How to draw camouflage patterns correctly. Car blog Sparcoman

Painting a car in camouflage is a fairly common occurrence. Car owners who choose this design for their car are guided by various, often contradictory, considerations. For some car enthusiasts, this is a means of camouflaging their car in the wild. This approach is observed among lovers of hunting, fishing, off-road competitions and travelers. These people strive to merge with the surrounding nature, become part of the landscape, and feel harmonious in it.

Another category of drivers, on the contrary, strives to somehow distinguish their car from the crowd. And camouflage, especially designer camouflage, successfully helps with this. This car looks brutal and cool, the militaristic streak in the design looks courageous and attracts the attention of others.

Car tuning - camouflage painting

Today there are many different technologies that can transform your car. To paint it in camouflage colors, you can, of course, contact the service. Our specialists will do their job professionally and save you from hassle and worry. However, you can “dress” your car in camouflage with your own hands. This will not only save money, but will also give you the opportunity to experiment on your own, choosing each color and overall design.

At home, this work can be done in three ways:

draw with paints, forming a picture using tape and newspapers;
paint with paints using vinyl film or thick cardboard;
perform restyling with vinyl film with a ready-made camouflage pattern.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. All of them are quite easy to do at home, and you can do any of them with your own hands. To do this, you do not need special skills - only accuracy, diligence and conscientious observance of all the subtleties of the process.

Camouflage car coloring page

Draw without a stencil

To paint camouflage without a stencil, you will need the following equipment:

a large number of unnecessary newspapers;
masking tape - narrow and wide, five rolls of each;
dry, clean flannel rags;
0.2 liters of gasoline;
half a liter of solvent;
auto varnish with matte or glossy effect;
kilowatt halogen lamp;
construction spatula 70 mm wide;
auto enamel in spray cans - 4 cans for each color of the design.

To begin, we select a drawing. We sift through a mountain of relevant sites on the Internet, leaf through catalogs in stores with military literature, consult with friends, turn our heads 360 degrees on the streets, looking for something suitable on other cars. Having decided on the design, we choose each color for it - you can use any range you want. Or you leave everything as in the found original.

Necessary materials for painting a car

Next, we prepare the room. To work, you will need a well-lit garage with effective ventilation. No dirt or dust is allowed - it will settle on the freshly painted surface, nullifying all your efforts.

Now let's prepare the car. This process consists of the following steps:

Thoroughly wash the car, remove all dust and any types of contaminants.
Drying the car dry.
Removing headlights to protect them from paint splashes. If you don't want to mess with it, you can cover them with newspapers and masking tape. You should also seal the windows and door frames. Be sure to cover all rubber gaskets - paint should not get there.
Degreasing the car body. It is wiped with a lint-free cloth soaked in gasoline. If swelling of the old paint coating occurs, it needs to be heated with a lamp and the unnecessary peeled off with a spatula.

Preparing the car for painting

Now the car is ready for further work - we can start drawing. The step-by-step process is as follows:

Using narrow masking tape, we form spots on the car. We try to make them large, capture several elements of the body, and make sure that the tape lays down without creases. Each crease is a thin colored scratch in the drawing.
We cover all the spots with newspapers, forming smooth lines. We fix them with wide tape.
Using an aerosol can, apply the darkest color.
We wait until the paint dries, after which we apply the second layer.
After the paint has dried, remove the tape and newspapers, and then begin to form spots for the second color. They should overlap the first paint. We also cover the narrow tape with newspapers and secure with wide tape.
Apply the second color, wait for the paint to dry and apply the second layer.
Thus, we apply spots of different colors. The darkest color always comes first. The last one is the lightest. We carefully ensure that each layer is applied only after the previous one has dried.
We remove the newspapers and remove paint particles with a solvent from those places where it got accidentally.
We varnish the body. Mix the autovarnish with the fixative and solvent according to the instructions. We cover the body with it in several layers. Apply each next layer only after the previous one has dried.

DIY car camouflage painting

Drawing with a stencil

You can also draw camouflage on a car using a stencil. We will need all the materials listed in the previous section. But in addition, you need to stock up on special vinyl films or thick cardboard - they will be needed to make a stencil.

Preparing the machine for work and the principle of applying enamel are no different from those described in the previous section. But we do not form the spots with tape and newspapers, but use a stencil. We glue vinyl films or cardboard with the spots cut out onto the body, and then apply paint, color by color.

