Fashion subculture in Great Britain. Project "Men's youth fashion as a subculture"

The influence of subcultures on fashion cannot be overestimated - there is no need to dwell on the role of fashion, glam rock, punk and the Vivienne Westwood party of the 70s, hip-hop and or grunge of the 90s. Many designers from the mid-1960s to the present day are inspired by the style of individual communities united by cultural code, ideology and appearance (the fashion industry has always strived to unite people in a similar way). Now completely non-obvious examples are being used. We talk about lesser-known but influential subcultures - from Mexican cholos to psychedelic adepts of the 1970s - and how they influenced today's fashion trends.

Text: Alena Belaya

Cholo

The roots of the Cholo subculture are in the young generation of immigrants from Mexico who settled in the United States a generation or two ago. Initially, the term was used to refer to the local population of South and Central America, but in the 1960s, “cholos” began to refer to the working class of Mexicans living in the States and representatives of their civil rights movement, the Chicano Movement. Actually, at the same time, in the 1960s, the designation “cholo” was picked up by criminal youth and began to be used for self-identification - this is how an independent subculture was formed.

At first, only guys belonged to the cholo, they wore baggy pants, alcoholic T-shirts and sports sneakers (still among the popular cholo brands are Dickies, Ben Davis and Lowrider), but gradually the girls also picked up the style. In fact, the female version of the cholo differs only in the make-up: arched tattooed eyebrows, lips outlined with a dark pencil, cat eyes, plus a characteristic hairstyle with a high bouffant above the forehead and a manicure that Lena Lenina herself would envy.

Cholo as a subculture has taken a lot from underground hip-hop, so chola girls hang themselves with gold trinkets of varying degrees for their sweet souls (but guys, by the way, not so much). Gradually, from the urban culture of low-income areas of Los Angeles and San Diego, the cholo subculture became mainstream, which was picked up first in pop culture (Fergie and Gwen Stefani were among the first), then in fashion. As a result, stylist Mel Ottenberg creates a chola girl out of Rihanna, Dazed & Confused magazine shoots in the cholo spirit, and designers dedicate collections to chola girls - just remember Rodarte and Nasir Mazhar for the spring-summer 2014 season.

LGBT hip-hop

LGBT hip-hop, or, as it is also called, homo-hop, appeared at the dawn of the 1990s in California. Initially, homo-hop was not positioned as a separate musical direction, but served to designate the LGBT community on the hip-hop scene. The term itself was introduced by Tim'm T. West, a member of the Deep Dickollective team. Having loudly declared itself in the 1990s, homo-hop died down for a while at the beginning of the new millennium (with the exception, perhaps, of the documentary “Pick Up the Mic” with the participation of the main homo-hop artists of our time), only to be revived with the advent of the 2010s.

The new generation of hip-hop artists not only did not hide their non-traditional sexual orientation (Frank Ocean became one of the first African-American performers to come out, and Azealia Banks does not hide her bisexual inclinations), but also actively, often in lyrics, supported LGBT people -movement. It is noteworthy that initially homo-hoppers, in general, did not have any special distinctive signs in terms of clothing, and straight artists flirted with drag culture: from Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five to World Class Wreckin’ Cru. Nevertheless, some conservatives are confident that Kanye West and Trinidad James, who perform in skirts, are the result of the spread of the gay movement in the hip-hop ranks, and no worse than Rihanna, who twerks in microshorts and bicycle shorts Le1f- a living example of discrimination against masculinity in general and in hip-hop in particular.

In recent years, men's fashion in general has been striving to gradually erase gender boundaries - from the main conductor of street culture into the luxury industry, Riccardo Tisci, who brought male models to the catwalk in skirts, to the latest men's shows. For example, Loewe under the leadership of the new creative director Jonathan Anderson or the absolutely wonderful Christophe Lemaire, after viewing which the girls create impressive wish lists.

Casuals

Casuals emerged from the British subculture in the late 1980s, when football hooligans abandoned fan uniforms in favor of designer items and expensive sportswear to avoid attracting police attention. The style that casuals began to exploit appeared much earlier - back in the days of the teddy boys of the 1950s and the mods of the early 1960s. Having collected and digested the subcultural heritage of their predecessors, casuals developed their own visual formula: straight-leg Fiorucci jeans, adidas, Gola or Puma sneakers, Lacoste polo shirt and Gabicci cardigan.

It is believed that the London hooligans were introduced to the European street fashion of that time by fans of the Liverpool football club, who accompanied their favorite team to all European outings and brought back from their trips heaps of clothes from expensive sports brands (at that time - adidas or Sergio Tacchini). In the late 1990s, football fans gradually moved away from the original casual look, and expensive designer brands, in turn, removed items associated with casual from sale (in particular, Burberry faced a problem with their signature check).

The movement began to experience another upsurge in the mid-2000s, and nowadays casuals are not even always devoted football fans, but the look is still the same as it was at the dawn: skinny jeans, a Palace T-shirt, a classic Reebok model. This image (let’s call it “laconic and neat”) can now be seen on Topman mannequins, and on the catwalks of Burberry Prorsum and Paul Smith, and in the subcultural context, lad casual is called a substitute for ultra-masculine heritage and sloppy hipsterism.

