What does a glove mean in the Middle Ages? History of medical gloves

Gloves are an integral part of both women's and men's wardrobe. They were needed both in ancient times and today. But in Lately gloves are receiving more and more attention.

Gloves are worn not only for warmth, but also for decoration. They come from various materials, different lengths and colors.

History of gloves
Let's remember their historical past. Let us remember only that part of the biography of gloves in which they became an adornment for women.

Since the 11th century, women have worn elbow-length gloves made of white linen as decoration.

The photo shows long light gloves from the early 20th century.
1900-1920.

In the Middle Ages, the range of elegant gloves expanded - silk and leather gloves appeared, decorated with embroidery or precious stones. Such gloves could decorate any outfit. The owner of such gloves could emphasize her status and material well-being.

At the end of the 16th century, men, who also kept up with women in decorating themselves, began wearing gloves with wide bells. The edges were trimmed with fringe, remember the musketeers. But at that time the shape of such gloves did not touch the delicate female hand. All this will certainly happen, but a little later.

17th century gloves

XIX century. Mittens appeared. At the same time, men began to wear gloves without decorations. Their style began to emphasize good cut and quality material. Moreover, different gloves were worn for different occasions: suede for uniforms, kid gloves for civilian dress.

Before the time of Peter the Great in Russia, both men and women already wore gloves. They were decorated with embroidery, precious stones, pearls, and beads. They were made of velvet, brocade and leather. The gloves both warmed and decorated, emphasizing the eminence of the owner or owner.

The main suppliers of gloves in European countries there was the Frenchman Mauer, in England there was Derby, in Russia there were the merchants Bakhrushins. The Bakhrushin merchants were not only the main suppliers of gloves, but also engaged in charitable activities, for which they were awarded the title honorary citizens Moscow.

Evening and ball gloves from the mid-19th century were wrist-length with a button closure. These gloves were made of white kid, and were pulled onto the hand so that there was not a single wrinkle. Laika must be the most High Quality– elastic, stretches well, retains its shine and returns to its original shape. Apparently because it was extremely difficult to put on these gloves, etiquette prohibited them from being removed. But they only wore them at home.

Those who are convinced that gloves are just a piece of clothing are mistaken. Man has appreciated the need for gloves a long time ago. Their history began in ancient times, when gloves served as protection during work, which, of course, is directly and figuratively, was very beneficial for shepherds and farmers dealing with thorny grass.

In the wardrobe of our contemporaries it is unlikely that more than three pairs of gloves will be found. But still in early XIX century in England, the rules of good manners ordered men to change gloves six times a day!..

The word "gloves" is Russian, comes from the Old Russian "pepper sleeves", that is, mittens with all fingers ("fingers"). Gloves have been known as decoration and protection of hands since ancient times.

The first gloves looked quite exotic: small hand bags that were tied at the wrist. Such gloves first appeared several thousand years BC in Ancient Egypt, scientists say. Later, a special protrusion was made in the bags for thumb. It is believed that it was in these gloves that Egyptian women ate and worked so as not to get their hands dirty. One of the most ancient gloves was found by archaeologists during excavations of the tomb of Tutankhamun. In the pharaoh's glove, unlike its predecessors, all fingers were separated.

But one legend says that one day, while playing on the seashore with a shiny shell, the goddess Venus suddenly cut her finger. Immediately the young goddesses came down to her and tied her with narrow ribbons of linen not just the finger, but the entire hand. They did this so skillfully that the bandage was not even noticeable.

The ancient Greeks did not approve of people wearing gloves, considering them sissies. The weather in the Balkans, as now, was warm, so there was no need to additionally protect your hands. Basically, the Greeks wore gloves only for work.

The well-known hero Odesseus, returning from his long wanderings, met his father in the garden, while he was weeding, according to Homer, wearing gloves.

But in Ancient Rome Almost everyone wore gloves. The Romans protected their hands not only from cold and dirt, but also from hot food. It was much more convenient to take pieces of scalding food with thick gloves than with bare hands, and they did not have cutlery.

Initially, gloves were not a luxury item, but rather a necessity. They were made from a variety of inexpensive materials and were used by shepherds, peasants and soldiers throughout the ages. With the advent of social classes, gloves began to symbolize the status of their owner.

