advisable to use medical Vaseline; the model may stick to the mold. A plaster and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing the lanolin to soak in for an hour or two, until a solid greasy sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 dough thickness, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The set and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with ties 7 made of thin copper wire.

The next step is coating 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 in a layer up to 5 or more cm thick, this is already a casting mold. Here you need to remember to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After a time of gaining 3/4 of the strength with cement-sand mortar (7-20 days, depending on external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, what if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, inner surface The molds are cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The burr is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its internal edge, a chamfer of approx. 0.7 mm. In a mold without a chamfer, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. The mold is filled with the casting mass layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyes with mustaches are inserted into it (upper right in the figure), by which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyes can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the eyes are already firmly seated in the penultimate one, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to test the firmness of the lugs by shaking them!

Currently for runs up to 15-20 pcs. in the old fashioned way they do not cast from plaster; the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). Model prepared as before. case, pour silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, the silicone mold allows you to produce castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Mini gypsum reverse casting

Also, small rounded plaster parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see figure), acorns, mushrooms, etc., even small fish. In this case, a flask tray is sculpted from plasticine, and the model is also sculpted from plasticine. The silicone is poured into the flask all at once; The flask and the model are not coated with anything. Once the silicone has hardened, the mold is simply torn off and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini – reverse casting of plaster.

...and not the other way around

In plaster mini-casting, a removable model is already used; I mean, the model disappears and needs to be made again for the next batch of castings. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting using a lost wax model, then from it it will be possible to obtain up to 100-200 or more castings, but convex ones, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood with a height 2-3 cm greater than the height of the model and a size such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a board covered with film. Then they place the flask and cover the gap at the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as in the previous one. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the mold is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, fill the plywood bottom. The model is melted with a household hairdryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not provide.

Sculpting a bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can purchase them without registering for the evening class art university or courses. Just practice with plasticine; The technique is the same, only when working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, plaster modeling is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat plaster modeling is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules here are like this. First, the material of thick dough or rich sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed, forming a relief at the same time, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the set but still wet previous one. Fourth, as the layers build up, they switch to smaller tools. And fifth, in each layer the work is carried out from the thinnest and small parts to thick and rough. IN in this case- from the leaf teeth to its petiole.

Low plaster casting

It is best to remove branches on bas-reliefs with a pastry syringe or, very thin ones, with a medical syringe. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing harder and weaker on the piston (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the kinks are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with the base solution, and for painting and for snow-white it is plaster, like a non-removable model in place.

Branches on bas-reliefs made of plaster

Strongly twisting branches (item 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of sour cream thickness, laying it on a board covered with film along the contour, and when dry, sticking it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, lay out the cord immediately, it will dry firmly. To obtain branches of decreasing thickness, some of the strands are removed or, conversely, 3-5 branches of twine are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then left alone. If the cord is visible through the plaster, the branch is additionally gypsumed in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for bas-relief made of gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted mixtures. The desired color is obtained by grouting with sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

You've probably seen sharp ribs in pictures with bas-reliefs. They are formed by folding large and index fingers, and the thumbs - with the fingers of both palms bent back. The height and thickness of the rib is changed by smoothly moving/spreading the fingers (palms) in motion as the rib is formed. Fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to the object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the skeleton are. The frame in a round figure works in the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course on the plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy a discipline not of medical, but of artistic education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not inclined to the subtleties and rigors of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded onto the frame as shown in pos. 1 pic. For smaller figures, the frame is simplified (item 2), but respecting the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so complicated: we divide height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (items 4a and 4b). It is advisable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with securing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

  • The basic frame (pos. 5a) is made voluminous approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for modeling, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). Auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together by winding thin copper wire, or even better - by soldering.
  • In a liquid plaster solution, like low-fat kefir, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plaster casting broken limbs (see, for example, the film “The Diamond Arm”), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5th century It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off poorly from the skein, it means that the plaster has begun to harden and the rest of the roll goes to waste.
  • Once the plaster frame has completely dried, it is covered in layers with a base solution (tinting can be used), the shape and texture are adjusted with tools and sandpaper, and it is plastered to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural plaster.

