Aarne Thompson lost the system of elementary plots. Index of folk tale plots

A little about fishing. If you think that they fish for omul in the same way as for sor (lake) fish such as perch and sorozhka, then you are sorely mistaken... When a man sits by the hole, drinking beer twenty meters from the shore and, shaking the fishing line, languidly talking to neighbor, periodically pulls out small fish with red fins from the hole... this, I tell you, is not a drive at all. And the drive is fishing for omul.
Omul is a noble fish and will not go to just anyone.
Omul is a schooling fish. The school may pass under you, or it may pass about five hundred meters away, and its “ear” will not point in your direction. Omul, as you know, is a noble and finicky fish, no matter how it will not be caught. Professional fishermen call ice fishing for omul in short – drill fishing.
Bormash, an amphipod crustacean, is the main omulin food and the main fishing bait and bait. This arthropod, similar to a cockroach and a small shrimp at the same time, is considered a noble orderly of Lake Baikal, as it destroys dead organisms.
For one fishing trip, a 0.5-1 liter jar of bait is enough. Before going directly to fishing, purchased or caught crustaceans are poured into felt boots. Felt boots are needed for drill comfort and warmth. After all, for fishing you need live bait, but in a jar the crustacean will freeze and die.
The second stage of preparation is the most secret - fishing rods. Every angler has a whole set of fishing rods for winter fishing. They differ from each other only in the color and quality of the “fly” - artificial bait. For omul, the “fly” should resemble a bormysh, its main food. Bait is most often made from thick thread (for example, yarn). Moreover, fishermen try to adhere to fashion trends. For example, a couple of decades ago, a “fly” made from English cloth (material for overcoats from the time of World War I) was considered especially chic. The owner of a rag the color of swamp mud became the object of envious glances.
Currently, a whole “fly industry” has been established. Craftsmen make and sell simply amazing products! To the experienced eye of a fisherman, it is a real work of art, incomparable in beauty. But each fish has its own beauty. And what she sees with her fish eyes is almost impossible to predict. After all, how can we explain the fact that in the early morning, at dawn, the omul bites exclusively on the zebra? "Zebra" is a "fly" made from black and white plastic rings attached to a hook. From a human point of view, this striped structure is least like a bormysh, but the omul (at dawn!) thinks differently. But closer to noon, brown “flies” are already used, but they are not always attractive to this picky fish.
Often the color of the “fly” depends on the weather conditions (every self-respecting fisherman should be able to navigate this well). That's probably all main secret fishing.
How does drill fishing happen?
Let's move on to the process of omul production itself. First you need to drill a hole. Considering that the ice can be up to 120 cm thick, this is hard physical work. On average, this activity takes 5 minutes. On full preparation hole - expanding it with a crowbar and scooping out the ice with a slotted spoon - takes up to 10 minutes.
The fishing process itself takes place with the participation of the crustaceans already mentioned more than once. A small (non-through) depression is pecked next to the hole, which is connected to the hole by a channel. The drill caught the day before is sent into this depression filled with water, which independently moves through the channel into the hole and attracts the omul with its presence. At this moment, a fisherman is already waiting for the fish, dangling fake food near its nose. As soon as the omul swallows the bait, you need to be able to hook it and do it quickly. The omul can easily break off as the ice fishing hook is barbless. That is why the main position for catching winter omul is standing. In this position it is more convenient to jerk the fish. Doing this while sitting is more difficult.
However, some aces, more often than not, as entertainment at the end of fishing, catch fish while lying down. This method is called "close-up". The fisherman lies down on the ice and begins to peer into the depths of the lake. After a few minutes, when the eyes get used to the darkness, it becomes clear what is happening deep in the water. According to the fishermen, the spectacle is unforgettable. From a distance, the omul looks like small sharks with an open mouth. These monsters run around in search of food. And out of nowhere, a large gaping mouth grabs a “fly” hanging in the water. Here the fisherman, captivated by the spectacle, needs to be able to not get confused and hook the fish in time...
And although not all fishermen are blessed with a successful bite, there are still moments in omul fishing when almost everyone catches fish. This is the moment of passage of a flock or school. It is interesting to observe this phenomenon from the outside. Several dozen fishermen suddenly begin to actively wave their arms, imitating a windmill. And all they do is wrap a multi-meter fishing line around their hands. You can’t stop – the omul may break loose. Yes, in general, fishermen have no time to think about fatigue. That's what they're going for.

Freezing of Lake Baikal occurs gradually. First, the surface of the water is covered with a thin ice crust. But even a slight wave breaks this crust into separate small thin ice floes. They have the local name "lard". Then, ice banks form near the coast - narrow strips of ice that freeze when storm waves roll onto the shore. On coastal cliffs during storms, ice crusts and icicles-stalactites hanging down grow from freezing spray. These are the so-called “sokui”, which remain as a natural decoration even after complete freeze-up, throughout the winter. Sometimes even unique ice grottoes appear in Sokui. In open water, the process of ice crystallization, which is initially invisible to the eye, occurs. Water cannot freeze completely due to constant wave mixing, but small lenses and needles a few millimeters in size are formed in it.

