Building the base of a children's overalls. Winter overalls for boys with a zipper and warm fleece.

I will sew online, that is, together with everyone, taking my time, gradually laying out the sewing process, and answering questions along the way. I will post each stage in a new post, leaving links to previous and subsequent stages. Girls, you can do the same on your blog (magazine, topic, or just in my comments), post your steps with explanations or questions, clarifications, etc.
I warn you that there will be a lot of writings and photos. That’s why, most likely, I leaned towards step-by-step sewing rather than immediately ready-made volumetric MK. I don’t promise to photograph everything beautifully and colorfully, but I’ll try to make it clear and not completely dirty and blurry)))))

In general, I will sew a jumpsuit in the same image and likeness for my Ksyusha. I’m not sure about the fur yet, but if there are a lot of people who want to attach the fur, I’ll show you.

There are few details in it. Quite a simple model. There will be no inserts or decor. All from the same printed fabric. I have this jacket fabric with a membrane coating with the image of rainbow zyobers))))
The lining will be fleece and omnikhite. You can take a regular lining, or you can make one lining for the entire height. But full-length fleece will not be very comfortable, I think. That's why I only put it on the front and back up to the butt. Below will be the Slidsky Omnihit, and it will also be in the sleeves. There will be fleece on the collar and hood. I took the TricotBrush, which I had previously put in my other overalls, but it’s out of stock, unfortunately.

And so, my list necessary materials for insulated overalls size 98-104.

Raincoat - 1.5m
fleece - 0.5m
omnihit (lining) - approximately 1m
insulation (I have Alpolux 200 for winter) - approximately 1m
zippers:
- main - 1 PC
- on the pockets - 2 pcs
- on the fastened hood - 1 PC
wide elastic band 3cm for cuffs - 80cm is enough
decorative elastic band for straps - approximately 1m
hat elastic for tightening - approximately 1m
Velcro
threads
fasteners for drawstring - I have found two things that match the color so far, maybe I’ll take others and make a drawstring on the hood, I don’t know yet...

In my photo I also have an additional gray raincoat fabric for the pocket and frames. Perhaps it won’t be needed, it’s just that the pattern of my main fabric is directed, you can’t turn it anyhow, in case it’s not enough, so I played it safe. But it should be enough for the main details.

I take the pattern from Ottobre magazine 2014-4, model 14. For my daughter’s height of 94 cm, I take the size of this pattern 104. As the practice of sewing this pattern has shown, for winter insulation it is good to take a size one larger than the child’s own. That is, Ksyusha’s native size is 98, one more - 104. This is quite enough, the pattern is good, in my opinion, the width is sufficient.
The changes I make to it are very minor: for reserve for growth, and in general for some convenience I increase the length of the legs and sleeves by 4cm! How larger size, the greater the increase. Well, you also need to look at what is planned for the legs and sleeves. I have cuffs, my formula is +4cm. The growth margin turns out to be exactly 10 centimeters. That is, a child with a height of 92 to 102 cm can fit well in this size.
I make the collar 1.5 cm higher. I measured this clearly today. Before that I somehow added it by eye))
Well I'm converting the hood into a two-seam one. This is my personal preference. Not necessary.

I don’t touch the armhole, sleeves or neckline. But perhaps someone will need to lower the armhole a little and widen the sleeve. Girls, look at your children. These narrow sleeves suit me quite well. And, unfortunately, I can’t tell you how to change the armhole...

Almost every baby has a onesie in their wardrobe. It is comfortable to put on and wear. It does not restrict movement. They are sewn from lightweight fabrics and quilted with almost weightless fillings. Last factor makes such clothes more comfortable to wear in autumn-spring and winter time compared to heavy sheepskin coats. Pattern baby onesie with a hood will allow you to sew it at home.

Winter coveralls

Let's look at children's patterns winter overalls.

This option can be taken as a basis, adjusted to the desired size, or sewn for a height of 110 cm and a chest circumference of 56 cm. This pattern provides:

1. Hood. It can be made detachable or sewn in.
2. The fastener is used in the form of a zipper.
3. A stand-up collar made from fleece, fur or other materials.
4. Belt with clasp.