The disadvantage of this method is that the stains are the same. And in order for the design to look stylish, it is desirable that they be of different shapes and sizes. You can, of course, make many different stencils, but this is quite labor-intensive.

We wrap the car with vinyl film

Modern technologies offer another method - pasting with vinyl film with a camouflage pattern. The advantage of this method is that you can choose any pattern for your car - you will not need to draw it.

Your possibilities are limited only by the range of films, and it can be quite wide.

Vinyl wrapping has the following advantages:

a spectacular pattern on your car;
additional protection against scratches and chips;
neutralization of the negative influence of atmospheric factors;
durability, provided that washing is carried out according to the rules;
the ability to get rid of coverage at any time;
the opportunity to process the car with your own hands.

Before starting work, you need to thoroughly wash the machine and remove all dust and dirt. Afterwards, dry it thoroughly. Then degrease the surface of the body and get to work:

The first step is fitting. Together with the backing, we apply the vinyl to the surface and place marks with construction tape. After all this, we carry out cutting, taking into account that more material will be needed for irregularities and bends.
Place the material on a flat surface and remove the backing. We make sure that no debris or dust gets on the adhesive surface, and also avoid the formation of creases and folds.
Using a spray, spray the adhesive surface with a soap solution and place it on the gluing site. We can move and adjust the position of the film.
Smooth it with pressure using a rubber squeegee, expelling air and water from under the vinyl. At the same time, we heat the film with a hair dryer, making sure that overheating does not occur.
At the bends, heat the film and stretch it. Here the material will have to be stretched more strongly, so we pay special attention to the heating.
Use a felt squeegee to expel the remaining air and warm it up again with a hairdryer. Cut off the remaining vinyl with a knife. We treat the edges and joints with sealant.
Let the car dry for 12 hours. After this, the work is considered completed. Refrain from washing your car for another week. This is necessary for complete shrinkage and fixation of the film.

Pasting film on cars

Conclusion

You can easily “dress” your car in camouflage on your own - there is nothing difficult about it. Please note that more than 50% of the surface of the car must be covered with one color, as required by the rules.

Speaking about camouflage uniforms of the Second World War, of course, we cannot ignore the famous small-spotted SS camouflages. Needless to say, they look impressive and even by today’s standards, sophisticated and modern. At first they all seem more or less the same; upon closer examination, several main types can be identified... but if you plunge into this topic seriously, you are simply amazed at the whole variety of types, which in turn are divided into subtypes, etc. This topic is for a separate serious scientific study. In my hands was the impressive work of uniform historians M.D. Beaver and J.F. Borsarello “Camouflage uniforms of the waffen-SS” (Shiffer military history book, 1995). For my “skater’s” needs, I tried to somehow systematize what I saw and read. In this article, I propose to consider a step-by-step painting of one of the last mass-produced camouflage patterns, which historians call the dot pattern. It is often referred to colloquially as dot or "pea". Of course, it would be logical to start the cycle by looking at the earliest samples, but it was Dot, despite its apparent complexity, that seemed to me the simplest and most understandable in essence. Therefore, it is worth starting with it.

Fabric with this pattern appeared in 1944, it was planned to replace all the many early camouflage samples, which, of course, was not done in practice. The first example of uniforms made from this fabric was the SS uniform in the form of a jacket and trousers mod. 1944. It was also used to make double-sided winter kits, as well as jumpsuits for SS parachute units. The design was applied to the fabric by machine in five colors. There were several subspecies of "peas".

First, you need to acquire high-quality photographs (this rule is true for absolutely all camouflages), preferably color ones. It is unlikely that it will be possible to draw multicolor camouflage well and correctly using black and white ones. ().

Let's start painting by applying a basic background. Many photos show that even in one uniform sample there are some details from different fabric samples. So in photo 1 you can see that the legs of winter trousers are sewn from different subspecies of “peas”. I didn't do that, but decided to make the parka and pants on my figure different (). I recommend preparing a base color with a reserve; it will still be useful to us in subsequent operations.

Now is the time to analyze the drawing. I talked about rhythmic repetitions in previous articles, and in dot camouflage this rhythm is quite clear and readable. The specificity is that the spots and dots seem to overlap each other and it is important to determine the order in which the colors are applied. The lowest of them in my case turned out to be sandy (with a slight hint of pinkish tint).