With the onset of cold weather at air temperatures below -20°C, in the first 3-4 days the ice grows by 4-5 cm per day. At the end of October, shallow bays freeze, January 1-14 - deep-water areas. In the southern part, Baikal is closed for 4-4.5 months, in the northern part - 6-6.5 months. In the water area of ​​the lake, the ice thickness ranges from 70 to 120 cm, and a pattern has been identified: the more snow, the thinner the ice. Along the northwestern coast and in the Small Sea, transparent ice free of snow forms, through which you can see the bottom in shallow water.

Ice 50 cm thick can withstand a weight of up to 15 tons, so in winter you can freely move on the ice of Lake Baikal by car. In 1904, between the port of Baikal and the station. Tankhoy even operated an ice Railway. Ice conditions along the east coast are more difficult than on the west coast. In many areas of Lake Baikal, in the middle of winter, local melting of the ice from below and the formation of steam holes are observed, the sizes of which are very different from several meters in diameter to hundreds of meters. Earlier (by 2-3 weeks) ice melting off the steep rocky western shores was also noted. The danger is created by cracks and crevices in the ice 0.5-4 m wide, stretching for tens of kilometers. Many of these cracks do not freeze all winter, periodically narrowing or expanding. The appearance of cracks is often accompanied by a strong “artillery” crack, which often frightens people on the ice. These cracks are called "stanovoy" cracks. Covered with a thin crust young ice, they often represent insidious traps, very dangerous when driving on ice in cars and even on horses. Along the line of cracks during strong winds, ice piles are formed - hummocks reaching a height of 1.5-3 meters. Some of them can reach 5 meters in height. Often the cracks widen and leads appear, which is especially often observed in the spring before the ice cover breaks up.

Ice breaking begins at the end of April from Cape Bolshoy Kadilny, because... Ice begins to melt under the influence of rising currents warm waters underwater sources. The northern part of the lake is the last to be cleared of ice (June 9-14). The onslaught of a mass of ice onto the shore sometimes leads to the destruction of engineering structures. There is a known case when at the Tankhoi station ice pushed a freight train along with a steam locomotive off the rails, and in the village of Listvyanka the Angara icebreaker weighing 1,800 tons was carried ashore. In April, the ice cover becomes fragile, darkens, and in May Baikal is completely free of ice, but ice fields and individual ice floes float on Baikal until June.

I have long dreamed of visiting Lake Baikal. And it’s necessary - not in the summer, when it’s just a lake, but to plunge into a real winter's tale. Feel the black icy abyss under your feet. See bizarre ice sculptures created by nature. Breathe in the crystal clear and transparent frosty air.

Therefore, when I found out that a photo tour “The Icy Heart of Baikal” was planned for January-February, I didn’t think for a minute and immediately applied to participate.

Some facts:
- This is the deepest lake on Earth. Depth - 1642 meters.
- Baikal is a lake of tectonic origin. Simply put, it is a huge fracture in the earth's crust.
- The water here is crystal clear, you can safely drink it straight from the lake.
- 336 rivers flow into the lake, but only one flows out - the Angara, on the bank of which Irkutsk stands.
- Baikal contains 19 percent of the world's reserves fresh water. In total there is more than 23 thousand cubic kilometers.
- This is one of the sunniest lakes on the planet. The sun shines here more than 300 days a year.
It also shone during our trip, reflecting every day in the ice crystals and giving stunningly beautiful sunrises and sunsets.

So, green plane S7 via Novosibirsk to Irkutsk. Meeting the group at the airport. Four hours away. In the evening we are on Lake Baikal. The first delight, the first shots.

The temperature is about 20 degrees below zero. It's very cold out of habit. But you don’t notice this - a certain euphoria engulfs you from the opening landscapes.

First sunset.

As for logistics on the lake, it looks like this. The main means of transportation in these places is the UAZ, known as the "Loaf".

Behind the wheel sits not just a driver, but an ice captain. This is what they call people here who know the many subtleties and rules of driving on ice. Trips with an unprepared driver usually end very sadly - at the bottom. At least for the car. People usually manage to get out.

Predawn twilight the next day. We are waiting for the sunrise on the ice near Ogoy Island.

Car brand marketers take note: it is unlikely that anywhere else you can rent a more beautiful car than on the ice of Lake Baikal.

The sky lit up bright colors. Very soon the sun will appear from behind the hills of Olkhon Island and the ice will sparkle with myriads of sparks.