For example, pharaohs wore gloves as a symbol of their high status, while women wore them to preserve the beauty of their hands (they rubbed their hands with honey and aromatic oils and put thin silk gloves on top).

Initially, gloves were made in the form of bags, without holes for the fingers; later they began to be sewn with one finger, like modern mittens. Egyptian women used such mittens to protect their hands while working and eating.

The custom of eating with gloves, so as not to get burned and not to get your hands dirty, was preserved in the Middle Ages - they invented special thimbles made of very thin, good leather, which were pulled only over the fingers.

In the Middle Ages, gloves began to be in great demand. It's funny that some of them strongly resembled mittens, such as the gloves of warriors made of iron plates or the leather gloves of hunters. However, rich and noble townspeople wore gloves with all fingers. The most beautiful and expensive were the gloves of kings and high clergy, embroidered with silver, gold and precious stones.

Historians suggest that the cult of gloves first arose in late Middle Ages, when they turned from a useful thing into a fashionable addition to clothing. And first of all, the glove became a symbol of power. Bishops received it upon entering the rank, knights swore allegiance with it and received their next “promotion,” and representatives of the urban class were given a glove as a sign that they were given special privileges.

For example, permission to trade, collect taxes and mint coins was granted by presenting the royal glove. Even the judges started working only after putting on gloves.

And, of course, absolutely special role gloves played a role in the lives of medieval knights. A glove thrown in the face meant a terrible insult, followed by a duel. The glove received from the lady was a sign of her special favor. Having received such a gift, the knight did not part with it even at night. Usually such a glove was worn in a special pouch around the neck or behind the belt.

Moreover, during marriage ceremonies, the Lombards, for example, as a sign of fidelity to their bride, presented her with a glove and a sword.

TO XII century In Europe, a special profession appeared - glove maker, which was incredibly honorable. It’s just how much skill it takes to sew a glove exactly according to the shape of your hand, and even decorate it with embroidery or precious stones! Not everyone could afford such a work of art anymore. And gloves finally became a luxury item: the more exquisite the glove, the richer and more influential its owner.

The advent of the Renaissance did not change anything. Gloves were and remain an extremely fashionable and expensive accessory. They were made from linen, silk and, of course, leather, and embroidered with gold, silver and pearls. And at the end of the 15th century, it was considered especially chic to sprinkle gloves with perfume. Legend has it that the insidious Catherine de Medici took advantage of this by giving the wife of the King of Navarre gloves soaked in potent poison. The unfortunate woman died in terrible agony...

Leonardo da Vinci himself did not stay away from fashion and came up with useful gloves designed for swimming and resembling flippers in appearance. In the 16th century, in many countries the rules of etiquette became seriously complicated, and men had to take off their tight gloves and put them on again several times a day. Representatives of the stronger sex were not allowed to wear gloves: shake hands, attend funerals, festivals and in church. It was also required to remove gloves in the presence of the king. And although, to meet the consumer's needs, gloves began to be made looser, some men stopped wearing them on their hands, but attached them to their belts.

On ladies gloves Fortunately, such restrictions did not apply, so the glove makers focused their attention on them. Satin, lace, delicately crafted leather, buttons and monograms, gilded embroidery and appliqués... However, the real sensation in the world of gloves was the sharp change in their length. With the advent of dresses with short sleeves, piquantly exposing her arms, women's gloves sharply lengthened. The principle was simple: the shorter the sleeve, the higher the glove. Founder new fashion everyone calls the English Queen Elizabeth I, who back in 1566, at an official ceremony in Oxford, appeared in gloves reaching almost to the elbow. However, only by the end of the 18th century did long gloves manage to gain popularity among demanding fashionistas.

In the meantime men's gloves weren't worried better times. The reason for this was the fashion that appeared during the Baroque and Rococo times for long lace cuffs that almost covered the wrist. Wearing both gloves and cuffs at the same time was stupid. I had to leave one thing, and without thinking twice, the men abandoned the gloves. Typically, the equipment of the French musketeers still retained a glove, but only one... for the hand with which the sword was held.

