Counter pleats on the skirt calculation. The process of sewing a skirt with counter pleats.

Pleated skirts are unlikely to ever go out of style. They are a great addition to any wardrobe, as you can have several with just one skirt. different images, combining it with all kinds of blouses, T-shirts or cardigans. The style we will be talking about visually increases the volume of the hips, gradually expanding down from the waist, which means it is ideal for owners of narrow hips, complemented by wide shoulders and ample breasts. But this model has no age restrictions. Well, except for its length. It is also important to note that for girls with curvy figures it is better to choose wide folds, as small ones make them look fat.

There is no need to create a special drawing for this skirt. The folds are marked directly along the face of the fabric with chalk or a piece of soap. That's where they are laid. To calculate the width of the required material, you need to multiply the waist size by 3, add 4 cm for a loose fit and 15 cm for adjustments according to the figure and seam allowances.

Consider the option of size 44/46 with the following measurements: waist size - 72 cm, skirt length 72 cm. The width of the fabric from which the skirt will be created is 120 cm. We cut the product strictly along the warp thread, otherwise distortion may occur in the process.

Let's find out what lengths we need. To do this, add 6 cm to the length of the skirt, of which 5 cm will be spent on hemming the bottom, and 1 cm on sewing on the belt. We get a length equal to 78 cm. So, you need two identical pieces of fabric 78 cm long and 120 cm wide, which we combine into one. The seam should be overcast and ironed. After this, we lay the fabric face up and draw a chalk line indicating the waist. To do this, step back 1 cm from the top. Folds are marked along this line.

The bottom of the future skirt is processed by stitching and bending the material, not reaching 5-6 cm to the edge. Now you need to decide on the width and depth of the folds on the skirt for the case when their number is 8. The waist circumference should be divided by 8 and we get a value equal to 9 cm. Now from the total width of the fabric - 240 cm, subtract seam allowances - 4 cm and divide result on the number of folds. We get the size of the fold depth - 20 cm.

The markings are made from right to left along the front side of the future skirt. First, you should set aside 2 cm - this will be the so-called seam line. Then mark a segment equal in length to the depth counter fold divided by 4 - 5 cm. From this point, mark the width (9 cm) and then the depth (20 cm) of the fold. A segment equal to the depth should be divided by 2 and mark the middle of the opposite fold. Alternating width and depth, the entire canvas is marked. At the end of the marking, ¼ of the depth and 2 cm for the seam are again set aside. Through all the designated points we draw lines vertically down. The outer fold should be placed in the middle of the depth exclusively along the grain thread. Having completed the marking, we baste the folds along the same line. At the end of the basting, the resulting width is measured, from which the waist measurement is subtracted and the resulting result is divided by the number of folds. The figure obtained during the calculation is added to the size of the depth of each fold, along the segment indicating the waist.

Having finished working with the formation of folds, you should stitch the side seam. It is not completely stitched; a section equal to the length of the zipper used for the fastener is left unsewn. Now you should finish processing the bottom of the skirt. Then sew the fastener into the side seam. Sew a belt and a button to it to the product. Or make a loop on the belt and sew on a button. Iron the finished skirt. When ironing, do not forget that the folds of this model are soft, which means there is no need to iron them.

Despite the global popularity of trousers in a variety of cuts, fashion designers by no means overlooked women's skirts. Thanks to creative imagination, interest in traditional clothing is constantly maintained. The skirt is endowed with the miraculous ability to transform any girl into a real beauty, which guarantees close attention from the opposite sex. This is due to the wide variety of styles and their multiple variations. A special place in the model line is occupied by a skirt with bow folds. This wonderful thing is familiar to every woman since childhood, because long years was a constant attribute school life Soviet children.

Who should wear skirts with bow pleats?

Scotland is considered to be the birthplace of the lush style. After all, it was there that kilts were sewn - skirts with circular pleats for men. Loose clothing did not create obstacles for soldiers during combat operations and was very comfortable when riding. Women liked the loose skirt, and they quickly adopted it new fashion from men.

A special style with soft folds creates additional volume on the hips, helping to balance the proportions of the body and bring them as close as possible to the ideal type " hourglass" It is recommended to be worn by people with broad shoulders and a full bust. In addition, voluminous bow folds successfully disguise narrow hips.

This model is shown for overweight women. The tight-fitting belt clearly defines the waistline, visually bringing the figure closer to the optimal parameters. Soft counter folds are not at all contraindicated for other types of female constitution. For example, a model without a belt and with a high waist helps to visually increase height. A skirt in which the folds are stitched from the top edge a few centimeters down will look especially good. The result is the appearance of a wide, one-piece belt that favorably emphasizes the waistline.

