Why Turkmens. Turkmens

ex soviet republic, Turkmenistan has long been one of the most closed states in the world. Now the country, rich in gas and oil, is experiencing its worst economic crisis in the last 27 years. And if earlier many residents tried to go abroad to earn money, now the Turkmen authorities have banned all citizens under 40 from leaving the country.

Strict censorship and authoritarian regime - the most closed country Central Asia In many ways it can surpass North Korea. The Turkmen leader, former dentist Gurbanguly Myalikkulievich Berdymukhammedov (pictured above) is famous for his unusual decrees. Thus, in Turkmenistan it was forbidden to paint cars in all colors except white, and then a ban appeared on women driving. In addition, Turkmen women are prohibited from dyeing their hair light shades and wear tight-fitting clothing.

And by 2017, the government of the country had to cancel all social benefits for the population: the utopian project of the “golden age” was closed, in which millions of citizens of the republic were practically living, did not pay utility bills and received free gasoline.

The “era of power and happiness” declared in the country turned into an economic crisis with queues at grocery stores and the flourishing of the underground currency market. IN last years Turkmenistan is experiencing a food shortage and a sharp rise in fuel prices. In March 2017, government sources reported that the unemployment rate in the republic had almost reached 60 percent.

Turkmen border guards

Now the authorities of Turkmenistan have made it impossible to travel abroad most population: all citizens under 40 years of age are prohibited from leaving the country. In this way, the state is fighting to retain workers in the regions.

Ashgabat International Airport

The ban has not been officially announced. But according to Radio Azatlyk (the local service of Radio Liberty), the country’s migration services refuse to issue Required documents, explaining this by some “order from above” on a travel ban for persons under 40 years of age. And this despite the fact that in recent years, migration has become widespread: people leave to work (mainly to Turkey) and after a few years take their families with them.

According to the Turkish Migration Service, in 2016-2017 alone, about 25 thousand Turkmen migrants were officially registered in this country. According to some sources, at least 200 thousand citizens of Turkmenistan lived in Turkey, most of them illegally.

The mass exodus of people affects not only the labor market, but also the security of the country. At the same time, Turkmenistan has a long and poorly guarded border with Afghanistan and is the first on the route of Afghan drug trafficking. The outflow of the population has led to the fact that over the past two years, high school students began to be drafted into the army, preventing them from graduating from the 11th grade.

Turkmen authorities hide data on the country's population: the last census was conducted here in 2012, but its results were never published. According to various resources, about 6 million people now live in Turkmenistan, while only a third of the population are people over 40.

In Turkmenistan, the number of people wishing to move to permanent place residence abroad. Massive, all new ones force not only representatives of a non-titular nation, but also ethnic Turkmens to pack their bags. The latter leave their homes, as they say, “until better times,” with the hope of returning to another Turkmenistan. The main direction is Russia, but the geography of the countries includes Turkey and. At the last stage, immigrants from Turkmenistan have settled with entire families, parents work, and children visit local schools. ANT correspondent Azat Khatamov talked to people planning to leave the country and who have already moved to a new homeland.

***
, 8 a.m. In front of the representative office of the Russian Ministry of Internal Affairs in Turkmenistan, not far from the first park, a queue of about three dozen people had already formed. They say that closer to the opening [at 09:30], there will be three times more people here. This department is responsible for accepting certificates and applications for obtaining migrant status. In the afternoon, citizens who submitted documents several months ago receive completed papers. The queue is mostly people of Slavic appearance, but there are also Turkmens. They are not particularly willing to talk about themselves and the reasons for leaving: “Oh, yes, we are preparing documents,” “Oh, we’ll see.”

“Take a tree that has been growing for years in one soil, its roots clinging to these sands, and transplant it into another soil, do you think it will take root easily? Of course, it’s difficult for us, of course, we are worried that we are leaving here, we are thinking whether we will be accepted in a new place, whether the new environment will accept us,” says a resident of the capital, who introduced herself Tamara.

According to her, there were always thoughts about moving: both when the country had just become independent, and at the turn of the new millennium, when Turkmenistan introduced a visa regime with the CIS countries. By this time, all paperwork had been translated into the Turkmen language, and in 2002, the authorities introduced nine-year secondary education in Russian schools (it had already existed in Turkmen schools for several years by that time).