Men's interest in gloves was revived by Napoleon Bonaparte. A great admirer of this addition to the costume, the great French commander believed that gloves give a man a courageous and warlike appearance. According to contemporaries, by 1806 his collection included more than 240 pairs of gloves. Napoleon wore them almost around the clock and encouraged like-minded people to do the same. Everyone liked the quirk of the nation's favorite, and soon men's gloves came back into fashion. Napoleon's wife, Josephine, did not share her husband's passion for gloves, but still wore them. Most often, she went out wearing very long gloves, and no one even guessed that the emperor’s wife simply wanted to hide her ugly hands.

Answering fashion trends XIX century, new men's gloves were completely devoid of decorations and became strict and ascetic. The main emphasis in them was on cut and quality of material. Rich dudes from time to time ordered gloves from several masters at the same time: one cut them, another sewed wrists, a third sewed fingers, and the leather was generally brought from abroad. More and more people wanted to buy gloves, the excitement grew, but gloves remained a piece goods.

The hard work of glovers was made easier in 1807 by the Englishman James Winter. His sewing machine leather goods quickly coped with all the orders, and the noble gentlemen were finally able to change gloves depending on the weather, clothing and mood.

Women had their own joys. Extravagant fingerless gloves have come into fashion. Following the fishnet stockings, fishnet gloves appeared. And then incredibly soft and elastic kid gloves were brought from wild Russia, which were made from the skin of newborn kids and lambs.

Until the mid-19th century, gloves were sewn by hand, and then a special machine was invented that pressed the edges of the product so that they held well and the joints were barely noticeable. It was very difficult to put on real gloves made of kid, so this operation was carried out only at home. The rules of etiquette of that time required that in public places the person always wore gloves.

A couple of centuries ago, appearing in public without gloves was considered bad manners. They were different color, but the most exquisite ones were the white ones with gold buttons. Men in uniform were required to have suede gloves; kid gloves were worn with a civilian suit. The gloves of the stronger sex were always short, and the length of those worn by the fair half of humanity depended on the length of the sleeve. After the First World War, long women's gloves gradually lost their popularity and went out of fashion.

By the way, Russian Emperor Nicholas I, a great adherent of order, once saw an officer without gloves at a ball - unthinkable insolence! To the king's remark, the officer replied that he had lost his gloves. Then Nikolai gave him his.

The color of the gloves depended on the costume and the situation. Thus, only black gloves were worn for mourning. For visits - gloves to match the suit. White long gloves were worn only on special occasions (we are talking mainly about long kid gloves) - such as a wedding, communion, a ball, a big evening or a visit to the theater (white long gloves in the theater were mandatory for women occupying a box). Under other circumstances, the color of the gloves depended on the costume for women and on the situation (club, visit, hunting, walk, etc.) for men. Hunting gloves were most often made from yellow skin. Lighter gloves were worn at the beginning of the day, dark gloves in the evening, etc. In the first half of the century, the colors of both men's and women's gloves were very diverse. There were frequent notifications that in the morning gloves of the color “Maltese orange” were required for ladies and men. True, the newspaper “Rumor”, which published this message, did not specify the color that was hidden behind such an elegant name.

It is curious that in many cases gloves were worn indoors.
“At dinners by invitation, gloves are removed only when sitting down at the table, before the napkin is unrolled, and the gloves are hidden in the pocket, or if the pockets are inconvenient, the gloves are left on the knees, under the napkin; it is positively indecent to put the gloves near your utensil on the table. Putting gloves on again should be after dinner; putting them on earlier would mean reminding the hostess of the house that it is time to get up from the table.”
If at a party one of the guests was asked to play the piano, then the gloves should be taken off no earlier than “sitting at the instrument and put them on again after the end of the game.” Gloves were not removed while singing.
The same publication drew attention to the fact that “dancing without gloves or with only one glove in highest degree indecent. Both men and ladies should always dance with gloves.”