And now this moment has come! The clock says it's about 9 am. I note to myself that a photo tour in winter is much preferable to the same event in summer. After all, it necessarily implies sunset and dawn photography. And here - beauty! Dawn is late, sunset is early, unlike in summer, when it would be impossible to sleep at all;)

The end of January is the most best time to visit Baikal. The ice has just risen (this happens in mid-January), still clean, transparent and not trampled by thousands of tourists. And it didn’t start to thaw like in March.

To walk on ice, crampons are required here. In them - like on asphalt, without them - the risk of injury is extremely high. The ice is incredibly slippery, I tried it once.

The coastline of the small islands of the Small Sea, that part of Baikal that is located west of Olkhon, consists of many grottoes and caves. In winter it looks especially unusual, thanks to countless icicles, splashes and other bizarre forms of ice.

At the beginning of winter, when temperatures are already below zero and the lake has not yet frozen, during storms the water splashes onto the rocks and immediately freezes. Baikal begins to freeze in December, and the ice is completely frozen in mid-January.

And it remains until spring in the most unusual states and forms.

I play the role of a cave photographer while a colleague is looking for an unoccupied location.

The purity of the water in Lake Baikal allows you to see the bottom at a depth of up to 40 meters. Under clear ice Rocks are often visible along the shores.

Dima Shatrov, leader and inspirer of our group.

This is Cape Mare's Head, named after the bizarre shape that can be seen on the map.

Despite the fact that Baikal is not a sea, but a lake, there are strong storms here. The height of the waves can reach five meters. And it was here, at the Mare’s Head, that the most major disaster on Baikal - on the night of October 14-15, 1901, the Potapov ship was caught in a storm and crashed on the rocks. 176 people died.

The waves leave behind amazingly shaped splashes.

And huge masses of ice hovering half a meter above the surface.

All the ice is covered with cracks, the length of which sometimes reaches 30 kilometers.

Cracks appear constantly, accompanied by a loud crash, reminiscent of thunder or cannon shots. When this happens right under your feet, it becomes scary. Although it’s not dangerous, because we never saw open water during the entire trip. Probably due to the frost.

Small nameless island. Below there are many caves in which the whole group waited for the sunset, catching the rays of light refracted in the ice. And I went upstairs.

For me, this peak became the most vivid and memorable impression of the trip. It was quite warm. Very beautiful evening light. I am alone. Silence. This is probably something personal that cannot be expressed in words...

And then there was football, with a piece of ice as a ball and car wheels as a goal. Amazing evening on the smoothest and most transparent ice of the entire trip. And the strange people lying on the right side of the frame are simply photographing the ice floe they brought with them against the backdrop of the sunset sky)))

They ended up with similar photos, only better. I just clicked once, not even in focus. I didn't really want to take pictures. I just wanted to enjoy the moment.

Another portion of splashes.

Cows on ice. Is not figurative expression, they actually make an ice hole for them so they can drink from the lake!

"Warming point." Probably for fishermen - penguins.

The local fleet is waiting for summer.

When the wind blows, using a car driving on coastal snow can create a real snowstorm.

And take a photo of her.

And this is Cape Burkhan and Shamanka rock. According to local beliefs, it is a place of power, because Burkhan, the main deity of Baikal according to Buddhists, lives here in a cave.

And it so happens that Shamanka is the main attraction for Chinese ice selfie lovers. Fortunately, we hardly came across them in other places.

We spent our last night on Lake Baikal at the Uzur weather station, which is located far from civilization in the north of Olkhon.
We played cave gnomes and lit Ilyich’s lamp in the darkness of the dungeon.

And, at the same time, we took pictures of the starry sky.

In the morning I climbed the mountain to watch the sunrise. I met him and it was very nice. But the camera froze at the right moment and there were no photos of the sunrise.

Not far from here, a few kilometers from the shore, is the deepest point of Lake Baikal - a depression of 1642 meters!

You probably have the impression that all of Baikal is an endless expanse of ice. No, that's not true. In many places there are hummocks - different sizes and the thickness of the ice floes squeezed onto the surface.

This is how the trip turned out. Many thanks to the whole group for these extraordinary five days, which I will always remember.
And for everyone who has not yet been to winter Baikal, I recommend stocking up warm clothes and plan a trip for January 2018. You won't regret it, that's for sure! ;)

February and March – traditional period, when many Russians, tired of the endless frost, go for sun and warmth to Asian countries. So this year I was finally ready for a similar trip. I made a route, saved up the required amount, found travel companions. The only thing that was not ready was the international passport, which was promised to be done by mid-March.

Meanwhile, it was February 17th. Defender of the Fatherland Day was approaching and the weekend, which turned out to be longer than usual this year. And I really wanted to take this opportunity and spend it on travel. The choice, however, was limited only to Russia. And now I understand that it was even for the better! I then remembered how a couple of years ago, at one of the photo exhibitions, I first learned what winter Baikal was like. His fantastic landscapes so inspired that I promised myself to see this magnificence live someday.