We will apply the first stains to them, already at this stage setting the rhythm and remembering the seams on the clothes. We “cut off” the stains on the seams, just as it was in reality (). Next we apply large spots of dark color. It looks almost black in the photo, I used a dark olive brown. We try to convey the nature of the spots, the edge line of which looks torn. Let's imitate it ()

We begin to draw dots with the same color. The dots have an irregular oval shape and vary slightly in size. Some points look like two points fused together. Sometimes they recommend drawing dots with a sharpened match, but it seems to me. It's better to do it with a brush. The points are arranged in groups and, due to their ovality, are oriented in a certain direction. This direction must be grasped; it is one of the main factors determining the similarity of the picture ().

Now we take the remaining base color and use it to draw dots on top of the previously applied large sand and dark spots (). Next we draw specks of green color. They were of two shades, but even in good photos of the uniform they are extremely difficult to distinguish. Some have a greener grassy tint, others are closer to khaki (). Green dots are located more concentrated on dark spots, but are also present on the base background. In general, the dots, although grouped by color, still exist separately in some places, which gives the effect of a complex interpenetration of colors. Already at this stage it is clear that the camouflage becomes similar to itself.

The last step here is to apply sand-colored stains. All colors on the parka are applied ()

On the pants I painted a subtype of dot camouflage, the pattern of which does not contain large spots and is formed only by dots. Due to the density and sparseness of the dots, as well as their orientation, it looks quite interesting.

We apply groups of dark dots onto the base background. We remember the rhythmic repetition of the pattern (). Next we draw orange and green dots. They are located similarly - in large groups, but in some places they penetrate into groups of other points. Do not fill the entire background; in some places there are areas unoccupied by dots ().

We will do the same with highlights - very tactfully, making them on the edges of the hems, trouser legs, pockets, hood, etc.

From under the figurine's belt, the braid with which the parka was tied around the waist had come out. Judging by the book, the rule was this: for a summer (with a predominance of green) camouflage pattern, the braid was camouflage on one side and white on the other. For autumn (with a predominance of orange), the braid was gray on one side and white on the other.

In terms of cut, the main difference between the SS parkas and the army ones (with other similarities) were the flaps of the side pockets. The Wehrmacht had them straight, the SS had them V-shaped. Also on the SS samples there were no buttons on the sleeves for attaching quick recognition ribbons.

Types of camouflage for cars and methods of applying it yourself: geometric, digital pattern, forest and hunting camouflage, winter, sand. Stages of work for each method, as well as features of the work.

This article is intended for persons over 18 years of age

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Important!

This type of tuning, such as painting a car in camouflage, is used for a special purpose by military combat vehicles, army units and vehicles used for hunting. A special color of the car is required for camouflage purposes. Naturally, when applying such a color, it is difficult to make the car invisible, but still at least some kind of stealth effect is present. In war or hunting conditions, red, blue or any other bright color is immediately noticeable.

brand-detail-img-title">Painting a car in camouflage

It is also worth noting that in normal times such specific tuning takes place. The fashion for innovation and “show off” has not yet been canceled, and car enthusiasts are trying to distinguish their vehicles from thousands of others.

Types of painting

Before you start tuning your car, you should understand that there are different types of camouflage patterns. Each of them is different from the others.

Geometric camouflage

It is also called chopped. It was invented not for the purpose of camouflage in rough terrain, but for a design effect, to break up the silhouette of the object it is applied to. This effect changes the actual dimensions and does not make it possible to evaluate the true shapes. This technique is often used by the US Navy on fighter aircraft. However, painting a car in such camouflage looks no less harsh and brutal. Especially on sports cars with a low body height.

brand-detail-img-title">Geometric camouflage

The colors used in this type of painting are familiar to the eye:

white;
grey;
black.

But designers working with cars often add rather unusual splashes of pink, purple and blue. Such a non-standard solution often plays into the hands of the owner - it attracts the attention and glances of others. And this is precisely why they go to airbrushes.

Digital drawing

Digital or, as many people call it, pixel camouflage looks like squares - pixels on a computer monitor. It creates the effect of destruction - a blurred silhouette of the vehicle relative to the terrain and conditions in which the car is used. If we are talking only about camouflage, then special instructions are used on the ratio of sizes, colors and the number of stains applied.

Pixel car painting

Each area has its own colors and shades:

for rocky mountains and megalopolises - gray, black, white;
for some forest landscapes - green, brown, black;
for desert latitudes - sandy, yellow, mustard.