There were special rules when visiting church. Entering Orthodox church, it was necessary to make the sign of the cross. At the same time, they certainly took off the glove from right hand. This rule applied to men and women without exception. During the wedding ceremony, the right hand of the couple was left without a glove.
IN catholic church It was not necessary to remove the glove from the right hand, since Catholics made the sign of the cross only after dipping their fingertips into a vessel with consecrated water. In addition, you could serve holy water to your companion; usually the younger ones served it to the older ones. This meant that the other person did not need to put his hand into a vessel with water - it was enough to touch the hand of the person giving the water.
There were a number of professions, such as footman or waiter, whose costume required gloves. In this case, gloves could be made of thread, but leather gloves, suede, and especially kid gloves were absolutely excluded.
Gloves were distributed throughout the territory of settlement of the Russian people, as in European Russia, and in Siberia.

The 20th century put everything in its place. The most fashionable gloves for women were goat gloves, for men - pig gloves, and dog skin was used for sports gloves. Glove decorations ceased to be especially popular, but concessions were made to picky customers and they were offered samples with embroidery, feathers and fake diamonds.

The 20th century saw the most dramatic changes in the glove industry, driven by... social change, especially in the last 30 years, which ultimately led to the virtual oblivion of this area.

Until the 1930s, gloves were considered a sign of elegance and a kind of symbol of a true “lady” who wore gloves all year round, along with a hat and stockings. In fact, tanned arms were considered a sign of being working class.

The last surge of interest in gloves ended around the middle of the century. The beautiful actresses of the past Sarah Bernhardt, Vivien Leigh, Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe wore breathtaking gloves, and their admirers and admirers, wanting to be like their idols, besieged haberdashery stores.

In fact, the peak occurred in 1968, when the accessory was recognized as a “bourgeois” sign and became a symbol of official relationships, hypocrisy, ostentation and wealth.

The modernity of gloves is purely rational and uninteresting. There are gloves for doctors, athletes, electricians and ordinary citizens who do not want to freeze.

Today, gloves are not a mandatory element of a modern wardrobe, but, nevertheless, it is also difficult to imagine our life without them in the cold season. Any person, regardless of gender, income, profession, social status, has at least one pair of gloves, be they leather, suede or some other.

By the way, if one of the guests forgot gloves in your house, then, when returning to pick them up, he should sit down for a minute. Then, according to folk signs, he should get up and only then put them on, otherwise he will never visit your house again. In addition, if you decide to give gloves to someone, keep in mind that they are an unwanted gift. Giving gloves means a quarrel. If the gloves have already been purchased and presented as a surprise, do not rush to get upset, just give the person some money in return.

History of gloves

The first gloves looked quite exotic: small hand bags that were tied at the wrist. Such gloves first appeared several millennia BC in Ancient Egypt, scientists say. Later, a special protrusion for the thumb was made in the bags.

It is believed that it was in these gloves that Egyptian women ate and worked so as not to get their hands dirty. One of the most ancient gloves was found by archaeologists during excavations of the tomb of Tutankhamun. In the pharaoh's glove, unlike its predecessors, all fingers were separated.

Frans Hals. Portrait young man with a glove in hand. 1649

The ancient Greeks did not approve of people wearing gloves, considering them sissies. The weather in the Balkans, as now, was warm, so there was no need to additionally protect your hands.

Basically, the Greeks wore gloves only for work. There is a scene in Homer where Odysseus finds his father wearing gloves while weeding. But in ancient Rome, almost everyone wore gloves. The Romans protected their hands not only from cold and dirt, but also from hot food. It was much more convenient to take pieces of scalding food with thick gloves than with bare hands, and they did not have cutlery.

Vladimir Sherwood. Portrait of B.N. Chicherina

Historians suggest that the cult of gloves first arose in the late Middle Ages, when they evolved from a useful item into a fashionable addition to clothing.

And first of all, the glove became a symbol of power. Bishops received it upon entering the rank, knights swore allegiance with it and received their next “promotion,” and representatives of the urban class were given a glove as a sign that they were given special privileges.

Unknown artist. Portrait of A.V. Suvorov with a field marshal's baton

For example, permission to trade, collect taxes and mint coins was granted by presenting the royal glove. Even the judges started working only after putting on gloves.

"Lambert George, The White Glove"

And, of course, gloves played a very special role in the life of medieval knights. A glove thrown in the face meant a terrible insult, followed by a duel.