We have already talked more than once about how great the influence of sports is on modern fashion: things that were originally intended for working out in a fitness club now fit quite organically into the urban environment, and heels are giving way to comfortable shoes like sneakers, sneakers and slip-ons. The history of the interpenetration of fashion and sports can be observed from the middle of the 19th century: in 1849, Water-ure Journal published an article calling on women to abandon the heavy crinolines that were fashionable at that time in favor of clothes that would give more freedom of movement. Two years later, the famous feminist Amelia Bloomer appeared in public wearing a knee-length skirt and wide pants like Turkish bloomers, later named after her - bloomers.

However, bloomers experienced a real boom only in the 1890s, when women began to master cycling, which was then popular. Further echoes of the sports theme appeared in the collections of Gabrielle Chanel (the same jersey material and models inspired by tennis uniforms), and Elsa Schiaparelli (her collection Pour le Sport), and later - Emilio Pucci (skiing clothing), Yves Saint Laurent (a suit for hunting, in particular, a Norfolk jacket), Azzedine Alaïa and Roy Halston (a bikini-like top), Karl Lagerfeld (a surfing-themed 1991 spring-summer collection for Chanel), Donna Karan (dresses from the early 1990s- x made of neoprene) and many others.

Separately, in this chronology it is worth highlighting the 1970s - the era when sports became an important and fashionable part of the lifestyle. By the end of the decade, everyone was literally obsessed with aerobics and jogging, not only for objective health reasons, but also because it was considered sexy, and fashion, in turn, became the platform where sports and sex merged into a single whole. Thus, in the field of fashion design, fleece, lycra, terry, polyurethane, parachute fabric began to be actively used, and girls wore plastic visors as a fashion accessory.

With the beginning of the new century, sports continued to run like a red thread through fashion collections almost every season, but the next serious wave of popularity came in 2012, which many associate, in particular, with the London Olympics. With enviable popularity, collaborations between sports brands and fashion designers began to appear: adidas with Stella McCartney, Jeremy Scott and Mary Katrantzou, Nike with Riccardo Tisci, and the catwalks were clearly influenced by sports style - just remember the collections of the same Stella for the FW 2012 seasons. 2013 and SS 2013, Alexander Wang for his own brand in the SS12 season and this spring for Balenciaga, Givenchy as the main promoter of sweatshirts of all stripes, Prada and Emilio Pucci for the SS14 season. In general, the list can be continued endlessly. One thing is obvious - everything together has led to the fact that today sportswear is widely perceived as inseparable from everyday life.

Psychedelia

Psychotropic drugs became part of subcultural life in the USA and Great Britain in the mid-1960s: in general, the ideology of psychedelic adherents was expressed in opposition to the Western world of consumerism and, naturally, an attempt to escape from reality. After the “Summer of Love” that happened in 1967, the counterculture finally took shape in the hippie movement, which elevated not only the principles of peace and love into a cult, but also the widespread use of psychotropic substances, such as LSD.

Being in a state of altered consciousness, in particular, implied a hypertrophied perception of colors, textures and pictures and significantly influenced the formation of a typical hippie image and the development of graphics: acidic shades, smooth, seemingly flowing silhouettes, and textured fabrics were used. By the way, the popularity of the traditional Indian paisley pattern was explained by the same thing - during a drug trip, multi-colored “cucumbers” formed into cool pictures. In short, all clothing techniques served to make psychedelic experiences even more spectacular.

The main purveyors of psychedelic fashion were the Paraphernalia boutiques in New York and Granny Takes a Trip in London, where items designed by Thea Porter, Zandra Rhodes, Jean Muir and Ozzy Clark were sold. The legacy of psychedelics can be considered the raver movement of the late 1980s with its acid-colored T-shirts, hellish tie-dye and plastic jewelry - all these tricks were once adopted by both Franco Moschino and Gianni Versace.

The modern fashion of psychedelic aesthetics has also not been spared - mostly in the form of neon colors, which since 2007 began to appear in collections with enviable consistency. However, not only them: if you think about it, the much-loved (today, however, not so much) kaleidoscopic digital prints are nothing more than echoes of the psychedelic-friendly patterns of the 1970s, as well as the return of tie-dye items and the style of the 70s generally. In particular, the widespread use of optical prints in the autumn collections of this year.

Now let’s try to figure out how such different, and in some ways even opposite, concepts are connected. So, the youth subculture is most often the result of a young person’s dissatisfaction with what is happening in society. This is an attempt to follow your own ideology, to create your own world. A person chooses what is closer to him, what he likes, plus the subculture gives young people the much-needed opportunity for self-realization and self-expression. The key word here is “young”. Young people, due to their psychological and social characteristics, are the most active part of the population. She easily accepts everything new. She is characterized by creative activity and initiative. Young people are not afraid of change, but rather strive for it. Young people are the main consumers of fashion. Another feature of young people is that their critical thinking is just beginning to form; they can be influenced, and the media is especially successful in doing this. Therefore, it is difficult to say whether demand creates supply, or supply creates demand. Be that as it may, the majority of young people are influenced by fashion. It is also noticeable that young people react faster to changes in fashion than the general population. This trend can be especially clearly seen in the appearance of young people. It would seem that not so long ago everyone was wearing flared trousers, and then gradually moved to black and skinny ones. As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct of imitation. This is one of the contradictions inherent in youth - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out.

This contradiction is resolved thanks to subculture. For example, a Goth among “his own people” will be like everyone else, but in comparison with people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep.” The goal has been achieved, he will be noticed.

Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, be it music, clothing or lifestyle.