“Yes, times were difficult, there were years of famine, but both my husband and I had Good work, respect among colleagues. We didn’t live richly, but we always had enough for the basic necessities. Once every two years they saved up money for a trip to visit relatives in Russia. It was unusual to fly on a visa; after all, we lived in the same country for 70 years, especially since our family is Russian. It’s like entering your father’s house, having first asked your father’s permission to cross the threshold. But then we got used to it,” says Tamara, adding that many of her friends left Turkmenistan precisely for this reason.

IN multi-storey building where she lives, almost all the neighbors have been updated since 1994. There are no Russians left at all - everyone has moved, and Turkmen families either moved to their own houses in the suburbs or also left. Their apartments are occupied by countries, bought at low prices or rent.

"Impoverished Turkmens"

She said that the first years of the presidency Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov We didn’t think about moving because it was the period of retirement. Considering the work experience of herself and her husband, it turned out to be “decent.” Besides new person at the helm of the state promised changes in the lives of the people. But instead of changes, new disappointments awaited people. The nuts began to be tightened tighter and tighter, it became more and more. For Tamara and her husband, the straw that filled their cup of patience was where the couple had a good-quality country house, where a piece of desert was turned into the most real garden, kept chickens and rabbits.

“At the end of 2014 we were told that crime was growing there and that many illegal immigrants were living there. At first we didn’t believe it: would they really demolish what people had been developing for years and putting effort into this land. And in the spring of next year the bulldozers rolled in and off we went. Without understanding who lived or on what basis they lived, the workers began to demolish all the houses, one by one. We complained, fought,... Residents were sent to the city, explain, they say, everything is in the khyakimlik, and we, they say, are only executors. People were traveling, and when they returned to the village, “says Tamara.

None of the owners were compensated for anything. Some were offered land right in the desert, but to grow anything there requires “decades of hellish labor.” Tamara's family refused the offer. In May they returned to their apartment, concrete walls, but they could no longer live there. Due to the stress they experienced, both her and her husband’s health suffered greatly. After all this, my son called me to his place in the Krasnodar region. The decision was made almost immediately, but then a problem arose with the sale of the apartment.

“Many people mistakenly think that real estate prices in Turkmenistan have fallen due to the law introduced in 2016, but this is not entirely true - apartments were sold for foreign currency and are still being sold to this day. The reason lies elsewhere, in the massive outflow of the population in recent years. People have nothing to feed their families, and there are no prospects for improving the situation. People go into business, construction, trade, but even there they are strangled from all sides, for contracts, they are not given, they find far-fetched violations and rob people completely. Add to this all the latter, which even the Turkmen who are accustomed to everything. People are leaving en masse for Turkey, Cyprus and Russia. Therefore, there was an oversupply in the real estate market, and against the backdrop of impoverishment of the population, apartment prices collapsed,” says Tamara.

The family still found a client for the apartment, although the amount offered was two times lower than what it was three years earlier. The deal has already been finalized, but new owner allowed the family to live in the apartment until departure. This, according to Tamara, will happen soon.

“In our declining years we will build new life close to their children and grandchildren,” she concludes. - Of course, from former colleagues, friends and neighbors, in different years who left the country, we know that changes in climate and environment do not affect older people in the best possible way. Many of our peers and older people did not live long in the new place, leaving for another world due to sudden onset of illness and melancholy. We, of course, look to the future with hope and optimism and count on the children’s support. There is no way to continue living in my native Turkmenistan under the current regime.”

...Meanwhile, after lunch it turned out that the issuance of ready-made permits was temporarily suspended - the representative office of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Russian Federation had run out of forms. It is unknown when new ones will be printed, they said that it is better to call before coming. People began to disperse.

To be continued

P.S. The editors of ANT tried to contact the representative office to get some figures regarding the number of people applying for resettled status, but written requests dated February 12 and 16 remained unanswered. By phone on February 16, the department referred to the unavailability of management in this moment answer questions due to busyness, perhaps they will talk to us in the near future.

Turkmenistan is so afraid of allowing contact between locals and visitors that it has built a multi-billion dollar “tourist paddock” for foreigners in Awaza.

IN Lately There is a lot of talk in Turkmenistan about the development of the tourism industry. They say that Turkmenistan with its ancient history and culture, original customs and traditions opens up to the world with bright facets of goodness, peace and cordiality. The President promises to build a world-class resort on the Caspian coast. Even in Ashgabat they dug a river in order to keep up, as stated, with Vienna, Paris and Budapest.

