According to the proverb, who is safe when the wolves are full? “And the wolves are fed, and the sheep are safe”: the meaning of phraseology

Despite the fact that stores sell modern chemical compositions, which do not have a pungent odor, many people continue to use kerosene. It can be useful when working with paints and varnishes, when repairing equipment, as a flammable substance and in many other matters. But if this flammable liquid gets on surfaces, furniture, clothing or dishes, it is very difficult to remove the smell of kerosene.

How to remove the smell of kerosene?

How to remove kerosene?

If you have ever tried to remove the smell of kerosene, you probably know that it is very difficult to do. You can air things out on the balcony or in the yard in the open air for weeks, but the stench stubbornly refuses to leave the surface of the objects. Those who once tried to wash things stained with this flammable liquid in washing machine, they also know that it is impossible to put other laundry in it after this. The smell stubbornly refuses to leave household appliances and is transmitted to everything that gets into it.

However, although it is difficult, it is possible to remove the pungent odor. For this use:

• slaked lime;
• sawdust;
• mustard powder;
• detergents.

Of course, you will need to make a lot of effort to make the smell disappear, but your favorite things will be saved.

Ways to remove the smell of kerosene

• Dilute half a glass of any dishwashing detergent in a bowl of water and put a kerosene-smelling item in it for several hours. Then add soda to the basin and washing powder and wash your clothes thoroughly by hand.
• If the item can be washed in bleach, then add whiteness when soaking. After some time, rinse it, changing the water several times.
• If you need to clean the container in which it was poured from kerosene, use mustard powder. Pour into container warm water, dilute mustard in it and leave for 2-3 hours. Pour out the liquid and rinse the container several times.
• If kerosene has been spilled on the floor or other surfaces, the smell can be eliminated by sprinkling sawdust on the area. They quickly absorb the flammable aroma. If it was not possible to completely remove the kerosene the first time, then the procedure must be repeated again.
• The smell from the washing machine can be removed using degreasers. Car cleaner or strong dishwashing detergent will work. Pour it into the machine and run the soak cycle. If you have unnecessary rags, throw them there too. They will help remove kerosene from the walls of the drum.

As you can see, removing kerosene is difficult, but possible. And yet, when working with this flammable material, it is better to be careful and use old things that you would not mind throwing away later.

Kerosene is a convenient fuel source used for lamps, heaters in workshops and other applications. This oil is safe when handled correctly and has an unpleasant odor.

This type of fuel is produced in the form of an oily, light yellow or colorless liquid.

If a petroleum product gets on things, precautions should be taken to remove the smell of kerosene from clothing and the substance itself.

The flammable agent is difficult to remove if the fabric has been thoroughly saturated with it, so stain removal begins immediately.

In addition, kerosene vapors can be harmful to health. If you spill oil on your hands or something, you should remove it immediately. Exposure to vapors over a long period leads to pulmonary artery problems.

Removing the oil base

Getting rid of the oily product is somewhat difficult. It takes a lot of effort and patience to remove a stain on fabric.

How to get rid of the smell of kerosene on clothes?

Preparing the cleaner at home:

• detergent (a product from the arsenal of household chemicals for cleaning stains on dishes);
• one of these shampoos: Apivita Propoline with nettle and honey, Natura Siberica “Volume and Balance”, Desert Essence Organics Lemon tea tree, Shauma 7 herbs, Redken Men Clean Brew, Nivea Men “Extreme Freshness” or another cosmetics for oily hair;
• sodium salt of boric acid;
• facial cleanser.

All components are mixed in equal quantities, the volume depends on the amount of kerosene spilled. The soiled fabric is treated with the prepared product and left for a while.

Then we wash the item by hand. You can use a clothes brush, but after use it will become unusable.

It is important to clean the oil stain completely with this cleanser. The item can then be put in the washing machine.

You cannot dry such clothes. Kerosene is highly flammable and can catch fire.

When the washing cycle is completed, check the area where the kerosene was spilled; if the smell remains a little, you should use another product or wash it 2-3 more times using washing powder.

Removing unpleasant odors using home methods

There are many in various ways, used to remove kerosene odor from fabric. They are used when things are contaminated with diesel fuel or gasoline.

How to remove kerosene smell from clothes?