The model with wide bow pleats is suitable for women of any age who prefer classic style clothes. In photos from modeling catwalks, it is clearly visible that the length of the product is most often made at knee level or slightly below it.

Selecting the desired folds

There are several types of tucks that are placed along the waist line:

• unilateral- having a single direction;

• counter- ironed towards each other;

• bow- one-sided folds, ironed in different directions.

In addition, the pleats on the skirt can be wide or narrow, group or asymmetrical. There is no limit to the number of tucks on clothing. They start at the waist and smooth down to the hem. Thanks to this, the skirt acquires special plasticity and amplitude when moving.

What is the best material to make a skirt from?

To ensure that the model holds its shape well, it is recommended to pay attention to the fabric. It should be soft and not very dense. For example, a circle skirt with bow pleats works well from cotton or silk fabric. Care should be taken with designs to avoid severe distortion of the prints. It is better to choose jacquard fabric with printed thread. The coupon pattern looks very good on a pleated skirt horizontal line. However, it should be remembered that such a pattern visually reduces height and expands the shape.

A half-sun skirt with bow pleats looks good on thin woolen fabrics mixed with synthetic additives. Heavy velvet is especially popular now, making a great floor-length evening dress.

Since bow folds look best when they have greater depth and width, fabric for sewing the product must be purchased three times more than for classic two-seam models. The bell skirt style with bow pleats is not used very often by fashion designers, so such an outfit will not be trivial. And if you put your hand into creating clothes, it will not only be a manifestation of individuality, but also a significant economic benefit for the family budget.

What to wear with clothes with bow pleats

Very relevant in the cold season warm sweaters all kinds of styles and textures. Cozy knitted item Pairs perfectly with a soft bow pleated skirt. Elongated sweater models are in perfect harmony with models with a yoke. The additional insert perfectly outlines the line of the hips, obtaining further expansion downwards due to deep smells.

For petite girls with a slender build, a pleated skirt with an elastic band is perfect. On top, the ensemble is successfully complemented by a light blouse or sleeveless T-shirt paired with a short jacket. You should definitely wear it on your feet. high shoes boats.

A skirt is a very successful wardrobe item, because by complementing it with various blouses, blouses and tops, you can always create a new outfit and new image. There are a great many styles of this type of clothing, but pleated skirts are especially popular this season.

The skirt style with bow pleats creates additional volume on the hips, helps balance proportions and creates an hourglass silhouette. You should pay attention to this skirt model if you have narrow hips, ample breasts and broad shoulders.

For this style of skirt, a pattern drawing is not made, but calculations are made directly on the fabric from the front side (Fig. 1). For a skirt with bow pleats of fabric, three hip circumferences are required in width with an allowance of 4 cm for a loose fit plus 15-20 cm for seams and fit.
This calculation is based on conventional measurements: waist circumference 72cm, side skirt length 72cm. Fabric width -120cm.

Cutting and sewing.
1. We cut the fabric pieces to 78 cm, which makes the length of the skirt 72 cm plus 1 cm for processing the belt and plus 5 cm for the hem allowance for the skirt: 72 + 1 + 5 = 78 cm.
2. Let's connect the canvases to the same width. We sew the seam or seams (depending on the width of your fabric) and press them.
3. We will process the bottom of the skirt (hem allowance) not reaching the edges 5-10cm.
4. Lay the fabric face up and measure 1 cm from the top edge of the fabric downwards and draw a waist line across the entire panel.
5. Mark the hip line on the fabric (see section “Cutting Basics” - Taking measurements).
6. Let's determine the desired number of bow folds and, depending on the number, determine their width and depth.
For example, our style has 8 bow pleats. To do this, you need to divide the waist circumference of 72 cm by the number of bow folds: 72: 8 = 9 cm (width of the bow fold).
The width of the panel for the skirt is 120 x 2 cuts - 4 (for seams) = 236 cm.
236 - 72 (waist circumference) = 164cm (must be folded).
164: 8 = 20cm (depth of each opposing fold).
7. Mark the folds. From right to left along the hip line, measure 2cm for the side seam. From the seam line we measure 1/4 of the depth of the counter fold: 20: 4 = 5 cm.
8. We measure the width of the bow 9 cm, then the depth of the counter fold 20 cm. Divide this depth in half and determine the middle of the counter fold.
9. Thus, we calculate the entire width of the fabric, measuring sequentially the width of the bow and the depth of the folds. At the end of the grinding, measure 1/4 of the depth of the fold and 2 cm for the seam. Through the obtained points we draw vertical lines from the waistline to the hemline.
10. Reduce the depth of the folds along the bottom line by 1.5 cm on each side. Connect the resulting points with the points on the hip line. The drawn lines will be the outer folds of the folds.