No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from the common basic culture, it is very difficult to become completely autonomous.

For a teenager of the 50s, rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture arose. And among young people it has become really fashionable.

The beatniks demonstrated their difference from the rest precisely in their indifference to style, as such, which is also a style. They were very dismissive of their appearance. The young ladies who listened to “savage music” themselves looked like both savages and “pin-up girls” at the same time: a lot of bright cosmetics, defiantly open tight-fitting blouses, narrow skirts with a slit or fluffy “sun-flares,” etc. Similar silhouettes are found in modern fashion...

In the 60s, the subculture “Modos” (Fashion) arose. Fashion picks up the dandy way of dressing from the “Teddy Boys” (1950). Their motto is “moderation and accuracy!” The mods wore perfectly fitting suits, a chemical miracle of the early 60s - snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, rapidly developing in this decade, also has its influence on the classic houses of Haute Couture. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “pumps” with low heels, etc.

The fashion of the late 1960s was influenced by a new youth subculture - the “hippies”. The diffuse hippie style brought into fashion bright ethnic motifs from eastern countries, a deliberate effect of shabbyness and, above all, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against the bourgeois uniform. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes of different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value of old clothes. This is where the worn effect and ripped jeans come from.

Modern fashion is becoming more and more democratic; it no longer imposes strict rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so previously popular items often get a second life. And if you reconstruct the history of this or that thing, you can find connections with a wide variety of subcultures.

It is known that some subcultures continue to live to this day, while others cease to exist. This also has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion. Fashion quickly responds to the changing needs of young people. And sometimes it anticipates their change, creating new ones. If something ceases to be relevant, it disappears from everyday life into history. Pagers, for example, can now only be found in a museum, but once upon a time it was fashionable. The situation is the same with subcultures. The Zooties, rockabillies, beatniks, hippies (if they exist, then very few) have long disappeared. But now such a subculture as emo, for example, has gained enormous popularity among young people. This conclusion can be drawn from the abundance of young people dressed in this style. People who don’t consider themselves emo dress this way too, they just think it’s beautiful. The hairstyles that came into fashion thanks to this subculture also caught on very well.

There are many representatives of hip-hop culture and various branches of rock culture. This conclusion is also based on daily observations. Such subcultures owe their mass popularity to the fashion created by youth media.

Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field.

Fashion often gives rise to subcultures. As an example, let’s take the “hipsters” subculture. It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. This subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle as a standard. Hipsters stood out with their bright clothes and original manner of speaking (special slang). They had a special interest in Western music and dance. Western fashion still has a huge influence on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to remember at least one subculture that originally arose in Russia. Basically they all came to us from the West.

Another subculture directly related to fashion is hipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from the English word hip, which translates as “to be in the know.” Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.

No matter how representatives of a particular subculture try to stand out and deviate from official fashion, the end result is that the more widespread a subculture becomes, the greater the chance that it will be fashionable and vice versa, the more fashionable a subculture is among young people, the more widespread it will be.

Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as mentioned earlier, fashion is not only about clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.

Subcultures of 20th century England. Style, ideology.

Introduction. Subculture concept

Subculture(Latin sub - under and cultura - culture; subculture) - a concept denoting a part of the culture of a society that differs in its behavior from the prevailing majority, as well as social groups of bearers of this culture. The concept of “subculture” usually expresses an opinion strictly opposite to the ideas of morality and the laws of society; young people who wanted self-expression also needed to distinguish “us” from “strangers”, dividing according to musical, fashion and life preferences. This phenomenon became especially widespread after the end of the war, when 70% of young people joined one or another subculture. This article examined the most vibrant and significant subcultures of England in the twentieth century.

In the mental map you can see a larger number of subcultures of England of the twentieth century, as well as those that were studied in more detail in the article.

Using the Venngage infographic resource, the most important aspects of the style, values, worldview and image of the three subcultures under study are clearly and concisely displayed.

Teddy boys

British researchers name the first youth subcultural group «" Teddy boys"» . This group announced itself in the middle 1950 -s. " Teddy", earning extra money for their pocket money through unskilled labor, they became relatively financially independent from their families and could spend this money on their own needs. Their needs were small: cafes, cinema, discos. But their main cultural niche was American rock and roll. As English scientists note, the appearance of “ Teddy“combined the features of an English gentleman and an American sharpie: a long drape jacket with a velvet collar, piped trousers, micro-pore boots, and a lace tie. " Teddy“were troublemakers in British peace in cinemas and dance halls, where they actively mastered rock and roll. This process often ended in mass fights and acts of vandalism. " Teddy“were conservative values, sometimes they were characterized by aggressive nationalism (race riots). " Teddy"disappeared to 1964. However, it was they who spoke about youth not as an age group, but as a social group.

Mods

"British phenomenon" - fashion- appeared in 1962. But there is an opinion that the first mention of fashions in the media in 1962-63 years was, in fact, not the beginning of the movement, but its swan song. It was then that ideology was sacrificed for popularization and accessibility. Mods lived in their own small world, where only a select few ended up. And it was enough to exchange a few words, take a quick glance at the clothes to understand whether it was “yours” or not. It was then that what later came to be called the “dress code” of youth subcultures appeared. They despised mass culture, designed for the “average man in the street”; for them this very term was humiliating. But, despite all these conventions, it cannot be said that mods had its own manifesto.

The main goal was to simply live and get the most out of life, and to live only as they saw fit.

