Essay examples in literature. Imagery values ​​reflected in portrait essays in Russian and Latvian media

Every woman dreams of having long, strong nails with an artful design on her fingers? However, the reality is that only every fifth woman can boast of naturally strong nails. The rest are content with “short” ones, and even this minimalist size, given the rhythm of life modern woman, it is extremely difficult to preserve. Those same fashionistas who have in their “combat arsenal” long and strong nails, like stilettos, cannot always boast of their ideal shape.

Photo from the site: womansecrets.club

Fortunately, the nail industry does not stand still. For decades now, manicurists have been using the procedure of gel nail extensions on forms, which allows you to create nails of any length and shape, no different from real ones, except... they are stronger. The technique and sequence of gel nail extensions on forms, as well as the essence of the procedure itself - all this is under the spotlight of the “Ideal Manicure”.

Technique for gel nail extensions on forms

First, let's figure out what forms for nail extensions are. As you know, there are two options for nail extensions:

  • On forms
  • On tips

Tips are ready-made plastic blanks for future nail tips. They are fixed with an adhesive base and modeled using gel.

Photo from the site: nailart-sho.ru

Forms for creating nails are a kind of substrate with a small window for the nail plate. During the work, a modeling gel is applied to the substrate and natural keratin, which after polymerization will represent an artificial free edge of the nail. For the convenience of forming this very free edge, the forms have a drawing in the form of graph paper, which allows you to calculate the approximate width and length of the nail being formed. The very basis - the form - is removed after the procedure is completed. Therefore, nails created on the basis of forms look thinner than nails formed on tips.

Photo from the site: onlinepeek.ru

There are two types of forms:

  • Disposable, they are also called soft. They are made from paper or flexible plastic and are used only once. Due to the fact that they have a pliable structure, they can be easily adjusted to any contour of the natural nail. However, they can wrinkle during the extension process and require precise “fitting”.

Photo from the site: allfornails.ru

  • Reusable molds are made of hard plastic or metal. Their price is much higher than that of disposable forms, but due to repeated use they will quickly recoup their cost. In addition, in the process of working with them, such troubles as deformation, the formation of gaps and the flow of gel through them are excluded. The main thing is to choose forms that perfectly match the shape of the natural nail bed, and then you will never have problems with the formation of an artificial nail.

Photo from website: nazya.com

It is believed that extensions on forms require more filigree work and experience from the master, while tips are easier to use. However, nails formed on forms look more natural, and this determines their popularity. Fortunately, the Internet is replete with all sorts of video tutorials on how to extend gel nails onto forms, which show the entire procedure with extreme accuracy. With a little practice and diligence, even this procedure can be done at home.

What is needed for nail extensions on forms?

To apply nail extensions to forms, you should stock up on a special kit, which should include the following tools and components:

Photo from the site: stood.ru

  • Antiseptic.
  • Express cuticle remover. You can get by with a regular bath to soften the cuticle.
  • Pusher or orange stick for pushing back cuticles and pterygium.
  • Manicure scissors and tweezers for cutting cuticles and side ridges.
  • Files and buffs of varying degrees of abrasiveness for creating, designing and polishing nail plates, both natural and artificial.
  • Brush for removing nail dust.

You can't go anywhere without antiseptic! Never miss this one important point. Nails, hands and tools not treated with an antiseptic are a risk of fungal infection. Medical alcohol, chlorhexidine solution, or special disinfectant sprays for manicure are suitable as an antiseptic.

  • Dehydrator for degreasing natural keratin and removing the sticky layer from gel polish.
  • Primer for adhesion of natural nails to artificial material.
  • Base and top gel coatings.
  • Modeling gel for creating artificial nails.
  • Brushes for applying gel.
  • Colored or camouflage gel polish for creating a design, decorative elements, if this item is provided.
  • Lint-free wipes for removing the sticky layer and degreasing the nail plate.
  • UF lamp (gel for nail modeling polymerizes only under the influence of UF radiation, the LED lamp is not suitable for extensions. But the LED lamp can be used when designing nails with gel polishes).
  • Forms for nail extensions.

Stages of gel nail extension on forms

In order to better understand the technology of the process, let’s consider the procedure for gel nail extensions on forms step by step:

Stage 1. Treating fingers and nails with an antiseptic.