When, on the same day, I came across an announcement about the upcoming tour to Lake Baikal, I realized that the time had come! True, very quickly and somehow suddenly. My brain resisted for a long time, analyzing the trip budget. “Yes, for this amount you can fly to Thailand for 2 weeks! And you choose a 5-day tour, and even in the cold. It’s not enough for you in Moscow, or what?” However, such a response was felt in my soul! My intuition told me that I would still have time to fly to Asia. And in the case of Baikal, you need to seize the moment! Besides, February is the most favorable time for traveling there in winter.

And now on the evening of February 21st I was sitting on the plane, filled with adventurism and the spirit of a pioneer. I couldn’t shake the feeling that something adventurous and even somewhat expeditionary awaited me ahead. After all, Baikal, especially in winter, has not yet become a popular tourist resort. And this fact could not but rejoice!

Upon arrival in Irkutsk, we met with the guide and within half an hour we boarded a transfer to our destination. I couldn’t believe that in 5 hours the real Baikal would open before me - the cleanest and deepest lake in the world, which we were told about back in junior school. Moreover, I will spend 5 days in its very heart - on the famous Olkhon Island! Intoxicated by these thoughts and having not slept for a day, I fell into a sweet sleep straight to our guest house.

The place where we lived turned out to be more than worthy! The rooms are very cozy and warm, there is a small fireplace in the living room. It also has its own bathhouse and dining room, where they cook wonderfully!

And the house itself was located near a beautiful pine grove.

This is the view from our veranda!

On the first day, I enthusiastically set out to explore the island.
It was something incredible! What I managed to see and learn over all 5 days is difficult to fit into one article. So many discoveries, emotions and new impressions! It seems that I gave a piece of my soul to this wonderful place...

1. Hummocks

The instability of the physical composition of the lake and the temperature of the ice cover lead to the formation of hummocks - ice debris rising above the frozen surface.

The pronounced turquoise tint of hummocks is formed in approximately the same way as Blue colour reservoirs. Sun rays passing through ice are refracted and scattered. Long red rays are absorbed more, and short blue rays are better scattered, visually coloring clear water in a stunning turquoise color.

The height of hummocks is usually small - up to 1-1.5 m. But at the end of winter, when powerful ice movement occurs, they can be taller than human height!

In some places there were not just ice fragments, but real blue mountains.
I cannot express in words how much these landscapes excite my imagination... You are mentally transported somewhere in glacial period or to the North Pole!

It’s as if a chronicle is depicted here on ice parchment

And here you can see ice floes in the form of sunken ships, whose sails rise above the snow cover...

2. Music

Yes, yes, winter Baikal has its own music! And we are not talking about local folklore or folk instruments at all.

This sound cannot be compared with anything... It was incredible, grandiose and scary at the same time!
The sound when it breaks huge lake, like thunder. My guide explained that winter Baikal only seems quiet and asleep until spring... In fact, under the ice the water continues to move, and how! It is these underwater currents that create hummocks and cracks that cover almost the entire surface of the lake. By the way, it is thanks to cracks that all living creatures living under water receive oxygen.

When I heard these sounds for the first time, it seemed to me as if a car was driving somewhere in the distance with music on. It really does sound like a muffled beat! But when the sound gradually grew louder, and no car appeared, it became uneasy. My rich imagination was already picturing the approaching Loch Ness monster, which was about to break through the ice right under my feet!

And here and there, by the way, there were actually cracks where someone could easily have plunged into. Probably, only now am I beginning to realize where I was in the first place... 😉

3. Snow and ice patterns

Since real cracks start to appear after April, in February-March you can calmly and without any fear enjoy the unique patterns that cover the lake. You can spend hours looking at this endless canvas, where not a single stroke, not a single crack, not a single pattern will be repeated! And when you realize that all this was created by nature - Once again You are convinced that people still have time to learn and learn from her.

Thanks to the combination of ice and snow, the outlines of faces or animals could be seen here and there. This is how the phrase “There on unknown paths Traces of unseen beasts…"

In some places the snow lay like snow-white, untouched carpets, and the ice nearby was clean, without cracks. This created a truly dizzying effect - as if you were walking on clouds rather than on ice!

Like a path between the clouds 😉

4. Sokui and ice grottoes

Splashes on the shores and rocks that form when the lake freezes at the very beginning of winter are called sokui. Just like patterns on ice, sokui come in a wide variety of weird shapes!

Sometimes it looked like beautifully frozen waterfalls...

