What style of trousers hides the stomach and hips. Features of constructing a skirt pattern for different types of figures

Contrary to popular belief, girls with a non-standard figure should not wear loose, shapeless clothes. On the contrary, preference should be given to feminine things that can highlight the advantages of the figure and hide its flaws. Such things may include women's skirt. When choosing, it is recommended to take into account the features of the figure, namely, a protruding tummy. Modern models skirts for women with protruding bellies are relevant, but finding a suitable option that fits your size can sometimes be very difficult.

Only a professional designer can tell those with non-standard female figures how to select a wardrobe. This is a pressing question for many ladies who have a non-standard body, excess weight and so on. Of course, you can use patterns and sew everything you need yourself. First you need to understand the styles that are suitable for this.

With a protruding belly

Select skirt models that do not focus on the waist. Basic fashion trends and styles:

Pencil . It is worth focusing on models with a high waist. She visually slims, effectively emphasizing the length of her legs. The pencil should be worn by girls with slender legs and narrow hips. It must be combined with a fitted blouse or T-shirt.
Maxi. As a rule, they are sewn from light, flowing fabrics that do not fit tightly to the body. Due to the length and material, such a skirt slims a woman and does not emphasize the protruding belly. Following the recommendations presented, we can say that chiffon options will suit you perfectly.

With a belly and wide hips

Women often face a second, no less common problem – wide hips. However, these features can also be turned into advantages of the figure if you choose the right clothes and create very Ladies with a belly and wide hips can safely choose:

Tulip . This model will make you more feminine and elegant. Fashionistas can choose items that are the right size for you. In order to emphasize slender legs, you can choose the short “Tulip” style; to create a strict image, choose medium-sized products. Such variations are most often made from dense fabrics.
Trapezoid. This universal model Suitable for absolutely all women, including ladies with curvy figures. Due to the expansion towards the bottom, the protruding belly is hidden, and the girl looks much slimmer. These types of skirts for women with a protruding belly and wide hips have the right structure and can hide all the nuances of your body. The most important thing is to clearly select the sizes so that there is a certain fit. Using patterns, you can sew such a skirt yourself.
Slimming style. The models are sewn from dense fabrics that fit the figure. Slimming skirts are worn under clothing and are designed to model a woman's silhouette.

All presented styles are fundamentally different from each other, so you need to clearly study all aspects of each variety. There are certain types of quality materials that are most often used to make skirts - chiffon and drape. The fabrics differ from each other, so they are used in completely different styles and design solutions.

From the drape

It is customary to sew warm clothes from drape for winter or autumn, as well as formal clothes for office work. This fabric is very dense, so it makes female image more "massive". Many people think they are not suitable overweight women. However, this opinion is erroneous. If you look at photographs from fashion magazines, you will be surprised at how stylish everything looks.

Photos of skirt models:

For creating fashionable style, girls with figure flaws can safely wear maxis made from drape. It will not burden the image, but on the contrary will make it feminine and stylish. Thick fabric perfectly hides body imperfections. In addition, you can buy not only long skirt, but also a classic pencil.

However, in the second case, you need to select a model with a simple geometric pattern, for example, with lines located diagonally.

Chiffon

All lightweight fabrics make the look lighter and more delicate. Chiffon is no exception. Fat ladies should buy flared chiffon skirts. All of the styles discussed have certain advantages and disadvantages. You can independently make models of skirts for women with a protruding belly using patterns.

This is not the first season that knee-length models made of corrugated chiffon have been particularly popular. They are recommended for ladies with non-standard shapes. You need to combine it with a fitted top in a contrasting color.

Photos of skirts:

Two-layer chiffon options look very impressive. The first layer is sewn from dense dark fabrics, the length of this layer is just above the knee. The second layer is sewn from translucent chiffon; its length should be maximum. Such originality will hide all flaws and make yours stylish and memorable.

Made from knitwear

Materials of this design are often used to hide all the imperfections of your body and highlight best sides. You should choose only skirt models for women, made from thick fabrics that perfectly support your body. IN in this case The drape fits perfectly. IN Lately this part women's wardrobe began to be in incredible demand. She emphasizes perfectly female figure and allows you to hide excess weight.