Anyone who is familiar with the situation a little better than not at all has a suspicion that the thoughts and speeches of Turkmen officials are somewhat divorced from reality. But the reality is that guests are not welcome here.

No one can come to Turkmenistan without a visa, you won’t get a visa at the border, and they haven’t heard of electronic visas here. There are only two such countries in the world: Turkmenistan and Syria. There is also Afghanistan, but with one significant difference - if you or your parents were born in Afghanistan, you do not need an entry visa there. It seems like a small thing, but it speaks about your attitude towards people. In Turkmenistan, on the contrary, it is believed that Turkmen with a foreign passport are ideologically more dangerous than any “real” foreigner.

In short, whether you are Russian, Chinese, or “advanced blacks,” go to the nearest consulate of Turkmenistan, and there they will explain to you where senseless and merciless Turkmen tourism begins - with an “invitation.”

Invitation

An “invitation” is a document that is issued to every foreigner who wishes to come to Turkmenistan. Every foreigner must be “invited” by someone and then bear the responsibility for him full responsibility, even criminal (as has happened more than once). This applies equally to hired workers, tourists, and those wishing to visit relatives living in Turkmenistan.

There is even a normative act called “Responsibilities of legal entities and individuals who invited foreign citizens or stateless persons to Turkmenistan,” which, among other things, reads:

“Those who invited foreign citizens or stateless persons are legal and individuals and receiving organizations are obliged to promptly explain to them their rights and obligations under the legislation of Turkmenistan, ensure their compliance with the legislation of Turkmenistan, and also take measures for their timely registration and execution of documents for stay in Turkmenistan...”

Foreigners who do not have relatives or acquaintances in Turkmenistan, but wish to visit there, are invited to use the services of travel companies that will explain your rights and obligations, prepare the necessary “invitation” at the Migration Service, have it certified by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and charge 300-500 for it dollars.

With the invitation in hand, you go to the consulate again, now to receive the visa itself.

Visa

The Turkmen entry visa (surprise!) is the most expensive in the world. If a multiple-entry annual visa to the US or UK will cost something like 200 dollars (depending on the citizenship and place of residence of the applicant), then for a similar Turkmen visa you will have to pay more than 1000. Turkmenistan also offers cheaper visas for short term and with a single entry, but in a set with an “invitation” and payment for hotel accommodation (even if you don’t need a hotel), they are still incredibly expensive.

Let's take the simplest and cheapest tourist visa - single entry, stay 10 days. It takes about a month and 335 dollars to obtain it - 35 visa + 300 “invitation”. No other tourist visa in the world costs that much money!

Welcome!

Even if you managed to get a visa and come to Turkmenistan, you will need special permission to visit certain settlements, such as Atamurat (formerly Kerki), Khazar (Cheleken), Serkhetabad (Kushka) and Serakhs. Even citizens of Turkmenistan, not to mention foreigners, are not allowed in there without permission. In the language of officials of the State Migration Service of Turkmenistan, this is called “an area closed to visits by foreign citizens.” And in general, a foreigner in Turkmenistan, if he is not a guest of the government, is faced with restrictions and prohibitions at every step.

For example, your visa indicates the border crossing point of Turkmenistan. If plans have changed, you will not be allowed in anywhere else and no visa will help.

Your visa also specifies the places you can visit. If the route changes, you will be caught and expelled from the country. If you also took photographs, then most likely your camera will be taken away from you before deportation. And if you were accompanied by one of the locals, then you most likely will not see him in the next few years.

Having arrived in Turkmenistan, a foreign tourist is required to register with the State Committee for Tourism, appearing there in person with a passport and a certificate from the hotel. You cannot stay with relatives or friends; for this you need to enter Turkmenistan at their private “invitation”. If you are “invited” in this manner, you will have to register at the place of residence of the host citizen of Turkmenistan, where you will be required to submit a whole bunch of documents, including documents confirming your relationship (“hello, I’m your aunt!”) and the purpose of the visit.

In 2009, speaking at a meeting of the Russian-Turkmen economic forum, First Deputy Prime Minister of the Russian Federation Viktor Zubkov proposed simplifying and then abolishing the visa regime between Russia and Turkmenistan. “We need to seek simplification of the visa regime as soon as possible with the prospect of its complete abolition,” Zubkov said then, but did not achieve anything.