Popular methods to help clean fabric and rid it of stench:

1. Method 1: white vinegar, baking soda, Eucalyptus oil. Apply baking soda to the stain. Then the item is washed by hand and placed in a washing machine with added powder. After the first wash cycle, add 2 cups of white vinegar to the conditioner compartment ( washing machine will not spoil). Rinse the damaged item in it 2 times. Then turn off the device and let the clothes sour in vinegar water for 2 hours. Then carry out another rinse cycle. When the water has drained, the clothes are wrung out by hand and the procedure is repeated again, but with the addition of 10 ml of eucalyptus oil, it remarkably eliminates the odor. Dry things in the open air.
2. Method 2: baking soda and detergent for dishes (powder). Both ingredients remove kerosene stains and eliminate unpleasant odors. The procedure is repeated until the stench is completely eliminated.
3. Method 3: alcohol. It breaks down carbon bonds in kerosene, making it easier to remove stains from clothes. They used to remove the smell before, now there are more modern methods, however, almost everyone has it in their first aid kit and will help if they don’t have the necessary components. Mix one part alcohol with six parts water and immerse clothes in them for 30–50 minutes. Then wash in the usual way.
4. Method 4: alcohol. High concentrations of alcohol in vodka have the same effect in the fight against kerosene as ethanol. Vodka is mixed with water in equal parts, clothes are placed in the solution for 1 hour.
5. Method 5: ammonia. Like alcohol, this substance can break the carbon bonds in kerosene. Mix 1 part ammonia and 10 parts water to dilute the substance well and not damage the fabric. Keep the item in the mixture for at least 60 minutes, then wash it in the washing machine with good detergent and conditioner.
6. Method 6: Chlorine bleach. Whiteness will help get rid of odor and remove stains, if the type of fabric allows it. It is dissolved in cool water and placed on clothes for 2 minutes. After using bleach, rinse the laundry thoroughly under running water.
7. Method 7: To get rid of diesel smell from your hands and clothes, using mouthwash (any brand works well). This product usually smells like mint, and this plant can quickly cleanse the stench of the mouth and things.
8. Method 8: coffee is a little-known remedy for removing the smell of kerosene, but it is very effective. The thickener is applied to the area where the petroleum product got in and left for 2 hours. It absorbs unpleasant odors, and then things smell nice.
9. Method 9: Lemon juice. This substance is caustic and quickly eats into your hands, which means it will help wash away the smell from clothes. How to wash a stain and remove the stench? First, clean the stain with baking soda. Then pour 1 glass of freshly squeezed lemon juice (more is possible) and a little water into a laundry cup and leave the clothes for several hours. All that remains is to put it in the machine for 1 wash and rinse cycle. After you wash your clothes, your clothes will smell nice.
10. Method 10: mix slaked lime, sawdust, mustard powder and detergent (shampoo, for dishes) in equal amounts. Apply the product to clothing and wash as usual. This method takes a long time. Removing the kerosene smell will take some time, but your favorite things will be saved.
11. Method 11: soap and airing. Regular laundry soap will help remove traces and the smell of kerosene from leather clothes. Rub the item well with it, then rinse and leave the item in a well-ventilated place.

Getting rid of oily liquid is not at all difficult. But still, when working with kerosene, you should be careful or use old things suitable for working with this substance.

Starch, washing powder and ammonia

How to remove the smell of kerosene? There are also methods for removing unpleasant odors from fabric. Starch and washing powder, when used correctly, will quickly get rid of this problem.

1. Potato starch is an excellent remedy for any unpleasant odors. To prepare the product you will also need turpentine and ammonia. The components are mixed in the same amount, 1 tbsp is enough. l. everyone. Apply with a clothes brush, then clean the item. Ammonia a wonderful product with which we have been getting rid of stains for a long time, and turpentine and starch will add an unsurpassed aroma.
2. Items exposed to kerosene are washed with powder. We remove the oil stain by hand, then put the clothes in the machine. Wash at least 3 times. It is better to buy a powder with a deodorizing effect.
3. Ammonia is suitable for light-colored fabrics. It is diluted with water in proportions 1:8, and the item is washed as with regular powder, by hand.

After washing, items are hung on open air, it is advisable that the clothes remain like this for 2-3 days. Kerosene is a volatile substance that dissipates quickly if a slight odor remains.

Bleach Alive Ultra-concentrated destainer/deodorizer

If a person’s work involves constant proximity to kerosene and its use, it is recommended to purchase Alive Ultra oxygen bleach.

It consists of sodium percarbonate and soda ash. The product is absolutely safe and quickly removes stains and odors from kerosene.