Many of them, at the first opportunity, left their parents’ house and rented some rundown house on the outskirts or even in the suburbs for little money. Housing was not the main item of their expenses - the lion's share of their earnings went to clothes, music and scooters.

Mods, the so-called first wave, preferred to listen to American black jazz, blues and soul - then these were similar styles, and they were often simply called soul. Of the British performers, they were interested in the work of Georgie Fame, Chris Farlowe, Zoot Money Big Roll Band, Long John Baldry, Graham Bond Organization, etc. The discs of these record companies were initially rare in Foggy Albion; one could be proud of them no less than the road clothes and a good scooter. In general, records in mod culture were and remain one of the most valuable fetishes.

Punks

Can't be ignored punk culture. Word " punk" has multiple meanings in English, but before punk rock it was mostly used as a swear word.

Exactly first wave punk In Great Britain ( 1976 -1978 ) counts punk era and is considered by most researchers. Two main trends can be identified in it. Firstly, there was "core" of punk- an environment in which the proclaimed slogans were the center of worldview and social action. This environment can be confidently attributed to the phenomenon of counterculture, to protest formation. On the other hand, the idea of punk is being used, pseudo-punks, using the language of the subculture, its style, but ignoring its ideological content. The purpose of such cultural formations is to make money and vulgarize the concepts of culture Punka. In this case, they can be defined as phenomena of mass culture.

Punks are colorful and shocking image. Many punks dye their hair bright, unnatural colors, comb it and fix it with hairspray, gel or beer so that it stands up straight. In the 80s, the mohawk hairstyle became fashionable among punks. Sneakers are also popular among punks. Biker jacket - was adopted as a rock and roll attribute from 50's, when motorcycle and rock 'n' roll were inseparable components. The first wave of punks sought to return to rock music the same deliberate cockiness and drive that the mass commercialization of music had taken away over time. The “DEAD” style prevails in clothing. Punks put skulls and signs on clothes and accessories, wear wristbands and collars made of leather with spikes, rivets and chains. Many punks get tattoos. Representatives of this movement love torn, frayed jeans, and attach chains from dog leashes to jeans. The American group "Ramones" is considered the first group to play music in the "punk rock" style. The first British punk bands are recognized as the Sex Pistols, The Damned and The Clash.

Items of clothing

With the help of the WordItOut resource, it was possible to investigate which elements of clothing these three subcultures paid the most or least attention to.

At this point word cloud you can see the differences and similarities of the subcultures being studied. For the study, a text was taken that collected the main features of the style and images of Teddy, Mods and Punks. Considering similarities and differences data on youth trends of the twentieth century, we can conclude that In all three subcultures, special attention was paid to shoes, and in particular to boots.

Influence on modern culture

Having considered just a few informal youth movements in Great Britain, one can see a strong influence on the younger generation as a whole. Teenagers have always constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays a big role in the development of a student. " Youth subculture"- a system of values and norms of behavior, tastes, forms of communication, different from the culture of adults and characterizing the life of adolescents and young people from about 10 to 20 years old.

Informal youth movements have received noticeable development in 20th century. Youth subculture, being one of the institutions and factors in the socialization of schoolchildren, plays controversial role and has an ambiguous effect on adolescents. The youth subculture wears entertainment and consumer character, and not cognitive, constructive and creative. In Russia, as throughout the world, it focuses on Western values: American way of life in its light version, mass culture, and not on values national culture. The aesthetic tastes and preferences of schoolchildren are often quite primitive and are formed mainly by television and music. These tastes and values are supported periodicals, modern mass art, which has a demoralizing and dehumanizing effect.

research work (project)

"Men's youth fashion as a subculture"

Completed: Gaifullin

Vildan Rafisovich

Student 10"A" class

MBOU secondary school No. 58

Sovetsky district Kazan

Supervisor: teacher

technologies:

Martynova E.P.

Kazan, 2016

Content.

1. Introduction

2.Goal and objectives.

3 . History of the term

4. The birth of subcultures.

5 . Basiccharacteristics of youth subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

8. Fashion and youth subcultures in our time.

9 .Conclusion

10.Bibliography.

“It’s scary to say how often the most exciting clothing concepts can be found in the poorest people.”

Designer Christian Lacroix.

Introduction.

When you walk through our wonderful city, you involuntarily pay attention to how my peers are dressed. And it can be very interesting to determine by appearance which social group of people he belongs to. And when he wears an unusual outfit, it’s immediately clear which subculture he prefers. And I wanted to consider the phenomenon of youth fashion as a subculture.

Modern society is not homogeneous. Each person is a special microcosm, with his own interests, problems, concerns. But at the same time, many of us have similar interests and requests. Sometimes, in order to satisfy them, it is necessary to unite with other people, because together it is easier to achieve the goal. This is the social mechanism for the formation of subcultures - associations of people based on interests that do not contradict the values of traditional culture, but complement it. And youth subcultures (which are often based on hobbies for various genres of music, sports, literature, etc.) are no exception.

Teenagers have always constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays a large role in the development of the modern teenager. Sociologists first addressed this issue in the 60s.XXcentury. In Russia, since the late 80s, the attention of researchers to youth subcultures has become more noticeable. In recent years, much more attention has been paid to youth subculture.

Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, be it music, clothing or lifestyle.

No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from the common basic culture, it is very difficult to become completely autonomous.

2.The purpose of my work :

consider the concepts of “fashion” and “subculture”; find out how these concepts are related to each other.