Note: for frames of unfolded wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. It is convenient to use thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is branches of the main branches, covered with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are sculpted separately; the location is too difficult. Therefore, each figure must have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be quite heavy. If per 1 sq. dm. its supporting area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best suited for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least to a depth of 50-60 mm. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten off. The bas-relief mass above the protruding fastening peg should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Superbas-relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. All you need for this is a piece of plasterboard with a layer of fresh base solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. You need to carefully remove the flash from the edges of the nail tip to get a regular 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: using a nail with a slight slope, we prick even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other along the still plastic gypsum board coating. The inclination of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its tip relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetrical.

The next step is to take the sample on a straight line sunlight and, turning this way and that, and in some other way, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how the holes should be pricked to create a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will discover a talent for this rare, but extremely effective art - shadow bas-relief.

Bas-relief is a three-dimensional relief on the surface of a wall - an ornament or design that protrudes above the plane. It helps to create an exclusive interior, because each work is unique and it is impossible to repeat it exactly.

Advantages of bas-relief on the wall

No type of decoration can compare in aesthetics with bas-relief. At first glance it attracts attention, looks unusual and interesting. You can create the drawing yourself. The advantages of bas-relief are:

  • originality and effectiveness of finishing;
  • the ability to disguise wall unevenness;
  • the ability to act as a means of zoning a room.

More more ideas for interior design can be found on the website https://masterinterera.ru/

You can create a bas-relief in the interior with your own hands, and this is another advantage of this type of wall decoration.

I don’t want to put up wallpaper, but painting the walls doesn’t seem enough in an interesting way finishing – complement it with a bas-relief, which can be created from various materials:

  • gypsum;
  • plasters;
  • clay.

The base can be made of wood or metal - they are poured or processed, creating original compositions on the wall.



Types and themes of bas-relief

Not every relief pattern on the wall is called a bas-relief, but only one whose elements protrude from the surface by no more than half. If it’s more, it’s a high relief.

A wooden bas-relief looks original in the interior if you choose it according to the design style of the room and a color that matches the color of the furniture. In this case, it will harmoniously fit into the overall style.

Bas-relief ideas can be varied. Depending on the style, these can be plant and animal motifs, abstract elements look aesthetically pleasing, or antique stories. Size, plot and complexity will depend on:

  • volume of the room;
  • design style.

Often a three-dimensional image is made directly on the wall, but it is possible to install pre-prepared slabs with a ready-made relief. We also recommend looking at the options for decorative panels on this website http://mirstrojka.ru/dekorativnye-paneli/




DIY bas-relief

Many order the decoration of walls with three-dimensional drawings to specialists, however, knowing what to make a bas-relief from, you can do the work yourself.

For putty-based bas-relief you will need:

  • putty;
  • glue;
  • putty knife;
  • cutter;
  • acrylic paints;
  • brushes;
  • stained glass outline.

At the first stage, a sketch of the future three-dimensional painting is transferred to the surface of the wall. It is transferred to paper, covered with film and the outline is transferred to it. An erase-resistant marker or felt-tip pen is suitable for this.

Preparing the base is the second stage. It is necessary to apply acrylic putty, fine-grained gypsum is the basis of the future bas-relief. They need to be leveled and allowed to dry, but not completely. After about 15 minutes you can start working - transfer the drawing to the wall.

Secure the film to the wall with masking tape and trace the design so that the image is imprinted on the wall. Simple ways creating a bas-relief for beginners involves the following steps:

Putty is applied along the contour of the wall - one layer after another. Subsequent layers are applied only after the previous ones have dried.

Then, using palette knives, they cut through the image, drawing out every detail. The largest and most convex elements need to be reinforced with self-tapping screws. This way the image will be durable.





When all the details are drawn, the panel needs to be thoroughly dried and processed. sandpaper. It is necessary to smooth out all roughness, corners, convex and concave elements. Work at this stage requires accuracy and caution.