Mode of application:

• for a spot with a diameter of 3 cm you need less than 0.5 tsp. oxygen bleach;
• the fabric is moistened, rubbed with this product, then rinsed;
• can be used for machine washing.

Alive Ultra-concentrated destainer/deodorizer costs 882 rubles.

This universal remedy, suitable for removing odors and stains from carpets and rugs. It is also used for the bathroom and toilet.

When caring for fabric stained with kerosene, you must adhere to certain rules.

1. Clean clothes from oil products in a well-ventilated area.
2. Do not perform the procedure near flammable things.
3. Damaged items cannot be washed in a washing machine immediately; the equipment will also acquire an unpleasant odor.
4. The effect of the chosen product should first be tested on an inconspicuous area so as not to spoil the fabric.

If the selected products do not help solve the problem, it is better to seek help from a dry cleaner.

Such establishments employ specialists who can deal with any odors and stains. At the same time, the clothes will look like new. After all, they use proven, professional tools.

About how to compensate for the lack of electrons through the efforts of the brain. And a little more about wooden electrification

Typical realities of Russian dacha construction:

• we build from wood (timber), because it is cheap;
• very few kilowatts are allocated to the site and the quality of the local power grid, in best case scenario, terrible.

Hello tree!

I'm not talking about you, if that's the case.

Indeed, building a house box from timber is quick and inexpensive. You don’t need a strong foundation; you can screw the piles in a day and you’re done.

Then all sorts of things start different difficulties, starting with the shrinkage of the timber (even if it is drying with a photo-video camera), ending with the need to regularly impregnate it with something. The last point begins to dispel the misconception about the environmental friendliness of wood. This finally happens after the timber is insulated from the outside, and, for some reason, not with moss, but with “glassy” material and covered with siding made of environmentally friendly vinyl. However, this doesn’t concern me much.

From the point of view of electrical installation, a log house is one of the most inconvenient and expensive. Round logs, of course, are a complete extreme, but I won’t talk about them for now. Usually they go to the nearest Merlen, buy cable channels, sockets for open installation and call an electrician with a hundred years of experience and all the clearance groups, including viewing the president’s correspondence. Then it turns out that the wires are stuffed into channels like sprat in a barrel, they pass through the walls, in the best case, in a metal hose, etc. “I’ve been doing this for hundreds of years! And even a banker (optionally, the chief local policeman)!” - the usual argument. As if bankers and law enforcement officers have some special knowledge in the field of electrical safety.

The harsh truth of life is that you need good cable channels, with a large cross-section and with accessories such as corners and elbows. The latter, however, affects more appearance, but it has a strong impact. There are few “woodgrain” models and they are not cheap. There are practically no electrical installation products of normal quality for open mounting. If in concrete wall you can reluctantly install something Turkish-Chinese, and at least it won’t catch fire due to poor contact or high current (you also saved on quantity, right? - and now there’s an extension cord), then heating or, worse than that, sparks directly from the wood... In the average SNT, a house burns down once a year.

If you don’t like wandering around familiar chickens and pigs, get ready for the fact that “in a piece of wood” it will cost twice as much for materials more money than in a house made of concrete or brick. And righteous labors will cost more, since there are many more wooden houses than competent and neat electricians.

Hunger

“Elephants walk across Africa,
Antelopes and hippos.
In Africa for free, boys,
If there’s trouble, beat on the tam-tams...” (c) “Forbidden Drummers”

Let's return to our ram.

The house is supposed to have electric heating. For seasonal accommodation it is relatively inexpensive. We calculate: 100 W/m² x 100 m² = 10 kW. That's how much is needed for heating. Someone will say that at -25 °C no one will live there, and this is true. Just like the fact that in terms of heat loss, a typical log house lags far behind the requirements of SNiPs. So it’s better to count with a reserve.

There is another reason. As we remember from the physics course, the released power is proportional to the square of the voltage. Or current. Therefore, if the network is not 220 V, but, say, 20% less (180), then the heater will release approximately one and a half times less. That is, they installed a kilowatt, but it will only produce seven hundred. Therefore, they need to be taken with less resistance. Or, what is the same thing, more power; for example, one and a half kilowatts instead of one.

Now let’s consider what will happen when the local network suddenly becomes normal. Sometimes this even happens to them. In this case, our heaters will consume, correctly, 15 kW.

In addition to heaters, the house will probably also have water heaters. In the example described, there are already three planned - two showers and a kitchen. This is another 3...5 kW.