Tasks:

consider the main characteristics and aspects of youth subcultures,

highlight their features, show their interrelation and influence on the formation of fashion, tastes and worldview of the younger generation.

study literature on this topic;

Relevance: This topic is due to the recent emergence of a large number of diverse subcultures and the growing interest of researchers and society in this phenomenon.

Hypothesis: subcultures have a connection with fashion and mutually influence each other.

3. History of the term the concept of “subculture”, “fashion”.

Let's start with the history of the term. In 1950, American sociologist David Reisman, in his research, introduced the concept of a subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values preferred by a minority. subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values. The style of the youth subculture turns out to be not just its external expression; through its rituals and iconic forms, it challenges the existing moral order and dominant ideology. In the USSR, the term “Informal youth associations” was used to designate members of youth subcultures.

The subculture has the following characteristic features: a specific lifestyle and behavior of the participants; peculiar norms, values, worldview characteristic of a given social group; also the presence of a more or less obvious initiative center that generates ideas.

The word “fashion” comes from the Latin “modus” (measure, method, image, rule, norm). The Latin "modus" was used by the philosophy of the 17th-18th centuries. as a transitory property of matter (object). In the Russian language, the word “fashion” appears under Peter I and is recorded in the first Russian dictionaries.

The history of fashion is as old as the history of costume. From the moment when man discovered the significance of clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, it was not long before he began to reflect on its aesthetic and stylizing function. Clothing speaks volumes; it reveals certain thoughts and characteristics of a person. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects, and therefore has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

4. The birth of subcultures.

It is customary to distinguish between the concepts of “subculture” and “youth subculture”. It is believed that a youth subculture is a culture created by young people for themselves; it is a culture “not for everyone,” a cultural subsystem within the official system. It determines the lifestyle, value hierarchy and mentality of its bearers. The youth subculture is a special case, one of the many subcultures in modern society. The epithet “youth” immediately defines a certain cultural niche occupied by people united by the principle of age. Age in this case is a very important demographic characteristic. Taking into account the special psychology of age in culture is undoubtedly important, since it leaves a significant imprint on spirituality and mentality. The youth subculture, according to the German scientist L. Hauser, is “a form of expression of the process of searching for and mastering a worldview.” In other words, a youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects.

For my work, this feature of subcultures is of great interest, since it all has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

From birth, a child tries to repeat the behavior of his parents and other adults around him. For young children, their parents are role models. But the older the child is, the closer his age is to adolescence, the more children separate from their parents, they want to be different from them, and not only from their parents, but also from the society around them. This is the reason for the emergence of youth subcultures. Young people unite in separate movements that differ from the prevailing majority in behavior, clothing and general lifestyle. The main function of the youth subculture is to give young people the opportunity to stand out from others, to realize themselves, and to find friends with the same views.

Each youth subculture has its own attributes,your style of clothing and in music, their websites. There are even gestures characteristic of certain subcultures.

For a 50's teenager rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture arose. And among young people it has become really fashionable.

In the 60s there arosesubculture "Modos" (Fashion). Fashion picks up the dandy way of dressing from the “Teddy Boys” (1950). Their motto is “moderation and accuracy!” The mods wore perfectly fitting suits, a chemical miracle of the early 60s - snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, rapidly developing in this decade, also has its influence on the classic houses of Haute Couture. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “pumps” with low heels, etc. The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the new youth fashionsubcultures - “hippies”. The diffuse hippie style brought into fashion bright ethnic motifs from eastern countries, a deliberate effect of shabbyness and, above all, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against the bourgeois uniform. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes of different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value of old clothes. This is where the worn effect and ripped jeans come from.

Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. For example, let's givesubculture "hipsters". It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. This subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle as a standard. Hipsters stood out with their bright clothes and original manner of speaking (special slang). They had a special interest in Western music and dance. Western fashion still has a huge influence on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to remember at least one subculture that originally arose in Russia. Basically they all came to us from the West.

Another subculture directly related to fashion ishipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from the English word hip, which translates as “to be in the know.” Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.

5. Main characteristics of youth subcultures.

Each informal belongs to one of the types of youth subcultures: (the most common subtypes of subcultures are presented below)

Types of subcultures

general description

Subspecies

Description of subspecies

Musical

Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music

Alternatives

fans of alternative rock, rapcore

Goths

gothic rock fans

Metalheads

fans of heavy metal and its varieties

Punks

punk rock fans

Rockers

rock music fans

Hip-hop (rappers)

fans of rap and hip-hop

Skinheads

ska lovers

Emo

emocore fans

Image

Subcultures distinguished by style of clothing and behavior

supporters of the movement do not have a specific ideology; they prefer electronic club music.

Mods

snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles

The subculture is based on imitation of the “golden youth” by teenagers.

Glamourists

majors. The main component is the desire for a life advertised in glamorous “men’s” and “women’s” magazines (the pursuit of fashion, clothing and cosmetics).

Freaks

Hipsters

A "dead" Soviet movement inspired by the Western way of life.

Military

Paramilitary style of clothing.

Political and ideological

Subcultures distinguished by social beliefs

Antifa

Hippie

Informals

By hobby

Subcultures formed through hobbies

Bikers

Motorcycle lovers

Writers

Graffiti fans

Tracers

Parkour lovers

Hackers

Fans of computer hacking (usually illegally)

For other hobbies

Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.