Photo from website: gribokgplus.r

Stage 2. Hygienic manicure. Cuticle trimming and pterygium removal.

Photo from the site: krasotkapro.ru

Stage 3. Filing the free edge of the nail plate. Removing gloss from the surface of the nail using a buff.

Photo from the site: yanail.ru

It is necessary to leave a free edge of the nail of 0.5 mm in order to pry it under and fix the shape.

Stage 4. Removing nail dust with a brush.

Photo from the site: yanail.ru

Stage 5. Applying a dehydrator to degrease the nail plate.

Photo from the site: yanail.ru

Stage 6. Applying an adhesive base (primer).

Photo from the site: yanail.ru

Stage 7. Coating the natural plate with base gel (the layer should be very thin). Dry your nails in a UF lamp for at least 2 - 3 minutes (depending on the power of the lamp.)

Photo from the site: yanail.ru

Stage 8. Installing the mold using a metal plate and tubes to press the “arch”.

Photo from the site: bpwomen.ru

This is one of the most difficult stages, requiring a certain skill. After all, the entire result depends on how correctly the nail extension uniform is worn.

How to use forms for nail extensions? If the forms have a solid base, then there should be no problems, the main thing is to choose the right size and carefully fit it to the nail. If the shape is soft, then first, using nail scissors, you should adjust the window to the size of the subungual arch. It is important that there are no gaps, otherwise the gel will leak into the holes formed and as it grows, this defect will be noticeable.

After fixing the form, you should make sure that it has beautiful side and end bends. A shape without a bend will look like a trampoline, and a slope that is too steep will create beak-shaped nails.

remember, that step-by-step instruction nail extensions on forms require that the work be carried out according to the scheme - 4 nails of one hand, then 4 nails of the other hand and nails thumbs both hands. This is necessary so that during work the gel does not flow from the nails of the thumbs, which, as a rule, are always at an angle in relation to the other fingers. Beginners should even work on each finger separately.

On a note!

How to extend nails on forms if they are very soft? It's very simple - glue two forms together. This way they will be stronger and more stable.

Stage 9. Formation of an artificial nail using modeling gel.

Photo from website: delodom.com

At this stage, you should strictly adhere to the rules of how to extend nails with gel onto forms. The nail is conventionally divided into 3 zones:

  • Cuticle area (1/3 of the natural nail closer to its base).
  • Stress zone (the remaining 2/3 of the natural nail plate is the junction of the nail with the form and 1/3 of the form. This area bears the greatest load and hence its name).
  • The free edge of the nail, or more precisely the remaining part of the form.

The technology for gel nail extensions on forms at the modeling stage is as follows. A thin layer of gel is applied to the cuticle area with a brush, which thickens slightly as it approaches the stress area. The stress area should be “reinforced” with a small gel thickening, especially at the junction of the natural nail and the form - here the modeling gel is applied very thickly. The future free edge of the nail is formed in a thin layer.

After applying the modeling gel, the nails are dried in a UF lamp for at least 2 - 3 minutes.

Stage 10. Removing the sticky layer from the artificial nail and removing the form. The resulting nail should be sanded to give it a smooth surface. At the same stage, the shape of the free edge of the nail is adjusted.

Photo from the site: studio-helena.ru

On a note!

Don’t be surprised by the removal of the sticky layer from the nail, while the color coating has not yet been applied. If with a regular gel manicure this is contraindicated, since the dispersion is removed, which ensures the adhesion of the layers, then when extending nails on forms, as a rule, the dispersion is removed in order to decorate the artificial plate with a nail file. It’s just that the dispersion will interfere with adjustments due to sticking to the nail file. There is no need to worry about the adhesion of subsequent layers to the artificial nail. A well sanded surface will provide the necessary adhesion.

Stage 11. Applying camouflage gel or colored gel polish. Camouflage or colored gel is applied in 2 – 3 layers depending on the density of the pigment. Each layer is dried in a UF lamp.

Photo from the site: dekornogtei.ru

Stage 12. Design and decoration of nails, if required by the design. If it is not provided, then this step is skipped.

Stage 13. Apply topcoat and dry in a UF lamp. It is better to dry the top coat in a lamp twice as long as the previous layers for better polymerization.

Photo from the site: mirlady.com

Stage 14. Removing the sticky layer.