Behind the splashes there are many caves and grottoes, which are inaccessible in summer due to more high level water. Despite the fact that I have been in real and quite large caves, the Baikal grottoes really impressed me. It’s like an ancient sacrament that you’re afraid to disturb with unnecessary movement or sound. And it’s hard to believe that in the summer all this conceals and disappears.

The ceilings of the grottoes are dotted with many icicles resembling stalactites.

5. Bubbles frozen in ice.

It was always interesting to imagine what a bubble frozen in ice would look like. And is this even possible in principle? It turns out that it’s still possible!
Methane gas released by algae rises to the surface from the bottom of Lake Baikal. When the lake becomes covered with ice, the bubbles of this gas also freeze. And since they freeze at different depths, it creates an amazing visual effect!

6. Ice transparency

It’s not for nothing that Baikal is still officially recognized as the cleanest lake in the world. Its waters are rich in oxygen and so clear that you can read a newspaper or watch a movie through the ice.

Should you add pieces of ice to tea, or is it just that way 😉

Believed to be crystal clean water Baikal owes its existence to a microscopic crustacean, the Baikal epishura, which filters water by passing it through itself.

7. A means of transportation and active recreation.

Winter tourists going to the island. Olkhon, we were much luckier than in summer.
After all, there is no need to wait for the ferry, which will take a long time to ferry you from one shore to the other. Thanks to the ice, enormous freedom of movement opens up and the opportunity to visit even the most inaccessible corners of Lake Baikal. However, this opportunity should be used only in February and March, when the ice is already quite strong and has not yet begun to melt.

Ice is also a great place for active recreation. Here everyone is having fun as best they can.

And our group had lunch one day right in the middle of the lake. Very unusual sensations, I tell you! As if we are participants in a big and long journey, on which there are no signs of civilization. When our driver cooked fish soup online in a pot, it seemed to me the most delicious fish soup in my life!

But the most interesting entertainment What I saw was making a fire right on the ice. Someone clearly lacked adrenaline :)

Summing up, I would like to say that everyone should visit Baikal at least once. And exactly in winter!
You will experience a range of sensations that you will not get anywhere else.

But that is not all! It is also worth mentioning a few words about the Olkhon, in particular – about the village Khuzhir, which is also rich interesting features and riddles.

During an introductory walk around the village, my guide stopped near one house and pointed to a small hole in the fence.

– What do you think it is?

My assumptions that this is a window for domestic cats, or that it is used instead of a peephole or as an opening for the transmission of something, have failed. Looking around, I realized that there is such a hole in the fence in almost every house. What is so important that everyone might need? local residents? Moreover, this window opens from the outside.

My guide laughed and said that such a question was even in the program “What? Where? When?" It’s a paradox, but the residents of Khuzhir, which is located on the shores of Lake Baikal, receive drinking water in special water carriers. When residents are not at home, utility workers open the window in the gate, extend a hose and pour water into a barrel, which is always there at the ready. I never expected to hear this! Then they told me that even electricity was installed here only in 2005.

Another thing that surprised me while walking was that many of the houses still had Christmas decorations hanging on them! I already wanted to attribute this to the characteristics of the local pace of life... But then my eyes were opened to the fact that the Buryats, who make up a large part of the population of Olkhon, are celebrating New Year on the night of February 26-27.

It’s a pity that on the evening of the 26th I already had a return transfer to Irkutsk. It would be interesting to look at local traditions and how they celebrate this important holiday!

I also remember the atmosphere on the territory of the abandoned Malomorsk fish factory. Once upon a time it was the real pride and beauty of Khuzhir and the Irkutsk region. Several workshops functioned here: fish production, processing, net shop, timber shop, mechanical shop, etc.

But this is the picture that opens on the pier near the fish factory... Somewhat gloomy, but beautiful and even attractive.

Graffiti artists did a very good job on some of the ships, turning them into masterpieces of sorts. I even had a question - why active ships Isn’t that how they write it?)
This place of accumulation of old ships can even be called a kind of local museum. Each ship seemed to have its own soul...

I couldn’t help but notice the local temple, which rose beautifully on a hill not far from the entrance to the village.

It was quite unusual to see him here. Personally, I have always associated Baikal and Olkhon with shamanism or Buddhism. But even more surprising was the story of the construction of this temple, which I later read on the Internet. I quote from the source:

“The servant of God Natalya came to me,” says the dean of the Verkholenskoye deanery, Fr. Vyacheslapav Pushkarev. “Grieving for her deceased husband, she spoke about one decisive event in her life: half asleep, the Mother of God appeared to her and told her to sell an apartment in a prestigious area of ​​Irkutsk, on Gagarin Boulevard, and buy one on Fr. Olkhon house, and with the remaining money she built a temple there. In doubt, she went to Fr. Kalinnik, who did not see any charm in her dream, but sent her to me as the dean of this area. We decided to try it. If it is from God, then it will work, but if not, then it will stop. The proceeds from the sale of the apartment were not enough. Therefore, the temple was built bit by bit by the whole world over several years.” This idea evoked a great response from European tourists, who left considerable donations for the construction of the temple.