Theoretically, residents of the Atyrau and Mangistau regions of Kazakhstan can visit the Balkan velayat of Turkmenistan without visas (no more than 5 days), and residents of the Khorezm, Bukhara, Surkhandarya, Kashkadarya regions of Uzbekistan and the Republic of Karakalpakstan have the right to visit without visas (no more than 3 days once a month) areas of Turkmenistan immediately adjacent to the Turkmen-Uzbek border. Theoretically, because there are relevant intergovernmental agreements, but no one knows what goes into the head of a hungry Turkmen border guard guarding the blessed borders of his homeland. He may let you through and wish you a safe journey, he may shoot out of fright, but most likely he will demand money.

Another category of foreigners who allegedly do not need a Turkmen entry visa is honorary citizens Turkmenistan. However, these cases are rare and not representative. Only three holders of this honorary title are known for certain: Boris Yeltsin, Victor Sarianidi and former Malaysian Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad. The first two died, and the third is unlikely to go to Turkmenistan, especially without a visa.

Ask a question on the Internet about “the most closed countries in the world.” The most popular answer is North Korea, but even there citizens of Malaysia and Singapore can travel without visas. Bhutan accepts visa-free citizens of Bangladesh, India and the Maldives. And the Polynesian island state of Tuvalu, which is mistakenly known as “closed,” even issues entry visas to everyone (including, by the way, citizens of Turkmenistan) right at the entrance.

Turkmenistan is so afraid of allowing contact between locals and visitors that it has built a multi-billion-dollar “tourist shelter” for foreigners in Avaza. Participants of the Windsurfing World Cup who recently visited there were delighted with the in social networks: “The country is a miracle! We have never been greeted with such honor anywhere! The whole hotel was at our disposal! There are servants and security all around!” They were not told that servants and guards were needed to prevent guests from wandering off. And of course, there was no one else in the hotel. There is no one there now.

Bon Voyage!

Speaking about the closed nature of Turkmenistan, it would not be amiss to list the countries to which you can go with a Turkmen passport without worrying about obtaining a visa. There are 15 such countries in the world:

Antigua and Barbuda, Barbados, Dominica, Ecuador, Gambia, Georgia, Grenada, Haiti, Malaysia, Micronesia, Namibia, Philippines, St. Vincent and the Grenadines, Sri Lanka and Turkey.

Another 30 countries offer citizens of Turkmenistan to obtain a visa “on the spot” upon arrival:

Armenia, Bangladesh, Bolivia, Burundi, Cambodia, Cape Verde, Comoros, Djibouti, Guinea-Bissau, Jamaica, Jordan, Kenya, Laos, Lebanon, Madagascar, Maldives, Mali, Mauritania, Mauritius, Mozambique, Nepal, Nicaragua, Palau, Samoa, Seychelles, Tajikistan, East Timor, Togo, Tuvalu and Uganda.

With Turkey it is clear - as Turkmenbashi said, “one people, two states.” But the rest of the countries, which hospitably open their doors to the citizens of Turkmenistan, cannot be called desirable leisure travel destinations for Turkmens. Armenia, Georgia - perhaps yes, but I doubt that a tourist from Turkmenistan has ever set foot on the beautiful beaches of Micronesia or Palau. I also doubt that if you show up at the Ashgabat international Airport and tell the border guard that you are heading to Antigua and Barbuda, you will not be taken straight from the airport to a mental hospital.

And in general, according to the list, it is unlikely that anyone would argue that the authorities of Turkmenistan do not have their own view on the idea of ​​traveling without visas. After all, any passenger can be removed from the plane without explanation, even if he is flying to Malaysia, even if he has the necessary visa and more than one.

Turkmenistan is the most closed country in the world. Turkmens for the most part do not travel anywhere (I do not mean the “golden Ashgabat youth” who prefer traditional routes: the UAE, Turkey, Thailand). The number of tourists who visited Turkmenistan is negligible, so much so that the exact numbers constitute a state secret. One of the most popular tourist spots is the blazing gas crater in Darvaz. It is called "The Door to the Underworld." There is no sign on the door whether it is an entrance or an exit.

Arslan Mamedov,
"Gundogar"

Post-Soviet Venezuela: Why is there nothing to eat in gas-rich Turkmenistan?