Stage 15. Moisturizing the cuticle with oil or cream, massage the hands, cuticles and periungual ridges.

Photo from the site: chelnyblog.ru

These are step-by-step instructions for gel nail extensions on forms. You may come across slightly different variations with more or fewer steps (everything will depend on the details of the process), but in any case the basis will be the same.

Gel nail extensions on forms: video instructions

No matter how detailed the instructions are, the best way to highlight the essence of the process will be a video on how to extend nails onto forms. Naturally, each master uses his own technology and his own secrets, we bring to your attention two video tutorials on how to extend nails onto forms with gel, which, in our opinion, shows in the most accessible form a process that is understandable even for a beginner.
Lesson #1.

Lesson #2.

As you can see, each master uses his own skills and tricks in gel nail extensions on forms. Step-by-step technology somewhat different, but only in a number of aspects. The main basic “steps” - preparing the nail, setting the form, applying modeling gel - are unshakable. Perhaps in the future, as you gain experience and skill, you will find your own perfect solution, more efficient and convenient. In any case, try, learn and you will succeed.

Not everyone can boast of strong nails that grow well and do not flake or break off. Wherein stylish manicure with a unique design needs a reliable base, so many turn to a specialist to get artificial nails extended. There are several ways to extend nail plates and different types materials used for this purpose.

What are nail extension materials?

Regardless of the base used to create an artificial nail (finished plate, template), there are only two types of materials for extensions - gel and acrylic. These substances are applied to natural or artificial nail plates in the form of jelly or paste - they have a viscous, viscous consistency. They harden during application or under the influence of ultraviolet light. Each material has several varieties, advantages and disadvantages.

What you need for gel nail extensions

Artificial nails for a long time do not lose their presentable appearance - gel ones are worn on average for 3 weeks without adjustment. Gel nail extensions require the use of additional materials and special devices. U good master there is all the necessary arsenal of extension products - in the salon you can choose the type of gel, manicure shape, color and texture of the coating.

Materials

It is not enough to buy gel for nail plate extensions. In addition to it, many additional products are used, without which it is impossible to create a beautiful and durable manicure. Any nail extension materials store offers customers products gel manicure:

  • Gel. This substance has an elastic, jelly-like consistency and can be clear, white or pink. Single-phase, two-phase, three-phase gels are used - they may contain components that strengthen nails, protect against fungus, etc.
  • Tips. This is the name for artificial nail plates that are attached with glue. Tips are made of transparent plastic, they are very thin and strong. The overlays have all sorts of shapes and lengths, which the master and the client select individually.
  • Primer. This product, the so-called “cosmetics for nail extensions”, is used in the process of preparing the nail plates for the purpose of effective bonding with the overlay. There are acidic and acid-free primers, the second is considered safe and more effective.
  • Degreaser. Before using the primer, the nails are prepared - degreased using a special alcohol-based composition.
  • Forms. There are disposable and reusable templates designed to hold the shaping gel. After the gel base has hardened, the mold is removed from under it. Disposable templates are made of paper, foil, and polymer. Reusable ones come in plastic or metal. Any type of template implies the possibility of modeling, giving the desired shape to the future manicure.
  • Napkins. A consumable material that can be used to wipe the plate after using a primer or degreaser is manicure wipes, which are made from lint-free raw materials.
  • Finish gel. This product fixes all layers of varnish and gives the finished coating shine.
  • Cuticle oil. After extensions, it is important to use oil, which will make the cuticle soft and prevent it from drying out.

Nail extension tools

During the procedure, the master uses special tools that help perform the job accurately. Devices used in the extension process:

  • Files. You can give your natural or artificial nails the desired shape with a nail file. It is advisable to have several of these tools with varying degrees of abrasiveness - to model the shape, create a smooth and shiny texture.
  • UV lamp. This device is essential attribute nail salon, it helps to harden the gel base and dry the coating. UV lamps have different powers - up to 36 W are used at home, and more powerful ones are used in nail salons.
  • Buff. A convenient and multifunctional bar in the hands of a master - buff - grinds and polishes artificial and natural nail plates. Each of the four sides of the foam base has a different finish - for filing, sanding or polishing.
  • Wire cutters. A tool used to model the shape of artificial plates. With the help of nippers you can easily remove excess from tips or hardened gel.
  • Cuticle pusher. A double-sided tool, at one end of which there is a spatula that pushes back the cuticle, at the other there is a hatchet that separates dead tissue.
  • Orange sticks. Universal manicure tool– use an orange wood stick to push back the cuticle, stick on rhinestones, apply a pattern and remove any remaining gel.
  • Brushes. The gel is applied to the form or tip using a synthetic brush that has flat bristles. Using brushes of different thicknesses, model the base and apply a design.
  • Boat. This is what nippers for cutting tips are called. Using a cutter, you can remove an excess piece of overlay in one movement without damaging the entire work.
  • Brush. During the sawing process, a lot of dust is generated, which can ruin subsequent work. You can remove excess with a miniature brush.