Now this is the Temple of the Sovereign Icon Mother of God. The doors there are open, there are no employees, you can take candles and pay as much as you want.

Thus, Olkhon is a place where paganism and Christianity coexist peacefully.

By the way, the hill on which the temple stands was simply created to watch sunsets from it and reflect on the eternal...

I wish everyone who goes to Lake Baikal in winter to experience as many vivid emotions and sensations!

In which he tells why domestic tourism is also cool. I went on a winter hike to Lake Baikal to prove to myself that I am not completely at home with a warm office chair and monitor.

I walked along the road in the direction of Sakhyurta and could hardly believe what was happening. Just yesterday I was sitting at work in front of the monitor, talking with potential buyers, and now my back is weighed down by a brand new 85-liter backpack, ten kilometers separate me from Lake Baikal, and my first hike in my life has started.

The journey began at the Irkutsk airport. Although no. It began long before that, even at the moment when I came across an article with a bright headline: “Baikal is the largest skating rink on the planet.” One phrase planted an obsessive thought and predetermined the acquaintance with the great lake.

Deepest lake

I had no hiking experience, so at first the idea was scary and seemed unrealizable. But the more I read and looked at photographs, the more confident I became that I would be there. On Vkontakte I found a Perm tour group that planned to skate through the most picturesque places of Lake Baikal, contacted the group’s instructor and agreed that I would join them. They promised to rent me special skates, poles and drags, so all I had to do was buy a hiking backpack and warm clothes.

As a result, the journey to the camp site took 22 hours. I reached the shore of the lake after sunset, breathing in the frosty air deeply. At the base I met the guys with whom I had to live side by side for 10 days. The whole evening we sang songs with a guitar and drank hot tea. Getting up early, I went to meet the first Baikal sunrise. It was cold. When the mountains in the distance turned pink and the sun slipped into the sky, thoughts flashed in my head about breakfast and the exit planned for today through the Olkhon Gate to the great expanses of the deep lake on the planet.

After breakfast we went out to the lake, and I went on skates for the first time in a year. It took some time to get used to the moving technique: the movements here are more like skiing, you have to push off with poles, without which the wind interferes with the ride. Inspired, we rushed along the Olkhon Gate Strait to the main water area of ​​Lake Baikal. On the way we heard the cracking of ice. The sound is loud and muffled. When it was heard in close proximity, I felt uneasy. Closer to the tip of the Small Sea, we encountered stripes of hummocks - piles of ice fragments, which on one side overflowed into sun rays like crystal, and on the other hand, they played with all shades blue color. Near the hummocks there were also wide cracks in the ice where there was open water. Slava almost fell into one of these, which scared many people. Every year, about a dozen cars go under the ice of Lake Baikal. Together with failed cars, people also die every year. We have already heard about similar cases, but during the hike we will hear them more than once. When the sun hid behind the high rocky shore, it got colder - it was time to return to base.

“On the way we heard the cracking of ice. The sound is loud and muffled. When it was heard in close proximity, you felt uneasy.”

I didn’t sleep well due to the experiences of the previous day. It was snowing outside the window. We went out to the lake with backpacks, provisions and drags: we were expected to move to a new base. At first I was skating, but the carabiner to which I attached the drag was tugging at my shoulders, and the crust was slowing down my movement. It turned out to be much more comfortable to travel on foot. Soon our group rounded the Udan-Khad peninsula, and mountains loomed on the horizon. It felt like it was a 15-20 minute walk to get there, but with your head you realized that it was at least 5 kilometers to walk.

Further our course ran between the rocky islands of Big and Small Toynak. We decided to climb the first one and appreciate the views. One tree and a couple of shrubs grow on the island, there are textured rock outcrops and man-made “pyramids”. The names of the islands come from the Buryat “toinog”, which means “kneecap”. Indeed, they protrude above the surface of the lake, like two kneecaps - this will be clearly visible from the shore. As soon as we resumed our journey, the wind picked up and snow began to fall. When the outlines of the tourist base became clearly visible, the mountains rushed upward and began to grow at an amazing speed. We went ashore and slowly walked up the slope.

One of the girls had a fever, many were tired, and the general mood deteriorated along with the weather. It was cold in the house and there was a draft. The forecast promised that the snow would persist for several days.