When it comes to hyperinflation, economic crisis and food shortages, the oil-rich South American country of Venezuela, which has been engulfed in civil strife for years, comes to mind. However, the post-Soviet space also has its own “Venezuela”. Quiet, peaceful and closed Turkmenistan, whose neutral status is confirmed by a separate resolution of the UN General Assembly, is in approximately the same state. By recoverable reserves natural gas Turkmenistan ranks fourth in the world after Russia, Iran and Qatar (17.5 trillion cubic meters). At the same time, there is a shortage of food in the country, prices are rising, the government has introduced restrictions on the purchase of food and tariffs for the population for previously free utilities. There are logical reasons why Turkmenistan, which after gaining independence in 1991 had every chance of becoming a “second Qatar” in terms of development, has turned into something between modern Venezuela and North Korea.

News on the topic

Oasis of corruption in Central Asia

Over the 27 years of independence, Turkmenistan has never experienced a full-fledged change of the ruling regime. Power is in the hands of the Democratic Party, the successor to the Communist Party of the Turkmen SSR. The former first secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Turkmenistan and the first president for life, Saparmurat Niyazov, ruled the country continuously until his death in 2006. In 1991-2006. There was a personality cult of Niyazov in the country, he was proclaimed the Eternally Great, and was called the leader and Turkmenbashi (the head of all Turkmens). Niyazov suppressed any dissent and took control of foreign exchange flows in the country. He published his own philosophical and historical work “Rukhnama” (“Book of the Spirit”), in which he argued that the Turkmens are a great people who founded over 70 states in Eurasia, invented the wheel, the cart, and were the first to smelt metal. The study of the Rukhnama in those days became a compulsory subject in schools and final exams were taken on it.


The case of Turkmenbashi continued former minister of Turkmenistan, who was nicknamed Arkadag (patron). Niyazov's personality cult gradually turned into Berdymukhamedov's personality cult, and corruption reached even greater proportions. In 2016, Turkmenistan ranked 154th in the ranking of susceptibility to corruption among 174 countries of the world. Limited in Turkmenistan private property, does not develop middle class. The state controls the economy and the media. The country's main source of income is the sale of natural gas to China. The President and members of his family hold decisions on tenders in the oil and gas industry, construction, medicine, and all contracts are concluded through them. Berdymukhamedov personally selects the companies he wants to see as contractors. Corruption permeates all spheres of life in the country. Without a bribe it is impossible to get a job or send a child to kindergarten. The government creates the appearance of fighting corruption. Last year it was formed Civil service to combat economic crimes. At the same time, 50 employees of internal affairs bodies, prosecutors and heads of departments and enterprises in the oil, gas and chemical industries were arrested.

Hunger, cold, no water

Since the fall of last year, the food crisis has continued in Turkmenistan, and local residents they fear the onset of famine. Turkmens are already comparing current situation with the “hungry” 90s. By official information, in 2017 and 2018, Turkmen peasants collected at least 1.6 million tons of wheat, which is supposedly enough to cover domestic needs and for export. According to Azatlyk radio, growing wheat was much more difficult this year due to dry weather, lack of water and fertilizers. The Turkmens collected unripe wheat, and the lands in the north of the country intended for grain were sown with cotton by order of the authorities. This year, the expenses of state land tenants for the sowing campaign did not pay off, and they were called to the prosecutor's office for clarification.


Ilya Varlamov (zyalt.livejournal.com)

Water supply problems are a pressing issue for countries Central Asia. Turkmenistan is no exception. In the cities of Turkmenbashi and Balkanabat, water is usually supplied from 18:00 to 22:00, and is often not available 24 hours a day. However, the reason for the crop failure lies not only in natural factors, but also in the disorganization and carelessness of the authorities, who do not create necessary conditions for the efficiency of agricultural work. Peasants complain that the authorities do not supply equipment and fertilizers in a timely manner to carry out the necessary land work. In such conditions, it is impossible to fulfill plans for growing wheat and other crops.

News on the topic

There is not enough bread, flour, vegetable oil, sugar. People line up in long lines at government stores. Bran, which is usually fed to livestock, and expired ten-year-old flour have become popular goods. Turkmens from settlements close to Ashgabat began to go to the capital's stores to buy groceries. This was practiced in Soviet time. In order to save food, the authorities took “draconian measures” against own people. Turkmen law enforcement officers fine citizens for taking food out of the capital and specifically check cars with regional license plates that move from Ashgabat. A few days ago, a Turkmen driver was fined twice for buying two bottles of vegetable oil in Ashgabat, after which he angrily threw them out of the trunk. In state stores, food began to be sold in limited quantities by registration. If the buyer is not registered in the area where the store is located, or he does not have a passport with him, then nothing will be sold to him. Some Turkmen citizens follow the example of Venezuelans and practice “food migration”: they secretly travel to neighboring countries through poorly or unfairly guarded sections of the border to stock up on food. In private stores, goods are sold without restrictions, but prices rise very quickly. For example, for a pack of cigarettes you will have to pay 70 manats, which is 1,150 UAH at the official rate. To understand how this relates to salary, it can be noted that a store salesperson receives about 500 manat per month.


