What is the collar called? What types of collars are there? Set-in collars to closed necks

Types of collars for women's coats

Surprisingly, there is a unified classification of collars outerwear(despite the fact that this part is over 500 years old!) still not there. Some divide them according to the method of combining with the neckline into set-in and seamless, others according to the type of fastener into open and closed, others are generally perplexed: “How can you combine a hundred into some groups and classes? different styles, where each collar is a small masterpiece of tailoring?! The most general “breakdown” is given in textbooks on cutting and sewing: “Models of outerwear can have stand-up, stand-up, flat, jacket and fancy types of collars.” Let's stop there.

When we reach the top, we insert the needle into the material, lift the leg and position it to stitch along the corner. We have stepped, and we make exactly one move of the needle - important stage! We leave the needle in the material, raise the leg and guide the sewing material along a line from the corner.

The whole trick is based on the fact that he makes one stroke of the needle through the corner. Thanks to this treatment we will reduce the tension of the material at the very end as soon as we roll the material to the other side.

In the toes, we distribute the stitches on two sides and place an angle on the other side. We tip the tip when helping with something sharp, like scissors.

You will have the opportunity to meet him several times in the last James Bonde. Be careful, however, that the English collar must be worn with a thin tie. A tie that is too thick can create a completely unsightly bead all over your neck.

This is a very open neck, unlike the French and English collars, so it will suit long faces. Because of its wide opening, it will also have the privilege to slightly approach the shoulders of the shoulder a little fragile or will come to enlarge the neck too well.

1. Stand collars

"Racks" were the first collars to appear on outerwear. Standing collars give products a strict, laconic look, which is why they are popular in uniforms and office clothes. Thanks to high degree Clothing with this type of collar is closed; it is popular in products for the cold season: jackets, coats, windbreakers.

It should be worn with a fairly wide knot, a windsor or double windsor would be very suitable for this type of collar.

Indeed, its “medium” opening allows you to slightly lengthen the face. It can be worn with a simple knot if your tie is wide enough.

Fully scattered floor or far cutout. This is an extreme cutout neck that opens 180°, it is very elegant and chic but suitable for people with a rather long face, it will also allow you to shrug your shoulders more seriously than with a cutout neck.

Today, a stand-up collar is used primarily for sewing outerwear, and its height varies between 2-5 centimeters. The most popular types racks: “mandarin”, “collar” and “pipe”.

"Mandarin" (aka "Chinese" and "Mao")

Already from the name it is clear that this collar came to us from Imperial China, a country with a strict hierarchical ladder and an equally strict dress code. "Tangerines" Here for a long time called officials and civil servants wearing suits with a short, tight-fitting stand-up collar, the edges of which either touch in the middle or slightly overlap each other.

Thanks to the wide opening, you will have the opportunity to create a beautiful knot. The difficulty with this type of collar is not to reveal the tie connection. Yes, according to Sartoring culture, this is good taste, so as not to reveal the tails of his tie on the collar, the knot should always fill the hole, and both ends should appear, without allowing a glimpse of the pancake ice. A style exercise difficult to master this type of collar!

You obviously don't have to respect this "rule" and Sartorian culture is sometimes very extreme. “Learn the rules like the pros so you can break them like an artist.” Learn the rules like the pros so you can break them down like an artist.

Women will surely like a coat with such a collar. knowledgeable in the subtle beauty of the East or those who prefer minimalist clothing. And in men's collections“Mao” - as a symbol of authoritarianism and power - is most often found on brutal picots, strict uniforms like those of Napoleonic marshals and laconic denim jackets.

To learn how to get around them better, you need to be stylish man. The big question of the day is: is it possible to be stylish while being stylish? We've seen major business passes together. The button or buttoned collar originated from the Americans, but more specifically from polo players who wore shirts with buttons in the chest, they prevented the collar from straightening out and came to hit the player's face. According to legend, while playing polo, John Brooks had an idea democratize and popularize this type of collar by releasing American collar shirts.

"Clamp"

And this is greetings from the recent Soviet past. "Yoke" was born from English a knitted sweater, more precisely from its neck (this fashion came to the USSR in the 60s). At first he was very reminiscent of his ancestors - he was knitted, soft and tall. Later he began to sew from other materials: cashmere, wool, satin.