The place where the most powerful wind of Lake Baikal is born

In the evening the sky cleared up, although recently the mountain tops were buried in clouds. The night was starry, but dark. We sang with the guitar again until three o'clock, and it was hard to wake up the next morning. On this day we went to explore the valley of the Sarma River - the place where the most powerful wind of Lake Baikal is born. We crossed the Khuzhir-Nugai Bay along the river delta into the Sarma Gorge. Birds sang there, and the rays of the sun played on the snow - the arrival of spring was clearly felt. I imagined how soon the streams would gurgle in the valley, how the first greenery would burst into flames, and my soul felt light from the thought that nature was waking up. The gorge itself is tightly squeezed by mountains and hides in the shadows, and the frozen river forms an icy trough, along which it is difficult to move on skates - overcoming numerous faults and ice holes. I have long noticed that about halfway through a trip there comes a moment when you feel particularly homesick. For some, this moment has come, and on way back the guys talk about their children.

There had been snow overnight, and it continued to fall in large flakes while we were getting ready to go. Due to the snowfall, Baikal was not visible from the height of the base. Closer to noon we went down to the lake and headed along the shore towards the village of Kurma. This time the drag became a problem: it no longer slipped, as during the first transition, and it had to be dragged along with force through the snow, which in some places formed snowdrifts. The wind increased. We walked practically without stopping, and those stops that were there became very short - after just a minute without moving you freeze. For hours the landscape did not change: you walk with eyes closed, you open it - in front of you is a solid white veil - snowfall. And so on until sunset. Already at dusk we settled into a small two-storey house. There are 20 kilometers of road behind. Everyone is tired and upset. The weather forecast is not good.

“The landscape didn’t change for hours: you walk with your eyes closed, and when you open them, there’s a solid white veil in front of you—snowfall. And so on until sunset"

At night the wind howled. I woke up several times because I was dreaming about something disturbing. After breakfast we went out to the lake and were delighted: in some places the ice was clear of snow and it became possible to skate. The sun often peeked out from behind the clouds and burned mercilessly. So, I got to Oltrek Island in a sweatshirt, and to Ogoy in just a T-shirt. Ogoy is the largest island in the Small Sea of ​​Baikal, and some people specially come to the lake for its sake, considering Ogoy a place of power. We climbed up the crevice to the island, and in front, at its highest point, a Buddhist stupa loomed like a white spot - the Stupa of Enlightenment. We took a break, drank tea and good mood climbed the slope. There were stunning views from the top. The girls began to meditate. In such places you feel unity with everything around you and you want to take this feeling with you.

From the stupa we descended onto the lake along a gentle slope, circled the island from the south and reached the famous Cape Dragon - its western tip. The sharp cape protrudes sharply forward and looks impressive. The rock is so popular among photographers that people with cameras come here alone and in groups, and meters away from it there is a parking lot of cars - it’s problematic to take a photo without people. From the cape we moved to Oltrek. This is a small rocky island where, according to legend, shamans used to be buried. Due to its elongated, reptile-like shape, it has been compared to a crocodile swimming in a lake. There we climbed to the top, rising 30 meters above Lake Baikal, and watched the glow of the sunset flaring up behind the mountains. During the descent, we found a through grotto, overgrown with icicles, and crawled in it on our stomachs. We returned to base already in the dark. It began to get colder, and the ice crackled underfoot, making sounds like gunshots.

Snowfall

It snowed all night. He walked in the morning, while we were having breakfast, and walked when we went out to the lake. It walked when we walked, and subsequently did not stop all day. Four of our group did not go on this trek - they found the car in neighboring village and drove it. We took the heaviest things with us, which made the journey much easier for everyone. Soon after leaving, behind a veil of snow, like a mirage in the desert, Zamogo appeared - a mysterious island where once last days those with leprosy survived. The sight of the goal ahead spurred me on, which helped me cover the first 9 kilometers without stopping and at a brisk pace. The guys took a break on the hummocks near the island, and I went up. The climb up the lifeless and snow-covered island took about five minutes. A cross towered on the mountain, the motif of the Nautilus song could not leave my head, and only the wind could drown it out. It intensified on the next section of the path and was already piercing through. My hands were freezing, my knee was aching. Because of the snowfall, it became difficult to navigate and the feeling that we were making a detour did not go away. In addition, the island behind us seemed to be crawling behind us, like the stones in Death Valley, not wanting to decrease in size. When we approached Olkhon, cars loomed - parallel to the island runs winter road. We rested in a windless place, refreshed ourselves with sandwiches and set off on a forced march to Khuzhir. We entered the village at sunset. There are 30 kilometers left behind and 8 hours on the road. The only desire left was the desire to lie down and not get up.

“The island behind us seemed to be crawling behind us, like the stones in Death Valley, not wanting to shrink in size.”

The sun was shining in the morning. Icicles were falling from the roof - drops. And this despite the frost. The snow crunched deliciously underfoot. We walked around the village. We also reached Cape Burkhan - the high shore of the cape with the Shamanka rock is considered a symbol of Baikal. Meanwhile, fewer and fewer internal dialogues on abstract topics arose in my head and everything more thoughts about what is happening here and now.