What you need for acrylic extensions

The next method of nail extension is acrylic mass. This material requires high professionalism from the master, since it hardens within a couple of minutes. During this time it is necessary to create the required form, which is difficult to correct later. A manicure made using this technology is durable and elastic - its base does not crack with strong bends and does not lose appearance within 3-4 weeks without adjustment.

Tools

When working on acrylic manicure, special tools are used. Many of them are also used when working with gel materials, but in the case of acrylic their functionality may be different. Accessories and products for acrylic nail extensions:

  • Orange stick. It is used to move the cuticle away from the nail plate; a pusher spatula is used for the same purpose. The latter is equipped with a hatchet at the other end, which is used to cut off excess skin.
  • Tips and glue for them. Artificial nail plates - tips - can have different shapes and sizes, and you can choose the right ones for any type of nails. Tips must be fixed and repaired (cracks removed) using cyanoacrylate-based glue.
  • Forms or patterns. To apply acrylic mass to nails, they are lengthened using forms made of paper, plastic or metal. After the base has hardened, the molds are removed - some of them are thrown away after use, reusable ones are used again after disinfection.
  • Type cutter or boat. This device is used to trim the tips before they are coated.
  • The brush for applying acrylic is made from natural materials– sable, mink or marten fur. To prevent acrylic particles from sticking to the hairs, the products are impregnated with a special composition. The shape of the brushes is different, most often flat or round.
  • Files and buff. Devices that give shape to natural or artificial nails.
  • Nail scissors. A tool with sharp thin blades is used to trim the cuticle; with a tool with wide blades, nails are cut. There are also universal nail scissors.
  • A brush for removing dust is a mandatory attribute of a nail salon.

List of materials for acrylic nail extensions

Acrylic nails are made using special materials. Many of them are similar to those used when working with gel:

  • Acrylic mass. The base of the artificial plate is made from a mixture of acrylic powder and a low-molecular substance - monomer (liquid). After mixing the selected components, the master applies them to the prepared templates, and after a while the acrylic hardens.
  • Dehydrator and primer. These compositions are used in extensions of any type of nails. A dehydrator serves to prepare the nail plate for extensions - it degreases the surface and removes any contamination. The primer is applied after the degreaser - the liquid enhances adhesion artificial material with a nail.
  • Liquid for rinsing brushes from acrylic powder is a necessary element of the nail extension procedure. The master periodically rinses the brush in the solution, which helps maintain the elasticity of the bristles while working.
  • Finishing gel – to fix the color coating and give it a uniform glossy shine.
  • Cuticle oil is necessary to ensure that the thin skin around the nail plate does not dry out.

How to choose the right UV lamp

Gel-based nail extension equipment includes an ultraviolet lamp. This device is also used to secure certain types of coatings. The performance of the master and the quality of the finished manicure depend on the power and type of UV lamp. Today such a device can be bought in an online store or mall. Selection rules:

  • For home use, you can choose a lamp with a power of 24 to 36 W. This parameter affects the polymerization time of the composition. The higher it is, the faster the gel or varnish will harden. Professional devices have a power of 36 W.
  • For a beginner, it is better to choose an inexpensive fluorescent lamp rather than an LED lamp - the latter option is used only for certain types of materials.
  • What matters is the type of lamp ignition - with an electronic or induction circuit. The first method makes the device cheaper, but is considered less reliable - the lamp may fail when there is a voltage drop in the network. The second option involves using a starter, which extends the life of the device.
  • It is convenient if the llama has additional functions - a fan for quick drying of the varnish, a timer.

