The most beautiful drawings of light techniques in watercolor. Watercolor painting lesson for beginners
Watercolor paints are one of the most loved by artists. Firstly, watercolor has a lot of different techniques, and secondly, with its help you can create a beautiful drawing, even if you don’t know how to draw at all.
These techniques will help beginners learn how to draw, and professionals will refresh their memory and find inspiration and ideas.
1. Painting with a flat brush
Step 1
Draw a square or rectangle to mark the start and end of the layer.
Select a darker shade (it's easier to see) and starting in the top left corner, touch your brush to the paper and gently draw a straight line all the way to the top right corner.
But: Left-handers should draw from the right corner to the left.
Step 2
Fill your brush with paint again.
Start the next stroke from the bottom edge of the first, trying to cover the accumulation of paint that has formed at the bottom of the first stroke.
Hint 1: If the buildup of paint in the first stroke does not flow completely into the second, then increase the angle of your easel to help the paint flow freely.
Hint 2: By increasing the angle of inclination, you also increase the chances of getting uncontrollable paint flows. So try to work faster or have something like a rag or sponge on hand to quickly clean up spills.
Step 3
Repeat the previous step, also trying to cover the accumulation of paint in the top stroke.
Hint 3: You can use the flat edge of the brush to “cut” the beginning of the layer and make it even.
Hint 4: If you want to smooth out the end edge of a layer, then at the end of the stroke, pause and move the brush up and then down as you would with the beginning edge.
Hint 5: If the stroke turns out to be intermittent, then immediately fill the brush with paint and re-stroke it.
Step 4
Repeat the previous steps until the very end. Try to stick to the same paint tone.
Hint 6: You won't believe how different the behavior of brushes, paints and paper can be between different brands. Typically, more expensive and popular brands make your job easier by providing high quality products.
Hint 7: If your strokes are choppy even though your brush is full of paint, you are using paper that is too thick or the paper is too rough in texture. If you come across such paper, spray it with water, blot it with a clean sponge and let it dry. This will make the surface more receptive to your paint.
Step 5
Rinse the brush and squeeze out all remaining water from it. Gently pick up any clumps of paint left from the bottom of the final stroke with your brush, but don't pick up too much paint or you will discolor your drawing.
To create more texture in your design, let it dry at an angle. This will give the paint a more interesting look.
Gradient
Step 1
Draw a square or rectangle. Then dip your brush into a darker shade of paint (mix on your palette) and carefully brush over the stroke.
Step 2
Dry your brush with a sponge or paper towel and dip it again in a lighter shade.
Then draw a new stroke, overlapping the bottom of the previous one. Notice that the left side of the layer has already merged with the previous stroke. Let gravity do its thing.
Step 3
Rinse the brush again and dry it. And then refill the brush with paint and make another stroke. Repeat this process until the very end.
Hint 1: If your stroke breaks or doesn't go on as smoothly as you'd like, quickly refill your brush with paint and repeat the coat.
Step 4
Rinse the brush with clean water, dry it and pick up any remaining paint.
Hint 2: Try this technique by working with different colors and creating interesting transitions.
Watercolor glaze
Step 1
This technique requires improvisation and imagination. Using the example, we will draw an improvised landscape.
First we paint the sky and river with blue paint. We will separate the paint with a small amount of water, this will be a waterfall.
Step 2
Draw the clouds in dark pink and start drawing the mountain in yellow. We will also mark the bottom part of the picture in yellow.
The example uses light and transparent tones so you can see how the layers interact.
Step 3
By mixing cobalt blue and ultramarine blue, we will paint the horizon of the mountain and shade the small yellow slope.
Hint 1: allow each layer to dry. You can use a hair dryer to speed up this process. Keep it at least 25-30 cm away, turn on the cool setting and set the hair dryer to the lightest air flow. No steam or hot air!
Step 4
To shade and add interesting colors, we use orange. With its help we will create the shores in the foreground and shade the sky.