Otaku

Fans of anime (Japanese animation)

Gamers

Fans of computer games

Football hooligans

6. The relationship between fashion and subculture. Youth men's fashion - for the young and stylish. Fashion and subculture occupy an important place in modern society. Both of these concepts are quite complex and interesting to study, and both of them are components of culture as a whole. Fashion today penetrates into all spheres of life.Some people even choose their behavior or lifestyle under the influence of fashion trends. In this case, we can talk about the existence of fashion for certain subcultures, as well as the mutual influence of these phenomena on each other. Fashion in general always strives for a young and fresh impression: it wants to rejuvenate. At the same time, the essence of fashion – change – is closer to the dynamic pace of life of young people.Fashion acts as a special social sign, a symbol of prestige. Fashion focuses on recognized leaders, unites people in accordance with a certain way of behavior, and stimulates interest in new things. The compensatory function allows you to fill unsatisfied or insufficiently satisfied needs, acting as a regulator of social needs. Fashion is a social phenomenon and therefore should be researched and studied from different angles. A youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. Fashion often gives rise to subcultures. No matter how representatives of one or another subculture try to stand out and deviate from official fashion, the end result is that the more widespread a subculture becomes, the greater the chance that it will be fashionable and vice versa - the more fashionable a subculture is among young people, the more widespread it will be.Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence. The important role of the youth subculture is that it provides the opportunity for self-development and self-realization to its participants. And also the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. It is not limited to household items or clothing. We came to the conclusion that there are practically no boundaries for fashion: it can penetrate science, art, politics, ideology, etc. Sometimes elements of such fashion go beyond the subculture and become quite acceptable to the bulk of the population, moving into the category of “official” fashion. Fashion for a certain style of music, clothing, etc. can become the basis of a subculture, and also determines the development or cessation of its existence.

Image for a representative of a subculture is not only clothing, it is a demonstration by one’s appearance of the beliefs and values that the subculture promotes.As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct of imitation. This is one of the contradictions inherent in youth - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out. This contradiction is resolved thanks to subculture.For example, a Goth among “his own people” will be like everyone else, but in comparison with people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep.” The goal has been achieved, he will be noticed. Fashion is art, fashion is an endless list of victims, fashion is a lifestyle, fashion is a philosophy, fashion is shocking. Modern fashion is becoming more and more democratic; it no longer imposes strict rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so previously popular items often get a second life. And if you reconstruct the history of this or that thing, you can find connections with a wide variety of subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

Refusal of a uniform style.Among the countless sources of inspiration for designers, retrospective ones have recently occupied the most important place. Even the greatest Couturiers usually draw inspiration from well-known human experiences. Genius often manifests itself in re-reading with brilliance well-known chapters of human history.Another source remains street fashion and the fashion of designers working for the “street” and subcultures. Beginning in the '90s, designers began to eclectically mix elements of several different subcultural styles and play freely with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions.

John Galliano admitted that the inspiration for his spring-summer 2005 collection was just one line from a song - it was the phrase “Napoleon in Rags” from the classic Bob Dylan song LikeaRollingStone. The show itself was more like a performance: videos, live music, singers, rock band Uminski, violins and viols and rock stars in the front row. Rock musicians, as is the custom of all rock dinosaurs, broke both guitars and drums towards the end of the performance.

Ripped jeans and rock 'n' roll presentedKarl Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week in his spring-summer 2005 collection for the house of Chanel, the prototypes of which were two great icons of the 20th century - James Dean and Coco Chanel. From the first - an abundance of torn denim jackets and frayed breeches with tweed and rock and roll leather chic, and from the second - glamorous and feminine fluffy dresses with corsets and sexy butterfly swimsuits.

Show of the latest autumn men's collection “swing, dudes and rock and roll” from SirPaul Smith the soundtrack of which was entirely composed of songs of modern young British and American bands playing rock and roll, Britpop, post-post-punk, junk, testified to the designer’s genuine love for non-commercial rock music and referred to the image of a swinging intellectual from Chelsea in the late 60s. Paul Smith invited his aristocratic intellectual to feel free to mix everything in his wardrobe. Large dockers and factory workers' caps with expensive tweed jackets and skinny trousers. And all this - with zebra boots with elongated toes. This is exactly what Smith believes a reincarnated London dandy from the 60s should look like in the winter of 2006.

Street style showed the House of Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week in the fall/winter 2010/2011 collection. Stretched sleeves and a dropped loop effect are “new chic” from John Galliano. He invited the brilliant audience to imagine themselves in a torn knitted dress, in a bias-cut jacket with raw edges, in randomly selected clothes. “Would you be shocked if I wore something more comfortable?” - these words of the heroine Jean Harlow from the Howard Hughes film “Hell's Angels” are taken as the epigraph!

Often, truly great designers find ideas literally in their own backyard. Two years agoGiorgio Armani created a collection inspired by images of workers from Eastern Europe. How can a luxury designer get ideas for luxury clothing from a world of poor immigrants? Armani updated his new collection with berets slanted in the style of the 1960s.

Glam and rock by Jean-Paul Gaultier on Paris Fashion Week. “More glam! David Bowie, thank you! T. Rex, thank you! ”- this is how leading French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier began his seasonal show, loudly calling on the audience gathered in Paris to get up from their seats and move to the beat of the energetic music.

