Distance at the 12th fret on an acoustic guitar. Adjusting the scale, string height, and neck deflection on an electric guitar

Detailed knowledge about the structure of the guitar will never be superfluous. Plus, learning guitar is a lot of fun. This step-by-step guide will help you fine-tune your guitar yourself. As with anything, you will need good tools.

Steps

Neck setup

Check if the bar is straight. Inspect the neck for any bowing or bending. For more accurate results, use a ruler. Make sure one end of the ruler touches the first fret and the other end touches the last fret. Check along both the first string and the last string to make sure the neck is not twisted on its axis.

• It's good if the neck is slightly concave. Guitar makers say that the slight deflection reduces stress on the neck and allows strings to be pressed at all frets. When checking such a bar with a ruler, you may notice that there is a small gap between its working edge and the bar. But if the neck bends in the opposite direction, it will be almost impossible to play on such a guitar, and it will have to be taken to a master.

The distance between the fingerboard and the strings.

In this article, we'll look at some of the improvements you can make to your guitar. Let's look at the simplest thing that can be changed in a guitar - this. The more, the more effort is required on the left hand in order to press the strings. Therefore, too long a distance is undesirable for the game. When playing at a fast tempo, low strings are much better, but if the strings are too low, rattling occurs. Many guitarists, when playing with slides (sliding technique), make the strings higher than when playing with their fingers. This is necessary so that the slide does not touch the fret partitions. It is very convenient to measure the distance between the fingerboard and the strings using a ruler with small divisions.
The distance is measured at the 12th fret, between the partition and the delicate surface of the string. Typically, guitarists are rarely interested in the distance in mm; they set the strings at such a height that the strings do not rattle.
In other words, they go through trial and error. I personally think this is a more complex and time-consuming method. Still, it is better to use a measuring device.
The distance that should be between the fret and the string:

• Acoustic guitar – 2 – 3 mm

• Electric guitar - 1 - 2 mm

The height of the strings is adjusted using a tailpiece. In electric guitars, each string has its own support, which can be adjusted using a screwdriver.

Acoustic guitars have a tailpiece made of bone. There are models in which the tailpieces have screws on the sides, with which you can lift the tailpiece.

If you want to change the distance between the neck and one string, then in this case it is better to take the guitar to a specialist.

The consequence of the change between the fingerboard and the string is a change in the length of the sounding part of the string. No matter how small this change is, it has a very significant effect on the intonation of the guitar.
The clean sound of a guitar directly depends on nut distance to 12th fret The main thing is that this distance is equal to the distance from the 12th fret to the nut.
You can check the intonation by taking the sound on an open string and then pressing it at the 12th fret. If the sound between these notes is not equal to an octave, then without further improvement it will be impossible tune your guitar.
There is another way to check intonation - take the sound of an open string and compare it with a harmonic on the same string, which can be removed above the 12th fret. The sounds must also match.

If the sound at the 12th fret is too high, then the sounding part of the string is short and needs to be lengthened by shifting the lower fulcrum (bottom nut). On most electric guitars, the length of each string is adjusted separately, with the bridge divided into sections, one for each string. The length of each string is adjusted using a wrench and a screwdriver. In many cases, moving the screwdriver clockwise shortens the sounding part of the string.

To better understand how to tune a guitar, you need to try, think, and take your time.

The most common “finishing” of a guitar at home is lowering the strings.
Few people are content with the standard value of 3.7 mm at the 12th fret. You always want less, even less, more and more - until the strings begin to “get along”. And then the fine-tuning begins in a new circle, but with lamentations about poor-quality factory assembly.

Let's try to talk about what we think is the most rational way to reduce the height of the strings.

There is nothing complicated about it. There is only a strict sequence of actions. And, of course, accuracy. It is important to remember that haste is needed for a completely different matter.

First of all, let's agree that we have a standard situation, in which the height of the bone (bridge) is sufficient for maneuver, and the neck is without defects and straight.