Working with the pattern:

1. Redraw or print the drawing.
2. Be sure to check compliance taken measurements pattern.
3. The jumpsuit can be decorated with finishing trim, as indicated on the pattern, or you can come up with your own version of the decoration.
4. The drawing does not include seam allowances.
5. Cut the lining and insulation according to the main pattern.

This option is suitable for girls and boys.

Watch videos on sewing winter overalls below:

Here are more patterns:

Large selection of patterns different sizes presented in Burda magazines.

Pattern for babies in the first months of life

Let's continue the topic winter clothes. Below is a pattern for a baby jumpsuit for a newborn.

Selecting fabric

It is better to choose a material that is durable, waterproof and breathable at the same time. Such fabrics are made on the basis of polyamide.

Beginning of work

Transfer the pattern to the fabric, being sure to take into account the seam allowances.

• on the sides and shoulders - 2 cm;
• for the neckline, armholes and double elements - 7 mm each;
• on the front - 3 cm;
• For processing seams, leave 1.5 cm.

Sequence of actions

1. First, the pockets are sewn on, then the front piece is connected to the side pieces.
2. Preparing the collar, sewing the seams on the shoulders.
3. Baste the collar to the neckline and finish the fastener.
4. At the waist, sew the fabric in the form of a strip in order to insert an elastic band.
5. Sew on the sleeves.
6. Sew on the bottom.

The overalls are sewn with lining and insulation. Below is a pattern for a height of 110 cm. Usually such clothes last up to a year, then you need a larger size.

Half of the pattern from the back:

From the front side the pattern looks like this:

Cutting and sewing techniques

• Make a drawing on paper taking into account the size. Cut out the details and transfer them to the fabric, immediately marking the allowances.
• Cut out the details of the sleeves, back and front from the fabric.
• First sew the sleeves, trim the bottom.
• Connect the back and front along the sides and along the inner edge of the legs. Or, as an option, make a zipper on inside pants for easy diaper changing.
• Connect the sleeves to the main part.
• Sew on a zipper, Velcro or buttons.
• Finish the seams of the neckline and sleeve joining lines.

Pattern for fur overalls

To sew a fur jumpsuit, a base pattern is also used. You can use the drawings given above. Fur is often used to trim the hood, sleeves, and collar.

Overalls

The pattern for children's overalls for winter is presented here:

Take seam allowances of 3 cm, except for the neck (1 cm). To make it easier for the child to remove warm overalls, a zipper or buttons are sewn at the bottom.

The next pattern is for denim overalls.

It is made with straps.

You can make a cute applique on the front.

Option for denim overalls.

To sew the overalls I needed:

• (we are 6.5 months old, but I sewed a size 74 overalls for growth);
• 1.2 m of main fabric (I used raincoat fabric);
• 1.2 m of fabric for lining (as lining fabric I used fleece);
• 2 m of insulation (our winters are cold, so I made two layers of double synthetic padding);
• 2 permanent zippers 50 cm long;
• 1 cord 80 cm;
• elastic cord 1.5 m;
• 6 clamps and 6 cord ends.

I added boots and mittens to the overalls pattern (patterns are given in actual size):

I also changed the edging of the hood and the backing for the zipper (see below)

Step 1. When cutting parts from the main fabric, I made the following seam allowances (allowances are given in cm)

When cutting out the lining parts, I made all seam allowances according to 1 cm

I cut out the backing for the zipper the same way from both raincoat fabric and fleece.

Step 2. At the next step, I placed the cut out parts (both from the main fabric and the lining parts) onto the padding polyester and cut them out exactly along the contour. Each detail was insulated with synthetic padding. For the convenience of sewing in the zipper, I did not cut out the backing for the zipper from padding polyester; it is better to fill it with padding polyester later.

Step 3. Since I used raincoat fabric as the main fabric, and it slides over the padding polyester, it is necessary to baste all the parts from the raincoat fabric along the edge so that the padding polyester does not get lost when sewing.