The glove received from the lady was a sign of her special favor. Having received such a gift, the knight did not part with it even at night. Usually such a glove was worn in a special pouch around the neck or behind the belt.

Vladimir Pervuninsky. To the sounds of a waltz

By the 12th century, a special profession appeared in Europe - glove-making, which was incredibly honorable.

It’s just how much skill it takes to sew a glove exactly according to the shape of your hand, and even decorate it with embroidery or precious stones! Not everyone could afford such a work of art anymore.

And gloves finally became a luxury item: the more exquisite the glove, the richer and more influential its owner.

Edgar Degas

Fortunately, such restrictions did not apply to women's gloves, so glove makers focused their attention on them. Satin, lace, delicately crafted leather, buttons and monograms, gilded embroidery and appliqués... However, the real sensation in the world of gloves was the sharp change in their length. With the appearance in the ladies' wardrobe of dresses with short sleeves, which piquantly exposed their arms, women's gloves sharply lengthened.

Renoir

The principle was simple: the shorter the sleeve, the higher the glove. Everyone calls the founder of the new fashion the English Queen Elizabeth I, who back in 1566, at an official ceremony in Oxford, appeared in gloves that reached almost to the elbow. However, only by the end of the 18th century did long gloves manage to gain popularity among demanding fashionistas.
Meanwhile, men's gloves were going through hard times. The reason for this was the fashion that appeared during the Baroque and Rococo times for long lace cuffs that almost covered the wrist. Wearing both gloves and cuffs at the same time was stupid. I had to leave one thing, and without thinking twice, the men abandoned the gloves. Typically, the equipment of the French musketeers still retained a glove, but only one... for the hand with which the sword was held.

Napoleon wore them almost around the clock and encouraged like-minded people to do the same. Everyone liked the quirk of the nation's favorite, and soon men's gloves came back into fashion. Napoleon's wife, Josephine, did not share her husband's passion for gloves, but still wore them. Most often, she went out wearing very long gloves, and no one even guessed that the emperor’s wife simply wanted to hide her ugly hands.

Responding to fashion trends of the 19th century, new men's gloves were completely devoid of decoration and became strict and ascetic. The main emphasis in them was on cut and quality of material. Rich dudes from time to time ordered gloves from several masters at the same time: one cut them, another sewed wrists, a third sewed fingers, and the leather was generally brought from abroad. More and more people wanted to buy gloves, the excitement grew, but gloves remained a piece goods.

"Singing" Photographer - Minina Irina aka Akita-ino Model - Svetlana Zakharova

The hard work of glovers was made easier in 1807 by the Englishman James Winter. His machine for sewing leather goods quickly coped with all orders, and the noble gentlemen were finally able to change gloves depending on the weather, clothing and mood.

"By surprise" Photographer - Minina Irina aka Akita-ino Model - Svetlana Zakharova,
Women had their own joys. Extravagant fingerless gloves have come into fashion. Following the fishnet stockings, fishnet gloves appeared. And then incredibly soft and elastic kid gloves were brought from wild Russia, which were made from the skin of newborn kids and lambs.

Ekimov V. Yu. > "Still Life with Abandoned Gloves"

It may seem to many that modernity has lost the romance that shrouded the history of gloves for so many centuries. But this is only at first glance. Those who follow latest trends fashion, they won’t let you lie: not a single haute couture or pret-a-porter collection is complete without such an important accessory as gloves. Many fashion designers often assign gloves a key role in the show - after all, this accessory allows you to competently and advantageously emphasize the uniqueness of the image they created. So for those who value gloves only for warmth, it’s high time to look at them in a new way.
http://www.allshoes.ru/article4-3.html

From the rules of etiquette:

Gloves. A man takes off his handshake glove. A woman does not take off her right glove when shaking hands. A man takes off his gloves when entering a private residence. A woman does not take off her gloves when entering a private home. The rules require that a woman not wear gloves at the dinner table in her home or in a restaurant. She keeps the gloves on her lap, puts them in her wallet, or leaves them in any place convenient for her. Both men and women remove at least one glove when smoking indoors. (http://www.museum.ru/eduportal/sait/etiket/etiket.html)

Language of gloves

Moral principles victorian era were not allowed to express their feelings freely. The lady could not openly approach her chosen one and let everyone know what was on her mind. For secret communication, various romantic sign languages were invented, which allowed partners to convey messages to each other and even set up a date. Many secret languages were firmly tied to all kinds of social events and functioned as a special kind of game and a generally accepted form of flirting. The most common were the language of flowers and the language of fans. There were others, the lovers’ imagination was inexhaustible.