Hint 2: If you get droplets of excess paint, rinse and dry your brush as you did in the previous techniques, and pick up the droplets with it.
Step 5
Please note that the images show different paint brushes. You can use the ones you have on hand.
Take a dark blue color and use it to highlight the top of the mountain, varying the pressure on the brush and turning it to create an interesting texture.
Step 6
Using the same blue color, let's play with the waterfall by drawing some circles. Sometimes visual clichés become your friends.
Let's rinse the brush and pick up the yellow color, we will use it to add visual details to our shores.
Step 7
After the paint has dried, shade the bubbles in the waterfall with a shade of purple. This way we will make them more interesting.
Step 8
We need to link some elements and add trees. In the example, we used round templates for the crowns, but you can draw as you like.
Step 9
We will use brown color to depict tree trunks. We will also use blue to shade the water and sky a little more. Then, using pink, blue and green, we will paint the grass in the foreground.
Step 10
Use a mixture of pink and red to add the final details. Our trees are now bearing fruit, and several fruits lie under them.
If you look closely, you can see how each layer interacts with each other. A darker shade has more power, but when the colors overlap each other, they create an interesting and beautiful combination.
“Wet” technique
Step 1
Wet the paper with water
Step 2
Blot the paper with a clean sponge, removing excess water. Try to achieve an even distribution of moisture throughout the paper, you should get a satin effect.
If the paper is shiny, it means it is too wet, blot it again.
Step 3
We will draw the landscape again. Let's start, of course, from the sky. Using this technique, it is easier to draw the background first, then moving on to the foreground objects.
Step 4
We continue to draw the sky until we start to like it. The strokes will blur, creating an interesting effect.
Step 5
Now let's move on to the grass in the foreground. Using green, we will make several broad strokes, leaving space for the stones.
As the paper dries, the strokes blur less and less.
Step 6
Let's add forms. To do this, we use different shades of green and draw trees on the horizon.
Step 7
Having added the trees, let's try to add texture to them. To do this, use a darker shade of green to create accents.
Step 8
Add stones using gray color. We filled in the gaps in the foreground with this color, leaving some gaps.
Try to use either dark or cool shades. Using both dark and cool shades will create visual dissonance.
Step 9
Let's place accents to diversify the design. Using a crimson tint, we will depict several floral elements in the foreground. Let the crimson flow as it pleases. Then, using a dry brush, remove the color from the middle of the spots.
Step 10
Then drop clean water into the center of these spots to allow them to blend into the grass.
The hardest part about this technique is knowing when to stop. Overdoing it with blurs and colors will result in a messy drawing.
This technique gives a slightly strange but interesting result. A drawing made using this technique has a hypnotizing effect.
Dry brush painting
Step 1
We think the name of the technique speaks for itself. We will need to put paint on the brush, blot it from excess liquid with a paper towel or sponge, and then paint.
First, let's make a pencil sketch. After this, we roughly outline the sky by moving the brush over the surface of the paper.
Step 2
Let's paint the trees on the horizon line in green, outlining what will later become our lake.
Then, mixing purple and blue, we will draw the first layer of the tree trunk.
Step 3
Let the drawing dry and add some elements: the reflection of a tree in the lake and the flow of water.
Mixing green and blue, shade the shore in the background of the image and let the drawing dry again.
Step 4
Mix an intense blue with ultramarine and paint a layer on the tree trunk to create shadows and bark texture.
Step 5
Then, using shades of orange, we will depict an autumn landscape by painting over the background trees.
Step 6
Having finished with the previous step, use a light orange tint to depict the reflection of the trees in the water.
Also, mixing gray with blue, we will place dark accents on the trees.
We will also add trees on the other side of the horizon. Let's denote the tree shapes in orange.
Step 7
Let's take care of the water. Use dark green and brown to achieve the desired color. And with wave-like movements we will draw the water in the lake.
Step 8
When painting a lake, change the pressure on your brush to add texture.