Step 4. Now you need to cut off the excess padding polyester on each part.

Step 5. We lay and baste the folds on the central lower part of the front with a fold, connect this part with the front yoke.

Step 6. We attach strips of fleece to the resulting central front part to the edges (where the zipper will be located) (the length of the strip is slightly longer than the length of the zipper, the width is 3.5 -4 cm). I did this for the convenience of inserting the zipper, and then to close the zipper so that the heat does not escape from the overalls.

Step 7 Similarly, we attach the same strips of fleece to the sides of the front to the edges (where the zipper will be located)

Step 8 Now we connect the sides of the front and the central front part (along the seams that are located below the cut for the zipper, they are marked in red in the photo). Here's what happens:

Step 9 We make cuts for the zipper. In the photo I put a zipper into the cut to show how it will be sewn in.

Step 10 Sew the back pieces along the middle seam. I stitched an elastic band to the back, stepping back from the edge of the armhole about 2-2.5 cm. The length of the elastic is 25 cm. Then you can connect the front and back parts of the overalls along the middle seam between the legs.

Step 11 We sew the sleeves to the front and back parts of the overalls. We fold the overalls and sew the sleeve seam and the side seam of the overalls (in one seam). Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of this stage.

Step 12 Let's start sewing the hood. We cut out the edging of the hood (the pattern is given above). I cut it out of faux white fur and used fleece for the lining.

Step 13 We sew out the edging of the hood.

Step 14 We sew up the seam of the hood and attach the edging to it (as shown in the photo).

Step 15 We lay a machine seam, but not where we just basted, but at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the basting seam. This is necessary in order to then insert a cord into this drawstring to tighten the hood. You can make the drawstring for the lace in a different way, as it will be more convenient for you or as you think will be more rational.

Step 16 We sew down the details of the hood, cut from fleece. We place the hoods from the main fabric and from the lining one into the other with the right side inward (as shown in the photo).

Step 17 We sweep away the details of the hood along the front edge (in the photo I am holding this place with my hand).

Step 18 Then you need to stitch this seam (shown in the photo with a red dotted line).

Step 19 We turn the hood inside out and this is what we got.

Step 20. Place the zipper backing pieces right sides together.

Step 21 We sew the backing for the zipper. Just don’t put a seam at the junction with the neckline; we will sew the hood there (in the photo this place is circled in red).

Step 22 We cut the seam allowance so that we can carefully turn it inside out.

Step 23 Turn the backing right side out and baste the edge.

Step 24 We combine the backing for the zipper with the hood: the front side of the backing is to the front side of the hood, the hood lining is to the backing lining. We baste the backing to the hood and stitch it together.

The result should be:

Step 25 Now we apply the front side of the hood to the front side of the overalls and baste them, then stitch them together (in the photo the seam is indicated by a red dotted line).

The junction of the hood, zipper backing and overalls:

Step 26 At this step the overalls look like this:

This is how the zipper will be sewn:

Step 27 Let's start sewing down the details of the lining of the overalls. I did not baste the fleece parts along the edges, since the fleece does not slip on the padding polyester.

The grinding algorithm is similar:

1. 1. We connect the front side panels and the central front part.
2. 2. We cover the cuts for the zipper.
3. 3. Sew the back pieces along the middle seam. There is no need to sharpen the elastic!
4. 4. We connect the front and back parts of the lining along the middle seam between the legs. There is no need to sew the side seams yet, they will be sewn together with the sleeve!
5. 5. We sew the sleeves to the front and back parts of the lining. Fold the lining and sew the sleeve seam and the side seam of the lining (in one seam).

This is what happens at this step:

Step 28 I made drawstrings for elastic on the sleeves and legs. To do this, you need to cut out strips from the main fabric, the width of the strip is 4-5 cm, to determine the length, measure the length of the cut of the sleeve and trouser leg with a centimeter tape and add an increase for the seam (I hope I expressed myself clearly, maybe it will be clearer in the photo). We sew it on the sides so that there are neat edges at the drawstring.