Let's immediately measure the height of the sixth (thickest) string above the 12th fret nut.
This height is measured in one single way - from the TOP OF THE FRETS to the BOTTOM OF THE STRING. There are no other ways. There is no need to invent anything.
We take a plumber's (metal) ruler, where the zero is flush, and place it with a zero BEHIND the sixth string - right on the fret. This is the best way to see it. And look at the distance from the top of the nut to the bottom of the string.

Let's assume that we got it - 3.5 mm.

We need:
Loosen the strings enough to:

1. don't remove it completely, but


2. just free the fretboard from them, fixing them somewhere below with a clothespin, wire - in any way.

Next step.
Controlling with a ruler, we align the neck using an anchor. The bar should be as straight as possible. Not every instrument allows you to achieve a perfectly straight neck. We will try, in any case, to ensure that the bending is minimal, and best of all, that there is no bending at all.

Now let's adjust the height of the bone.
We take as a basis the initial height of the strings above the 12th fret nut. As we remember, we got 3.5 mm. And we want, again let’s assume, 2.5 mm.
You need to remove 1 mm.

We are not in a hurry to immediately grind down the bone by 1 mm. What we want is not the same as what we get. It may be that we can lower the strings even lower, or it may happen that we stop at fractions of a millimeter.

It is enough to grind off half a millimeter at a time.
Grind on any flat abrasive surface. You can take sandpaper and fix it on a flat block, you can use a file, or a grinding wheel. Anything will do, as long as the abrasive surface is perfectly smooth.

We grind down the bone little by little, periodically returning it to its place and tightening the strings. You don't have to tighten all the strings - the three thickest ones are enough. They have the greatest amplitude of vibrations and it is with them that problems arise with touching the frets.

Now, attention! - the principle is this:
You need to grind down the bone exactly until the strings begin to “get along” a little, i.e. touch the frets. For each guitarist, this moment will occur differently, depending on the individual playing style and the strength of the attack.
A guitarist with an expressive playing technique should not even think about setting the strings too low. The laws of physics cannot be changed. The amplitude of string vibrations should not exceed the distance of the string to the frets.

So.
We ground down the bone with a straight neck so much that the strings began to “get along” a little.
Great.
We install all the strings back, put them in the usual tuning, and then again give the neck time to react - this time to the pressure of the strings, bending it towards the body. Two hours will be enough.

After two hours, we adjust the strings and check. It may well happen that our strings, which previously “got along” a little, will no longer “get along”, because the bar went a little towards the body and raised them.
If this does not happen and the strings still “get along”, we again take the anchor key in our hands and begin to very carefully pull the neck towards the body. No sudden movements - just a little, a quarter turn at a time.
We need such a bend in the neck that the strings stop touching the frets.

Once this happens - congratulations! - adjustment is completed. The resulting distance is the minimum for your guitar and your playing style.
You will no longer be able to lower them to a lower distance.

This method is suitable for both acoustic and classical Crusader guitars, because... all of them are equipped with anchors. For some classical guitars that do not have a truss rod, the method of lowering the string height will be different.

Fine-tuning an electric guitar is a much more complex process than tuning an acoustic one. This is due to the large number of mechanisms and parts in the Electra, which require additional adjustment. In this article we will look step by step at how to properly tune all the necessary elements of an electric guitar.

Anchor adjustment

An anchor is a long metal rod located inside the neck that regulates its deflection and prevents deformation under the tension of the strings. Most often, it is tuned well and there is no need to touch it, but if the guitar rattles with average playing strength, then you will have to tinker.

When the truss rod is not adjusted correctly, the neck becomes concave or curved. This results in string chatter (if the neck is curved) or a large distance between the strings and the neck (if the neck is concave), making it more difficult to play.

How to understand that it is the anchor that is “to blame”? There is a special test for this: clamp any string on the first fret and the same at the place where the neck is attached to the body (approximately 20-21 frets). Now look at the distance between the 7th fret nut and the string. Ideally, it is 1-3 millimeters. If this is not the case, then you will have to adjust the anchor. To do this you need to follow the following algorithm:

1. Loosen all strings.
2. Unscrew the bolts on the curtain.
3. Insert the hex key and tighten the anchor.

Which way should I turn the key? Clockwise – straightening the bar, counter – arching. If there is anything still unclear to you, we have posted an online video with a detailed description below.