After finishing, the drawing is primed and painted. It is better to use water-based paint. To prevent the surface around the volumetric pattern from looking unnaturally smooth, apply small layer plaster and treat it with crumpled paper, polyethylene so that the surface becomes rough.

Do-it-yourself gypsum bas-relief has a slightly different manufacturing technology. It is better to use ready-made molds for casting elements from a mixture of gypsum and PVA glue. The mass should be similar to plasticine.

Using ready-made molds, you can cast individual elements of the ornament, dry them and glue them to the wall. Those parts for which there are no molds, or they are too small for casting, can be sculpted by hand.

When the entire drawing is ready, all the cracks are sealed with white sealant. Next, as in the case of putty, the bas-relief is coated with a primer and painted. You can apply paint, wax, add gilding.



Bas-relief in the interior

The bas-relief goes well with many finishing materials:

  • plaster;
  • marble;
  • skin;
  • tree;
  • mirrors.

Numerous photos of bas-relief on the living room wall or ceiling, in arched openings, niches, and in bedrooms of different styles indicate that it looks harmonious both in a classic and in a room stylized as an antique interior.

A bas-relief that is simple in shape and design will give an original look to a modern minimalist interior, while a classic one is appropriate even in a loft style.

The bas-relief will be appropriate in different rooms:

  • in the living room you can recreate the interior using a bas-relief ancient castle, palace or, conversely, complement it with a modern interior;
  • in the bedroom, an original solution would be to place a large panel above the head of the bed or across the entire wall;
  • in the kitchen area volumetric panel appropriate in the dining area or on the kitchen apron. You can decorate an entire wall or a free niche like this;
  • in a spacious bathroom, bas-relief can complement the decoration of the walls with marble.
  • in a large hallway, stucco can be used to decorate part of the wall for a small room volumetric images It's better not to use it.

Small stucco elements can complement a single-color wall, if the others contain paintings, photographs, shelves with souvenirs, and collections. This way it won't seem empty.

A voluminous plant pattern fills the space well without overloading the interior.

The room can be transformed if you complement the design with several stucco elements on the walls or ceiling. Sometimes a bas-relief can become a compositional, organizing center of a room.

When creating a bas-relief, it is important to provide the correct lighting so that the three-dimensional image “plays out” - this way the maximum decorative effect will be achieved.

Photo of the bas-relief on the wall

Let's talk about how you can make a bas-relief with your own hands. This issue worries many property owners, and therefore deserves detailed study. Many people nowadays try to add some zest to the interior they create.

For example, bas-relief in the interior is gradually gaining new fans. It makes it possible to implement interesting ideas for decorating the interior of a living space.

How to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands? Stylists often use this design technique when decorating mansions that have a real fireplace.

Original plaster ornaments can surround the fireplace, as well as decorate window and door openings.

Attention! The highest aerobatics in the interior world is considered to be a decorative design that includes additional lighting. With its help, you can give images the volume of 3D graphics.

How to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands? We offer step by step instructions, compliance with which will allow you to create an original relief on the wall with your own hands.

How to create a three-dimensional drawing with your own hands

Those owners of country houses whose profession is not related to repairs believe that such a decorative element as a bas-relief is a prefabricated structure cast from plaster. In reality, this decorative element is made by hand, so it can be considered an original work of modern art.

Any elements made of gypsum and putty are unique decorative elements; when creating them, a sketch is first drawn up.

Advice! To create on the wall three-dimensional drawing, you need some skills and abilities, compliance with technological features.

Before creating bas-reliefs on the wall, it is first important to choose materials. Currently, alabaster, gypsum, plaster, and clay are used to make bas-reliefs.

Having chosen the material for making the decor, you can proceed to making the base, which will be the basis for the future bas-relief. For work you will need a wooden box with low sides.

Attention! The bottom of the box being created will be plywood.