How to choose files for a beginner

The manicurist has a large assortment of nail files. These devices have varying degrees of abrasiveness, which is measured in grits. The rougher the instrument, the lower the number of grits it has. Files of 80 – 180 grits are used only for processing artificial plates, 180 – 240 – for natural nails. There are files with a grit of 240 - 500 grit - they are used for grinding, and over 1000 - for polishing. The file is a consumable item and quickly becomes unusable, so it’s worth ordering a set.

Price

Materials for nail extensions may vary in cost, it all depends on the composition, brand and specific point of sale. In the catalogs of manicure accessories in Moscow stores, products are sold at the following prices.

Nail extensions are a life-saving trick for many women. After all, a regular manicure lasts on your nails for at most five days, and after gel extensions you can walk around with beautiful nails for at least three weeks without worry. We offer the necessary list of tools and materials for home use, which can be purchased as a starter kit or each element separately.

Agree that not every woman can resist this, because you can do your usual household chores and not worry about the condition of the tips of the nail plate, they will be in excellent condition. This fully explains the high popularity of this procedure. Among the materials offered, gel is the most durable.

Required tools: list

Sample starter kit

The use of a gel base requires the presence of special equipment and cosmetic devices that will ensure its good adhesion to the nail plate. Their alternate use will provide a smooth and shiny manicure.

What nail designs with mirror gel polishes currently exist are described in detail in this article.

These include:

Nail files

They are necessary for filing the natural nail plate and extensions. Among their huge variety, you need to focus on the level of roughness of the tool. It is measured in grits; the lower the number, the rougher the file. For example, an 80x80 grit product is used only for artificial nails; it can damage natural ones. For them, the optimal working file is a product with 180×240 grit. Usually this is what is used, and for artificial ones a 100×100 file is used.

For personal use, they are purchased in pairs, and if you intend to use them to perform manicures for clients, then you can safely purchase files in batches in large quantities. Professional craftsmen make separate files for each of their regular clients.

The choice of their shape depends on the preferences of the person who is going to use them regularly; some like products in the form of a boomerang, others choose the classic straight shape.

Ultraviolet lamp for home

There are several types of lamps: UV LED, CCFL or CCFL+LED. The picture shows UV LED.

This is an indispensable attribute of nail extensions, it is necessary for any type of manicure, even a simple coating with varnish will go faster if after the next application decorative product use a lamp. And the gel material simply won’t harden without it. For home use, you shouldn’t save on it, but you don’t need to overpay either: the stylish design of the lamp will not affect the quality of the manicure in any way, and the effect of the special functions is very doubtful, for example, the same blower will not significantly reduce the drying time.

Buff

Types of buffs

This is a modified file for natural nails, which is a block with a square section. His inner part made of foam rubber, and the outer one is covered with sanding material. The resulting dust from sawdust should be shaken off with a brush with artificial bristles. It, like its analogues, ordinary files, comes in different grits. The most common indicator is 120x120x120, but in the process of work, each master chooses a buff file “for himself.”

Wire cutters

Always inquire about the material from which the instrument is made. Give preference to stainless steel - this metal will withstand sharpening and any disinfection - thermal or chemical.

Pusher

The first criterion that should be followed when choosing a pusher is the width of your nails. The narrower the nail plate, the narrower the pusher’s shoulder blade should be.

This metal tool, on one side of which there is a spatula for pushing back the cuticle, and on the other there is a small tip, reminiscent of a small knife. For ease of use, its holder is corrugated.

Orange sticks

The sticks got their name due to the material from which they are made – orange wood. It’s just that this tree has a soft but dense structure, which does not allow the sticks to delaminate and injure the nail.

They are multifunctional and can replace a pusher. They are used throughout the entire nail extension process; they can be used to glue rhinestones, apply simple designs, and correct the spreading of the gel. They are able to cope with many problems that arise during the extension process.

Brushes

To carry out the procedure, you will need a set of them for uniform application of the gel, as well as for its modeling; in the latter case, you need to choose a flat brush with artificial bristles.

Boat

Boat – also called guillotine or tip cutter. Designed for shortening tips or a thin layer of acrylic or gel.

This is a type of wire cutter that is used to reduce the length of tips.

Brush

To avoid damaging your skin, choose brushes with soft bristles.

A small plastic product with synthetic bristles that will sweep away dust from nails when filing them.

Materials for extension of nail plates with gel

Manicure is not limited to the presence of only one basic substance. Additional materials will be required to secure it and apply it evenly.