Clue: if the brush is too wet, the paint will look flat. Dry the brush to intensify the colors.
Step 9
Let's add some grass under the tree, using the same color as for the grass in the background.
Step 10
Let's add some details to the foreground.
We will also darken the lake a little by adding a blue tint. We’ll also shade the sky with the same color.
Removing moisture
This technique will require several sponges. It is suitable for depicting clouds and soft light. It can also control the behavior of paints.
Sponges
Makeup sponges are best. They absorb well and give an interesting effect.
Try not to rub the sponge on the paper, and if you do, do it very carefully so as not to damage the paper.
Paper towels
With their help you can create sharper highlights. But paper towels absorb huge amounts of paint very quickly. Therefore, they can completely absorb fresh paint.
Paper towels can come in handy if you make a mistake. Then you can quickly remove the paint.
Dry brush
You can use a dry brush to create a design using this technique. To do this, rinse thoroughly and squeeze out the brush. With its help you can create clear lines.
Other methods:
- You can spray water where you want to remove the paint and then soak it up with a sponge.
- Use different fabrics to add texture
- You can use your fingers or other body parts. Skin can also absorb moisture.
Discoloration of dried paint
Watercolor brushes
Use clean water and a cloth, wet the desired areas, gently rub the drawing and remove the moisture with a dry brush. This method allows you to control the areas you lighten.
Brushes for oil or acrylic paint
Stiff bristles allow you to quickly scrape paint off the desired area. But it is worth noting that this method can damage the paper, so control yourself.
Here, just like in the first method, you first need to wet the area and then brush it on.
Spray and towel
Take a spray bottle and spray the desired area, and then apply a paper towel to it. This method leaves large light spots and gives an interesting effect.
Sandpaper
It is very rarely used, as it can damage the paper. It's best used at the end to add texture. You don't need water for this method, just rub the design where you want it.
Blades and knives
Can be used to highlight small areas and create crisp lines. This method is also very risky as it can damage the paper.
Sponges
You can also use sponges. Wet the desired area and dry it with a sponge.
To get the desired result when working with paints, you need to have the right tools. Of course, you don't have to buy expensive painting supplies, but I still don't recommend using bad watercolors or paper that isn't suitable for it.
Here's a list of the basic things you'll need to get your creative journey started:
- Brushes: my favorite ones are with faux sable. They have a reasonable price and are in no way inferior in quality. You may need brushes of different sizes. I advise you to buy round brushes number 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12, as well as one or two large ones, so that you have plenty to choose from.
- Palette: Choose a palette that has enough space to place and mix colors together.
- Paints: My favorite is Winsor & Newton, but there are many other good brands. If you don't want to pay a lot, remember that manufacturers often create two types of paints - for beginners and for professionals. The Cotman series from Winsor & Newton is for beginners, and the Artist is for professionals. Even though the beginner series are cheaper, they are still of high quality. If you want to save money, but still get acceptable quality, buy Russian “White Nights” paints.
- Water cans: I usually have at least two - one for my dirty brushes, the other for mixing colors.
- Paper: Choose between semi-smooth (cold pressing) and smooth texture (hot pressing). Hot pressed paper has a smoother surface and the ink adheres to it differently. I use semi-smooth because I like the hard texture and I think watercolor looks interesting on it.
- White gouache: White watercolors are usually too transparent and barely noticeable. I prefer to do the final strokes and highlights with white gouache.
2. Start with a sketch
Regardless of whether you come up with the drawing yourself or copy it, I advise you to always start with a sketch. I like to draw with a ballpoint pen on newsprint—the stiff texture allows ideas to flow freely, and I don't worry too much about mistakes.
Above I've attached a few examples from my children's book, Pickle: The Little Bird Who Doesn't Tweet! To begin, I make a rough sketch in blue pencil. I draw the same line several times, trying to find the right forms that complement the plot.
If there are too many lines and it becomes difficult to make out them, then I simply move to another page. As soon as I like one of the sketches, I outline everything with a black ballpoint pen.