In the evening, when they sang with a guitar, I felt a strong desire to stop time, to capture the moment in my memory, so that I could sometimes return to the house in Khuzhir to these guys, to these songs and the feeling of a shared adventure.

The new morning began with an early rise. It was not even seven when a small group of us made our way through the forest towards a new day. The frost was such that it chilled me to the bones. We planned to meet the sunrise on a mountain 666 meters high, from where panoramic view to the island and village. When we got there, the sky was already on fire. During the climb, it seemed impossible to reach the top before the sun appeared - it was so light, but this turned out to be a mistake. I had to freeze for a long time; even two pairs of socks couldn’t save me. The sky slowly shimmered from coral to yellow, from yellow to white, and only then, filling everything around with blinding light, the sun appeared and sharply rushed upward. A new day has dawned.

That day we rented bicycles and set off to ride around Lake Baikal. Driving on ice turned out to be even more comfortable than on asphalt; the speed picked up quickly, and the cold air burned my face. In a couple of hours we managed to go to the island of Kharantsy, ride around it and come back - pure fun! At sunset we came to Cape Burkhan, where dozens of tourists gather to spend the next day. When the sun disappeared behind a chain of mountains on the horizon, and people began to disperse, the sky turned orange, and the landscapes with lonely trees against its background seemed to transport one to distant Africa.

Listen to the ice of Lake Baikal

Shortly before midnight we went to listen to the ice of Lake Baikal. The road to the lake was illuminated with headlamps. The moon shone brightly, looming in night darkness abandoned ships near the village. The dull crackling sound - the breath of the lake - and the endless starry sky above inspired superstitious awe. From the ships, despite the frost, I went alone to Shamanka to photograph the night landscapes. The majestic rocky cape was clearly visible and grew out of the ice, like the horn of an ancient lizard. The view from above was even more wonderful - it’s difficult to describe this beauty in words. I stood, breathed in the cold air, listened to the silence and watched. And then the lights started moving across Lake Baikal. Their light swayed on the lake, like a ship on the waves, which soon miraculously floated ashore and slowly moved upward - it was Yura, Vlada and Inna who walked, illuminating their way. Magical moment. Our meeting at the shamanic pillars gave us a joint road to the base, without flashlights, under the light of the stars and the moon. The night ended with songs.

“The rocky cape grew out of the ice, like the horn of an ancient lizard.”

In the morning we rode on Bukhanka to Cape Khoboy, the northern tip of Olkhon Island. Nastya, a brave girl from Vladivostok, traveling around Baikal alone, joined the group. Along the way we met dozens, if not hundreds of tourists from Asia. They settle in Khuzhir and in large groups explore the surroundings. They especially like the beautiful ice grottoes scattered along the Olkhon coast. Nastya said that there were ten Chinese in each cave here and she was not far from the truth. The closer we approached Khoboy, the larger the hummocks became, and at the very cape, directed upward in the shape of a fang, we even came across ice floes the size of a car. Getting through them turned out to be a difficult ordeal. Immediately behind the cape, the waters of the Small Sea end and the endless expanses of Lake Baikal begin. From this place the lake stretches another 300 km to the northeast (what a scale!), and I visited here. 300 km. These distances surprise foreigners, but are so familiar to us, who have been accustomed since childhood to long flights and train trips lasting several days with a rarely changing landscape outside the window.

To catch the setting sun we went to Cape Burkhan, where, like yesterday, dozens of people gathered. The cape forms a natural amphitheater, spectators take better places to admire the mesmerizing spectacle, and there is definitely an ancient, pagan power in this action.

On the way to the base, a boy with a stick and skates on his shoulder stopped me and asked if he could walk with me. We started talking. The guy's name, tired after training, is Oleg, he is in first grade. On the ice of Lake Baikal he plays hockey and plays for the Opponents team. On his eighth birthday, his parents promised to give him a smartphone if he studied well. That's where we parted ways.

In the evening there was the last camp dinner, a concert of local amateur performances with cosmic music reminiscent of the sounds of Baikal ice, and conversations about Milky Way, Tien Shan and Elbrus. We slept for three hours before heading to Irkutsk. When we saw off the guys on the train to Perm, hugged and wished each other all the best, I felt how the whole journey was becoming just another memory, a set of images, ceasing to be reality - to be here and now. Thus ended the first hike in my life and ended an independent story full of impressions, difficulties, joys, kilometers of travel, music and mutual assistance. With the hope of meeting again, the time has come to say goodbye to Baikal. And say thank you.

Must do on winter Baikal

Try omul and Buryat poses (traditional Buryat dish, local manti).

Rent a bike and ride around the lake.

Lie on the lake under starry sky and listen to the cracking of Baikal ice (at night, due to a sharp temperature change, the ice bursts at the seams).