The dimensions of such a box will correspond to the dimensions of the bas-relief being created. Instead of a box, you can use a box that has a rigid base and walls. The base of the box is carefully covered with a polymer film, making sure that no folds form. Next, you can proceed to the process of preparing the solution, fully observing all the manufacturer’s recommendations.

After the solution is ready, it is carefully poured into the mold.

Attention! When making bas-reliefs with high patterns, wire will be required for the reinforcement process.

The poured mixture remains in the box until it dries completely; the drying time depends on the composition of the solution.

Then you can proceed to the actual production of the future bas-relief. The main condition is to create a certain outline of the intended ornament and then fill it with the mixture. The decor is built up gradually, and the previous layer must dry completely before a new layer can be created.

Advice! You can use film to draw contours on the finished surface. After all the contours have been drawn, the film can be removed.

Interior stylists consider plaster to be a good material for making an original bas-relief. Among the many advantages of this material, we highlight the ease of working with it in a wet state. This material is quite pliable, so you can remove excess plaster and adjust the shape of the created pattern.

Plaster that is not completely dry can be sanded, giving the finished bas-relief a sophisticated look.

As mandatory condition creating a high-quality and beautiful bas-relief, professionals note the complete hardening of each fragment.

In order to create recesses in a wall panel, you can use several methods:

  • cut through the material and remove some parts of the created bas-relief with a chisel;
  • build up the background around a certain point, which will be lower after finishing.

Basically, a flower is used as the basis for images on the created bas-relief: a tulip or a lily. Not everyone will be able to make such a thing on their own. complex drawing Therefore, many owners of country houses try to order bas-relief from professional craftsmen.

In order to simplify the process of creating a lily from plaster or plaster, you can immediately apply it to the wall surface.

In such situations, all other interior elements should be covered with special masking tape to prevent damage. Then the foundation being created The drawing is covered with putty, and after complete drying, a primer is applied.

Advice! Professionals recommend choosing paint for priming - a primer whose properties make it possible to create excellent adhesion to the decorative elements of the created bas-relief. It takes three to four hours for the finished mixture to dry completely.

Using a trowel, Marseilles wax, which is a quick-drying material, is applied to the bas-relief. By attaching a film to the surface of the bas-relief being created, it will be possible to draw small details.

Attention! The film must be secured so that one edge can be folded back if necessary.

You can draw the outlines of the planned design on the film using a colored marker. Next, having peeled back the polymer film, you can draw a lily along the marks made using Marseilles wax. The painting is carried out on the wall, so there is no need to use a special substrate.

Many interior designers choose white wax for work related to the production of bas-reliefs. The main task of the master is to give the created bas-relief optimal realism.

Advice! Acrylic paints are suitable for making the finishing layer of the created composition.

Conclusion

For a person who has not encountered such a decorative element, it is difficult to decide to independently create an unusual bas-relief in his country house or city apartment.

Basically, the bas-reliefs depict trees, flowers, animals, birds, and also create original plot compositions.

Fashion trend last season is the creation of three-dimensional images, which are initially created in a box, then fixed on the wall.

Even when creating the simple option plaster stucco molding, you can count on getting a solemn and elegant interior.

To obtain complex compositions, professionals recommend creating bas-reliefs directly on the wall surface.

Bas-reliefs fit perfectly into the interior of the bedroom and living room space. With its help, you can make your kitchen individual and unique, focusing on its decoration.

Ready-made bas-reliefs are suitable for interiors of different styles, from modern to fusion. To create large paintings, you will need perseverance, accuracy, and desire.

To produce an individual genre painting depicting wild animals, you will need a professional craftsman.

When watching TV shows or videos, many are fascinated by the unusual stucco moldings that decorate the walls of a variety of rooms. Today, man-made bas-reliefs are no longer limited to the category of luxury, and they can be found not only in historical buildings, theaters and luxury mansions. Most owners of apartments and private houses successfully use this decorative element in their own interiors.

Surface preparation - mix the solution and sculpt the background

Every living space needs personality. In this regard, bas-reliefs made by yourself have an indisputable advantage: their sizes and shapes are not limited, the materials for their manufacture are sold in any hardware store for quite a lot. affordable price, and their production itself is a creative and very entertaining process.