3. Sketch in color
I often create studies in color before I start working on the actual painting. To choose the right colors, the sketch must be drawn on watercolor paper. Let it be small, for example 10x15 cm or less.
The sketch doesn't have to be perfect. Instead, take note of how colors attract attention and how you can add interest to a painting using light and shadow. The purpose of the sketch is to understand what impression the final picture should make.
Even though Pickle is an ebook, I really wanted it to retain the feel of a classic children's picture book like Peter Rabbit, but also be modern and funny.
To achieve this, I added subtle, subtle lines and textures to the paintings. And in order for “Pickle” to also look current, I used not only modern visual references, but also a brighter and more saturated color scheme than those in classic illustrations.
4. Preparing paint and paper
There is a common misconception that for the final painting you must use the same range that you selected for the sketch. Of course, then the painting will look exactly like the sketch, but it's still better to start with clean drawing supplies and a clean palette. This will prevent the paint from looking dull and uncontrollable.
Also, don’t forget to regularly wash all accessories as soon as they become too dirty. This will help keep the colors clean and rich.
You don't have to worry about keeping the paper from shrinking if you're drawing in a sketchbook, but be sure to secure the paper of the final painting. You can either stretch it yourself, or buy a watercolor block that is already stretched.
Thin line with pencil
After all this, you can finally make a sketch. Draw very thin lines so that you can paint over them later. Unless, of course, you have plans to make them noticeable.
People often ask if I use any techniques to transfer the sketch onto the paper of the final painting. Actually, I just redraw it by hand. That's when I usually finalize it and add the finishing touches.
5. Watercolor is a multifaceted medium.
There is a common misconception that painting with watercolor means constantly worrying about how much water is on your brush. Many people think that if they use more water, the paint will behave as it should.
In reality, everything is not like that. It is better to pay attention to how quickly water evaporates from the paper. You must consider the weather and humidity when painting. And also, of course, the characteristics of the paper itself, how strong its absorbency is.
If you paint on a dry, sunny day, use more water. And if you are painting, for example, near a waterfall, then too much water on your brushes can create a risk of color bleeding. And in general, it is better to add new layers of paint in a timely manner, taking into account the moisture level of the paper.
One of the interesting things about watercolor is that you can paint with little or no water to create a dry effect or to capture the look of an oil painting. Watercolor really can do a lot.
6. Where to start
You can find many watercolor painting techniques and tutorials on websites and in books. But I would like to tell you how to perceive the big picture. There are many theories about where to start with watercolor painting. One of the most popular methods is from light to dark. Although I don’t think you should be constrained by any rules - I’ve seen artists create amazing paintings by starting from darkest to lightest.
I usually start with what I like the most, like Pickle the bird, and then move on to the side characters. And after all this I add the background color using a large brush.
I advise you not to worry if the paint does not lay down the way you want or goes over the edges. On the contrary, it should be perceived as one of the most interesting aspects of painting with watercolors. You can achieve cool and unexpected effects at any time.
Usually, after I apply the background colors, the paper becomes damp, so I let it dry before worrying about the details. And this time I really have control over how the paint flows.
I almost always leave room for decorative details empty until the very end, because I use them to enhance the composition or direct the reader's attention to a specific place. That's why I don't want to accidentally highlight them too much.
In my children's book, the characters spend most of their time outdoors, so I usually save leaves, plants and flowers for last, even though they are an important part of the composition. I want them to highlight the art as much as the storyline itself.
7. Experiment
There are no rules, there are only tools! As with any other art form, there are many techniques in painting. Experiment and learn new techniques that will complement your drawing style. You can use white, you can scrape the surface of the paper, you can apply a lot of paint. Most importantly, have fun!
If you're interested in my painting process, you can watch a quick-motion video of how I painted the picture below from start to finish. The video is three minutes long, but in real time it took me seven hours:
Schoolgirl drawing in mixed media. Watercolor + colored pencils. Video
We will deal with one of the most common difficulties - how to avoid mud in watercolor.