Sew from knitwear different types things, but those with non-standard figures need to choose only loose-fitting models. Their length can be up to the knee or slightly below. They can be decorated with flounces and frills at the bottom. Each girl chooses something interesting for herself. This together helps her decide the necessary details wardrobe

When choosing, you need to take into account not only styles, but also important nuances:

You can’t choose a skirt with a low waist; it will highlight your figure flaws. Therefore, the style should be with a medium, or better yet high, waist.
Plain variations will look more impressive. For creating bright images you can choose varieties with fine interesting drawing. But you should avoid styles with large flowers or other patterns. In addition, it is better to purchase a model with a minimum amount of fittings and decorative elements.
A good way to hide imperfections is: denim, thick knitwear, wool, drape. Corduroy and suede skirts, on the contrary, do not need to be chosen.

It is very difficult to find skirt models for women with a protruding belly and narrow hips; in this case, you can sew what you need yourself.

A protruding belly usually appears with age (or pregnancy) and, of course, requires adjustment of the pattern.

A protruding belly is an additional volume of the body, and in a specific place. This means that you need to design additional fabric in this specific place, that is, expand the pattern in the area of the protruding abdomen. By what amount? To do this, you need to measure your figure.

The skirt pattern is based on horizontal line waist. Is the waistline horizontal on the figure in question? Most likely no. But in order to make sure of this, you need to measure the distance from the waist line to the floor.

Adjusting the skirt pattern

And so, first of all, we take measurements to determine the position of the waist line.

We tie a lace at the waist along the most concave areas.

Measure the distance from the lace at the waist to the floor: back, front, right side, left side.

Compare the obtained values

A figure with a protruding belly is characterized by a raised waistline in the front.

The values of the obtained measurements can be, for example, the following:

Front length Dp = 102 cm
Back length Dz = 100 cm
Side right length Dbp = 101cm
Left side length Dbl = 101 cm

Analysis of the obtained measurements shows that:

The figure is symmetrical at the hips, since the length from the right side is equal to the length from the left side Dbp = Dbl;
- the back and side waist lines are proportional to each other, because Dz is 1 cm larger than Db;
- the waist line in front is too high by 2 cm, because for a proportionally folded figure, Dp = Dz, and in our example, Dp is 2 cm greater than Dz. It is by these 2 cm that you need to increase the front panel of the skirt in the abdominal area.

Let's start changing the pattern

On the front panel of the skirt we draw two auxiliary lines cut:

horizontal - in the middle between the waist and hip lines (or at a distance of 9-10 cm below the waist line)
vertical - at a distance of 1/3 of the width of the front panel from the middle line or through a dart.

Cut the pattern along these lines.
Central top part raise the front panel up by the amount of adjustment (in our example it is 2 cm). We position the upper side part so that the edges of the horizontal cut converge at a point along the side cut, and the lower points of the vertical cut are at the same level.

The length of the front panel has been lengthened, which is good. But at the same time, the opening of the front dart has increased, this is bad, since for figures with a protruding belly, the size of the front dart is minimal or absent altogether. How to properly distribute darts is a topic for a separate interesting conversation, and we will definitely talk about this, but later, but for now we transfer the size of the front dart completely or partially to the side sections (to the side dart).

The contours of the modified pattern are outlined in blue.
That's all for today. Next time we’ll look at how to change a dress pattern for a figure with a protruding belly.

Dress pattern adjustments

1. Define true position waist lines.
2. Determine the amount by which the middle front needs to be lengthened.
3. Draw cut lines, cut the pattern and move the pattern pieces apart to the required size.
4. We specify the size and location of the darts.

Now let’s look at each item separately, taking into account the adjustment of the dress

1. In addition to determining the position of the waist, it would not be superfluous to measure the level of the most protruding point of the abdomen (from the point of the base of the neck to the most protruding point of the abdomen, see the figure on the left below)

The base of the neck point is the point where the neck ends and the shoulder begins

2. The amount of front extension is determined in the same way as for the skirt.

3. But the cut lines are drawn slightly differently.
If we have measured the VTJ, then from the top of the shoulder section of the front we put the VTJ value down and draw a horizontal cut line.
Vertical line We make the cut at a distance of 1/3 of the front width from the middle line down from the horizontal line.

Cut the pattern along these lines. Omit middle part front down by the required amount. In this case, the side part will turn at an angle and a conical expansion will occur along the side cut. Let's cut off this extension.

But you can leave the extension, only in this case you will need to add such an extension along the side cut of the back. And keep in mind that the silhouette of the dress will change somewhat. Perhaps this is for the better; the slight flare disguises the bulging belly well.

Please note that the bottom line of the front is formed by a smooth convex line.
In fact, it turned out that we simply lengthened the middle part of the front and that’s it.

And this option is also possible. In this case, the dress acquires a cut-off side. The bottom line of the front remains straight, and the excess length of the side cut (acquired after lengthening the pattern) is removed into the dart.