Forest or hunting camouflage

A frequently used type of special tuning among hunters and fishermen is forest (hunting) camouflage.

Functional colors:

green and all its shades;
brown and sand;
black.

Painting in forest camouflage should have smooth and soft lines. In this form, a print depicting grass, leaves, bushes or vines is used. In urban environments, this species is rarely used. The color here is more fancy with pink, purple or completely acidic tones. The pattern looks especially good on large SUVs and jeeps. For such machines, patterns have been developed that imitate the types of shrouds, jungles or steppes.

Hunting camouflage for cars

Winter view

For this option, both smooth lines and transitions and “chopped” ones are used. Few people choose this type for urban conditions. Rather, it is held in high esteem by hunters or military personnel who have to work in the winter.

The colors for winter “clothing” of cars are mostly light:

grey;
blue;
white.

The use of black is appropriate if the snow cover is uneven in winter.

Sand camo

Sandy or “desert storm” coloration predominates in latitudes with appropriate terrain and sometimes in field conditions. Widely used by the military and rangers on protected prairies.

Tones similar to the terrain:

pale yellow;
brown and all its shades;
white.

When painting a car in camouflage, the product that is used to cover the pattern after the procedure also plays a big role. For the final coating, two types of varnish are used with opposite effects:

glossy;
matte.

brand-detail-img-title">Sand camouflage for cars

If the car will be used for hunting, fishing trips or for military purposes, then you should choose a matte varnish. The gloss gives shine in the sun, and there will be no talk of any camouflage. If the owner wants a fashionable and designer look for the car, then a glossy finish can be preferred.

Methods of applying camouflage

If the owner nevertheless decides to change the appearance of his pet, then he needs to understand where and how exactly to paint the car in camouflage. The no-hassle option is an auto body shop that specializes in paint and art work. But such a service costs money, and not every car owner can afford it. The only option left is to “beautify” yourself.

There are three main ways in which camouflage is applied:

Without using a stencil.
Drawing using a blank.
Pasting vinyl film.

brand-detail-img-title">Wrapping a car with camouflage film

The first method of applying camouflage with your own hands, without using a stencil, is quite difficult to implement. It will require certain tools and materials. If the owner decides to use this type, then this is not the first time he has worked with car paints, and this is familiar to him.

What you need for work:

a lot of unnecessary paper or sheets of old newspapers;
tape, of different widths, preferably masking tape;
dry (necessarily clean) towels or rags made of flannel material;
petrol;
a little paint thinner;
cans of auto enamel or airbrush with installation;
finishing varnish (can be glossy or matte);

brand-detail-img-title">Spray paint

1 kW halogen lamp;
a narrow trowel used for construction work.

The stencil method of applying camouflage to a car with your own hands is simpler and does not require much time. It is accessible even to beginners who are trying their hand at car painting for the first time. The materials used in this form are not particularly different from the previous method, but there is one point: instead of paper and newspapers, you need to take vinyl rolls of film. Camouflage spots of the required size will be cut out on them. Wrapping a car with vinyl film is the easiest way to decorate a car. The work is made easier by using material with an already applied pattern.

Tools and materials:

vinyl film with the selected pattern and color;
sharp or stationery knife;
vinyl treatment spray;
rubber spatula or squeegee to remove air bubbles;

Squeegee to remove air bubbles

construction hair dryer;
sealant for treating the edges of glued vinyl.

Preparing the car before applying camouflage is the most important stage in the work. The first step is to prepare the room where the painting will take place. You should consider ventilation and thoroughly clean the room. It is best to use a car vacuum cleaner and do a wet cleaning. The ingress of dust and dirt at a critical moment is unacceptable.

Car preparation:

You should wash the car well with water and detergent and then dry it.
Dismantle small parts and elements to avoid paint contamination.
Soak a rag in gasoline and walk over the entire surface, degreasing it (after degreasing, the presence of lint is not allowed).

brand-detail-img-title">You should wash the car well with water and detergent and then dry it

If you find any swelling or damage to the previous paint, you need to remove it with a spatula and sand it. It is recommended to heat it with a hairdryer to remove old paint more accurately.

Stages of work for each method

Painting without stencil

How to paint camouflage on a car without a stencil. will be discussed below. This option will require some time and patience.