First of all, we will select a section of the wall that we will decorate. Pay attention to its illumination, whether it will be natural light from a window or whether artificial lighting will be needed, because it is the play of light and shadow that visually increases the volume and emphasizes the texture of the image.

Now let’s select the sketches and decide on the size of the image. Of course, a hunting scene or a reproduction famous paintings A Michelangelo in your living room would look great, but it's unlikely you'll be able to make it a reality, so it's worth starting with small elements that include floral ornaments, geometric figures, and even simpler some details of abstraction.

For work we will need:

  • Latex gloves;
  • Trowel;
  • Putty knife;
  • Wide flat brush;
  • Palette knife;
  • Cling film.

Before starting work, be sure to prepare the surface: remove the old coating from the wall section, level it, plaster it if necessary, and be sure to cover it with a layer of primer for better adhesion of the materials. The wall is left until completely dry.

Stucco is made from clay, alabaster, gypsum or plaster mixtures based on it. The recipe for preparing a gypsum solution is 1.5 kg of gypsum per 1 liter of water. For plasticity, add a little PVA glue to it and mix everything thoroughly. From the resulting soft “dough” it is easy to form a future bas-relief, and you should start with the main background. These are usually surfaces with some texture. For example, a few random brush strokes on wet plaster or movements of a paint roller will leave original marks.

A good background for a bas-relief would be an imitation of brick or stone masonry, a fine “sandy” pattern left by an ordinary sponge, or a textured surface of deliberately rough plastering. If the bas-relief is planned not in the form of a panel, but as a separate protruding element, then the wall around it must first be covered with masking tape to protect it from contamination.

Let's start sculpting - create a sketch and add volume

When our sculptural “canvas” is ready, we can transfer the main drawing onto it. In this case, you need a thicker solution, namely, for 1 liter of water we now take 2 kg of gypsum. The finished mixture should not spread over your hands and should hold its shape well.

In stucco, the easiest way to start is with plant elements. Planning grapevine, you need to mark the location of the branch, the leaves on it and the large berry cluster. Whether it is an image of a flower, a silhouette of a tree, or part of an architectural column, it is important to maintain the scale of all image elements relative to each other. If you don’t know how to draw, then you can use prepared stencils or make a sketch of the drawing on a transparent film, copying it, for example, from the monitor screen. To draw a tree, you just need to illuminate a suitable branch with a flashlight and trace the resulting shadow on the wall.

Next, we move on to the most difficult and important stage - adding volume to the drawn sketch. The mixture, which is intended for stucco, must be very plastic and not harden quickly, since it should be applied in several stages, allowing each layer to dry. Considering this, it is better to prepare small portions of the solution and use them immediately.

If it is assumed that the bas-reliefs made of gypsum and putty will be voluminous, then it is recommended that their most protruding parts be additionally reinforced by screwing self-tapping screws into the wall or securing a regular plaster bandage to it with a stapler. Individual three-dimensional figures can be created using cardboard and foam blanks, which are attached to the wall and coated with the mixture.

You can add texture to plant elements using their natural analogues with a clear pattern of veins - tightly attach a leaf of grape, maple, or even a houseplant you like to the mixture, remove the excess putty around with a spatula or a regular knife, forming a clear edge. Leave the element to dry for several hours and remove the remaining leaves.

For such “prints” or as a decorative element of the bas-relief, you can use other available items: burlap, shells, decorative stones, etc.

Convex parts can also be cast from plaster using a prepared plasticine mold and liquid gypsum solution. Elements such as berries, protruding flower petals or a tree branch are best sculpted by hand from alabaster (the solution is prepared following the instructions on the package), and then attached to the wall, firmly pressing and coating on all sides.

"Free" gypsum - a simple method of obtaining decorative elements

A simple and affordable way to obtain three-dimensional parts is “free” plaster. It is usually used to create compositions of ornate patterns created from paper napkins soaked in plaster, as well as to form floral and plant bas-reliefs. This method is accessible even to beginners, you just need to choose the right materials and combine them harmoniously.