I believe that some of the tips I will give will be useful not only for watercolorists. They are common to painting in general.
So, we want watercolor painting to be thin, delicate, ringing, and transparent. It is the transparency and purity of color that is often captivating in this technique.
However, sometimes we are disappointed - despite all our efforts, the watercolor becomes gray and dull, and the more we try to correct it and add brightness to the color, the more dirt appears in it. Sound familiar?
Before answering the question, how to prevent dirt from appearing in your painting, you need to understand what is considered “dirt” in general.
Grey colour?
Looking at this sketch, we can hardly say that the watercolor here is dirty. The color in it is restrained, gray, but, you see, it does not evoke a feeling of dirt.
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So the gray color in the picture is not bad at all?
Why do we consider the appearance of gray in our work as dirt? After all, the gray color itself is not at all dirty, but very picturesque.
After looking at the works of subscribers who sent their watercolors as an example of “dirty” ones, I made the first conclusion:
“Dirt” is when gray color appears where it was not expected.
Here's an example. We planned to draw red flowers. We drew green grass and red flowers on top. Due to the transparency of watercolor, the green color shines through the red, and the flowers are no longer red, but gray-brown-crimson. Dirt? Dirt.
But the second picture in the example above gives us another insight:
“Dirty” is also a failure, cloudiness, blurredness, insufficient contrast.
In both examples there is no use of gray. And the reasons for the dirt, in fact, lie not in the use of complex colors, but in a completely different area.
And there may be many more such reasons.
In the points below, I tried to collect all the possible options for the appearance of dirt when painting with watercolors and give advice on how to avoid them.
USE QUALITY MATERIALS IN WATERCOLORS
Looking at the first example (and this is a real picture that was sent to me to analyze the shortcomings in watercolor), we can immediately say that The reason for the dirt here is thin paper, which is not suitable for painting with water-based paints.
It gets wet, warps, comes in waves and “pellets”.
Do not use regular printer or thin landscape paper for watercolor painting!
Many artists will generally assure you that you can only paint with watercolors on special 100% cotton paper.
I'm not so categorical. Cellulose paper marked “for watercolors” is also quite suitable, and even paper for drawing. The main thing is that it is not thin. Make sure that the paper density is at least 170 gsm.
For beginners, I also do not recommend paper for watercolors such as “shell”, “canvas”, “linen”. This hot-pressed paper from Goznak is often found in folders and gluing. However, for those who are not yet proficient in watercolor techniques, this paper will be difficult.
Secondly, the quality of your work will depend on the paints. Avoid paint sets that are whitish in appearance, with pastel shades. They will produce cloudiness in batches.
WATCH THE TRANSPARENCY OF THE WATER COLOR LAYERS
The two examples below show us a bright and rich, but opaque painting, more similar to gouache than watercolor:
Remember that the paper should be visible through the layer of paint in watercolor.
And this does not mean that the colors should be pale and light!
Even black in a watercolor painting can be transparent, while remaining rich and deep.
Look at the examples above. In the first case, the black color of the cat seems cloudy and dirty to us, and in the second, the dark black areas of the picture continue to remain ringing.
The difference here is precisely in the thickness of the paint layer, its thickness and opacity.
DO NOT MIX WATERCOLORS WITH WHITE
Even if you have white in your paint set, this does not mean that it should be mixed with other colors or applied in large layers in order to obtain a light shade.
In watercolor, the role of white is played by paper. To get a light shade, we simply dilute the paint with water.
Look at the examples below. The use of white makes the watercolor cloudy and opaque. And as a result - dirty.
Of course, as with any rule, there are exceptions. There are pigments that already contain white. And there are artists who deliberately mix white into the shade. (For example, Miguel Linares. Article about his technique)
But when using white, you must understand what you are doing and why, and be able to compensate for the opacity of the layer with contrast.