Advanced people will say that instead of electric convectors when living seasonally, it makes sense to use air conditioners for heating. Indeed, they will eat much less. In our case, you can even “fit” into the power allocated for the house (if it is 10-15 kW). True, the initial costs are higher.

So, a total of approximately 15 kW was spent on heating and water heating. Plus stoves, kettles and other irons. We need to make sure that all these consumers cannot turn on at the same time, that’s all.

Now the other part of the problem, also quite typical. The voltage in the network is not only low; so much so that the kettle does not always boil. It also jumps completely wildly. Normal electrical appliances should not be powered like this. It needs to be stabilized.

Finally, power outages altogether are not uncommon. It’s somehow boring to sit without any light (and dark if it’s evening outside).

In general, the technical specifications are as follows:

• ensure the shutdown of a certain part of consumers, air and water heaters, if the total power consumed by the house is exceeded;
• stabilize the supply voltage in those places where it is essential;
• Lighting and some sockets should be powered from an uninterruptible source.

Excess power is relatively easy to deal with. We use a thing called a “priority load relay”. Here's something like this, for example.

A very functional device that allows you to switch some loads “in a circle”. For example, turn off a couple of convectors. If the consumption is still higher than the specified one, another line is turned off. Not forever, but for a while. Then it turns on. If there is too much again, it disables another group. Comfortable. But it's expensive. Ten thousand at current prices.

Stabilization

Everything is more complicated here. There are quite a few types of stabilizers, which I will not list here. I will only say that most types of relatively cheap stabilizers have serious disadvantages, because of which they can be used with great reservations.

The best in terms of the quality of the output voltage is the so-called online converter. It will always have 220 V (or 230, it doesn’t matter) of the correct shape. One problem... well, you understand what it is. Well, yes, they are expensive.

The good news is that uninterruptible power supplies (also online, not just any) are actually also a stabilizer. There is voltage at the input - a stabilizer, if it disappears - an uninterruptible power supply.

Such sources like overload even less than the power grid. There's no escape, I'm installing another priority relay. True, simpler and cheaper.

All that remains is to figure out what to do in case of a power outage. Taking up half a room with batteries is not at all an option, we don’t have a data center. But the solution is simple: if the pole runs out of electricity, the relay is triggered and turns off some of the consumers, leaving only lighting and some sockets. With a battery of a relatively reasonable size and price, you can last a couple of hours offline.

Oof!

All. There was a lot of text, now there are pictures.

It would be unnecessary to describe in detail where and how contactors and other RCDs are wound. I described the general structure of the solution, then there are always a lot of options, depending on the specific situation.

In this particular case there were a lot of glands, and terminals are provided for ease of connection. So we took a large “type B” shield (you-know-what-manufacturer) with 120 modules.

It seems that it is half empty, but this feeling is deceptive. There are actually a lot of wires, but they were hidden in cable channels.

Personally, I try not to do this, since it’s quite difficult to do anything with an already installed shield. But it turns out neatly.

The result is this:

Now, three years after the invention of this solution, there are other options. However, firstly, it works exactly as intended - with virtually no human intervention. Secondly, although a lot of new automation has appeared during this time, the scheme and its essence are quite relevant.

And the wolves are fed, and the sheep are safe

adv., number of synonyms: 1

Solution (36)

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• - about benefit without harm to another, about compliance with all conditions Wed. Take it in such a way that the petitioner is not offended, and that you are satisfied. Live so that the wolves are fed and the sheep are safe. Ostrovsky. Plum. 3, 3...

  Mikhelson Explanatory and Phraseological Dictionary

• - And the sheep are safe, and the wolves are fed up about benefit without harm to another, about compliance with all conditions. Wed. Take it in such a way that the petitioner is not offended, and that you are pleased. Live so that the wolves are fed and the sheep are safe...

  Michelson Explanatory and Phraseological Dictionary (orig. orf.)

• - See HELP -...
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  IN AND. Dal. Proverbs of the Russian people

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• - see Two lands: both well-fed and...

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• - Not to your heart's content, but to your heart's content. Cm....

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• - 1. Unlock About tyrants, murderers and their victims. Dyadechko 1, 102. 2. Zharg. arm. About teachers and students. . /i> The title of A. N. Ostrovsky’s comedy...
• - who. Mord. 1. About a man who didn’t have enough to eat. 2. About a greedy person. SRGM 1978, 112...

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"and the wolves are fed and the sheep are safe" in books

So that the sheep are safe and the wolves are fed