For “free” gypsum, architectural gypsum, from which a liquid solution is prepared, is best suited. To stir, you can use a construction or regular kitchen mixer or do it by hand. So, for 1 kg of gypsum take 0.7 liters of water. To prevent lumps from forming, it is the dry material that is added to the water, and not vice versa, and it is better gradually, in small portions, mixing thoroughly each time. To make the solution more plastic and to prevent the finished bas-reliefs from cracking, it is recommended to add a little PVA glue diluted with water. IN final version the solution should be homogeneous and the consistency should be close to liquid sour cream.

Plant branches, buds, elastic inflorescences of real or artificial flowers are dipped into this composition, and paper napkins are also impregnated with it. The resulting workpiece is placed on a flat surface covered with plastic film and left to dry. Flowers and paper elements must be arranged in the way they will be fixed in the interior. This will allow each part to form a flat base, which will then be mounted on the wall. After complete drying (at least 24 hours later), the workpieces are again dipped into the gypsum mixture and again placed in the same position to dry. This procedure is repeated until a 1.5 mm thick layer of gypsum is formed on the elements.

The finished parts are attached to the wall using thick acrylic plaster or PVA glue. To finally fix the finished composition and give it a monolithic look, the entire relief is coated with a thick gypsum mortar using a brush, Special attention paying attention to the junctions of attached elements. Today you can learn the basics of sculptural craft by simply sitting in front of a monitor screen. It’s easy to find a suitable master class online, successfully master the first lessons, and eventually take up paintings.

The best material for such modeling is considered to be a gypsum mixture based on PVA glue. The mass should be elastic and thick, like soft plasticine. Now you can remember your kindergarten experience and try to make a cherry, a flower, or even a bee. There is no need to be upset if your piece of art does not work out. You can use ready-made molds - buy them at a craft store, or take a silicone baking mold or regular figurines from a children's sandbox. In this case, a gypsum mixture as thick as sour cream is poured into the prepared mold and left until it hardens. The resulting molding is removed and glued to the wall in certain place compositions.

Finishing – clean, paint, protect from moisture

At the end of the work, all roughness on the resulting panel should be smoothed out. The best way to do this is to use a small piece of fine-grit sandpaper. Act carefully without unnecessary pressure so as not to destroy the necessary textured elements. Sometimes after such processing other imperfections appear - small cracks, unevenness or small dimples left by air bubbles. Now is the time to finally grease and fill everything.

The finished bas-relief on the wall is thoroughly cleaned of gypsum dust and crumbs and must be treated with a primer. Now you can start decorative finishing Images. Most often, acrylic paints and tint colors are used for this. Paint the bas-relief in different colors, use discreet two-color halftones or settle on pristine white color - it’s up to you, it all depends on the stylistic execution of the panel and, of course, on your desire.

Finally, a protective coating such as a water repellent, acrylic wax or varnish is applied to the stucco molding. Such protection is especially important for bas-reliefs in rooms with high humidity, for example, in kitchens, bathrooms, and unheated corridors.

A bas-relief is a conventionally three-dimensional design that decorates the internal and sometimes external walls of a house or apartment. Unlike frescoes and sculptures, bas-relief is made directly on the wall, thanks to which it fits much more organically into the interior or exterior of the house. In this article we will tell you what tools, knowledge and skills are needed to create a bas-relief, and also give detailed instructions on how to create such a decoration, which will allow you to decorate your home with various paintings yourself.

What skills are needed to create a bas-relief

To create a bas-relief you will need the following skills:

  • paint;
  • create three-dimensional images;
  • work with alabaster and gypsum solutions;
  • create stencils and work with them;
  • work with wire and create structures from it.