Therefore, when painting with watercolors for beginners, I recommend forgetting about whitewash.
USE COVERING PAINTS CAREFULLY
Covering inks include yellow, orange, iron oxide red, cerruleum and other shades.
Before use, be sure to pass them through the palette and dilute with water, because... they are taken on the brush more densely than the others. And, without meaning to, you will introduce a covering layer into the picture.
remember, that in watercolor you cannot achieve ringing brightness due to the thickness of the layer.
For yellow to glow and be bright, it must be laid in a transparent layer!
In most cases, layer thickness = opacity = dirt.
DO NOT WRITE IN LIGHT SHADES ON DARK SHADES
If you paint with watercolors in multiple layers, putting one shade on top of another, then go from light to dark.
Paint all the light and distant areas first, and then gradually move towards the foreground and darker shades.
In the case where the shades are equal in lightness, first paint with opaque paints, then with transparent ones.
For example, to give the sky a stretch from a warm shade at the horizon to a cold one at the top, first lay out the ocher, and then pour a shade of blue into it.
Why is this so?
Because yellow shades, as mentioned above, are more covering, and if they are placed on top of transparent and dark ones, they create an opaque cloudy layer.
Apply warm light shades as the first layer, then you will be able to get a transparent structure.
6
DO NOT MIX A LARGE NUMBER OF COLORS IN ONE BATCH
We have already found out that gray color can be sonorous and beautiful.
It becomes ugly and dirty when it loses its transparency.
Remember, the more paints you mix, the more different pigments that make them up are involved in the mix. And the less chance you have of getting a more sonorous and transparent color.
Based on this,
ADVICE! How to paint with watercolors without dirt:
1. Take 2 containers of water (for rinsing the brush and for adding water to the paint solution). Keep the water clean and change it often. After all, in watercolor water is 90% of the content. And if it is dirty, then this color is mixed with the shade on the brush.
2. Know your paints. When opening a new set, save the name labels and color the colors in the order they appear in the box. Keep this sign next to your box of paints.
This way you will always hit the right color with your brush, without throwing random shades into the mix.
3. Periodically wash your brushes with cold water and soap to remove pigment that lingers on the bristles.
4. Try to get the desired shade by mixing a minimum number of colors
5. The more layers, the duller the color; if you want to write juicy and loud, then write a la prima, in one layer.
Practical seminar “Features of color science in watercolor”
will answer paint mixing questions that may arise when working with watercolors!
Master the basics of watercolor painting with this popular course
“Taming Watercolor”
Hi all! You really asked me to publish watercolor painting lessons, and I thought for a long time where to find suitable material, because this topic is not new, and there is already a lot of different information on the Internet, so I decided not to invent it, but to use materials from foreign authors. This article is the first, but not the last. I hope you enjoy it and find it useful!
This article covers the basics you need to know to get started with watercolors. However, if you continue to scratch your head after reading, then please feel free to ask questions in the comments! I will be happy to answer you!
Before I started writing this article, I decided to do a little research on the Internet about painting. watercolor for beginners. This way, I reasoned, I wouldn’t miss a single moment and would write the best post. But good God... I've been painting with watercolors all my life, and the information I found on Google stunned me. After three too many overwhelming articles, I threw up my hands and decided that I would show you how I, personally, work with watercolors - and the adjective to my watercolor approach is “simple”.
Tools and materials
First, I want to talk about the materials and tools you will need. Of course, the most obvious tool would be a watercolor set.
I prefer the set from Greenleaf & Blueberry. It's a little pricey, but I love it! However, if you are just starting out, there is no need to invest in expensive kits.
Advice from the site:
Go to the nearest art store and buy an art set of watercolor paints that suits your price, the main thing is that it is not for children 😉
If you live in the outback, where it is difficult to find such a product, then you can order a set through an online store. So that you can get an idea of the cost, I’m sending you examples of sets that are easy to find in our country:
Finally you will need clean water and cloth(I use an old dinner napkin) or paper towel to dry the brush.