2015-12-29 Maria Novikova

Hello! My name is Maria and I am the author of this article.

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Author of the work: Kuryshkina Yu.A.

To sew the overalls I needed:

• ready-made overalls pattern (we are 6.5 months old, but I sewed a size 74 overalls for growth);
• 1.2 m of main fabric (I used raincoat fabric);
• 1.2 m of fabric for lining (I used fleece as lining fabric);
• 2 m of insulation (our winters are cold, so I made two layers of double synthetic padding);
• 2 permanent zippers 50 cm long;
• 1 cord 80 cm;
• elastic cord 1.5 m;
• 6 clamps and 6 cord ends.

I added boots and mittens to the overalls pattern (patterns are given in actual size):

I also changed the edging of the hood and the backing for the zipper (see below)

Step 1. When cutting parts from the main fabric, I made the following seam allowances (allowances are given in cm)

When cutting out the lining parts, I made all seam allowances according to 1 cm

I cut out the backing for the zipper the same way from both raincoat fabric and fleece.

Step 2. At the next step, I placed the cut out parts (both from the main fabric and the lining parts) onto the padding polyester and cut them out exactly along the contour. Each detail was insulated with synthetic padding. For the convenience of sewing in the zipper, I did not cut out the backing for the zipper from padding polyester; it is better to fill it with padding polyester later.

Step 3. Since I used raincoat fabric as the main fabric, and it slides over the padding polyester, it is necessary to baste all the parts from the raincoat fabric along the edge so that the padding polyester does not get lost when sewing.

Step 4. Now you need to cut off the excess padding polyester on each part.

Step 5. We lay and baste the folds on the central lower part of the front with a fold, connect this part with the front yoke.

Step 6. We attach strips of fleece to the resulting central front part to the edges (where the zipper will be located) (the length of the strip is slightly longer than the length of the zipper, the width is 3.5–4 cm). I did this for the convenience of inserting the zipper, and then to close the zipper so that the heat does not escape from the overalls.

Step 7 Similarly, we attach the same strips of fleece to the sides of the front to the edges (where the zipper will be located)

Step 8 Now we connect the sides of the front and the central front part (along the seams that are located below the cut for the zipper, they are marked in red in the photo). Here's what happens:

Step 9 We make cuts for the zipper. In the photo I put a zipper into the cut to show how it will be sewn in.

Step 10 Sew the back pieces along the middle seam. I stitched an elastic band to the back, stepping back from the edge of the armhole about 2-2.5 cm. The length of the elastic is 25 cm. Then you can connect the front and back parts of the overalls along the middle seam between the legs. There is no need to sew the side seams yet, they will be sewn together with the sleeve!

Step 11 We sew the sleeves to the front and back parts of the overalls. We fold the overalls and sew the sleeve seam and the side seam of the overalls (in one seam). Unfortunately, I didn’t take a photo of this stage.

Step 12 Let's start sewing the hood. We cut out the edging of the hood (the pattern is given above). I cut it out of faux white fur and used fleece for the lining.

Step 13 We sew out the edging of the hood.

Step 14 We sew up the seam of the hood and attach the edging to it (as shown in the photo).

Step 15 We lay a machine seam, but not where we just basted, but at a distance of about 1.5 cm from the basting seam. This is necessary in order to then insert a cord into this drawstring to tighten the hood. You can make the drawstring for the lace in a different way, as it will be more convenient for you or as you think will be more rational.

Step 16 We sew down the details of the hood, cut from fleece. We place the hoods from the main fabric and from the lining one into the other with the right side inward (as shown in the photo).

Step 17 We sweep away the details of the hood along the front edge (in the photo I am holding this place with my hand).

Step 18 Then you need to stitch this seam (shown in the photo with a red dotted line).

Step 19 We turn the hood inside out and this is what we got.

Step 20. Place the zipper backing pieces right sides together.

Step 21 We sew the backing for the zipper. Just don’t put a seam at the junction with the neckline; we will sew the hood there (in the photo this place is circled in red).