Important! Turn the keys very slowly and carefully until you achieve the desired result. Sometimes turning the key 2-3 degrees is enough to get the desired effect.

After working with the truss rod, you can tune the guitar and start playing. But, there is a high probability that in a couple of days you will have to resort to tuning again, since the strings will create pressure which can lead to slight deformation. There's nothing wrong with that.

If you did everything correctly, but the strings are still rattling or only part of the strings are rattling, there are several reasons for this:

• The strings need to be replaced because their winding is worn out (if the strings are more than 6 months old);
• The guitar bridge is not set up correctly. It may be higher or lower than normal;
• the saddles on the bridge are not adjusted correctly, they may be lowered;
• the top of the neck is worn out, or it is not from this guitar;
• neck deformation. This can only be solved by replacing the neck.

String height adjustment

If everything is fine with the neck, but the guitar still rattles, then you should try adjusting the height of the strings. The higher they are raised above the bar, the less likely they are to rattle and the more difficult they are to clamp.

2.0 mm

Before you begin, be sure to loosen the strings. After this, you can begin adjusting the height of the saddle. Many guitarists ask how to determine the optimal height? There is no answer to this question. It all depends on the characteristics of your sound production. The harder you play and the harder you play, the higher the height should be so that the strings do not hit the saddle. However, remember that the greater the distance to the strings, the more difficult it is to press them. For beginners, it is always recommended to set the minimum height. The attached video will help you understand unclear points.

Scale adjustment

The scale is the distance between the upper and lower saddle, in other words, the working length of the string, that is, the one that is directly involved in the “sound”. The purity of the guitar's sound depends on how well the scale is adjusted. Most guitars are 25.5" or 24.7" long. When purchased, it is roughly configured and you often have to configure it yourself.

What to do if the guitar is still out of tune? Most likely, it will have to be carried to the workshop. There is a high probability that the problem lies in the incorrect placement of the nuts, bridge, or incorrect markings of the frets. It often happens that the frets wear out and the point of contact between the string and the nut changes. In this case, it will not be possible to accurately adjust the scale; it is necessary to grind and polish the frets again. All the most important points are discussed online in the video attached below.

Replacing strings

Another important point that all guitarists have to face sooner or later is. This process is simple, but still has its own nuances.

In the table below, we have given the approximate number of turns of strings on the pegs. This is not important, but will serve as a guide for beginners on how long the string should be left. This is not an absolute truth and following this rule will not affect the guitar in any way.

And finally, a small life hack. To make your strings last longer, you need to take care of them. The biggest problem is the deposits of pieces of skin and sweat on the strings, which, interacting with the guitar, destroy the structure of the string, oxidizing the metal. This reduces the service life of the strings. To slow down this process, always approach the instrument with clean hands and wipe the strings with alcohol at least once a week.

You can also watch the online video if any points are unclear.

Well, that's all the information that may be useful to you when tuning your guitar. Perhaps tuning an electric guitar seems complicated: adjusting the truss rod, string height, scale, but if you figure out the network, it turns out that everything is not so difficult and even brings pleasure! Thank you for reading the article, we hope that you found answers to all your questions. If anything is still unclear, ask in the comments below. Join our VKontakte group, where you will find even more useful and fresh materials for guitarists. Bye!

Greetings, beginner guitarists! You don't know how to properly adjust the bridge and the height of the strings above the neck of the guitar? Well, if so, then today I will try to help you deal with this issue. There is nothing complicated here, you just need a little perseverance and free time, because this procedure requires tuning not only the bridge itself, but also the structure of the guitar as a whole. After reading this article, all you have to do is follow all the steps described below and easily apply this knowledge in the future.

Where to begin?

Before you start making bridge adjustments, you need to make sure that the guitar is tuned in the key you are used to playing. But still, it is better to make adjustments in the standard key (E).

The next thing to do is measure the distance (height) from the string to the 12th fret, and this must be repeated with each string, from 1 before 6 . The received data needs to be written down on paper and already figured out what to do next.