The situation is complicated by hyperinflation. According to economist Steve Henk, inflation in Turkmenistan reaches almost 300% per year, and the situation is worse only in Venezuela, where, according to the IMF, its level could exceed 1,000,000% this year. Hyperinflation drives up prices for food and consumer goods. In the first half of 2018, prices for imported fruit increased by 120%, for canned food - by 47%, cheese increased in price by 90%, flour - by 61%, drinks - by 70%, and electronics - by more than 60%. Because of constant growth prices, sellers in Ashgabat stores do not have time to change price tags on goods.

The exchange rate of the local currency, the manat, is fluctuating. At the beginning of 2018, on the black market, the price for a dollar was about 10 manats, and at the beginning of October - already 18–19 manats. This is despite the fact that the official manat exchange rate is 3.5 per dollar (until recently it was 1.7). Therefore there is a problem with translation local prices into hryvnia or dollar - it all depends on the rate at which you can exchange manats. It is worth noting that this is not easy to do.

By decree of Berdymukhamedov, from November 1 last year, utility tariffs for previously free natural gas, electricity, and water were introduced in the country. The Turkmen leader argued his decision by allegedly “increasing incomes” of the population and “growth of jobs” in the country. According to official information, the country is experiencing an “era of power and prosperity.” At events with Berdymukhamedov's participation, all officials and citizens praise the leader for his wisdom.

In fact, things are difficult with work in Turkmenistan. According to the Kazakh publication 365info, unemployment in the country is 60%. Recently, there has been an increase in begging from home among the Turkmens. People beg for alms or food. Despite the difficult financial situation, Turkmen will now have to fork out for taxes.

Waste economy

One of the reasons for the current crisis in Turkmenistan is the ill-conceived investment policy and isolationism of the Berdimuhamedov regime. Billions of dollars from the state budget are invested in economically unfeasible infrastructure projects, instead of spending them on solving the problem of water supply and increasing land productivity. The most typical manifestation of this trend is the Avaza tourist zone on the shores of the Caspian Sea, which was built over 11 years for $1-2 billion, and maybe more. The authorities of Turkmenistan wanted to create a paradise resort and increase the flow foreign tourists, but failed. A standard room in Avaza costs $70 per night, while $300 is considered a good salary in the country. The price level is approximately the same as in Turkey and Thailand. Local hotel rooms are small and occupancy rates are 30% early in the season. Tourists complain about tasteless food in local establishments. The sea near Turkmenbashi is dirty and shallow, and the air smells of sulfur due to the oil refineries located nearby. Mostly, some civil servants, police and military personnel vacation on Avaza, for whom Avaza is the only opportunity to relax at sea.


Echo of Moscow

In addition, in 2016, an airport in the shape of a falcon was opened in Ashgabat worth $2.3 billion. Turkmenistan pumped $5 billion into hosting the Asian Games in 2017. The port in Turkmenbashi was built for $1.5 billion. Why do all these projects belong to a starving country? , only “His Excellency” can explain.

Turkmenistan has a strict migration regime, which discourages foreign tourists and potential investors from visiting the country. Turkmenistan has a visa regime with most countries in the world. The cost of a visa is $35–$155, depending on the length of stay, and it takes 2–3 months to obtain it. To enter the country, you need to have a special invitation. In 90% of cases, even with an invitation, the migration service does not allow foreigners into the country. There are special rules stay for foreign tourists. They need to have special permission to rent an apartment; they are prohibited from leaving hotel rooms after 23:00. There are restrictions on communication with the local population. Not all objects are allowed to be photographed. The government practices a fee of $2 per day from foreigners for being in Turkmenistan.