Models began to appear on the catwalk in bright, stretchy leggings that harkened back to the 1980s, sparkling shapeless tops, torn shearling coats with shiny leather prints, sweaters with huge fluffy collars, caped blouses, golden leggings and translucent tops with crosses. This is how Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the coming autumn and winter of 2009/2010.

Today there is an increasing popularity of the hippie style. Neo-hippie and ethnic romanticism captured the podiums. Dresses and skirts embroidered with flowers and beads, oriental motifs, intricate patterns, hand painting, and asymmetry are very popular. Skirts trimmed with braid, T-shirts decorated with rhinestones. Long, floor-length dresses with multi-colored embroidery. Tunics worn over trousers. Accessories: pouches, handbags, cloth bags, belts embroidered with beads.

000 CollectionZegna spring/summer 2015-Z Zegna was born under the sign of the house of Pitti Uomo, so it is quite fair to find designer influences this seasonPaul Surridge and Murray Scallon that they presented their current proposals for the Italian label.

Ermenegildo Zegna presented the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture spring/summer 2015 collection with a fashion show in the form of an original film directed by Johan Söderberg. Unconventional cut, a different look at the latest spring-summer trends in men's fashion - all forecasts from Stefano Pilati. The starting point was architectural restraint and classic elegance in premium men's business clothing. The silhouettes were perfectly adjusted in volume and cut. The main theme of this collection was to be the study of the original male strength and energy, intellectual masculinity.

It should be noted that the designer offered quite a lot of striped items. Where there are black and blue, where there are gray and dark red, black and white or beige with sand stripes - they are found in different widths, vertical and horizontal, even oblique and circular lines, as on shirts and jackets, coats and three-piece suits. The coat and wide trouser legs are cut in the usual loose way, just reaching your ankles. As for the choice of fabric, there is freedom in combining them, the main thing is that the combinations of materials are pleasant to the body, so that the air circulates freely and inspiredly. Youth trends are too diverse and changeable to highlight a specific style, so just focus on your ideas about convenience and your sense of style.

8. Youth subcultures and fashion in our time.

An important place in modern youth fashion is occupied by clothing in the style of various subcultures and simply style trends. Most young people belong to some movement - hip-hop, goths, punks, hippies - and dress in accordance with their hobbies. The main criteria for choosing such clothing are comfort and the ability to emphasize one’s belonging to a specific subculture.Hip-hopera easy to recognize by wide pants and a T-shirt that do not hinder movement while dancing. Hippies prefer loose fit, natural fabrics, and bright colors. Black clothing combined with dark makeup - your business card is ready. Particularly noteworthy are retro distractions and passion for recreating the styles of ancient civilizations; for summer - these are the motifs of Egypt and Ancient Greece; in spring and autumn - this can be the rich East and in winter the expected aspiration to the North.

Universal clothing for the city. However, youth fashion does not only include subcultures; there are also simpler and more universal styles. One of them is casual, comfortable clothes for everyday wear in the city. Casual is characterized by a mixture of styles, a combination of dissimilar elements - for example, shorts and a jacket, a business suit and sneakers, jeans and a formal shirt. The highlight of casual style is the opportunity to create new looks every day, combining and experimenting . The conclusion is simple: clothing style is a business card, which, even before the first words, can tell a lot about its owner. This is why it is important to create an image, taking into account your own preferences, and this is why there are so many trends in fashion: so that everyone can find themselves. Youth men's fashion is a fairly broad concept. Here you can find styles from various subcultures and just comfortable everyday clothes. The fashion portal Manero.ru offers a closer look at what youth men's fashion is.

Men's youth clothing

Men's youth fashion in the coming season is, first of all,denim fashion. Skinny jeans can be complemented with bright printed T-shirts or simple white T-shirts - the hit of the season. In cool weather, the T-shirt can be replaced with a long sweater with a striped pattern. In general, stripes will become the most popular print of the spring-summer 2015 season. It adorns T-shirts, sweaters, and jackets. Classic nautical stripes and multi-colored stripes, both horizontal and vertical, will be in fashion.

This year's sports style is aristocratic and reminiscent of sailing regattas and golf clubs rather than backyard basketball courts.

Every fashionable young man needs a classic knit polo shirt - white, dark cherry or blue. Another must-have element of a fashionable men's wardrobe is loose, soft cotton chinos in light colors, which can be an original alternative to jeans. Interesting models can be found in new collections of such European brands as Gray Connection, John Devin, Mod, Esprit, Tom Tailor and many others.The clash of classics and avant-garde: as always, two opposites met on the catwalks - a strict classic style and the image of a fashionable rebel. Both of these areas of the fashion industry find their buyers. Young people are also happy to choose traditional jackets and blazers, skillfully combining them with jeans and trousers. The coming year was no exception: classic men's fashion is in demand not only by respectable businessmen, but also by their younger brothers.

Some other trends in youth fashion

Today, youth fashion is still not as fierce as before, but it is influenced by youth subcultures. Hip-hop, rock and punk also left their mark on men's youth fashion in 2015.

Hipster- This is another noticeable trend in modern youth fashion. Retro style references, granny sweaters, stylish vests, jackets and tapered trousers are still relevant. Bright colors and the use of stylish accessories are encouraged - sunglasses, scarves, hats and bags. Another trend that has been increasingly capturing youth fashion lately is the so-called J-style. It is characterized by the fact that it has overt references to the fashion of the East, in particular Japan. Original patterns and non-standard styles of J-fashion clothing help create a memorable youth look .