Any glassware will do, I use an old mug.
Transparency of watercolor
The great thing about painting with watercolor is that you have complete control over the opacity of the paint. Watch how one color can change depending on the ratio of water and paint on the brush!
The picture on the left shows what a brush stroke looks like with a lot of water and a little paint. The illustration in the middle has a more equal ratio of water to paint. The picture on the right has more paint than water.
You may be thinking, “That's all well and good, but how can I control this water/paint ratio?” Before you do anything, apply a drop or two of water directly to the cuvettes you plan to use. This will wet the paint and make it ready to go. Then, you can do one of two things:
1. Use a palette
You can take a palette and mix three different shades of the same color on it. For the first color, use a brush to apply about eight drops of water into the indentation. Then, dip the still wet brush into the already moistened watercolor and transfer the color to the palette.
Apply about five drops of water into the second cavity. Again, dip your still wet brush into the watercolor and transfer the color into the water. Be sure to agitate the brush so that all the paint comes off! If this new color is very similar to your first, add more paint.
For the darkest shade, you will simply work directly with the paint from the pan, the shade should be very saturated.
2. We work directly from the watercolor set
You can use the concentration of water on your brush to control the shade of the paint. If you want a very light shade, wet your brush well with water and touch the tip of the brush to the paint. If, when transferring to paper, you find that the concentration of paint is too high, dip your brush in water again, and apply this water directly into the paint on the paper. The color will become more transparent! For midtones, you'll still be applying watercolor with a damp brush, but using more paint. For darker tones, I dab my brush with a tissue (it will still be damp, but not saturated) and then take the paint straight from the kit.
Mixing
The reason we looked into transparency is for mixing and overlaying colors. With different shades of the same color you can make any look come true. I'm going to show you how to turn a circle into a ball using watercolor blending and transparency:
1. First, draw a circle in the lightest shade.
2. Assume the light is at the top right as shown in the picture. Accordingly, the shadow will be in the lower left corner of the circle. To start painting the shadow, use your brush to pick your medium shade. Draw the shadow as if it is “hugging” a crescent-shaped circle, like this:
3. You can see that there is now a definite separation between the shadow and the highlight. To get rid of this difference and create a smooth transition, you need to mix the colors together - an easy task when painting with watercolors! To mix, submerge the brush in water to remove any remaining paint from the brush. Dry the brush to make sure all the paint is gone, then wet the brush bristles again with water. Then, place the brush on the separation between the shadow and the highlight and drag the middle shade with water, it will blur. Soon, you won't be able to tell where the mid-tone and light end and where the shadow begins!
4. Now it's time to add a dark shadow to the bottom of the circle. Apply a dark shade around the bottom of the sphere, as in the photo.
5. Mix the dark shade the same way you did with the middle shade, and voila!
6. You can add a drop shadow if you want. To do this, draw a thin line on the opposite side of the light below the sphere, like this:
Then, you need to draw out the color with a brush dipped in water until it disappears.
You might find it easier to understand the concept of blending/shading if you watch the video:
If you want more practice with blending and shaping, I'd recommend painting these shapes in different colors:
You could make the sphere green, the cube blue, etc. Drawing shapes like these helps you understand how to make things look three-dimensional. Yes, it can be a little boring... but so rewarding!
Mixing watercolors
To mix watercolors, you definitely need a palette, whether built into your kit or separate. The process of mixing colors is simple: apply one color to the palette and then add another color. Mix them together and you get a new color!
If you have a small selection of colors in a set, knowing how to mix will come in handy. There are many sources that tell you what colors to mix together to achieve the desired result.
If your mixed color dries out in your palette, don't worry. You can re-wet it and it will be as good as new no matter how much time has passed.
With watercolors you can paint anything - from a realistic portrait to imaginary alien worlds. Many people think watercolor is a complex artistic tool. But all you really need to learn how to paint with watercolors is to just start. We have selected 11 tips for you, thanks to which you will become 11 steps closer to understanding the art of watercolor drawing.
1. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty!
If you've never drawn before, it's time to get started. Open the album, create interesting textures and stains with watercolors so as not to freeze in front of a white sheet of paper. Start from them in search of a plot. Color pages can be bright and exciting or create a calm, melancholic mood. Color or texture may suggest the next step - or maybe you're itching to paint without it.
Illustration from the book “The World of Watercolors”.
2. Find your watercolor paper
The result of the work largely depends on the quality of the watercolor paper. Go to a bookstore and select 5-10 different sheets of watercolor paper to try out. Be sure to make notes on each sheet (type, weight of paper and results of working with it). A suitable paper weight for beginners is 300 g/m2, some professionals prefer 600 g/m2. There are other types of watercolor paper, such as NOT paper and rough texture paper, or cold pressed paper.
3. Use professional paints
Even novice artists should purchase professional watercolor paints. Unlike cheap analogues, artistic paints lay beautifully and spread on paper.
“I prefer tubes rather than pans: firstly, you don’t have to wait for the paint to soften and become workable, and secondly, it’s easier to create rich, dark mixtures with tube paint.”Billy Showell
It is true that artist paints are more expensive, but they will also last longer. They dilute better and therefore are not used up so quickly.
Advice. Try new paints and other art materials as often as possible. Experiment. Don't become a hostage to one habit
4. Observe and consider before you take up the brush
Before drawing, study the structure of the object. Look at it as if you were seeing it for the first time, look carefully, take notes, sketches, get familiar with textures and details that you have never paid attention to. For example, observe the spiral arrangement of the leaves or the whorls along the veins of the stem.
You get double benefits from drawing plants - first you meditate while looking at it, and then you get real pleasure from drawing. Isn't it wonderful? @miftvorchestvo
Try to mentally break down what you see into its components. Select the main shapes. See how they overlap each other. Imagine the landscape as a stage set. Pay attention to what is closest and what is further away.
5. Learn to mix paints
Try mixing colors to get an idea of what shades you can achieve with your paint set. Mix two colors first, then add a third to them. Experiment!
You will love creating such beautiful colors and variations of shades and tones, the number of them is almost inexhaustible.
Focus on yourself. You can make either very realistic drawings or very non-trivial ones. Your task is to collect paints whose properties you will know, which will allow you to create the desired shades with a guaranteed good result.
By mixing pure pigments, you can create cool, warm or grayish variations of the same color. Illustration from the book “Song of Colors”
6. Start with sparing expression
If you make pencil sketches or sketches, you can diversify your watercolor drawings by adding accents. You don't have to color the entire page; sometimes a few well-placed brush strokes create the most powerful effect.
Careless dotted watercolor strokes in sketches are the signature style of Felix Scheinberger. Illustration from the book “Watercolor Sketching”
7. Use liquid primer for watercolors
Liquid primer for watercolors is applied to the paper before starting work and allows you to easily remove dried paint if necessary. This is especially important when working with intense or persistent pigments: you don’t have to worry about “staining” the paper in the area of highlights. Before using it, practice in a sketchbook, as the surface for drawing will be quite slippery.
To remove paint from those areas where it was not needed (you accidentally went beyond the edges or you need to create highlights), simply wash off the paint with a clean, dampened brush or sponge.
8. Learn the art of glazing
Artists call glazing a technique for obtaining deep iridescent colors by applying translucent paints on top of the main one. The glazing technique is an excellent way to convey the finest color gamut. The paints are applied very delicately, layer by layer, and after drying the details of the last layer are worked out.
Illustration from the book “Song of Colors”
9. Dry brush technique
This technique can be used to draw animal fur or small hairs on fruits such as kiwi.
Apply paint to the brush and remove excess with a napkin. Straighten the brush hairs. Apply paint to a dry surface previously painted in the background color. Work in small strokes in one direction, imitating hairs on the surface.
Kiwi using dry brush technique. Illustration from the book