11. We notice the folds. The outer fold of the fold along the hip line should lie in the middle of the depth of the fold strictly along the longitudinal thread.

12. Measure the resulting width of the skirt along the waistline with folds in place.

13. Subtract your waist circumference from this number. Divide the resulting difference by the number of folds.
14. By the resulting amount, increase the depth of the folds along the waist line, gradually reducing them “to nothing” to the hip line (Fig. 2).
15. Stitch the side seam, leaving the area for the fastener (the length of the zipper) unstitched.
16. We process the remainder of the hem allowance for the skirt.
17. We process the fastener in the left side seam.
18. We process the waist line of the skirt with a stitched belt.
19. Ironing ready product. Considering that the folds in this style are soft, we do not iron them.

The style of the skirt creates additional volume on the hips, helps balance proportions and create an hourglass silhouette. You should pay attention to this skirt model if you have narrow hips, ample breasts and broad shoulders.
For this style of skirt, a pattern drawing is not made, but calculations are made directly on the fabric from the front side (Fig. 1). For a skirt with bow pleats of fabric, three hip circumferences are required in width with an allowance of 4 cm for a loose fit plus 15-20 cm for seams and fit.
This calculation is based on conventional measurements: waist circumference 72cm, side skirt length 72cm. Fabric width -120cm.


Fig.1.
Cutting and sewing.
1. We cut the fabric pieces to 78 cm, which makes the length of the skirt 72 cm plus 1 cm for processing the belt and plus 5 cm for the hem allowance for the skirt: 72 + 1 + 5 = 78 cm.
2. Let's connect the canvases to the same width. We sew the seam or seams (depending on the width of your fabric) and press them.
3.We will process the bottom of the skirt (hem allowance) not reaching the edges 5-10cm.
4.Lay the fabric face up and measure 1 cm from the top edge of the fabric downwards and draw a waist line across the entire panel.
5.Draw the line of the hips on the fabric (see section “Cutting Basics” - Taking measurements).
6.Determine the desired number of bow folds and, depending on the number, determine their width and depth.
For example, our style has 8 bow pleats. To do this, you need to divide the waist circumference of 72 cm by the number of bow folds: 72: 8 = 9 cm (width of the bow fold).
The width of the panel for the skirt is 120 x 2 cuts - 4 (for seams) = 236 cm.
236 - 72 (waist circumference) = 164cm (must be folded).
164: 8 = 20cm (depth of each opposing fold).
7.Mark the folds. From right to left along the hip line, measure 2cm for the side seam. From the seam line we measure 1/4 of the depth of the counter fold: 20: 4 = 5 cm.
8.Measure the width of the bow to be 9 cm, then the depth of the counter fold to be 20 cm. Divide this depth in half and determine the middle of the counter fold.
9.In this way, we calculate the entire width of the fabric, measuring sequentially the width of the bow and the depth of the folds. At the end of the grinding, measure 1/4 of the depth of the fold and 2 cm for the seam. Through the obtained points we draw vertical lines from the waist line to the bottom line.
10. Reduce the depth of the folds along the bottom line on each side by 1.5 cm. Connect the resulting points with the points on the hip line. The drawn lines will be the outer folds of the folds (Fig. 2).
Fig.2.
11.Note the folds. The outer fold of the fold along the hip line should lie in the middle of the depth of the fold strictly along the longitudinal thread.
12.Measure the resulting width of the skirt along the waistline with folds.
13. Subtract the waist circumference measurement from this number. Divide the resulting difference by the number of folds.
14.Increase the depth of the folds along the waist line by the resulting value, gradually reducing them “to nothing” to the hip line (Fig. 2).
15.Sew the side seam, leaving the area for the fastener (length of the zipper) unstitched.
16.We process the remainder of the hem allowance for the skirt.
17.We process the fastener in the left side seam.
18. We process the waist line of the skirt with a stitched belt.
19. Iron the finished product. Considering that the folds in this style are soft, we do not iron them.

A pleated skirt is a classic that is always in fashion, regardless of the length or color of the product. If you have at least a little experience in needlework, sewing an outfit will not be difficult. The sequence of work is described below.

Where to start

First of all, decide on the style, length of the product and the type of folds (circular, counter and bow).

To calculate the required amount of fabric, multiply the hip circumference (HC) by 3. It turns out that if you sew on a person with a hip circumference of 100 cm, you will need 300 + 10 = 310 cm, with a fabric width of 160 cm you will need 2 lengths.

To calculate the material for a skirt with bow pleats, you can use the formula:

Di + Shp*2+2 cm+3 cm

Where: Di is the length of the product, Shp is the width of the belt, 2 and 3 cm are seam allowances.