Any bas-relief is a partially three-dimensional picture, which should create a feeling of a three-dimensional picture. If these are leaves and flowers, then they should not be two-dimensional, but create the illusion of volume. If this is a more complex image, then it should create the illusion of full volume. Therefore, without the ability to create three-dimensional images and draw beautifully, it is better not to even try to make bas-reliefs, because later you will have to eliminate the consequences of your creativity. No less important is the ability to work with gypsum and alabaster solutions, because it is necessary to clearly know the lifetime of the solution, the optimal density parameters for various works, the ability to mix with dyes.

After all, to create a bas-relief, you need solutions that, although slightly, differ in thickness. The ability to create stencils is very important, because without them it is very difficult to outline the contours future painting, especially if you do not have great artistic talents and high qualifications as a plasterer-painter. To create three-dimensional images with a thickness of more than 10 mm, and if the thickness and viscosity of a solution of 5 mm is incorrectly selected, it is necessary to create a frame that will prevent cracking of plaster or alabaster.

Tools

To work you will need:

  • paint brushes various forms and sizes, including maklovitsa;
  • palette knives; sculptural stacks of different sizes;
  • trowel;
  • measuring spoons;
  • container for mixing putty;
  • hammer drill with a set of drills for wood and concrete;
  • flathead and Phillips screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • clean rags;
  • powerful light source;
  • strong trestles or scaffolding;
  • overalls, respirator and safety glasses.

Preparing the wall

Wall preparation includes two stages:

  1. Alignment;
  2. Primer.

During leveling, you plaster the wall with sand-cement mortar, then level it with gypsum or alabaster putties to give it the necessary evenness. If you want to make a bas-relief on a wooden wall, you will first have to secure the reinforcing mesh, then plaster it. Be sure to use beacons (guides that help make the surface level). For primer, use acrylic, alabaster or gypsum compositions with a high sand content - this will create the necessary surface roughness and improve the adhesion of solutions to create a bas-relief. Use only those primers that say they are suitable for alabaster and clay compounds. It is very convenient to apply the primer with a paintbrush due to its large width. When priming the wall surface, do not leave drips, because after drying they will be difficult to remove, and left drips will negatively affect the appearance of the bas-relief.

There are no clear recommendations for creating bas-reliefs, because each master uses the combination of actions that is most convenient for him. Some create a bas-relief directly on the wall, others first cast its elements in plaster or alabaster, then fit them into the overall design of the painting. Some create a pseudo-volumetric image with a thin layer of solution, others create a completely three-dimensional paintings 30 or more centimeters thick. It all depends on the qualifications, artistic taste and talent of the master. However, we will give one recommendation - in order to improve your skills and not spoil the wall, create a bas-relief on a piece of plywood, chipboard or OSB, which after completion of the work can be hung on the wall. If something goes wrong and you ruin the bas-relief, then take a new piece of plywood and practice on it.

Below we will describe several techniques that will help you create beautiful bas-reliefs:

  • working with stencils;
  • the use of sculpted stacks, cutters and loops;
  • mold casting;
  • fastening the wire frame to the wall;
  • working with film.

Working with stencils

For the stencil, you can either draw it yourself or download it from the Internet and print it on paper. After this, you need to decide on the stencil material and its thickness, as well as the manufacturing method, so we recommend using ready-made stencils that can be purchased at stores selling decorative goods. A stencil is necessary to create the contours of the future painting, after which you can use stacks to give these contours the desired volume. Working with a stencil is not difficult - place it on the wall and fix it in any way, then fill it with thick gypsum or alabaster mortar. Remember, the thicker the stencil, the thicker the solution should be. If you use too thin a solution, then after removing the stencil the contours of the bas-relief will be blurred, so it is advisable to practice on the board first so that you do not have to prepare the wall again.

Using sculpt stacks, cutters and loops

You can purchase these tools from the appropriate stores. If you have good spatial awareness and artistic skills, you can use these tools effectively even without being a professional sculptor. After all, with their help, excess solution is removed, giving a certain area a bas-relief the required form. Using these tools, you can create any three-dimensional images, it all depends on your imagination, artistic taste and spatial imagination. These tools will not be superfluous when creating volumetric bas-reliefs, because with their help you can trim the edges, giving each layer of mortar the necessary shapes.