There was also a language of gloves, quite natural at a time when gloves were an integral part of women's toilet. With the help of gloves, a lady could signal her lover, show her interest in someone, or ask him to stay away. The man only had to carefully observe what she was doing with her gloves.

Here are the most common meanings of this language:
Yes, the glove should have been dropped as if by accident.
No - just fiddle with the gloves with your hand.
Don’t leave—lightly, as if jokingly, hit him on the left shoulder.

I hate you - turn your gloves inside out.
I love you - drop both gloves at once.
Forgive me - put the glove of your right hand to your heart.

Annoyance or displeasure was expressed by a strong blow to the hand with gloves.
We are being watched - wrapping gloves around our fingers.
I want to meet you - hold your gloves with your fingers down.

I want to be with you, I want to talk - to gently stroke the gloves.
Be careful to hold the gloves loosely in your right hand.
I'm happy to be able to hold the gloves freely in my left hand.
I'm busy throwing my gloves up a little.
I love someone else - tap the chin with a glove
(http://perevodika.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=181&st=40&p=13219&)

Fashionable modern gloves:

Sources of illustrations and reproductions: artwindow.ru, onework.ru, http://www.diva.by/image/wardrobe/accessories/47786.html and other open ones.

The Russian word “gloves” comes from the ancient Slavic “finger” - finger. Initially it sounded like “perstatki”. It is believed that this term could come from the following ancient expressions: perstatitsa, pereshchka or “fingered mittens.”

Historical excursion

The first gloves were worn by the ancient Egyptians, for whom they were a sign of high social status. Scientists discovered the oldest of the samples during the opening of the tomb of the famous pharaoh Tutankhamun. At first, the gloves looked more like mittens, since they did not have covers for the fingers. They were used to protect the hands during archery and eating.

Gloves were a mandatory element of knightly armor: initially they ended the sleeves of chain mail, but later they began to be made separately. With the advent of plate armor, a plate plate began to be attached to the chainmail glove, designed to protect against damage to the hand and fingers. When going falconry, they wore special gloves made of thick leather, distinctive feature which were wide leggings.

Gloves not only performed purely practical functions, but also played a certain role social role. Thus, together with a special staff and an amethyst ring, they were presented to the newly appointed bishop as a symbol of his power. Ladies often gave their lovers a glove as a pledge mutual love, and it was usually attached to a headdress. During knighting, the warrior also received his first “battle” gloves. Of course, everyone knows that this element of the outfit was used to challenge the enemy to a duel. The stable phraseological unit “throwing down the gauntlet to someone” is still common in almost all European languages, including Russian. To greet a person by the hand without taking off his glove was considered the height of bad manners. It was also necessary to take off gloves in church; in Catholic churches this tradition is still preserved.

In the 12th century, workshops were created in Italy, and a little later in France, which included glove makers. Their work was well paid and very prestigious at that time, because gloves were considered luxury items. In the 16th century, elongated gloves first appeared. They came into fashion after Queen Elizabeth I of Great Britain first appeared in them at a reception in Oxford in 1566.

What types of gloves are there?

Nowadays, there are many different types of gloves, differing in both their appearance(a wide variety of decorative elements are possible: from lace to various appliques), and by its purpose. Among them are the following main types:

Motorcycle gloves with gauntlets.
Surgical gloves.
Women's long gloves for evening outings.
Mittens that do not have finger covers.
Traditional gloves in a classic style.