This is a more casual collar than the previous one, so it is not recommended in the business world. However, you can wear it with a simple knot. Quite similar to the English collar to avoid elongated faces.

The difference is at the collar level, the club collar rests on the leg of the collar. The Claudine collar has the peculiarity of not resting on any leg of the collar and therefore sits directly on the shirt, which is normal since women do not wear a tie. In fact, it was part of the student uniform of the time.

“Homutik,” as this type is affectionately called by needlewomen and fashion designers, softens the lines of a classic coat and gives it a touch of charming femininity. IN last years The cowl collar increasingly prefers to perform solo, becoming a separate item of women's wardrobe.

"Pipe" and its variety "Funnel"

The same as the “collar”, but made of stiffer fabric, without numerous cozy folds and waves.

However, it is very interesting, these rounded corners soften the face. So it can be fun to create a contrast if you have very boxy features with this type of collar. Wear it with your binding preference.

Mandarin collar - collar Chinese origin. The special thing about this is that it does not have a flap, only a leg collar. It is very often confused with the officer collar, the difference between the two passes is that the officer collar is equipped with a button, while on the mao collar, it does not exist.

2. Stand-up

They consist of two parts: a hidden stand and a visible pointed one or, conversely, rounded departure.

Despite the variety of stand-up collars (“kent”, “butterfly”, “vario”, “tab”, etc.), only one model is usually used for sewing coats - “shark”. Its peculiarity is its widely spaced (like the mouth of a predator) departure corners. So wide that they form an obtuse angle. Other types of stand-up collars adorn men's and women's shirts.

Collar height and tip length

It's a casual collar worn securely without a tie. Regarding the height of this, if you have a long neck, make sure it goes up high enough so that the whole is harmonious.

It is important to approach the subject of the neck. The collar should appear in the middle of your neck, underneath it you will get the impression of a giraffe's neck and above that your neck does not exist, which is obviously funny in both cases.

3. Flat-lying

Purely women's collars, which were brought into fashion... by a man. The cutesy king of England Henry III was passionate about dressing up. And also perfume yourself, wear white stockings and curl your hair. One day, the king considered that the popular “millstones” were very heavy and not elegant enough and ordered a camisole with a light lace collar to be made for himself. Well, what the head of state wears, everyone wears. Later, such collars began to be sewn from satin and velvet, pinched with a brooch and tied with a ribbon for greater beauty.

As for the length of the tips, it depends on your face, if your face is small, aim for the collar quite small so as not to distort it. If your face is quite wide, head towards the longer aisle. Trust the photos in this article, Boateng wears a shirt with the correct leg collar height, although it may be a little taller. Ralph Lauren has an almost non-existent neck, so it was important to choose a shirt with a fairly small collar.

It is important to remove them when you wash your shirt, remember to return them when the shirt is almost dry. When ironing, remove them to prevent the iron from marking the fabric in this area. Finally, at the time of purchase new shirt. Set the plastic collar strips aside; they will prevent the collar from collapsing later, especially if you store shirts on top of each other in your closet.

Today, finding outerwear with a flat collar is a great success. These coat models are beautiful, a little naive, incredibly feminine, but not very practical (they cover the neck poorly), so they are supplied to stores in limited quantities.

4. Jackets

These are collars that have switched to outerwear from formal suits, men's jackets and tailcoats.

Here at the shirt collar there are no secrets for you! According to one collar, the length of the neck is chosen - the longer the collar, the higher the collar. Conversely, a shorter neck means a shorter collar and lower stand. According to the second school, the size of the face decides. And so people with a thicker face and chin will look best in a classic, slim and so-called collared shirt. club. For men of thin and long sleeves A collar with wide ends is best.

It is best to take into account the rules proclaimed by both of them. If you are still unsure whether your collar is appropriate, contact a trusted person. You can also photograph several types of shirts and then cool down to see where you look best.

"English"(more often found under the name “classic”)

The most popular and perfect type of collar. Strict and elegant like an English aristocrat, he has been out of fashion and time for three centuries in a row, it’s not for nothing that almost all the coats of the President of Russia are decorated with this respectable collar!