Step 22 We cut the seam allowance so that we can carefully turn it inside out.

Step 23

Step 24

Step 23Turn the backing right side out and baste the edge.

Step 24We combine the backing for the zipper with the hood: the front side of the backing is to the front side of the hood, the hood lining is to the backing lining. We baste the backing to the hood and stitch it together.

The result should be:

Step 25 Now we apply the front side of the hood to the front side of the overalls and baste them, then stitch them together (in the photo the seam is indicated by a red dotted line).

The junction of the hood, zipper backing and overalls:

Step 26

This is how the zipper will be sewn:

Step 27 Let's start sewing down the details of the lining of the overalls. I did not baste the fleece parts along the edges, since the fleece does not slip on the padding polyester.

The grinding algorithm is similar:

1. 1. Connect the front sides and the central front part.
2. 2. We cover the cuts for the zipper.
3. 3. Sew the back pieces along the middle seam. There is no need to sharpen the elastic!
4. 4. We connect the front and back parts of the lining along the middle seam between the legs. There is no need to sew the side seams yet, they will be sewn together with the sleeve!
5. 5. Sew the sleeves to the front and back parts of the lining. Fold the lining and sew the sleeve seam and the side seam of the lining (in one seam).

This is what happens at this step:

Step 28 I made drawstrings for elastic on the sleeves and legs. To do this, you need to cut out strips from the main fabric, the width of the strip is 4-5 cm, to determine the length, measure the length of the cut of the sleeve and trouser leg with a centimeter tape and add an increase for the seam (I hope I expressed myself clearly, maybe it will be clearer in the photo). We sew it on the sides so that there are neat edges at the drawstring.

Step 29 We attach the drawstrings to the sleeves and trouser legs.

Step 30. We sew down the side parts of the boots, baste them to the legs of the overalls and attach them.

Step 31 We baste and attach the trace.

Step 32

Step 33 We wash and grind off the mittens.

Step 34 We insert the mitten into the sleeve, baste and stitch.

Step 35. Turn it inside out. Here's what we got:

Repeat steps 30-35 for lining the overalls

Step 36 At this step the overalls look like this:

Step 37 We combine the front side of the overalls lining and the front side of the hood lining, baste them and sew them (in the photo the seam is indicated by a red dotted line).

Here's what happened:

Step 38 We connect the front side of the main fabric yoke with the front side of the lining yoke, baste and stitch.

Turn it inside out. Here's what happened:

Step 39 We insert the lining into the overalls. We make stitches by hand in several places, thereby connecting the overalls from the main fabric and the lining (the stitches should be free). This is necessary so that the lining does not get lost. You definitely need to connect the boots and mittens, the rest is at your discretion, but it is better to connect them in several more places, so the lining will be securely fixed in the overalls.

Step 40. We insert the zipper into the slit and baste it to the front side of the overalls (don’t touch the lining yet). It is advisable that the zipper teeth be covered with fabric.

Step 41 Attaching the zipper. My fabric shifted a little during stitching, so the zipper teeth were not completely covered by the fabric, although I intended to close them completely. But it’s okay, the backing for the zipper will save us in this case, it is quite wide, inserted from the inside, so it will block the zipper and press against it.

Step 42 We baste the lining to the zipper from the wrong side of the overalls (on one side we baste it to the backing for the zipper, on the other side to the zipper itself)

Step 43 We trim the seam of the backing for the zipper and stuff it with padding polyester, but not too tightly. Then we sew this place with hidden stitches.

44. We insert the lace into the drawstring of the hood and sew the button to the backing for the zipper.

Attention! Make sure that when the backings for the zipper are fastened to the button and the zippers on the overalls are fastened, the yoke should fit snugly against the backings, otherwise there will be a free space and heat will escape from the overalls.

Step 45. We insert elastic bands into the drawstrings on the sleeves and legs (you can insert laces as you like). They play more of a decorative function.

The jumpsuit is ready!

Daughter in new overalls!