Behind centuries-old history they have mastered many functions. In addition to their main purpose of being part of clothing, gloves have become an element of etiquette, a means of flirting, and a way of challenging people to a duel.
Gloves made of leather, kid, suede, lace, silk, rubber... Even from cobwebs. It is hard to imagine? But the French king Louis XIV sported these. (The technique of making fabric from spider webs was kept in the strictest confidence.)
The oldest gloves were found in a tomb in 1922. Egyptian pharaoh Tutankhamun.
Among the ancient Assyrians and Egyptians, gloves were a symbol of nobility, and they were given great importance. The Persian king Cyrus II, who lived in the 6th century BC, executed his subjects only because they dared to come to him without gloves.

Lucas Cranach the Elder. "Joachim II - the chosen prince." 1520 Iron gloves are an indispensable attribute of a knight's costume.

During antiquity, the attitude towards gloves was completely different: the Greeks and Romans used them at feasts to avoid getting burned, as they ate with their hands. During fist fights, gladiators and athletes protected their hands by wrapping long untanned leather belts around them, leaving the fingers free.
In the 8th century, gloves became important element knight's costume. During tournaments and wars, the knight was completely clad in metal armor; iron gloves turned his hands into a kind of ax. Gradually, “axe” gloves gave way to gloves made of metal plates or rings with a leather palm. And then they began to be made entirely of leather and used in various ceremonies.
In the Middle Ages, the name of the royal glove was used to trade, mint coins, collect taxes, and administer justice. The glove was received by knights upon initiation, bishops upon induction, and townspeople as a sign of the privileges granted to them. But shaking a gloved hand was considered an insult. A glove thrown in someone's face meant contempt, a challenge to a duel, and when presented by a lady, it spoke of the hostess's special disposition towards the gentleman.

Hans Holbein the Younger. "Charles de Saullier, Sieur de Morette, French Ambassador in London." 1534 During the Renaissance, noble people were depicted wearing gloves in ceremonial portraits. This custom survived until the 19th century.

Women have been wearing gloves since the 11th century. They were made from white linen for a long time and decorated with embroidery.
In the 12th century, when the demand for gloves increased, glove makers' workshops emerged, first in Italy, then in France.
During the Renaissance, gloves were not only a symbol of power and luxury, but also a murder weapon. In Italy in the 16th century, “waterproof gloves” soaked in poison appeared. With the help of such “gifts”, the French queen Catherine de Medici got rid of people she disliked.
By this time, gloves were decorated not only with embroidery, but also with jewelry and fur. The most expensive were women's lace Venetian gloves of the finest workmanship.

Men's gloves second half XVI I century (fig. on the right).

TO early XVIII century in men's fashion Lace and buttons are considered signs of sophistication and wealth. Due to the fluffy and long cuffs, the gloves are practically invisible and therefore gradually lose their relevance. They are worn, but no significance is attached to them. But the fashion for ladies' gloves is thriving. Women change this item of clothing three to four times a day.
In 1807, Englishman James Winter invents a machine for making leather gloves. At the same time, rubber models appear.
Passion for antiquity in late XVIII- the beginning of the 19th century was reflected in the costume. Representatives of the upper class wanted to be nymphs and goddesses. Dresses were made from light transparent fabrics, almost sleeveless. Now long, above the elbow, gloves and mittens, or mittens (fingerless gloves), have become a necessary addition to the women's toilet.

Women's glove from the second half of the 16th century (left).Glove from the 13th century - for rural work (in the center).Mitt from the early 20th century (right).

A man puts on gloves when going for a walk, on a visit, to the theater - for each occasion they are of different colors and quality.
Gloves received so much attention that Balzac dedicated a short essay to them, “A Study of the Morals of Society from Gloves.” Its plot is as follows: a lady, examining the gloves of her guests, determines their character, lifestyle, and habits.

In the 19th century, the rules of good manners recommended that women who came to visit take off their gloves only at the table, and could remain wearing mittens throughout the evening. If the mistress of the house receives guests in evening dress, she should be wearing lace mittens. Bracelets were supposed to be worn over gloves, and rings - under mittens. In the summer, lace, tulle or fillet gloves and mittens were usually worn. Men were supposed to wear white or light yellow gloves with their tailcoats. They should be perfectly clean, fit tightly and not shiny.
At the beginning of the twentieth century, gloves for special purposes began to be produced: automobile, surgical, massage, etc. After the First World War, long women's gloves went out of use; short ones were made with cuffs and decorated (remembering the fashion of past centuries) with embroidery, inlay, swan's down, pleating .