Street fashion for men

This year it is presented quite brightly. Most designers of fashion houses relied on street style and were right. The main principle that is observed when choosing an outdoor wardrobe is comfort and convenience. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, raincoats and coats - all these types of outerwear are great for youth street style.

yukami. The rolled-up jeans are completely splattered with paint, which adds some chaos to the men's outfits and makes the collection much closer to youth. Admiral's coats and naval cloaks with wide shoulders proudly stand out throughout the entire ensemble, some of them even have shoulder straps. The sleeves are decorated with wide blue stripes. In general, Gucci collections always have something of a style military, so there is nothing unexpected about the new clothes. Some shirts are more reminiscent of pajamas: they are just as long and without a collar.

It will be interesting to know that Frida Giannini always prefers two styles: a jet setter in a pantsuit and a rock musician with a rebellious character. So the designer combined these two images into one, calling them “decadent admiral.” You can also see the influence of British subcultures, for example, mods. Does a Gucci pantsuit look too formal? It doesn’t matter, Frida Gianini relaxed her look, just roll up your trousers, put on moccasins and put on a bag over your shoulder, and you will radically change your appearance.

7.Conclusion

The fashion industry today is not a closed monolithic system that sternly dictates to everyone what is in the bull's eye and what is out. On the contrary, she herself, in turn, experiences the enormous influence of the subculture, “street fashion,” which very quickly becomes the main source of imagination for the creators of the fashion world. They take ideas from styles and subcultures, modernize them, and then mass produce them. Subculture research is like a spotlight that shines a spotlight on a cultural space in search of originality and authenticity - with the fashion industry hot on its heels. Thanks to the Internet, digital and mobile communications, the world is becoming faster and reality is becoming virtual. Now the decisive factor is the flow of information - from the catwalk to manufacturers, and from final buyers to fashion creators.As a result, "street style" and designer fashion quickly became closer to each other, and fashion as a whole became more monolithic. In the era of globalization, boundaries are being erased in fashion.

The ability to dress fashionably, in accordance with the ideas inherent in a given age, is perceived as an extremely important feature that allows a teenager to be considered “almost an adult.” Those who are still dressed according to the standards of children's fashion are often called "nerds", "skins", "hi", "touched", or "babies who go shopping hand in hand with mommy." All these unflattering reviews emphasize that "nerds" are perceived as people with great oddities or are completely marginalized in the peer group, and all because they do not do what is considered normal for young people, that is, they do not listen to the opinions of children their own age, they don’t pay attention to what they’re wearing, etc. And it is precisely, most often, such “nerds” who fall under the influence of subcultures, so that in the future they will “stand out from the crowd.”

Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.

So, the topic of subcultures and fashion is one of the most interesting topics. It is vast and multifaceted. It is vital and is observed every day. Subcultures and fashion do not stand still, they develop and change. They are increasingly embracing humanity.

8. Bibliography

S.I. Levikova / “Youth subculture” / textbook / M., / Grand / 2004.

B.D. Parygin / Social psychology: textbook / 2nd edition / M., / 2003.

Fashion theory. No. 10, winter 2008-2009. Dick Hebdige. Chapters from the book “Subculture: the meaning of style”

A. Vasiliev/ “Russian Fashion”/M.,/2004.

www.hazzen.com/publications/articles/istorija_subkultury_hippi_chast_i

www.glamur.3dn.ru/forum/39-250-1

“Bike Freak” magazine issue No. 6, article “Guys in Leather”

Magazine "POP» autumn- winter 2005

There are many subcultures associated with a vehicle such as a motorcycle. Today we are talking about fashion. The mod movement originated in Britain in the 1950s. They used a scooter as a means of transportation. Some people didn't take scooterists seriously, but this stylish subculture was a powerful movement for a long time and competed with such a powerful movement as rockers.

History of "fashion"

The word "mod" originates from the term "modernism". In the 1960s, fashion was at its peak. They differed from rockers not only in their means of transportation. Mods were very careful about their appearance, for which they received the nickname “glamorous scumbags.” Scooter riders gave their clothing preferences to Italian British brands. Due to the rise in production in the post-war period, people began to have extra money. Elegant clothing is something that some segments of the population were previously deprived of. And fashion, one might say, was catching up.

In music, the main trends that fashion was fond of were American soul, beat and R&B.

Unlike the rockers, who were not allowed into public places of recreation due to their behavior, the mods spent their free time in London clubs, where they consumed large quantities of amphetamines.

Getting to know the scooter

The scooter is the meaning of life for mods. The guys came from working-class youth; this was one of the ways they used to escape from the drabness of everyday life. Unlike rockers, who tuned their motorcycles inside and out, mod scooters were subject to only external tuning. Mods painted their scooters in two colors and put chewing gum stickers on them. The owner's name was written on the windshield. A distinctive feature of mod scooters was the huge number of trunks, foglights and arches.

In 1966, the mod movement died down. The hippies appeared. There were a couple more attempts to revive this subculture in the 1980s and 2000s, but it came to nothing. Scooter riders' popularity peaked in the 1960s.

Another thing that made the mods famous was their run-ins with rockers. Newspapers dubbed this event the “War of Rockers and Mods.”

The mods did not have the same cohesion as the rockers and bikers; they did not create clubs where the ideas of brotherhood, freedom and unity were common. Mods were young people who got together and hung out in clubs until the early hours. But, despite all this, they were able to leave their mark on history.

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