Gel

Gels come in transparent and colored

It hardens under the influence of ultraviolet rays emanating from the lamp. The gel is a viscous substance that, when hardened, creates a fairly durable coating; it is able to clearly form the shape of a new nail. It is important to know, . There are several types of material:

  • Single-phase- a universal option. It is the most economical. One acts as a base, modeling and setting agent.
  • Two-phase. It contains two components that have a triple effect: they protect, cover and shape the plate. This type also protects nails from fungus and splitting. When using it, you should take care of purchasing Base Gel.
  • Three-phase. Each of its components performs its role: it acts as a base, models the nail and secures the coating.

Most often, craftsmen use a single-phase type; it is ideal for home use. How does gel polish design work? short nails, described in detail in this.

Tips

Types of tips

They are the ends of the nail plate, they stick to it and extend the length. They are made of high-quality plastic, which, despite its low thickness, is highly flexible and has excellent strength. They are difficult to break, but can be easily filed. Tips have different thickness and configuration, and there are:

  • springboard-shaped;
  • with a narrow plate of different lengths;
  • with a wide plate;
  • convex;
  • flat.

This separation is necessary so that the tips fit perfectly under different shapes nails They have their own design:

  • contact edge, which is glued to the natural nail;
  • free extended length, which is made thicker than the opposite edge;
  • feet - a conventional line dividing both these edges.

To secure them to the plate you will need to purchase special glue.

Primer

"Primer" is translated from English as "primer". Based on this, it immediately becomes clear what it is needed for: to prepare the basis for further application of decorative coatings (for example, gel nail polish) and to protect the nail plate from exposure to chemical components “from above.”

Not many people know what it is like. It can be of two types:

  1. Nail-prep or Bond. It is used to degrease the top layer of the plate. This is an acidic type of primer. It is made using methacrylic acid, it helps open the nail scales and due to this, better adhesion to the gel occurs.
  2. Ultrabond– acid-free primer is used to dehydrate the nail. It completely covers the nail plate and improves the fixation of the base. It creates better adhesion compared to the previous type.

Forms

Correctly fixed forms are the key to a neat appearance of the finished nail.

They are paper or plastic templates that make nail shaping easier. There are even metal molds– reusable. The paper version is intended for one-time extensions.

Depending on their location, forms are divided into two types:

  • Upper– reminiscent of tips, just like they are made of thick plastic.
  • Lower– made of thick paper, they will help you easily form any nail shape.

For each nail plate you should select your own plate.

Napkins

The napkins do not have lint, so that nothing “extra” sticks to the fresh gel and does not remain on the prepared plate.

These are special lint-free products that can be purchased in specialized stores. They are made in the form of a roll, similar to a tape adhesive plaster. Before gluing the tips, for better adhesion, the required piece of napkin is cut from the roll and the entire nail plate is carefully wiped with it.

Degreaser

The degreaser removes natural deposits (dust and grease) from the surface of the nails, while preparing the plate for better adhesion to the modeling material.

It is necessary to remove the sticky layer. At home, medical alcohol is used instead.

And for those who want to understand, you should follow the link and read the contents of the article.

Finish gel

Finish gel is used for both gel and acrylic extensions. One of its important advantages is increasing the lifespan of the nail and consolidating its design. This eliminates the need for polishing the nail and additional application of a fixative.

It is used at the end of the extension procedure to prevent the cuticle from drying out. At first, procedures are used to make it easier to get rid of it.

At the final stage of purchasing all the materials and tools for nail extensions, you should immediately purchase everything you need to apply the jacket. You need to take care of the purchase:

  • Camouflage gel. It happens different shades, you can choose any natural tone from light pink to brown.
  • Colored gel compositions. For home use, you can limit yourself to two colors.
  • White gel.
  • Acrylic paints for application different designs, and they will require thin brushes.
  • Various decorations: stones, rhinestones, tinsel, mica and others.

In the video, what is needed for gel nail extensions:

Gel nail plate extension is a panacea for brittleness, peeling and thinness of nails, or use. This procedure will take more than an hour, but then you won’t have to take care of a manicure every week; hands with such nails look well-groomed in any environment. It is more profitable to purchase all the listed materials and tools in a kit, then you can save up to a quarter of their total cost.