Mold casting

The use of pre-cast molds greatly simplifies the creation of three-dimensional compositions. For example, leaves are cast in molds, which are then attached to the wall to create the trunk and branches of a tree. The result is that the trunk and branches are part of the wall, and the leaves are separate, which improves the visual perception of the bas-relief and the effect it produces. Stores sell silicone and polyurethane molds of all sizes and designs. To create a bas-relief, it is necessary not only to cast molds from plaster or alabaster, but also to make a reinforcing frame inside them - this will prevent cracking of the resulting part and make it easier to attach to the wall, because not only glue or putty, but also wire will hold the part.

Some forms need to be lubricated with castor oil (this should be written in the instructions for the form), other forms do not need such an operation. To pour into molds, you need to use a much thinner solution than to work directly on the wall. In most cases, the solution is made similar in thickness to liquid sour cream, which allows for high-quality filling of the mold and ensures good strength of the part. The metal frame can be inserted into the mold either before or after pouring plaster or alabaster, both methods provide the same strength, so it all depends on personal preference.

Attaching the wire frame to the wall

The wire frame allows not only to attach heavy hanging decoration elements, but also to prevent cracking of plaster and alabaster if the layer is too thick (over 7–10 mm), making it possible to create figures of great thickness. The thickness of the wire depends on the place of its application and purpose - for attaching external decorative elements, steel wire with a thickness of 2–3 mm is used. It has high strength and rigidity, thanks to which it effectively holds the external structure until the gypsum or alabaster coating dries. To reinforce parts of large thickness, you can use steel wire 0.7–2 mm thick, which has less rigidity and weight, so it is easier to work with. To attach the wire to the wall, it is convenient to use dowel-nails, for which a hole is drilled under the dowel using a hammer drill, then 1 turn of wire is wound onto a plastic clip and the dowel-nail is driven in until it stops. If you are attaching the wire to a wooden wall, then the technology is different - 1 turn of wire is wound on a self-tapping screw with wood carving, after which it is screwed into the wall until it stops. If necessary (if you have to use a self-tapping screw of great length/thickness or the walls are made of hard wood), a hole with a diameter 2 times smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw is drilled in the wall, which makes it easier to screw it in, but does not weaken the fixation in the wall.

Working with film

The film is used to create pseudo-volumetric compositions on a layer of asbestos or alabaster plaster of small thickness. First, a drawing on a scale of 1:1 is applied to the film with a marker, then a layer of plaster 3–6 mm thick is applied to the selected section of the wall and the film is placed on top, orienting the drawing in space. After this, trace the contours of the design with a pen and remove the film, and the design remains on the layer of plaster. Now you can use stacks to remove excess, creating the selected pattern and giving it volume.

When gypsum and alabaster come into contact with the skin, they dry it out unnecessarily, so it is advisable to work in rubber gloves. In addition, be sure to use safety glasses to protect you from getting plaster or putty in your eyes. When dosing the solution, pouring it into a mixing container and stirring, wear a respirator - it is not very convenient to work in it, but if you spill the solution or otherwise raise dust, it will protect your bronchi and lungs from damage.

To create a beautiful bas-relief, you need to properly organize the workflow. A powerful light source will help detect the slightest imperfections, so you can easily correct them before the mixture hardens.

If the defect is discovered after the mixture has hardened, then it will be much more difficult to eliminate it, because the hardened plaster or alabaster will have to be processed not with stacks, loops or hooks, but with sandpaper. You must learn to “by eye” determine the amount of solution that you can process before it hardens, otherwise you will constantly throw out the frozen excess. The lifetime of the solution depends on its composition and is indicated on the packaging; the optimal ratio of the dry mixture and water is also indicated there, so correctly determine the amount of solution required for a particular operation, and also adjust its thickness by changing the amount of water. A clear understanding of the required amount and thickness of the solution comes only with experience, so first practice on pieces of plywood or chipboard and don’t worry if something doesn’t work out, over time you will learn.



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