It is problematic not only to enter, but also to leave Turkmenistan. Not all Turkmen citizens can go to work in other countries. Some Turkmens work in Turkey, Egypt and Cyprus. Turkmens have to apply for special exit visas. The authorities prevent citizens under 40 from traveling abroad. This applies to women under 35 years of age unaccompanied by parents or husband, as well as men who have not served in the army. If Turkmen special services find any violations of the migration regime, the citizen is placed on a “black list” and is prohibited from leaving the country. To be on the “black list”, it is enough to stay in foreign country longer than the agreed period. 10-30 Turkmen citizens are removed from almost every flight without explanation. The Turkmen authorities are personally depriving the economy of migrants’ remittances. Let’s say that remittances from labor migrants from Tajikistan who go to work in Russia amounted to a third ($1.9 billion) of their country’s GDP in 2016, and


Photos from open sources

Despite large reserves of natural gas, Turkmenistan's export potential has not been fully tapped. Turkmenistan supplies about 90% of natural gas (30 billion cubic meters) to China, and a smaller part to Azerbaijan through Iran. In the process of implementing the TAPI gas pipeline project (Turkmenistan - Afghanistan - Pakistan - India) with a capacity of 33 billion cubic meters. m of gas per year, the issue of constructing the Trans-Caspian gas pipeline to supply “blue fuel” to Europe (up to 30 billion cubic meters of gas per year) is being considered. The authorities plan to increase supplies of natural gas abroad to 180 cubic meters. m by 2030. The development of the oil and gas sector of Turkmenistan is hampered by corruption. According to the Deputy Prime Minister of Turkmenistan for Oil and Gas, Maksat Babayev, law enforcement agencies have discovered cases of bribery at all enterprises in the oil and gas industry. Revenues from the country's oil and gas industry have declined due to falling world oil prices.

All this can continue in Turkmenistan for a very long time, since there is no effective opposition in the country to the ruling regime. Political prisoners are held in Ovadan-Depe prison. Leader of the opposition Republican Party Nurmukhammed Khanamov lives in Vienna. The UN, Amnesty International, Human Rights Watch criticize the authorities of Turkmenistan for violating human rights. The exception is a small number of Islamic extremists, including ISIS supporters, who went to fight in Syria and Iraq and have influence in Turkmen prisons. However, there are not enough of them to challenge Ashgabat.

Georgy Kukhaleishvili,

international political scientist

How and what does Turkmenistan live today? We know roughly what is happening in other post-Soviet republics: in some places they live well, in others they live worse, in others local politics make an outside observer laugh outright. But we know practically nothing about Turkmenistan - it is one of the most closed countries in the world. It is difficult for a foreigner to get there, and it is extremely difficult for a resident of the country to leave. This secrecy exists for a reason: bits of information about modern Turkmenistan show that the country is like a real concentration camp, the rules of which will definitely not allow even a faint smile.

Citizens of Turkmenistan are constantly told that they live in the best and most beautiful country in the world, where science and culture flourish. Of course, thanks to the wisdom of the great leader, like the Sun warming the Turkmens with its warmth. Such a specific system was invented by the first president of independent Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov: an ordinary party functionary in Soviet times, after the collapse of the USSR, proclaimed himself Turkmenbashi (father of the Turkmens) and turned daily life people into total absurdity.

Global Look Press/Arco Images GmbH/Therin-Weise

Niyazov banned opera, ballet and circus. He motivated his decision by the fact that once in Leningrad, while studying at a party school, he went to the opera “Prince Igor”, but did not understand anything. He allowed only traditional Turkmen music to be performed and listened to. School education was reduced to nine years, and higher education to two, physical education was removed from the program, the Academy of Sciences was considered unnecessary and was abolished. Science and culture were replaced by the study of Niyazov's book - "Rukhnama" ("Book of the Spirit"). From it, people learned “new” truths: that elders must be respected, theft is bad, and family is good.

People were strictly regulated what clothes and hairstyles to wear, what to sing and what to think. They began to live according to the calendar, which Niyazov also invented. Gilded statues of Turkmenbashi appeared in cities and villages. Niyazov achieved the greatest changes in social sphere. He canceled pensions, took away benefits from disabled people and advised them to move to nursing homes so that they wouldn’t “spoil” the streets with their appearance.

Global Look Press/imagebroker.com/Michael Runkel

Any criticism of the regime was severely punished. For example, if in a book by a local writer there was a story about how acquaintances talk for a long time about family matters at a bus stop, the book was recognized as anti-state - according to Niyazov’s decree, a bus should run every three minutes. Those who tried to openly criticize the authorities were instantly sent to prison. With the help of psychotropic substances and intimidation, people were forced to admit guilt on camera.