What string height do we need?

Important! Depending on your style of playing the guitar, you can raise it, but lowering it is not recommended, because the string needs space to vibrate, otherwise the sound will be inexpressive and dull.

0.8 mm– this height is set by those guitarists who prefer high-speed playing and, accordingly, ease of pressing the strings to the neck. But at such a height, it is necessary to take into account that it is quite difficult to perform such an adjustment, because it is extremely important to prevent the strings from rattling on the frets. If the rattling cannot be eliminated, and you want to lower the strings, then you will have to sand and level the frets.

1.2 mm– but this string height is considered normal for most guitarists, because This distance will allow you to play the guitar quite comfortably and quickly. This is, so to speak, the golden mean.

2nd– for lovers of a higher position and larger gauge (diameter) of strings, but here you need to take into account that the greater the height, the more difficult it is to press the strings to the frets.

Another important detail is the radius of the neck, and also, not unimportantly, the style of your guitar playing. If the fingerboard has a small radius, as is found on most Stratocasters, and you sometimes like to bend in the top positions, then you will most likely need to raise 2 And 3 string in order to avoid rattling during the same bends.

Let's start adjusting the bridge

Once you have already decided on the required string height, taking into account all the previously made and recorded measurements, you can begin adjusting the bridge. If you need to lower or raise all the strings at the same time, then you will have to adjust the height of the bridge, unless of course its design allows this. Another option is to adjust the height of one or several strings individually.

Below are the most common bridges installed on many modern electric guitars. Let's look at them in more detail.

Tune-o-matic

On this Gibson bridge, the string height is adjusted using two wheels located at the edges directly below it. In the image below, these wheels are indicated by an arrow.

Hardtail

This Telecaster bridge offers individual height adjustment for each string. This is done using two adjusting screws, which are located on each saddle. Take the hexagon and turn these screws until you achieve the desired height of the saddle and the entire bridge as a whole.

Vintage Tremolo

The classic Strat tremolo is adjusted similarly to the Telecaster bridge, i.e. Here you can also individually adjust each string's height using the same tuning screws on each saddle, and for this you will need an Allen wrench.

Floyd Rose

The height of the strings on a floating Floyd Rose is adjusted using the tremolo support screws (they are indicated by an arrow in the figure). By rotating these screws clockwise, you will lower it, and vice versa, counterclockwise, the tremolo will rise.

When you have made all the necessary adjustments and set the height of the strings to a comfortable height for yourself, after that you need to completely check the neck of the guitar for rattling - we clamp each string on each fret and see if it rattles in any place. If rattling is present, then in this case you first need to determine its cause and only then try to eliminate it by making the appropriate adjustments.

As practice and many years of experience show, there is always string chatter regardless of adjustment, it just may not be very noticeable. A slight rattle, in my opinion, is not so bad. But keep in mind the main thing - it should not get into the amp or amplifier and spoil the overall sound of the guitar.

What else do you need to know about adjustment?

On breeches like Tune— o— Matic, and FloydRose, the base on which the saddles are mounted is specifically designed to match the fingerboard radius on the bar. And that’s why adjusting the height of each individual string is possible if you put a spacer under the Floyd Rose saddle, but on the Tune-o-Matic you will have to replace the saddle blade, which is quite problematic. At least I have not yet seen saddles of different sizes for such a bridge.

On VintageTremolo and breeches Hardtail You will have to adjust two tuning screws for each string to the same height, and relative to each other. It is also important that all saddles are level and not skewed in any direction.

If you own an electric guitar, the neck of which is bolted on, and adjusting the bridge height did not allow you to lower the strings to a comfortable level without causing chatter, then in this case you need to place a pad under the heel of the neck and re-adjust the bridge.

That's all! As you can see, adjusting the bridge and the height of the strings above the neck of the guitar is quite simple, try it and you will definitely succeed. If you have anything to add or ask, you can leave your comment below and I will definitely answer you. Subscribe to site updates to always be aware of events. Share with your friends on social networks, I will be very grateful to you for it!