Now you can proceed directly to cutting and sewing the product.

Prepare necessary materials and tools:

• Textile;
• Threads;
• Needle;
• Pins;
• Tailor's scissors;
• Zipper or button;
• Tape measure;
• Chalk.

Skirt with pleats in a circle

There is no need to make a pattern for this model. All necessary markings are applied directly to the fabric using chalk or dry soap.

Uncover

Before drawing lines, make sure that the fabric lies correctly; mark the length of the skirt along the factory edge. Cut a straight strip at the top for the waistband.

Since it is impossible to find a fabric 3 meters wide in one piece, the product will consist of 2 or 3 parts.

For each piece, add your own seam allowance - 1-2 cm.

Lay out the resulting width on a flat surface and, armed with a ruler, begin marking. The calculation is this: to make one fold, the fabric must be folded in 3 layers. Width 1 is usually from 3 to 7 cm, respectively, the depth is 6-14 cm.

The quantity is calculated by the formula: (Vol + 4): 4 = 26 pcs.

Mark as follows. Leave 2 cm from the edges, this is for the seams. Next, half the depth of the fold is set aside, for this model it is 8:2 = 4 cm. Next, the width of the fold is also 4 cm and the full depth is 8 cm, again 4 and 8. In this sequence the entire skirt is drawn, in the end you will get 4 - 4 – 2.

How to sew:

1. From the top, measure the hip line (18-20), hem the bottom of the product, just short of the edges, and iron. Now we need to form counter folds.
2. The folds are ironed from above and to the hip line, and from this place and downwards they are sewn with a basting stitch.
3. Along the waistline, excess fabric is evenly tucked into the depths of the folds. Now sew from the top to the hip with a basting stitch, then iron it and you can sew. The skirt is sewn at the back.
4. Now you can move on to the belt, clasp and finally hem the bottom. The fabric on the belt is folded in half; for rigidity, a special tape can be inserted in the middle. Finish the edges, then baste to the top and stitch.
5. The zipper is hidden. It is inserted along the seam, grabbing the belt. All that remains is to remove the basting, iron it and you can wear it.

Long skirt with counter pleats

For sewing, you will need fabric of any width, preferably more than one and a half meters. The model will have one seam, a detachable waistband, and fasten with a hidden zipper.

Calculation and cutting

Because we want long skirt, then measure the distance from the waist to the ankles. If you plan to wear it with very high heels, then to the floor.

Cut a strip at the top for the belt. The length will be equal to the waist circumference (From) + 2 cm for the seams, the width will be 5 * 2 + 2 = 12 cm. Put this tape aside for now.

Let's start calculating and marking the folds.

Let's say there will be 8 of them (4 each in front and back). With a fabric width of 160 cm and a waist size of 75 cm, the calculation will look like this: 160 – 75 – 2 = 83 cm. This length will go into folds. The last number is the desired fold depth 83: 9 = 9.2 cm.

We make markings on the fabric.

The fabric is laid out on a flat surface, the total width is divided into 9 equal parts, 1 cm is subtracted from the edges per seam. From the received marks we put them in both directions along half the depth (4.6 cm).

How to sew:

1. Begin to fold from the outer marks to the central one, catching the folds with pins.
2. Then they are fastened with a basting seam and ironed.
3. Now you need to make a line along the top of the skirt and you can sew the seam, insert a zipper and hem the bottom.
4. The belt is first sewn from the inside and then from the front side. The hidden zipper should capture it and be hidden in the seam.
5. Upon completion of all work, the basting is removed, the product is ironed and can be worn.

Skirt with bow pleats

They are made similarly to the counter ones, only they look like the reverse side.

To calculate the width of the fold, you need to divide the waist size (from) by their number: 75/8 = 9.38. The depth is calculated as follows: for sewing, 120 cm of fabric is taken, 2 parts are needed for the skirt, total width 120 * 2-5 = 235 cm. Subtract the waist size (235-75 = 160) and divide by the quantity (160/8 = 20).

Having all the data, you can start marking the fabric.

First, we sew 2 panels together and get the total width. Next, we retreat 2.5 cm from the edge to the seam and measure out a quarter of the total depth of the fold (20/4 = 5). Next, mark the width of the bow, ½ the depth and again ½ the depth. After this, the marking will look like this: 9 – 10– 10– 9. At the end there will be 2.5 cm left for the seam.

The folds are laid in the same way as the counter folds, but with a bow facing outwards. Further actions are similar to sewing the previous model.

A skirt sewn with your own hands is not only a cost-saver, but also a manifestation of individuality. The risk of meeting a person in the same outfit is reduced to a minimum. Fashionable and stylish solutions for you!