The work is carried out in several stages:

Using narrow masking tape, create spots of the selected configuration on the body. If there are going to be a lot of bends and refractions in the design, then it is better to tear off the strips of tape from the main skein. When completely gluing, paint can get into the air gaps formed and ruin the whole look.
After the tape is applied, all edges around the resulting stains must be covered with paper to prevent paint from getting into the wrong places. Wide tape can be used to secure the protective material;
The dark paint is applied first. After covering with the first layer, let it dry and repeat the procedure.
When all the layers of dark color have dried, remove the tape and paper and begin gluing the subsequent camouflage spots;

brand-detail-img-title">Painting a car without a camouflage stencil

When the form and protection are ready, the paint is also applied twice, and each one must be thoroughly dried. The last color to be painted should be the lightest.
After completing the entire process, remove the tape and remaining paper. Inspect the entire work area. If there are blemishes, carefully remove them with a solvent.
The last stage is coating the entire car body with varnish. The finishing material is also applied in several layers.

Stencil method

How to paint a car in camouflage using a ready-made stencil or one made by yourself? The method itself is almost identical in steps to the first, but there are some differences. The fact is that the finished stencil involves applying spots of the same size, and there will be no variety. If you want to change the camouflage configuration, you will have to cut out the required shapes on the film yourself. When a stencil is selected, it is glued to the body. The holes are covered with paint.

Pasting with vinyl film

This method will be the most affordable to implement. In addition to its simplicity, it also provides an additional layer of protection for the car in the form of a thin film.

Stages:

The selected film is applied to the body, clearly measured and cut. However, experienced motorists advise cutting off excess pieces after gluing, because more material will be needed in curved or convex places.
The adhesive side of the vinyl is treated with a special spray and applied to the surface of the car. At this stage, the film can be moved, thus correcting its position.
As the material is gluing, pass along the surface with a rubber spatula or squeegee. This is done so that the film lies flat and no air bubbles form under it. If there are any bubbles or uneven spots left somewhere, you should go over it with a spatula again.
To even out any bends or folds in the vinyl, you need to heat the surface with a hair dryer.
Protruding edges and excess parts should be cut off with a knife and treated with sealant for durability.

brand-detail-img-title">Wrapping with vinyl film camouflage

Important!

When working with film, do not overheat the material with a hairdryer to avoid damaging the integrity of the design.

After finishing the camouflage on a car with your own hands from film, you need to give the material time to gain a foothold. The car is left in a closed garage for the next 12 hours. The first car washing procedure is carried out no earlier than a week after the vinyl sticker is applied.

For stencil and non-stencil design, it is important that the spots of the next color overlap slightly with the previous ones.

1) When should camouflage be applied to a model?

Then. when you are sure of it. What does "confidence" mean? First of all, confidence means that you are able to complete the camouflage pattern. If you are not sure, practice on cats or older models.

2) What type of camouflage should I rip?

The type of camouflage depends on your level of skill. So you shouldn’t start your practice by applying “ambush” camouflage, which is very difficult to execute. Learn as you go, using the method from simple to complex. A well-painted monochromatic model or a model in a simple camouflage pattern looks much better than a model killed by a carelessly applied complex camouflage pattern.

Thinly diluted paints from Tamiya are excellent for applying camouflage, although the problem of color matching remains. The colors of Vallejo paints are more varied and believable, but working with these paints is more difficult than with Tamiya paints.

4) Can you apply camouflage with an airbrush?

Yes, it is possible, although the quality of airbrushed camouflage is directly proportional to the modeler’s work experience. When working with a brush, use highly diluted ones to the consistency of milk. Paints are applied in four to six layers, allowing each previous layer to dry before applying the next one.

5) What are masks?

Masks are used to protect already painted surface areas and to highlight painted areas of surfaces that need to be painted in a different color. It is convenient to use masks made from special modeling tape or liquid masks.

Types of masks in modeling:

6) When are masks used?

Masks are necessary when applying camouflage spots if you do not have the proper knowledge of a brush or airbrush. It is also recommended to use masks when applying camouflage spots with clear boundaries.

7) How to draw camouflage spots freehand?

When working, the airbrush should be held strictly at a right angle to the surface to be painted. It is recommended to hold the airbrush with both hands.

8) When to use an airbrush to apply camouflage, and when to use a brush?

When painting large camouflage spots, it is convenient to combine working with a brush and working with an airbrush. First, camouflage spots are outlined with acrylic paint, the paint is applied, minimally. in three layers. Then the central areas of the camouflage spots are painted with an airbrush.