Edouard Manet. "Spring: Jeanne". 1881 Long women's gloves were fashionable throughout the 19th century; at the beginning of the 20th century they practically went out of use.

At all times, artisans, poor city dwellers, and peasants had simple, primitive gloves: initially in the form of bags, then with three fingers. Knitted ones appeared in the 16th century.

Diego de Silva Velasquez. "Lady with a Fan" 1646 These gloves were worn spanish women in the middle of the 17th century.

In Russia, with its harsh climate, people of all classes wore mittens, less often gloves, or, as they said in the old days, “finger sleeves.” As in other countries, gloves in Rus' were a sign of wealth and nobility. The royal wardrobe had “rainbow mittens, the wrist is sewn with gold on worm-like (crimson) satin with pearls, gold fringe with silver.” Honor Guard according to the 1674 inventory, she wore a caftan lined with fur, and on her hands were gloves with large bells. Officers of the Streltsy regiments also wore gloves with bells. With the introduction of European fashion by Peter I, gloves became an indispensable part of both men's and women's toilets. Initially they were brought from abroad. Over time, their own glove makers appeared.

Gloves above the elbow, as in Jean-Baptiste Isabet's painting "Christian Boyer" from the first quarter of the 19th century, came into use at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th century.

Part of the uniform of an officer of the Semenovsky Life Guards Regiment is kept in the Kremlin Armory. In 1720, all guard officers received the same green cloth caftans and camisoles, knee-length elk trousers, red stockings, leather shoes, boots or jackboots, a black felt triangular hat and white kid gloves.
In 1811, gloves for non-commissioned officers were abolished; instead, in cold weather, they were allowed to wear cloth mittens made from old uniforms, as was customary for privates.
Whether it’s a legend or not, one day the Russian Emperor Nicholas I, a great adherent of order, saw an officer without gloves at a ball and considered this an unthinkable insolence. To the king's remark, the officer replied that he had lost his gloves. Then Nicholas I gave him his.
Women in Rus' for a long time they didn't have gloves. Even in inventories of the treasury of queens, this item of clothing is rarely mentioned. The noble and rich hid their hands in winter in the warm sleeves of fur coats, in muffs, and those who were poorer wore mittens, like men.

A girl wearing mitten gloves in Gustave Courbet's painting "Girls on the Banks of the Seine." 1856 On the right is a fragment of this picture. Mitts appeared in the 16th century, but became especially fashionable in the 19th century.

For men, in some areas, gloves were an indispensable part of the matchmaker's costume. IN Vologda province they were cut from black cloth and covered with embroidery from spun gold; in Voronezh, they were knitted from various colored threads.
Nowadays, gloves different types and there were even more appointments than before. There are boxing gloves, baseball gloves, for motorcyclists, cyclists, billiard players... and even computer gloves (replacing a keyboard and mouse). And recently the French invented a glove that allows you to determine the ripeness of fruits by touch and thereby choose best moment for harvesting. When contacting, for example, an apple, sensors built into a “smart glove” provide various information: the size of the fruit, its sugar content, and others. chemical compounds, shock resistance, etc. I wonder what else scientific and technological progress will bring us?

Mink coats First fur salon

N. MULLER, artist.

Information desk
GLOVE - BY SIZE

According to the new international system, the glove size is equal to the circumference of the palm (in centimeters) at its widest part, excluding the thumb (see picture). The most common sizes for women are 19-20, for men 24-25. However, to determine the size it is also useful old version. In this case, the number of centimeters obtained during measurement must be divided by 2.7 - the so-called conventional vershok. The final figure will also correspond to the size of the gloves. So, with a palm girth of 17.5 cm, you need size 6 1/2, for 19 - 7, for 20.5 - 7 1/2, 22 - 8, 23 - 8 1/2, 24.5 - 9, 26 - 9 1/2, 27 - 10.

What does a glove mean in the Middle Ages? History of medical gloves

Historical excursion

What types of gloves are there?

Information deskGLOVE - BY SIZE

Information desk
GLOVE - BY SIZE