In this case, there was not just a lengthening of the middle front, but the creation of a bulge on the stomach. Elegant and beautiful.

Wishing you creative inspiration, dear needlewomen!

You can look fashionable, elegant and beautiful with any type of figure. The main thing is to know the features of each type. And the secrets of clothing design will help us skillfully hide flaws and highlight advantages.
In this article I will tell and show some features of designing skirts for four different figures.

Creating a skirt pattern for a figure with a narrow waist and low hips

the side dart solution is 0.25∑V
back dart solution 0.2∑V
the solution of the first front dart is 0.15∑V
the solution of the second front dart is 0.2∑V

After these calculations, be sure to check whether the sum of the solutions of the five tucks is equal to the value ∑B.

Now I’ll tell you about the location of each dart and the length.

We place the first back dart at a distance of 9 - 10 cm from the middle seam (or fold) of the skirt. We place the second back dart between the first and side darts. The length of the back darts is 12 - 14 cm.

The location of the first front dart is similar to the location of the first back one - at a distance of 9 - 10 cm from the middle of the front half of the skirt. And we draw the second front one between the first front and the side seam. The length of the front darts is 10 - 12 cm.

We decorate the darts with beautiful convex lines.

Creating a skirt pattern for a figure with a large protrusion of the abdomen

When creating a skirt pattern for this type of figure, the ratio of the width of the front and back halves of the skirt changes. That is, the location of the side seam will be slightly different than when constructing a skirt for a typical figure. In this case, BB2 = (Sb + Pb) / 2 + 2.
As you remember, when creating a skirt pattern for a typical (standard) figure BB2 = (Sb + Pb) / 2 – 1. The width of the back half of the skirt was 1 cm less than the width of the front half.
When constructing a skirt for a figure with a large belly, the side seam, on the contrary, shifts towards the front half.

lateral is 0.4 × (0.5∑V)
second rear 0.6 × (0.5∑V)
first back solution 0.35∑V
front solution 0.15∑V

Also be sure to check whether the sum of the solutions of these four darts is equal to the value ∑B.

And about the location of the darts.
We also place the side one in the side seam. But its length is now 15 - 16 cm.
We draw the first back dart at a distance of 9 - 10 cm from the middle of the back half of the skirt, that is, from the TN line.
We build the second back in the middle between the first back and the side.
The length of both rear grooves is 16 - 17 cm.
We place the front dart at a distance of 12 - 13 cm from the middle of the front half of the skirt, that is, from the T1H1 line.
The length of the front dart is 10 - 12 cm.

We decorate the sides of the darts with beautiful smooth lines.

Creating a skirt pattern for a figure with a developed part of the hip

One of the features of constructing a skirt pattern for this type of figure is the distribution of the position of the darts, taking into account the protrusion of the hips. We place the darts in the places of the largest convexities. The size of the dart openings also depends on the body type.

We distribute the amount of dart solutions between four darts. The side dart, measuring 0.55∑B, similar to the previous version, is divided into two: the side and the second back. The ratio of these darts will be as follows:

lateral is equal to (0.4 - 0.6) × (0.55∑V)
second rear (0.4 - 0.6) × (0.55∑V)

As you noticed, there are no exact meanings for these darts. We choose ourselves, depending on the characteristics of the physique. The main thing is that the sum of the side and the second rear is equal to 0.55∑V.

The opening of the first back dart will be equal to 0.3∑V
Front solution - 0.15∑V

Here we can also change the ratios taking into account the characteristics of the figure. The main thing is that the sum of the solutions of these four tucks is equal to the value of ∑B.

We choose the position of the darts and their length arbitrarily, in accordance with the body type.
The length range of the rear darts is 13 - 16 cm, the front 10 - 12 cm, the side 12 - 16 cm.

We decorate the sides of the darts with beautiful arched lines.

Creating a skirt pattern for a figure with a large protrusion of the buttocks

The distribution of the amount of tuck solutions is made between four tucks in the following proportions:

side dart 0.35 - 0.4 ∑B
front 0.15 - 0.2 ∑V
two rear ones with a solution of 0.4 - 0.5 ∑V. This means that the solution of each back is equal to (0.4 - 0.5 ∑V) / 2.

The distribution of the position of the darts and their length is arbitrary, in accordance with the body type of the figure. The main thing is that the darts are directed to the places of the largest protrusions.

I wish you all success in sewing! Emphasize your individuality with beautiful, neatly sewn clothes.