Niyazov was recognized as a beacon of wisdom, an ever-living father of the nation. And then, at the end of December 2006, Turkmen television announcers, almost without emotion, informed citizens that the great leader had unexpectedly died. According to Muslim customs, the “eternally alive” was buried before sunset. No autopsy was performed, and no one found out why their beloved leader, who filled the entire space around him, died.

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However, the Sun did not fade over Turkmenistan - it came new manager Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov. He canceled some of Niyazov's decisions, but in general everything remained the same. Countless portraits of the president, ridiculous prohibitions and regulations, round-the-clock brain-corroding propaganda. In addition, Berdymukhamedov turned out to be a more prolific author of graphomaniac books. To date, almost 40 books authored by the president have been published. A huge staff of translators is hard at work on publications in various languages ​​of the world. Local television almost every day pleases viewers with news about the translation of a book into some language or the presentation of a new creation by a leader. Such news should create the illusion among Turkmens that cultural life the country is saturated.

Thanks to Berdimuhamedov, science is also developing at an extraordinary pace in the country. Recently, all publications in Turkmenistan reported that a new racing car. It was also built by the hands of the President. Footage of Berdymukhamedov thoughtfully making changes to the design of a car and inventing LED headlights on the roof of an SUV brings a smile, but for the Turkmens these are serious things.

People would tolerate such eccentric sights if they had enough bread. But here with him in Turkmenistan big problems: since the spring of this year, customers in stores are registered in special books and are not sold more than two loaves per person. The same situation applies to other products. The country is close to introducing food cards. Hungry fainting among students has been recorded more than once in universities.

According to the testimony of workers from other countries working in gas fields (there are almost no local workers capable of highly skilled work left), such poverty reigns in Turkmenistan that local women are ready to provide sexual services for the cost of a pack of cigarettes.

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Those who try to complain about the difficult situation of people are openly called “dependents” by the authorities. The latest official report of the Commissioner for Human Rights of Turkmenistan says that the authorities must educate citizens “who are unable to independently and actively resolve their economic issues, traditionally relying on state help.” Simply put, Turkmen watch little on TV about the technical genius of the president and are bad at memorizing his brilliant books, so they are not able to earn a living.

By the way, official statistics on unemployment in Turkmenistan are not published anywhere. According to some experts, it is above 60%, and there is simply nowhere for people to work. The state is trying to prevent its citizens from leaving to work abroad. They could at least support their relatives at home financially, but the leadership of Turkmenistan has a different logic: it would be better for the Turkmens to starve at home than to see the world and tell their loved ones about it. In recent years, it has been almost impossible to obtain an exit permit, as well as a foreign passport.

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Nevertheless, people are fleeing the country in droves. They prefer to live and work illegally as janitors in other countries rather than return home. According to some estimates, up to a million of Turkmenistan's five million citizens now live abroad.

How do people get around bans? Despite the harshness of the laws, the state machine of Turkmenistan is riddled with corruption. For a bribe, you can pay off the police and courts, enroll your child in college, extract benefits, or present a false certificate at the border.

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Until recently, many social problems in Turkmenistan, it was possible to smooth it out thanks to gas - the country ranks fourth in the world in terms of blue fuel reserves. Until the beginning of the 1910s, almost all Turkmen gas was purchased by Russia. But then Ashgabat raised such a price that it became unprofitable to buy it. Iran turned to Turkmenistan for gas. Ashgabat was delighted with this development of events, but it soon became clear that Tehran was ready to buy gas only on credit. Until now, Turkmenistan has supplied Iran with gas virtually free of charge.

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China came to the rescue of Turkmenistan, but it turned out to be difficult. The Chinese built a gas pipeline on their own, sent their workers to work on the wells and acquired some fields. As a result, China buys Turkmen gas from itself and pays Ashgabat only pitiful pennies. In 2015, the Turkmens tried to push out the Chinese, announcing the beginning of comprehensive military cooperation with the United States. Washington provided verbal support, but did not seriously get involved with the dictatorial regime and enter into a clinch with Beijing because of it.

The results of such a “wise” foreign and economic policy of Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov, as already mentioned, were well felt by the Turkmens. But the authorities in Turkmenistan are not capable of solving problems in principle. So, in the near future, Turkmens will face bread cards, mass repressions, and new bans. And of course, new books and inventions from the president against the backdrop of a weak army.