East and West are fighting for the right to call it their own. The first claim that such national Chinese robes had the shape of a collar, the latter are sure that "Schalke"- an invention of the Byzantines, who have long loved to decorate the sides of outerwear with fur. From these disputes, only one thing is known for sure: in the old days, only a rich and noble person could afford a shawl collar. (The poor preferred more practical styles).

The most "formal" - broken collar shirts are worn exclusively for tuxedos and tailors, which is the most elegant ceremony and gala. Flying is absolutely necessary for this type of collar. Characteristic of the Italian collar is the wide leg spacing, so its tip is hidden under the lapel of the jacket. A shirt with such a collar cannot be worn without a tie. Its absence causes an empty, unassembled plane to form under the neck. Shirts with Italian collars are considered formal and businesslike.

The most popular and, moreover, the most universal type collar This is good for people who don't like clothes that get noticed. A shirt with such a collar can be worn without a tie on a daily basis, so that you can work in the evening. It also has this plus that it doesn't need a tie with a specific knot - everyone will fit.

"Apache"

A strongly open rectangular collar, vaguely reminiscent of a guy in shape.. It was popular in Russia in the 60s of the last century. In Europe, he has been known for a long time, but is considered the collar of rebellious youth and hooligans - Apaches. These young men from the land of noble wines and intricate streets wore such wide collars to show their independence, disdain to a “noose” tie, because it was simply impossible to wear it with an “apache” shirt!

From the buttons that attach the collar to the shirt. This type of collar has interesting story. The idea came from players who were holding a collar in a collar that was broken during the game. Brooks was inspired by this and decided to expand his shirt range. The collar button is unique because it looks good with or without a tie. The tie version is considered sporty and informal, although Lately it became acceptable even at work. It is important that the collar buttons are always secured.

The club collar, or rounded collar, is associated with England, the stock exchange and banking. As the name suggests, it works best on casual shirts. The club collar matches perfectly with the long narrow knot. We don't wear a tie with a backup shirt! It looks great with or without a jacket.

5. Fantasy

This group can safely include everything that is not included in the previous four. Fancy collars rarely stay “afloat” for a long time; these are, as a rule, trendy models that are worth purchasing in two cases:

1) You like to frequently update your wardrobe and be on trend.

2) You already have a pair classic coats and not enough original style for a special occasion.

The same is best sewn when I have a carefully designed procedure for each step. What is the most a big problem with corners? In the corner of the corner the material is quite dense. The same tips can be used for right and oblique angles, but there is less tension in the material and it is quite easy to get beautiful angles without special tricks. Of course you will find much more use these methods - pillows or belts in a dress. I really like using this marker for small projects because it is precise and doesn't pull on the material.

If the material is light or stretchy, we recommend trigger stitching. This fleece is more stable because it does not extend along the thread. If we use a narrow 1cm trigger strip and aim the thread so that it runs along the line we have drawn, the fabric will not stretch when sewing. Not from above, so as not to deform it with glue. We start sewing along the marked line. We are moving towards a point that marks our peak.

Surprisingly, there is still no unified classification of outerwear collars (despite the fact that this detail is more than 500 years old!). Some divide them according to the method of combining them with the neck into set-in and seamless, others according to the type of fastener into open and closed, others are generally perplexed: “How can you combine a hundred different styles into some groups and classes, where each collar is a small masterpiece of tailoring art? ! The most general “breakdown” is given in textbooks on cutting and sewing: “Models of outerwear can have stand-up, stand-up, flat, jacket and fancy types of collars.” Let's stop there.

When we reach the top, we insert the needle into the material, lift the leg and position it to stitch along the corner. We have stepped, and we are making exactly one move of the needle - an important stage! We leave the needle in the material, raise the leg and guide the sewing material along a line from the corner.

1. Stand collars

"Stand-up" collars were the first collars to appear on outerwear. In the 13th century, they were narrow strips of fabric - no more than two centimeters - on Burgundian cloaks and jackets. Jackets at that time were called insulated trapezoidal jackets of knights, worn under armor. From the 15th century, standing collars began to grow taller and wider, resulting in the appearance of such phantasmagoric styles as the “millstone”. It is said that the hem of this starched pleated collar was so cruel that without removing it it was impossible to reach the mouth with one's hand. But I wanted to eat. Therefore, the Italians, who had a special love for the “millstone,” had to invent the fork.

Today, the stand is used primarily for sewing outerwear, and its height varies between 2-5 centimeters. The most popular types of racks are “mandarin”, “clamp” and “pipe”.

"Mandarin" (aka "Chinese" and "Mao")

Already from the name it is clear that this collar came to us from Imperial China, a country with a strict hierarchical ladder and an equally strict dress code. “Mandarins” have long been the name given to officials and civil servants who wear suits with a short, tight-fitting stand-up collar, the edges of which either touch in the middle or slightly overlap each other.

A coat with such a collar will surely appeal to women who know a lot about the subtle beauty of the East or who prefer clothes in a minimalist style. And in men’s collections, “Mao” - as a symbol of authoritarianism and power - is most often found on brutal picots, strict uniforms like Napoleonic marshals and laconic denim jackets.

To learn how to get around them better, you need to be a stylish man. The big question of the day is: is it possible to be stylish while being stylish? We've seen major business passes together. The button or buttoned collar originated from the Americans, but more specifically from polo players who wore shirts with buttons in the chest, they prevented the collar from straightening out and came to hit the player's face. According to legend, while playing polo, John Brooks had an idea democratize and popularize this type of collar by releasing American collar shirts.

"Clamp"

And this is greetings from the recent Soviet past. The “collar” was born from an English knitted sweater, or rather from its neck (this fashion came to the USSR in the 60s). At first he was very reminiscent of his ancestors - he was knitted, soft and tall. Later he began to sew from other materials: cashmere, wool, satin.

“Homutik,” as this type is affectionately called by needlewomen and fashion designers, softens the lines of a classic coat and gives it a touch of charming femininity. In recent years, the cowl collar increasingly prefers to appear solo, becoming a separate item of women's wardrobe.

“Pipe” and its variety “Funnel”

The same as the “collar”, but made of stiffer fabric, without numerous cozy folds and waves.

2. Stand-up

They consist of two parts: a hidden stand and a visible pointed or, conversely, rounded extension.

3. Flat-lying

Purely women's collars, which were brought into fashion... by a man. The cutesy King of England, Henry III, was passionate about dressing up. And also perfume yourself, wear white stockings and curl your hair. One day, the king considered that the popular “millstones” were very heavy and not elegant enough and ordered a camisole with a light lace collar to be made for himself. Well, what the head of state wears, everyone wears. Later, such collars began to be sewn from satin and velvet, pinched with a brooch and tied with a ribbon for greater beauty.

4. Jackets

These are collars that have switched to outerwear from formal suits, men's jackets and tailcoats.

English collar

The most popular and perfect coats of all time are coats with an English collar similar to these models. Strict and elegant like an English aristocrat, he has been out of fashion and time for three centuries in a row; it’s not for nothing that almost all the coats of the President of Russia are decorated with this respectable collar!
Appearing first as a detail men's clothing, the English collar became, and still remains, an integral part business style, for both men and women. He is gaining more and more fans due to the fact that he fits well into any dress code. It comes in many types women's clothing: coats, dresses, blouses, which allows you to diversify your office wardrobe. If we talk about a coat with such a collar, then to successfully complete it, it is recommended to wear a turtleneck under it or cover your neck beautifully with a scarf, but do not leave it open, especially in cold weather.

Schalke

East and West are fighting for the right to call it their own. The former claim that the national Chinese robes had a similar collar shape, the latter are confident that the “Schalke” was an invention of the Byzantines, who have long loved to decorate the sides of outerwear with fur. From these disputes, only one thing is known for sure: in the old days, only a rich and noble person could afford a shawl collar. (The poor preferred more practical styles).

"Apache"

A strongly open rectangular collar, vaguely reminiscent of a guy in shape. It was popular in Russia in the 60s of the last century. In Europe, he has been known for a long time, but is considered the collar of rebellious youth and hooligans - Apaches. These young people from the country of noble wines and intricate streets wore such wide collars to show their independence, their disdain for the “noose” tie, because it was simply impossible to wear it with an apache shirt!

5. Fantasy

2) You already have a couple of classic coats and are missing an original style for a special occasion.

Need a coat with an unusual collar? Pay attention to the following new items from the online store “PurchaseLux”: