Open left menu Galapagos Islands. The amazing world of Ecuador - where the Galapagos Islands are located

The Galapagos Islands (Galapagos) are a volcanic archipelago in the Pacific Ocean. The Galapagos consists of 13 large islands, 6 small islands and 107 rocks and alluvial areas. Thanks to volcanic activity, the emergence of new islands and changes in the boundaries of old ones continue to their day. The islands are located directly on the equator at a distance of 900-1000 km from the coast of Ecuador. .

The equator line divides the archipelago into unequal parts: to the north of the equator there are small islands of rock, and in the southern part are all the main large islands of the archipelago. Between these parts there is not only a virtual border, but also a real deep trench under water

The major islands of the Galapagos archipelago are:

1) Isabela is the largest island in the southwestern part of the archipelago

The island is famous for the Wolf Volcano and Urbina Bay - where you can see turtles, penguins and iguanas.

2) San Cristobal is the island on which the capital of the Galapagos Islands is located. The capital is named Puerto Baquerizo Moreno in honor of the President of Ecuador, who ruled in the 60s of the last century. This is a very small city - the population is about 7 thousand.

San Cristobal also has a source of drinking water - a lake in the crater of a volcano; it must be said that all other islands are experiencing a shortage of water

3) Santa Cruz is the center of tourism in the Galapagos; the largest city of the archipelago, Puerto Ayora, and the Darwin research station are located on this island.

Galapagos airports are located on the Baltre Islands and on the capital San Cristobal. The airport on Baltra serves those arriving on the island of Santa Cruz, and from Baltra you need to get to the island by ferry.

Do you need a visa to travel to the Galapagos?

The Galapagos Islands belong to Ecuador. Residents of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan and Ukraine can travel around the Galapagos and the rest of the country without visas for 90 days, the main thing is to have a foreign passport valid for at least six months from the date of entry. However, at the archipelago airport you will need to pay a special tourist tax of 100 US dollars (this is the national currency in Ecuador).

How to get to Galapagos

Getting to the Galapagos Islands from Russia will require at least two (usually three) transfers. You can only fly to the archipelago, and from one single city - Guayaquil, and the plane to this city, in turn, flies from the capital of Ecuador - Quito, Miami and Bogota. To transfer to Miami you need an American visa.

You can also get there by yacht or cruise ships, but not many tourists can afford this method.

The flight from Quito with a stopover in Guayaquil lasts at least 3.5 hours. Airline website

Climate

The Galapagos Islands have a two-season climate: the dry and cool season lasts from June to November. During these months, the temperature at night is +19-20, and during the day 24-26 degrees and the warm rainy season - from December to May the temperature at night is +25 during the day - 30-32. Despite the high probability of tropical rainfall, the Galapagos is usually visited from December to May.

The rainiest months are February, March, April.

The rather cool weather in the Galapagos is due to a cold current called the Peruvian. Because of this, the water temperature is somewhat lower than what would be expected in equatorial waters. From July to December 22-23 degrees, from January to June from 24 to 28 degrees.

Why go to the Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands are a nature reserve. Therefore, they are not suitable for a beach holiday: there are no expensive hotels, embankments and resort entertainment. People come here to explore the amazing local nature, as well as to scuba dive/snorkel or go surfing.
The untouched nature of the Galapagos is strictly protected. Animals, birds, insects, plants, seeds and even food (fruits, vegetables) cannot be brought into the islands. You cannot export the same things from there, including shells found on the shore - this is a criminal offense. On some islands you can only travel with guides; on most islands you will only have to walk along hiking trails. Naturally, local animals cannot be fed, stroked or frightened, or in general approached closer than 2 m.
There are public boats going from island to island, all of them based on Santa Cruz, so even if you don't want to stop on this island, you won't be able to get around it. The schedule of public boats is not very convenient and you will not be able to get to some protected areas with their help. You can, of course, buy one-day excursion tours, but they are not cheap at all, so the best option for traveling around the Galapagos is cruises. True, as a cruise participant, you will be tied to a group and a strict program common to everyone, so you will not be able to unite with nature.

Animals of the Galapagos Islands

The main attractions of the Galapagos Islands are the animals and birds that live on them. We should not forget that it is to the fauna of the archipelago that we owe the emergence of the theory of evolution.
The most famous resident of the Galapagos is the elephant tortoise, the largest land tortoise in the world (weighing up to 400 kg and up to 1.8 m long). It was she who gave the name to the islands, since “galapago” in Spanish means turtle. The species is endangered: out of 15 subspecies, 10 remain today, the last representative of the 11th, the famous Lonesome George, died in 2012 at the Darwin Research Station on St. Croix.

Also endemic to the Galapagos are the marine iguana, the common conolophus (another iguana) and the Galapagos sea lion.

Of particular interest (mainly scientific) are the 13 species of Galapagos finches - a visual aid to Darwin's theory. All of these species originated from a single continental ancestor, but differentiated over time to occupy different niches in food chains.
In the Galapagos you can also meet the charming blue-footed booby; its bright azure paws will not leave anyone indifferent. The Galapagos penguin, buzzard and cormorant also live here.

Diving in the Galapagos

All the islands of the Galapagos are loved by divers.

The best dives are considered to be the small northern islands of Wolf and Darwin.

Video diving off Darwin Island

Coins

Galapagos coins with animal images are a wonderful souvenir

The Galapagos Islands on the world map resemble a scattering of pearls lost in the Pacific Ocean. This tropical paradise belongs to the Republic. The archipelago consists of 13 main islands of volcanic origin, 6 small islets, 107 rocks, and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. About 90% of the territory is a natural national park.

The Galapagos Islands became famous

1. Giant elephant turtles, which give the archipelago its name. The weight of the shell of these amazing animals, reminiscent of prehistoric creatures, reaches 200 kg, length - 1.5 m.
2. Charles Darwin visited the islands in 1835, after which, during his research, he put forward a “theory of the origin of species.” The scientist drew attention to various types of unremarkable ground finches.
3. Penguins listed in the Red Book. The habitat of these Arctic flightless birds at the equator is an amazing fact. Penguins have chosen a place in the tropics and fit perfectly into the local fauna due to the cold currents in the ocean, where they feel excellent.
4. Marine iguanas. The Galapagos is home to up to 300,000 of these lizards, found at almost every turn. Oddly enough, they spend most of their time in salt water, diving and getting their food.
5. An unimaginable diversity of flora and fauna in general. Here you can really see with your own eyes unusual and rare species, many of which are not found anywhere else on the planet.

The island is the largest, covers an area of ​​4640 sq. km and is shaped like a seahorse. Why does it attract tourists?

1. Here are the best picturesque blue lagoons of the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador.
2. There are 6 largest volcanoes on the island, 5 of which are still active.
3. Only on the island of Isabela (and Fernandina) do local penguins lay eggs and hatch their offspring.
4. Of extraordinary beauty, it is famous as the habitat of iguanas; they are found here at every step.
5. Tagus Bay. While on holiday in the Galapagos Islands, you should definitely visit here and go up to Lake Darwin.
6. On Isabela Island, it is worth seeing the Western Wall with a sad story about the inhumane treatment of prisoners

The island is the second largest and most densely populated. Tourist excursions and cruises to the Galapagos Islands most often originate from here, because the airport is nearby. What is remarkable about this place?

1. The Darwin Research Station is located on the island.
2. At one of the highest points are located, formed as a result of volcanic eruptions.
3. Here, in the thickets of mangrove trees, there is the Black Turtle Bay, where these ancient giants mate.

The island is considered the youngest and ranks third in size. What is interesting about this western sector of the Galapagos Islands?

1. Here is the active La Combre volcano, which wakes up every few years.
2. The town of Punto Espinoza is considered to be home to the world's largest colony of marine iguanas. Here they are found in hundreds.

Island San Cristobal famous for the versatility of its local flora and fauna, it is home to almost all species of animals and plants represented in the Galapagos Islands. What is interesting about this corner of the archipelago?

1. The capital of the Galapagos, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is located here.
2. Fregatebear Hill is known as Frigate Hill, where you can watch these large birds.
3. Lake El Junco is the only freshwater source that never runs dry. Here you can watch wading birds and other representatives of birds.
4. Cape Pitta is famous for the fact that birds of extraordinary beauty nest here - blue-footed and red-footed boobies.

The island covers an area of ​​about 60 sq. km. This is the oldest island of the Galapagos, which is 3.5 million years old. Why is this area interesting for tourists?

1. Here you can watch the wavy albatrosses. It is on the cliffs of Hispaniola, and nowhere else in the world, that these amazing rare birds nest.
2. The beach at Gardner Bay is very popular. The snow-white fine sand here resembles scattered flour.

Island Santa Maria was one of the first to be settled. There are two main attractions here:

1. , which attracts thousands of curious tourists. It was formed by the crater of an extinct volcano and is interesting because teeth stick out from the water, resembling the shape of a crown.
2. In the Bay of Sharks in the town of Punto Cormoran, you can thrill yourself by swimming with reef sharks.
3. Post Office Bay is famous for the oak barrels found here, which in ancient times served as mailboxes.

The island is famous for its unusual forest of pear cacti, which grow up to 10 meters high and resemble powerful trees. Gulls, chaises, and petrels nest on rocks that have weathered over time.

Island Santiago (San Salvador) recognized as the best place to observe fur seals, which are found in only three places in the Galapagos. James Bay is the place where you are most likely to see these endemic animals. In addition, rock crabs, hermit crabs, four-eyed blennies, and sea sponges live here.

The island is considered a geological center and is famous for its dark red sand beaches, which are loved by tourists. This unusual shade is due to the volcanic origin of the soil and its high content of iron oxide.

1. You need to keep in mind that it is under the protection and protection of the government, so entrance to the territory is paid and amounts to 100 US dollars per person.
2. There are rules of behavior and sightseeing here. A total of about 64 trails and sites have been allocated for tourists, from which it is prohibited to deviate.
3. The following types of entertainment are offered on the islands: turtle riding, swimming with sea lions, penguins, seals, snorkeling, diving, surfing, kayaking, hiking, cycling, horse riding.
4. During excursions, observation and communication with local fauna, you must not light fires, litter, make loud noises or sudden movements that could harm them.
5. , of course, there are, and they offer a wide variety of prices and services, from economy to luxury, but chic restaurants and social entertainment hardly have any special meaning here. Therefore, instead of cocktail dresses and shoes, it is recommended to take comfortable cotton clothes and good photographic equipment to capture the Galapagos Islands in all their amazing beauty.

How to get to the Galapagos Islands from Moscow?

For those who do not know where the Galapagos Islands are on the world map, let us remind you that they are located west of the continent of South America, 1000 km from Ecuador.

In the Galapagos Islands, there are airports in two places - on the islands of Baltra and San Cristobal, so you can only get here from mainland Ecuador by plane. The cost of a round trip flight is on average about $350 - $400.

The Galapagos Islands are part of Ecuador. I didn’t know about this when I was going to South America for the first time. Jungles - yes, volcanoes - yes, but I could not imagine that those same Darwinian Galapagos, where hundred-year-old tortoises live, would be so close to the capital of Ecuador and even closer to the second most populous city of Guayaquil.

How to get from the airport to populated areas

The airport is located on the uninhabited island of Baltra. From there, a free bus takes tourists to the ferry, which takes them to Santa Cruz, where there is a taxi to Puerto Ayora.

It’s also convenient to buy a tour on the mainland, then they will meet you and take you to the hotel and attractions. For the first time in my life I was greeted with a sign “Daria Ofitserova”. A taciturn, tanned man led us to the bus, where all the passengers on the plane were packed, including an American couple with a child and four suitcases, tourists in Ecuadorian hats, a group of schoolchildren, Indians and me - a lady in a pink resort jumpsuit.

From plane to bus, from bus to ferry. Swim for a minute, everyone put on vests, paid a dollar, took off their vests, and went out to Santa Cruz.
Without waiting for personal transport, I walked to the buses, ready to get on any one the conductor showed me. But no: he got behind the wheel of a pickup truck - this is the most popular form of transport here: even policemen drive pickup trucks - and off we went.

By train

No way by train.

By bus

You can't get there by bus either.

By car

By car only if flying.

By ferry

You can only get to the Galapagos Islands by plane; you can move from island to island by ship.

There are tours with a program for several days: you fly to the Galapagos and sail on a small yacht or large liner from attraction to attraction. The price of tours starts from 300 USD per day, depending on the comfort class (economy, tourist, first or luxury) and the duration of the trip (usually from 3 to 12 days). Prices for en tours can be compared by.
You can plan the program yourself. Then, upon arrival, you check into a hotel and choose tours from agencies on the islands every day. Day trips cost from 50 to 200 USD (the cheapest are by car around the island, the most expensive are boat rental and diving). You won’t be able to see remote islands where there is no point in going in one day, but you will save money.

Clue:

Galapagos Islands - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow 9

Kazan 9

Samara 10

Ekaterinburg 11

Novosibirsk 13

Vladivostok 16

When is the season? When is the best time to go

It is always warm here, but there are two seasons depending on ocean currents:

• June to November - dry and cool,
• from December to May - warm and humid.

In summer and autumn, the air and water have an average temperature of +20 °C, the wind blows, but it seems that the indigenous islanders have little idea that in Russia -20 °C can be called cool. So I boldly declare: you can go during the Galapagos “cool” season, unless you are tormented by thoughts of +30 °C in July in central Russia.

Winter and spring are warm and rainy seasons. Air and water temperature +25 °C. Despite the rains, winter is the most tourist time. Warm showers are not so bad, and if you're lucky, there won't be any at all.

Let me summarize: you can go to the Galapagos anytime - the equator, it’s always warm, prices depend little on the season.

Galapagos Islands in summer

Summer in the Galapagos is cooler, in my opinion, than winter. The Humboldt Current brings cold water to the shores, and this reduces the temperature on land. But the water is saturated with microorganisms, which attracts fish and seabirds, there are more penguins, and albatrosses fly to the island of Hispaniola.

Galapagos Islands in autumn

In autumn, like in summer, it is drier and cooler. Sometimes there is a light rain called Garua, but the marine life is more diverse, so autumn is worth visiting for divers.

The mating season of blue-footed boobies is coming - this is information for amateur ornithologists. For everyone else, blue-footed boobies are simply beautiful, rare birds with blue feet and are a sight to behold in the Galapagos autumn.

Galapagos Islands in spring

As I already said, from December to May it is warmer than from June to November. More sun - it's worth taking care of sunscreen SPF 30+. A bonus of spring in the Galapagos is the blooming and colorful flora, as well as the opportunity to watch turtles lay eggs on the beach.

Galapagos Islands in winter

Going to the Galapagos in winter is ideal. I was there in February and during the promised wet season I never saw rain. I swam in the ocean, as warm as cappuccino foam, and walked around the city in a T-shirt and shorts, forgetting about the Moscow “get some ink and cry.”

Clue:

Galapagos Islands - weather by month

Conditional areas. Descriptions and features

There are four inhabited islands:

• Isabela,
• Santa Cruz,
• San Cristobal,
• Floriana.

I would suggest settling in each of them. If you book a sea tour, you won’t have to worry about accommodation; you’ll sleep in a cabin. But traveling by ship is more expensive, so I decided to live on one island and make day trips to others. All that remains is to choose where to settle.

Santa Cruz

The easiest way to settle in the Galapagos is to fly to Baltra, from there take a ferry to Santa Cruz and by car to the largest city in the Galapagos (for a second, 11 thousand inhabitants) - Puerto Ayora. There are many accommodation options: from hostels to luxury hotels. Prices start from 30 USD per night.

As elsewhere in Latin America, not all hotels have a website, so if you have not booked a hotel in advance, you will be able to find somewhere to stay in Puerto Ayora.

In addition to traditional hotels, I would note a specific Latin American lodge - bungalows remote from the city. Boutique hotels in Galapagos are priced comparable to hotels in the city, but it will be difficult to get to the beaches and attractions. But nature!

Isabela

Isabela is the largest island, but you can only get there by sea, first flying to Baltra or San Cristobal. The largest (and only) city is Puerto Villamil.

Accommodation price from 40 USD: hostels, guesthouses, hotels and villas. The cost of housing depends on the number of people in the room, conditions and proximity to the beach - people come to Isabela for the silky sand and bounty views.

San Cristobal

This small island is home to the second airport in the Galapagos. The center of civilization is the city of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.

Prices for hotels and hostels start from 40 USD, but there are not many accommodation options, so if you want to stay here, you should book in advance.

Floriana

A very small, but still inhabited island. The settlement is a village of 100 inhabitants of Puerto Velasco Ibarra, and there are practically no hotels here.

You can go to the island in one day, but if you want to stay overnight, book your accommodation very, very well in advance.

Personal experience

I ended up living on Santa Cruz in Puerto Ayora. It is similar to any settlement on the seashore: small, with souvenir tents - some or , except that pelicans crash their noses into the water at full speed, and fur seals bask on the piers.

In addition to the central street, there are areas for locals. It’s safe there, I walked alone, looked at schools and the university (how can you study when you have an ocean here?), a church with a turtle and a pelican painted on it - this can only be seen here.

What are the prices for holidays?

In the Galapagos, as I noticed, it is more expensive than in mainland Ecuador. There are many American tourists here, travelers from all over the world, and the locals are not shy about raising prices, citing the uniqueness of the place. On the islands, as throughout Ecuador, the American dollar is in use, but if you can go to the mainland with barely enough money for a ticket, then when going to the islands, stock up on finances. There is a different world here: not just, but a natural attraction that people come to see from everywhere and spare no money for their dream.

How to save money?

Again, plan ahead! A plane ticket from Quito to Galapagos will cost from 150 USD one way (and a foreigner cannot buy a one-way ticket, so it costs 300 USD at once). Guayaquil-Galapagos is cheaper (from 50 USD), but if you buy in advance, there is a chance to find a ticket for only 14 USD. It is better to fly to the airport on Baltra Island. The second airport of the Galapagos - on San Cristobal - is smaller and further away, which means there are few flights there and tickets are more expensive. And one more thing: upon arrival, all non-citizens of Ecuador must pay 100 USD to visit the islands as a world-famous nature reserve.

In my experience, it is cheaper to stay in a hotel on one island and travel to others on one-day tours than to buy a place in a ship’s cabin: the price of a sea tour starts from 300 USD per day, and when living in a hotel, you can pay from 30 USD per night, buy excursions for 50–200 USD and dine for less than 2 USD.

It’s cheaper to go with a group, then you can rent a yacht (1000 USD for a boat for 10 passengers for 4 days!) and book inexpensive hotel rooms for three or four (for comparison, a triple room - from 45 USD, a single room - from 30 USD).

The most expensive things about a trip are plane tickets and excursions. Food is very cheap - lunch in a nice restaurant can cost 2 USD, a taxi around the city can cost 1 USD.

A super-budget option is to go to the islands as a volunteer. I met such people in the Galapagos, but you will have to take care of the volunteer trip very much in advance and set aside at least a month for it. The programs do not pay for travel, so in any case you will have to buy the plane ticket yourself.

Main attractions. What to see

Nature is the main attraction of the islands. Unfrightened animals that walk along the beach and the city, hundred-year-old turtles and strange plants - everything seems to be similar to what you have already seen, but together it drives you crazy.

I went to see nature, but I didn’t expect how it would amaze me so much. It seems to be a country landscape: a green lawn, trees at a distance, but suddenly the pastoral picture turns into a surreal one - a huge turtle crawls out from behind a bush, slowly chewing the grass.

If you consider that the largest city in the Galapagos is inhabited by 11 thousand people, you can imagine what the tourist streets look like. But the uniqueness of the islands is in everything, and even in small settlements there is something to see.

Puerto Ayora seafront

The street that runs along the ocean in the capital of the Galapagos is called Charles Darwin Avenue. There is the center of civilization, cafes and restaurants, tourist offices.

At the beginning of the street, a fish market opens in the morning - locals sell seafood, and pelicans try to steal fish from the shelves. At the end of the street there is a port from where yachts and ships depart to other islands.

Puerto Villamil seafront

The embankment of Isabela Island differs in atmosphere from the capital - there is also a port, there are animals and birds, but life flows differently - relaxed, unhurried, island-style.

The embankment is called Melecon, where I saw bars with hammocks under coconut trees, fur seals and iguanas.

I categorically do not recommend going to the Galapagos for one day: just getting there from Russia takes a day. The ideal duration of the trip is a week, the minimum is three days. But seeing one island in a day is possible. For example, I would recommend this option:

1. Arrive at Baltra Island - the earliest flight arrives at 9.
2. Hire a car and drive to Puerto Ayora. It takes about an hour to get there, but along the way you stop at a turtle farm, see the twin craters and lava tunnels.
3. Arrive in Puerto Ayora. After lunch, take a taxi to Darwin Station, go on a tour, and then go to the beach and stay there until sunset.
4. It always gets dark at the equator at 6, so you return to the city and go to a restaurant in the center to celebrate your first day in the Galapagos.

Top 5

Galapagos - surrealism. You walk along the coastal shopping street in the morning: souvenir stalls on the right, the sea on the left, and then, out of nowhere, a huge winged something flies out and at full speed fits its nose into the water - a pelican. Okay, so be it. I meet with a tourist group, wait for the boat - a regular tour. If it weren’t for the fur seal, who lay down on one of the piers and basked in the sun.

Beaches. Which ones are better

Like everything in the Galapagos, the beaches here are unusual: on the shore there is not only sand, but also black stones of frozen magma. Popular ones are Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz and Puerto Villamil on Isabela.

Tortuga Bay

The largest and most famous beach on Santa Cruz Island and all of the Galapagos. It's a short drive - about 2.5 kilometers from Puerto Ayora.

Here you can see fur seals, turtles and sharks (and swim with them). Among the birds I saw pelicans and flamingos.

Puerto Villamil

The main city on Isabela is Puerto Villamil. The beach is also called. The atmosphere here is heavenly - coconut palms, iguanas running on the white sand, fur seals lying in the shade.

Just like on Tortuga Bay - shores made of frozen magma, you can snorkel.

Other famous beaches

I would highlight the following:

• Gardner on the island of Hispaniola.
• Garrapatero on Santa Cruz,
• Puerto Egas in Santiago,
• Bartolome Island beach,
• Postal beach on the island of Florentina.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

The Galapagos is one big natural museum (it’s not for nothing that every foreigner pays 100 USD upon entry), and it has its own rules: animals are exhibits, they cannot be touched, foreign flora and fauna must not be imported, it will destroy the ecosystem.

Among the places that were most like a museum, I liked the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz and the turtle breeding center on Isabela Island.

Darwin station

Located on Santa Cruz near Puerto Ayora. This is a science center, but they conduct excursions for tourists, tell about the famous Lonesome George turtle and show yellow iguanas, turtles and birds.

I saw a seal playing with a swimming iguana and it was like something out of a National Geographic movie.

Giant Tortoise Breeding Center

On Isabela Island near Puerto Villamil there is a place where turtles are bred.

There you can see turtle eggs, newly hatched babies and giant adults.

Parks

The entire Galapagos Islands is a large park, but there are natural attractions that are definitely worth seeing. Among them are twin craters and lava caves.

Twin Craters

Los Gimelos (from Spanish - twins) are two craters on the way from the airport of Baltra Island to Puerto Ayora. They look like giant potholes on both sides of the main road on St. Croix. Once there was gas in the craters, but it escaped, collapsing the surface of the earth.

Now there is a beautiful forest around with fern trees, which, I heard, grow only in the Galapagos.

Lava caves

The Galapagos are volcanic islands, which means lava once flowed through them.

It formed underground passages, and the strangest thing about these caves is that you can walk through them, like through an underground passage.

Neighboring regions

Neighborhoods of the capital Puerto Ayora:

• Darwin station (10 minutes drive from the center),
• Tortuga Bay beach (2.5 kilometers from the city),
• twin craters, turtle farm and lava caves (located next to each other, half an hour's drive from the coast into the mountainous part of the island).

I wrote about these attractions above.

The surrounding area of ​​Santa Cruz is the islands of Isabela, Floriana and other smaller islands. I will talk about uninhabited islands further.

Nearby Islands

The Galapagos is an archipelago, which means it has many islands. Four inhabited: Santa Cruz, Isabela, Floriana. And more than a hundred uninhabited. Almost everyone has an animal, fish or bird that is not found anywhere else in the world. This is why the islands are worth visiting. Now I will tell you about the most famous ones.

Espanola

Blue-footed boobies are seen in the town of Suarez Point, and albatrosses are seen in Gardner Bay.

Santiago (San Salvador)

Sea lions, turtles, flamingos, dolphins and seals live here. People come here to look at Darwin's finches, which gave the scientist the idea of ​​biological evolution.

To the port of Egas - snorkeling, to Espumia beach - to see crabs and iguanas.

Rabida

Martian landscapes with orange-red sand and brown pelican nests.

Genovesa

People come here to see the Galapagos birds.

The island has two attractions: the Prince Philip Trail with bird's nests on the rocks and Darwin Beach, ideal for diving.

Marchena

There is an active volcano on the island; tourists rarely come here.

People come here to dive.

Fernandina

Third in area, but uninhabited due to volcanic activity, which still exists.

Here you can see Galapagos hawks.

Bartolome

An extinct volcano, one of the most visited uninhabited islands.

It is famous for its landscapes, which were even featured in the film “Master of the Seas” with Russell Crowe.

Food. What to try

The main food in the Galapagos is seafood. They are fresh here - only from the ocean - and are inexpensive. If you can make it yourself, I recommend buying them in the morning at the Puerto Ayora market and experimenting with island cuisine. If you don't dare, go to a restaurant. Food prices here are low. You can have lunch for 2 USD, and a full dinner in a good restaurant on the embankment will cost 15–25 USD.

Local dishes worth trying:

• ceviche - a fish soup also popular on the coast of Ecuador;
• enseboyado - fish soup, but with the addition of onions;
• empanadas - pies with fillings: cheese, potatoes, fish, etc.

In restaurants and cafes, try fish and seafood - fried or baked, served with potatoes, rice or yucca.

It is especially worth mentioning about fruits. They are not local, they are imported from Ecuador, but they are ideal in the heat. You can buy the usual bananas and papaya, exotic guanabana, woody tomato and naranjiya. All fruits are made into fresh juices, and coconuts are sold with straws for drinking coconut milk.

Fruits are sold on the embankments in small tents, and in Puerto Ayora there is a market (from the embankment, turn onto Baltra Avenue and walk straight for ten minutes).

All Galapagos restaurants are located in cities and towns of the inhabited islands: Puerto Ayora, Puerto Villamil, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Puerto Velasco Ibarra.

In Puerto Ayora, tourist restaurants are located on the waterfront. The further you are from it, the cheaper it is, but the less likely it is that they will bring you a menu in English, and the waiters will speak any language other than Spanish.

On the outskirts of Puerto Ayora, which is a 15-20 minute walk from the embankment, which is the center of the city and civilization here, there are many nameless cafes with plastic chairs, where a snack costs 2-4 USD. On Isabela Island, food is a little more expensive.

Lunch on the Puerto Ayora waterfront will cost 10–15 USD, dinner - 15–25 USD. I recommend El Chocolate, Isla Grill and Il Giardinos. On Isabela it is worth lying in a hammock next to the Iguana Point bar. Here you can order beer or fresh juice and relax to the beach-island music.

Restaurants with white tablecloths in expensive hotels. Here you can order good wine and try local dishes beautifully served. But the flavor of the islands, in my opinion, is still in the eateries and street cafes.

Safety. What to watch out for

The islands are safe. There is no need to be afraid of hooligans or scammers here. You can walk in the morning, afternoon, evening and night, alone, alone or in company. Local residents are positive, tourists are their main source of income and they do not want to lose it.

The Galapagos give the impression of absolute security. Neither local residents nor local fauna pose a threat. Animals cannot be touched, so they are proud and self-sufficient and do not intend to attack. Even the sharks here are kind - travel agencies offer the service of swimming with Galapagos sharks.

I was traveling alone. I walked around Puerto Ayora in the evening and at night, the locals not only did not think of making an attempt, but got to know each other and talked. When they found out that I was from Russia - Russian tourists don’t come here often - they asked how long it took me to get there and whether it was cold in Russia.

Things to do

There will definitely be something to do in the Galapagos. In addition to trips to the islands and visiting attractions, you can go snorkeling - they are sold and rented in shops along the coast. You can go diving - on your own or with an instructor, you can swim with sharks, go to the beach to watch the sunrise, or go look at plants, birds and animals in the surrounding area. There are many tourist offices in the port or on the waterfront that organize day excursions, provide a car and a guide.

Extreme Sports

The Galapagos Islands are a legendary destination for divers. Here are a few islands worth scuba diving.

Gordon Rocks

A place where you can swim with hammerhead sharks. For advanced divers, but worth learning to dive with sharks.

North Seymour

There are white and black reef sharks and green sea turtles. The location is convenient - the island is located between two large inhabited islands of Santa Cruz and Isabela.

Bartolomeo

Here you can find not only fish and sea turtles, but also penguins - they swim in search of food.

Almost the entire coast is a diving area. There are a lot of diving centers near the port of Puerto Ayora where you can rent equipment, arrange transfers and lessons. For example, Academy Bay Diving, Scuba Iguana, Sharkfriends.

A one-day tour to a neighboring island with transport and equipment rental will cost from 140 USD.

If you are afraid to scuba dive, go snorkeling. They can be bought or rented from shops along the coast. Ideal for snorkeling is the bay near Puerto Villamil on Isabela Island. It is called the Pearl Shell - “Concha de Perla”. Here, a hundred meters from the village, you can see fish, crabs and marine iguanas.

I also recommend Punta Espinosa on Ferdinand Island. There you can see not only fish, but also dolphins, and sometimes whales swimming in the distance.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

In the tents on the coast there are a lot of souvenirs with the symbols of the Galapagos, mainly with iguanas and turtles, but they were made either in Ecuador or in China.

A more authentic purchase would be coffee - it grows here on the islands, and locals say its taste is like nothing else. In my opinion this is just good coffee.

The local company also produces jewelry. If you like their design, buy it - it will be a good souvenir.

How to get around the islands

Everyone moves around the islands on foot - the distances are short, or in pickup trucks - for unknown reasons, this type of car is popular here.

A taxi around the city costs 1 USD, around the island - as agreed with the taxi driver. There are no car calling services or a specific place where you can find them. But you can easily catch a taxi on the street.

There is also a rental of bicycles or scooters - about 15 USD per day.

Transport rental

There are no car rental services in the Galapagos. There is simply nowhere to go by car - the number of places that can be reached by land is incomparable to the number of attractions accessible by yacht or ship.

If you want to go from Puerto Ayora to a remote beach or another part of the island, negotiate with a taxi driver: for 10–15 USD he will take you where you need to go and wait a day or half a day.

Galapagos Islands - holidays with children

If you want your children to see iguanas and turtles in the wild rather than on TV, the Galapagos is the perfect place for this. There are picturesque beaches with silky sand and a calm, warm ocean. The kids will definitely love it there.

The disadvantages are the long flight and the need to move between islands by ship; this is not suitable for small children.

This is a continuation of the story about the trip to Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, from which I returned in April.

Also please watch the story "How I Survived the Death Road in Bolivia"

The entire route (without details). Period 52 days. The Galapagos Islands on the map are on the left.

Typically, most tourists visit these three countries (Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia) in two visits.

You need at least 15 days to visit Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands. (These islands are Ecuadorian territory).

And you also need at least 30 days to travel around Peru and Bolivia.

My travel companion and I combined these two trips into one, so as not to fly across the Atlantic Ocean twice.

I ended the first story with the fact that we are flying from the capital of Ecuador - the city of Quito to the Galapagos Islands. (At the same time, we are caught trying to smuggle prohibited products to the islands, they draw up a report and miraculously are not shot:)

So - Galapagos Islands:

Since childhood, I have been attracted by places with beautiful and mysterious names: Paramaribo, Montevideo, Recife, Ivory Coast, Zanzibar, Queen Maud Land and many others.

Places you want to visit even just because of their names. Well, I can’t believe that a place called “Ivory Coast” or Zanzibar could be uninteresting!

One of these places with an interesting name for me was the Galapagos Islands.

The islands got their name from the giant turtles that lived on them, in Spanish “galapagos” - “water turtles”.

The story with turtles is sad - ships came for them, collected them, and stored them in their holds. For what? They were used on long-distance flights as “live canned food.” Without water or food, turtles remained half-dead and were edible for a year!

The archipelago was known by another name, the Enchanted Islands, due to the fast ocean currents that made navigation difficult.

I also knew about the islands that there on the equator (!) live penguins (how can they not be hot!), fur seals and many unique species of birds and animals that are found only on these islands.

And that it was the diversity of species that Charles Darwin observed there that allowed him to come up with his theory of evolution.

The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago in the Pacific Ocean, 972 km west of Ecuador, consisting of 13 main volcanic islands. There is a red flag on the map.

The youngest islands - Isabela and Fernandina - are still at the stage of formation; the last volcanic eruption was observed in 2005.

The islands are best known for the large number of native species of flora and fauna.

In 1832, Ecuador annexed the Galapagos Islands. The government then turned to all countries - like, is it okay if we take it for ourselves? No one lives there. Well, except that the pirates sometimes stopped. Nobody objected then.

Until the 60s of the last century, no one lived there permanently (only pirates a long time ago). In the 60s, one and a half thousand people settled. And today there are already about 25,000 of them.

The main threat to the unique species of flora and fauna of the archipelago are various species of plants and animals introduced accidentally or on purpose, such as goats, cats or cattle. By rapidly multiplying, these species devastate the habitat of the indigenous inhabitants.

Due to the low number of natural predators on the islands, native species are defenseless against introduced species and often become their victims.

Many species were brought to the island by pirates. The famous traveler Thor Heyerdahl pointed to documents that indicate that the Viceroy of Peru, knowing that pirates fed on wild goats on the islands (which were brought and released by them), ordered the release of dogs there to destroy these goats.

Although the Ecuadorian government has been thinking about the problem of preserving local species for a long time and in 1959 announced the creation of a national park on the islands, it was only in the 80s that any significant measures began to be taken.

Now even volunteers are engaged in the destruction of, for example, blackberries. They are paid for flights from Europe, accommodation and meals. On one forum, a girl from Russia described how she was a volunteer there.

Places we visited in the Galapagos Islands.

There are airports on two islands: San Cristobal and Santa Cruz.

It is natural to rationally fly to one island and fly away from another. Because: - firstly, it is noticeably cheaper (airline policy).

Secondly: one segment is saved on moving between islands. And this is an important point, because sailing between the islands is long and not very comfortable, especially for those who have seasickness.

The average travel time for a speedboat between different islands is about 1.5 hours. Those that are slower take longer.

My Edited Video

Traveling on small boats at a decent speed across the Pacific Ocean is tough :) It’s better not to eat before the trip :). Here is a video, it shows how it bounces quite strongly on the waves.

There are two types of island hopping:

The first type is a cruise for several days on yachts with an overnight stay on yachts.

And the second type is to live on 2-3 main islands and move between them on regular boats.

There were many unpredictable moments with the cruise - for example, the quality of accommodation, food, and excursion programs were unknown in advance. Judging by the reviews, there may not be room on the yacht if you buy a tour 2-3 days before the start.

Paying in advance via the Internet a rather round sum (from $1,200 per person and above) to some local travel agency is somehow risky.

Therefore, the second option was chosen - to live on three main islands: San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela.

So - we fly from mainland Ecuador to the island of San Cristobal. The island is marked with a red flag on the map.

San Cristobal is an island relatively little visited by tourists. The bulk of tourists fly not here, but to the central island of Santa Cruz (it is marked in green on the map).

This is most likely due to the limitation of tourists in the number of days of their vacation.

The central island of Santa Cruz has many people, few animals and expensive hotels and excursions.

But on the islands of San Cristobal and Isabella, on the contrary, there are more animals and birds, but fewer people and hotels are inexpensive.

Each tourist entering the islands pays a tax of $110. A flight from the continent to the islands costs from $450.

It turns out that in order to visit the islands, a tourist must pay a minimum of 450 + 110 = 560 dollars.

With such high costs, it makes sense to be on the islands for at least 10 days. I think it’s irrational to go there for 3-5 days; you can see little in such a short period and with such a short period of time, and pay only $560 for getting to the islands!

There are organized tours by Russian tour operators, the program of which includes only 2 full days on the islands.

This is extremely little! We stayed for 12 full days + the day of arrival and the day of departure. During this time, we calmly managed to visit many interesting places and relax on deserted beaches.

Three airlines fly to the islands. “LAN” is considered the best in those parts. Website lan.com

On the island of San Cristobal the main settlement is Puerto Baquerizo Moreno.

We get into a taxi at the exit from the airport, and for 2 dollars and 2 minutes we arrive at the hotel that I had chosen in advance. Los Kaktus. 15 or 20 dollars (I don’t remember exactly). Located 3 blocks from the embankment. (Taxi drivers know all the hotels.)

Let's go to the embankment... There are a lot of fur seals on San Cristobal. They are everywhere: on the shore, on benches, under benches, sometimes they go into stores :)

You have to step over them if, for example, you go to a boat.;)

When we first met, we thought that they might bite. Then they realized that they were just playing, and began to swim with them almost in an embrace! :)

Photo https://princessa.site/

Photo https://princessa.site/

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Photo https://princessa.site/

It's a pity that I didn't have an underwater camera with me. Because cats are very funny.

They are so fast and graceful underwater!

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Photo by Discovery Channel. I am posting this so that dear readers have an idea of ​​the grace of seals under water.

...Here is a huge cat rushing straight at you, there are 20 centimeters left from his face to your mask, and it seems that there will be a collision with him, but at the last moment he sharply dodges to the side.

Moreover, the expression on his face is such - with superiority and condescension - as if he wants to say - “why are you people so clumsy?”

Because of this speed, owners of underwater cameras often do not have time to film the cat. Almost always only the “fins” of this beast are captured in the frame. Therefore, it is better to shoot a video.

One day, some phlegmatic cat swam towards me with his eyes closed, which surprised me greatly. And I already thought that we would collide. But at the last moment he opened his eyes sharply and widely - surprise was visible in them - “you see, there are all sorts of people walking around here, you can’t even swim with your eyes closed!”

Cats are lying on boats...

Here are two more on the boat.

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In 1831-1836, Charles Darwin traveled around the world on the Beagle, thanks to which the scientist founded the doctrine of evolution.

Darwin studied the geology and biology of the islands. After conducting numerous studies of the local flora and fauna, he collected a fairly large collection of animals and plants.

It was through observing the diversity of these birds that Darwin first came up with the idea of ​​the variability of species, on the basis of which he subsequently developed the theory of evolution.

In the history of geographical discovery, the voyage of the Beagle left its mark with the work of surveying the area to map the exact coastal contours of southern South America. However, the Beagle's worldwide fame is associated with Charles Darwin.

Naturally, Darwin is the most popular person in the Galapagos. Streets, a scientific station are named after him, I even saw him on tattoos of local residents!

Monument to Darwin. Perhaps a little strange. As one traveler said, he resembles some drunken intellectual who stands in line for a morning hangover and with his gesture seems to indicate that “you will follow me!” :)

There are two main excursions on the island:

1. - by boat to the island of Los Lobos and to the Leon Dormido rock (sleeping Lion) $50.

2. land - visit to El Junco Lagoon (The largest freshwater lake in the archipelago - El Junco - is located in a crater in the highlands) plus a visit to the La Galapagera turtle reserve and Loberia beach. $25

Some photos from the Excursion to Los Lobos Island and Leon Dormido Rock:

Blue-footed boobies. The older the bird, the more saturated the color of the legs. Those with a bluer color are chosen by females.

Communication with cats again. Photo https://princessa.site/

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Photo https://princessa.site/

8

There are many such beauties there.

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Excursion No. 2: La Galapagera Turtle Sanctuary plus Loberia Beach:

Loberia Beach is a 10-minute drive around the island of San Cristobal from the island's capital. This is a coral sandy beach with white sand.

Galapaguera - turtle park: It is located in the southeastern part of the island of San Cristobal, 22 km from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the capital of the island.

The park was built to improve the turtle population on the island, in an environment similar to their natural state.

Galapagos tortoises lay eggs between June and December. The female looks for a dry place where the clutch of eggs receives a sufficient amount of solar heat, with an average of 10 eggs per clutch.

Park workers take eggs from the clutches and place them in an incubator. Young turtles grow up in terrariums.

This is done in order to protect the eggs from predators brought to the islands by people (rats, cats, dogs).

Photo https://princessa.site/

Photo https://princessa.site/

On the way to the park. Photo https://princessa.site/

A turtle swims along the beach. Only the shell is visible above the water.

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Goodbye, San Cristobal... Let's sail to the second island of Santa Cruz...

Santa Cruz Island (central island of the archipelago).

On the island of Santa Cruz there are more tourists and hotels are more expensive ($20 without condo, and from $35 with condo).

There are such excursions from Santa Cruz Island by boat:

1. to Bartolome Island

2. to Seymour Norte Island

3.to the island of Floreana

Excursion to Bartolome Island:

Bartolome Island.

The name of the island comes from the name of Charles Darwin's friend, John Sullivan Bartolome, who was the captain of the Beagle.

Bartolomé's main attraction is the Pinnacle Rock and its landscapes, considered one of the most beautiful of all the Galapagos Islands.

The excursion includes: a short trek to the highest point, from where the best views of the island open, plus snorkeling on the beach.

Pinnacle Rock

Bartolome is the youngest of the Galapagos Islands. That’s why there are such “alien” landscapes around.

Some slightly blue plants - well, definitely - another planet!

The road to the top goes along a wooden flooring.

It is very hot on the island, so we see mirages, the same as in the Sahara Desert.

After a walk on “another planet” - swim on the beach. The beach or snorkeling is included in almost all excursions in the Galapagos.

Here's a penguin posing against the backdrop of Pinnacle Rock.

The Galapagos penguin is unique among other penguins in that it lives not in the Antarctic regions, but on the Galapagos Islands located on the equator.

The air temperature in the habitat ranges from +18-28 °C, water temperature - +22-24 °C.

Galapagos penguins have a black head and back, a white stripe that goes from the throat up to the head and reaches the eyes, and the penguins are white in front.

The mandible and the tip of the mandible are black, the mandible and the skin around the eyes are pinkish-yellow. The penguin builds nests on the shore, making burrows in the sand.

Penguins swim very quickly (see video):

A penguin frolics near the pier.

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Excursion to Seymour Norte Island:

Seymour North Island is a kind of bird paradise - a place chosen by bird colonies.

The island has a large population of blue-footed boobies and Galapagos gulls. It is also home to one of the largest frigate colonies.

Photo https://princessa.site/

Male frigatebirds, in order to attract the attention of the female to themselves and their nest, inflate a huge red sac on their chest, throw back their heads and utter a calling call.

The bird laid an egg...

Photo https://princessa.site/

Land orange iguana. Iguanas have different colors on different islands. On Floreana they will be red.

Opuntia cacti - iguanas feed on them.

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Excursion to Floreana Island.

Floreana is a volcanic island in the Galapagos archipelago, named after Juan José Flores, the first president of Ecuador, during whose reign Ecuador gained control of the islands.

Floreana was the first Galapagos island to be inhabited.

The ubiquitous cats never cease to amaze.

Florean red iguanas. If you look closely, you can also find a blue color on the back teeth.

During the excursion, pirate caves are visited, where these same pirates seemed to live.

In general, nothing special. You need to go to the caves past a German colony fenced with barbed wire.

In general, I saw negative descriptions about these Germans in the reports of tourists who rented rooms from them. It seems like there is bad energy there, they worshiped some kind of idol, etc.

We met two Germans on the way back from Floreana to Santa Cruz. They took our “trump” places at the stern of the boat. (At the stern there is the least amount of tossing on the waves).

They threw off our towel and rather blatantly did not want to vacate the seats.

I already remembered the Great Patriotic War, and really prepared to exert physical influence, even though it would not be easy.

But we managed to drive away the invaders through the captain. In general, they are somehow muddy, these Florian Germans :)

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Excursion on the island of Santa Cruz “Las Grietas Cleft”:

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Las Grietas Cleft is a landscape formed by lava fissures. “Two giant walls seemed to part, letting in a blue ribbon of salt water.”

Cacti over the Las Grietas crevice.

The road to Las Grietas, or rather there is no road - you need to walk on such stones.;)

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The third island we lived on: Isabella Island.

Isabela is the largest of the Galapagos Islands.
The island is named after Queen Isabella of Castile, who supported Columbus' voyage to America.
Isabela has 6 volcanoes, 4 of which are active.

Puerto Villamil is the main settlement, one might say a village with 5 streets :)

There is a calm and relaxed atmosphere here, no one locks the car.

You can leave your camera on the shore, go for a swim, and no one will touch your things.

Expensive cameras lie on the embankment almost unattended...

For those who travel for a long time in South America, the islands are a place where you can relax and not think about the dangers that exist on the mainland.

There are few tourists and local residents. Therefore, during the day, everyone usually meets more than once, and inevitably gets to know each other.

To say that the locals are lazy is an understatement! It’s not easy to find an open travel agency, it seems that they work for one hour in the morning and another hour in the evening :)

But on the other hand, how nice it is when they don’t come at you “Buy this!” . And this applies to all of the Galapagos Islands.

Excursions on Isabella:

Excursion on the island- to the Sierra Negra volcano and Chico volcano.

Boat excursions from Isabella Island:

1. excursion to Los Tuneles with two snorkeling sites.

2. 10-minute drive to Las Tintoreras, where you can snorkel and walk on an island made entirely of black volcanic rocks, in the form of bridges over the ocean.

So: Volcan Sierra Negra excursion (5-hour walking tour to the crater of the Sierra Negra volcanoes and Chico volcano, cost $30, start at 8.00)

The entire route is about 17 km long.

You must carry all food and water with you.

Sierra Negra has the second largest crater in the world with a diameter of 11 kilometers. Altitude above sea level - 1124 m.

The last eruption occurred in October 2005. As a result of the eruption, the bottom of the crater is covered with black lava.

The view is beautiful, but I liked even more the views along the way to the neighboring crater, Chico Volcano. see below:

Fantastic colors - landscapes of the Chico volcano.

Multi-colored volcanic rock.

The photo shows one of the lava tunnels.

Lava tunnels are created by the uneven cooling of lava flowing from the slopes of a volcano.

Due to contact with air, the surface layers of lava cool faster and become monolithic, forming a hard crust. It creates thermal insulation for the inner layers, which remain hot and fluid.

As a result, closer to the center of the lava tunnel, lava still flows, even when the upper layers have cooled.

And even when the source of lava dries up, the contents of the tube continue to slide downhill, leaving behind voids, which are called lava tunnels.

As lava exits the tunnel, it leaves behind an open passage at one end. Lava travels long distances in tunnels because the speed of the lava flow in the tubes can reach 60 km/h or more.

Photo https://princessa.site/

Photo https://princessa.site/

Photo https://princessa.site/

And it's raining over the ocean...

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Los Tunnels excursion (boat excursion + 2 snorkeling trips, $60):

First, we swim to a rock on which waves beautifully fall, and then the foaming water slowly recedes down the slope...

Birds live on the rock.

These creations of nature are more like bridges than tunnels.

Black natural arches rise above the water, on top of which cacti grow.

Blue-footed boobies.

On video: song of blue-footed boobies.

On the way back we swim to a place where there are many small sharks and large turtles.

There are a lot of turtles. We observe up to 4 pieces in the field of view at the same time.

Sharks hide in underwater arches. The guide deliberately scares (or kicks?:)) them from the other side of the cave, and they swim out from our side and rush under us.

Cute cats again)

Sunset on Isabella Island.

Iguanas on the beach.

Boat crew:)

Penguin in the port.

Flamingo. The closest place with flaminos is not far from the village - take a taxi for $2 or walk, past the turtle breeding station. (taxi drivers know).

Flamingo closer.

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Excursion Las Tintoreras (boat and walking tour + snorkeling, $25, start at 14.30, time 2.5 hours):

The name of the excursion comes from the word Las Tintoreras - “sharks”. Sharks and rays swim into the channel formed on the island, and it is convenient for tourists to watch them.

The island is full of iguanas:

There are so many iguanas that you think you won’t step on them! :)

Photo https://princessa.site/

Marine iguana is an iguana found exclusively in the Galapagos Islands.

Unique among modern lizards, it has the ability to spend most of its time at sea.

On the shore, a lizard basks in the sun, holding onto the rocks with the help of powerful claws. The black color helps keep you warm.

Excess salt swallowed with food is excreted through special glands through the nostrils. They funnyly spit salt water from their nostrils.

Penguin with blue-footed boobies.

Deserted beaches. O. Isabella.

photo https://princessa.site/

photo https://princessa.site/ According to legend, who will climb this pillar...

https://princessa.site/

Goodbye Isabella, the most relaxing island... We are sailing back to central Santa Cruz, because we are flying from there tomorrow to Peru.

We accidentally find out that one of the two regular boats broke down and we were offered to sail tomorrow. Tomorrow it will be close to the plane. That's why we took the money for the tickets.

If the flight is cancelled, you will find out about it when you come to board the boat, because travel agents don’t care and are rarely at work.;)

Although we found out about this earlier, there were still no places on the second boat. We (and other tourists) were taken by some “leftist” captain on a non-cruising boat.

Departure was 2 hours later than the regular boat. Along the way we met the first boat. It's broken! And all the passengers waited 2 hours for our boat to arrive.

And they put everyone with us in the middle of the ocean. The boat was full! Naturally they rode standing.

So allow a buffer day before your flight to Santa Cruz. Because if you sail from another island to Santa Cruz ON THE DAY OF DEPARTURE, you may not catch the plane.

Here's what I wanted to tell you briefly about the Galapagos Islands.

Diving is also praised there (though there are strong currents). We are not "divers". Therefore, few sharks were seen from the surface and only once a hammerhead shark.

Nastya once rode a sea turtle underwater.

The hot Galapagos was very welcome at the end of February. Next, the country of Peru awaited us, and then Bolivia.

The change in the situation was quite abrupt when we flew from the hot Galapagos, where there is a relaxed atmosphere and absence of crime, to the capital of Peru - the city of Lima.

We got into the city at one in the morning. All around... imagine footage from thriller films, where the streets are filled with gangs :) That’s exactly how it was here. And this is in the city center. The police are nowhere to be seen. There are a lot of them during the day, but at night they hide :).

In some taxis, the driver is separated from the passengers by bars.

Hotel employees communicate with you through locked bars.

In one hostel, an employee had the imprudence to open this grille and almost had a heart attack when I accidentally tried to go behind the counter to point my finger at the table on which the types of rooms and prices were written.

He backed away and shouted - don't come closer!

In Lima we stayed at the interesting Espana hostel. Inside it looks like a castle. An old building. In the corridors there are sculptures, mirrors... Real skulls for decoration. Colorful.

In the darkness, Nastya, as she walked, collided face-first with a peacock that was sitting on some branch.

The next day we saw that there were 2 peacocks, large parrots, turtles roaming under our feet... In general, the night meeting with Lima was a little stressful) . But Lima during the day made a favorable impression.

To be continued;) I hope I find time to continue... Thank you for your attention.

I'm looking for a travel companion, a travel companion.

P.S. A little about the organizational part: We never booked a hotel during the entire trip. We always chose the optimal quality-to-price ratio on the spot. We always bargained on the spot.

Since we were not tied to specific dates, I found domestic flights at a low price.

To do this, you need not only to “play with dates”, but also with the sequence of places.

For example, after going through dozens of date and sequence options, I found flights at the overall minimum price.

The route involved flying from mainland Ecuador to the island of San Cristobal and departing 2 weeks later from the island of Santa Cruz (Baltra).

If you swap at least one point of arrival and departure or at least one date, then the price soared by one and a half to two times.

Next, I took another step to reduce the total cost of flights. It's called "loopback". The fact is that we flew from Ukraine to Quito (Ecuador) and flew out from Lima (Peru). Accordingly, the domestic flight route began from Quito and ended in Lima.

A “loop” consists of adding one more segment to the route - namely, returning to the starting point. In our case, the city of Quito. But we didn’t need to go there, so we didn’t fly that last leg.

The price of the looped route turned out to be approximately $300 cheaper than the non-loop route. $615 per route, including $7 Ixpedia commission.

What connects the great Charles Darwin with a group of lost islands in the Pacific Ocean? Why are the Galapagos Islands so famous and what is special about them? The point is unique flora and fauna, which are endemics - a local, isolated ecosystem where different species have evolved without mixing with others. Darwin's stay on these islands was the impetus for his development of the evolutionary theory of the origin of species - natural selection, which became a great discovery. Let's see where the Galapagos Islands are located on the world map.

Location and climate of the Galapagos

The Galapagos Islands on the map are located in the Pacific Ocean, in the north-west of South America, and territorially belong to the Republic of Ecuador. They are separated from the mainland by 972 km. The volcanic archipelago consists of 19 islands, it is Ecuador's main attraction and the world's largest and most important nature reserve. The first of them were formed about 10 million years ago as a result of the movement of tectonic plates. The proximity to the equator and the local cold Humbaldt Current provided the archipelago with a comfortable two-season season with a stable air temperature of +23°C: from December to May is a warm and wet season, from June to November is cool and dry.

Summer in the Galapagos marks air and water temperatures of +20°C, with fairly strong winds blowing. The cold current cools the air temperature, but saturates the coastal waters with nutritious organisms that attract penguins, birds and schools of fish. The coast becomes densely populated, which tourists like, and albatrosses flock to the island of Hispaniola.

Warm tropical showers often occur during the winter months. Moisture evaporating from the ground creates a curtain of fog, but at an air and water temperature of +25°C, humidity does not cause discomfort. Autumn is the time for divers, as the underwater world becomes more diverse and beautiful. In winter, beautiful blue-footed boobies come here to nest. Spring in the Galapagos is wonderful - numerous endemic plants (plants that can only be found here) bloom, and the mystery of Galapagos tortoises laying eggs takes place on the beaches.

Discovery and history of Galapagos

The archipelago consists of 13 main, inhabited islands, 6 small ones and a scattering of small rocks and ledges above the surface of the water. The Galapagos Islands were discovered in the spring of 1535 by the Spaniard Tomas de Berlanga, who became the first European to set foot on the volcanic soil of one of the islands. His ship accidentally veered off course while traveling from Panama to Peru and stumbled upon an unfamiliar archipelago. Before the amazed eyes of the travelers stood in all its glory a primitive world inhabited by giant turtles. By the way, this is where the name came from – galapagos (Spanish), that is, “elephant turtle”.

Historical milestones

The Spanish conquistadors settled on the islands, but used them as a refuge for pirates who attacked passing ships until 1832 when "the government changed." The archipelago came into the possession of Ecuador. Three years later, the expedition of Charles Darwin and his comrade, naturalist Robert Fitzroy, landed on it. Thus began an era of exploration of a unique ecosystem.

The archipelago was declared a national reserve, but during the Second World War, an American air force base was located on Baltra Island, defending the Panama Canal and monitoring enemy submarines in the region. Among the famous explorers, Thor Heyerdahl also visited the Galapagos, who looked for traces of the Inca civilization there and found it.

History of the archipelago in dates:

• In 1959, the International Foundation was created in Brussels. Darwin, who in every possible way contributes to the study and preservation of a unique ecosystem;
• in 1964 - a research station was built on the island of Santa Cruz, which has carried out and is currently carrying out enormous work to remove “non-native” flora and fauna in order to preserve the purity of endemic species;
• in 1973 - the government of Ecuador founded a province on the islands;
• in 1978 - UNESCO added the archipelago to the World Heritage List;
• in 1985 it became a biosphere reserve;
• in 1986, coastal waters acquired the status of a nature protection zone. The area of ​​the ocean coastal area is 70 thousand km², it is the second largest after.

Description of the islands and attractions

The first navigational map of the archipelago was drawn up in 1684 by the pirate Ambrose Cowley. He named the islands after the names of his acquaintances, the filibusters and the English nobles who patronized them. You can visit 13 of the 19 islands, but only three of them have infrastructure and are built up with hotels and bungalows - Santa Cruz, Isabela and San Cristobal. The majority (90%!), on the contrary, have retained their pristine integrity and are given over to the possession of animals, reptiles and birds.

The archipelago is located almost on the equator, and the area is very turbulent: the junction of three tectonic plates regularly gives rise to numerous volcanic eruptions. But here the rarest representatives of the animal and plant world have found a home. The white, black and red virgin beaches are beautiful, birds of paradise sing in the relict forests, dolphins, fur seals, turtles and even penguins frolic in the clear turquoise water of the lagoons. It's always summer in the Galapagos.

Isabela is the largest island

The area is 4640 m², named after Queen Isabella, who sponsored the expeditions of Christopher Columbus. The island is shaped like a seahorse and is riddled with six volcanoes that make up its surface. The highest is Wolf (1707 m), the last eruption was recorded in 1982. In its crater there is a fairly large lake with islands. Another remarkable volcano in Isabela is Sierra Negra; its crater is the second largest in diameter in the world (10 km). Third in the ranking, Chico, powerfully erupted in 2005, and today its surroundings resemble a lunar landscape - tunnels, rivers and lava growths. The island has the salt lake Baltazar, which is favored by flocks of red flamingos, and there is a settlement - Puerto Villamil.

Isabela Island is interesting for its history, and its main attraction is the Western Wall. In the post-war years, a correctional colony functioned there. For educational purposes, prisoners were required to cut blocks from volcanic rock and carry them far from the mining site to where they were building a high wall. Hard labor under the scorching sun literally decimated the ranks of the poor people; few survived in such conditions. In memory of them there was a rather ridiculous wall 100 m long and 8 m high. In subsequent years, the prison building was razed to the ground, and the wall remained as a reminder of the atrocities of the guards.

At the western tip of Isabela there is a bay and a beach with interesting black sand. The coastal waters are literally teeming with inhabitants; divers are happy to be accompanied by turtles and sea lions. The island is also home to Galapagos penguins, cormorants, iguanas, pelicans, and gannets. The slopes of volcanoes are inhabited by finches that know how to use tools - cactus needles, buzzards, land turtles, flamingos and the Galapagos pigeon. But the most remarkable thing here is the scattering of small lovely lagoons, where birds of paradise sing, and the coastal waters are plied by hammerhead fish, ray fish, as well as sharks and killer whales.

Santa Cruz is the most populated

Another name is Indefatigable. This is the largest island in the shape of an almost even circle (area 985 km²), the center of the Galapagos civilization with the port city of Puerto Ayora, home to 12 thousand people. There are many entertainment options for tourists in Santa Cruz:

• beautiful Torguga Bay beach;
• diving and meeting marine life;
• trips on a yacht between the islands and on a glass-bottom boat;
• airplane or paragliding flights;
• watching giant turtles.

On Santa Cruz there is, as mentioned above, a research center named after. Charles Darwin, awarded the International Space Prize in 2002. The best naturalists, scientists, biologists, as well as students and volunteers work here. And in a bay called “Black Turtle”, in the thickets of a mangrove forest, ancient giants are engaged in procreation. Finches live among the spines of the prickly pear cactus, the main attraction of the local flora.

Fernandina - the never-dormant volcano

This westernmost island is essentially a periodically awakening volcano called La Cumbre (642 km²). The last two eruptions were in 2005 and 2009, the second was unusually powerful: hot lava and ash shot into the sky to a height of 7 kilometers. The island got its name from King Ferdinand II of Aragon, who was also the patron of Columbus. In the center of the island there is a caldera (basin) with a diameter of 6.5 km, formed as a result of the collapse of the crater. A lake periodically appears at its bottom and then disappears without a trace. Tourists are not allowed into the vicinity of the caldera due to the danger of landslides.

In fact, there is almost nothing to see on it, with the exception of mangroves on the coast, jutting into the ocean, and the largest population of marine iguanas in the town of Punta Espinoza. The rest of the landscape is a gray, frozen mass of lava. Urbina Bay has a coral reef with rich underwater life, and Elizabeth Bay is home to penguins. They share it with pelicans, who hide the caught fish in caves.

Baltra - Iguana Island

During World War II, there was a US Army air base here, and now there is an international airport connecting the archipelago with the mainland. Flights are operated daily by TAME airline. The island is home to iguanas. For the sake of the experiment, in the 30s, biologists moved 70 individuals to the nearby island of Seymour North, but the iguanas remaining on Baltra unexpectedly died during the war. In the post-war years at the Center. Darwin restored the population and repopulated Baltra with new generations.

Bartolome - a refuge for pirates

The tiny but lovely island (only 1.2 km²) is shaped like a horseshoe. From the highest point to the west, a stretch of lava stretches, storing a source of fresh water, which is almost absent throughout the entire archipelago. The Pirates' Cave was home to freebooters who robbed passing ships. There is stunning Pinnacle Rock, from the top of which there are wonderful views of the coffee-colored beach. Penguins, sea lions and turtles live at its base. Killer whales swim through an underwater tunnel connecting the sea and two bays.

Interesting sights of other islands can be seen in the table:

Threat to Galapagos species

However, no matter how isolated the archipelago is for foreign representatives of flora and fauna, the Galapagos has one enemy - man. It was he who violated the purity of endemics and threatened many rare species with extinction, and some of them completely disappeared from the face of the earth. In previous centuries, newly arriving “conquerors” released domestic animals onto the islands, which ran amok on protected lands. Cats destroyed egg laying, pigs dug the soil, damaging the root system of plants, and goats finished them off from above, eating leaves. Defenseless animals and plants found themselves defenseless in the face of barbarity. But in the last century, scientists sounded the alarm and carried out a massive cleansing of nature from strangers.

Wildlife of Galapagos

The seclusion of the Galapagos Islands has influenced the diversity and purity of species that have been preserved here, including through the work of scientists. Many inhabitants are found only on the archipelago: approximately 60 species of birds, many fish and marine life.

“The country of unafraid animals” is the appropriate name for the Galapagos. On any island you can everywhere come across a colored iguana sleeping on a rock, or flirting frigatebirds, or bathing penguins, as well as slow-moving turtles. Animals are friendly and trusting, because they have no enemies, because there are no predators. The world of the archipelago is amazing, where those who, it would seem, do not belong here at all, live - penguins and seals.

Humbaldt Penguins

So that Galapagos penguins could survive in a climate unusual for them - too warm and dry, they evolved: local ones are very small in size, only 50 cm tall. The plumage is less dense than that of their Arctic counterparts, and there is less subcutaneous fat. To lower its body temperature, the Galapagos penguin can breathe frequently with its mouth open, just like a dog.

They are nocturnal, and during the day, in the heat of the day, they sit out in the water. Penguins mainly choose the western islands, where the sea temperature is lower due to cold currents, and they breed on Isabela and Fernandina.

Swimming with penguins in the Galapagos:

Land elephant turtles

Galapagos tortoises are so ancient that they are jokingly called the same age as the universe. These are the largest turtles on the planet, the weight of other individuals reaches six centners, and the length is up to two meters. Giants are long-lived, most trample the earth for more than a century, but cases have been recorded when captured turtles lived for at least 170 years.

These vertebrate giants inhabit 7 islands of the archipelago, and on islands with different climates their appearance differs. So, in places where there is higher humidity at higher elevations, the shell of turtles is dome-shaped, the neck is short, and the animal itself is large. On flat islands with a dry climate, the shell took on the shape of a saddle, the neck became long, and the size of the turtle was smaller. This example makes clear Darwin's theory of the evolution of species.

According to Darwin, the evolution of all living things is based on three basic facts: more offspring are born than can survive; representatives of different species have different traits to adapt to the conditions offered; these traits are heritable. Thus, competition forms within species and only the strongest can survive, passing on strong genes to their offspring. This is how the principle of natural selection works.

Elephant turtles almost became extinct in the 20th century because they were exterminated en masse for their meat and shell. Of the 250 thousand of these reptiles in the 70s, only 3,000 remained. But scientists are busy resurrecting the population and have developed a program for growing relict armored reptiles on special farms. The raised individuals are then released. In the 21st century, the number of Galapagos tortoises is 19 thousand, and this species is designated as vulnerable.

Marine iguana

A unique animal that lives only on these islands. The only sea lizard on the planet that, due to a lack of terrestrial food, has evolved and now feeds on algae. Iguanas slide into the water in places where it has warmed up enough and dive mainly into shallow water. What’s amazing is that they can hold their breath for a whole hour, during which time the oxygen stored before diving enters only the vital organs. Coming out of the water, the lizard hurries to quickly warm up in the sun, clinging to the hot stones, otherwise it may die from hypothermia. Its powerful claws form a strong grip even with smooth stone.

Land iguana

A beautiful creature, shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. It feeds on juicy prickly pears and fruits. An iguana can sit under a cactus for hours and wait for the fruit to fall. Eats it along with the thorns. The reptile pulls out needles stuck in its mouth with its paw or by rotating its tongue; it can also remove spines from its body with its paw. Not all iguanas come in different colors; many gray land iguanas can be found on the islands. These are hybrids - the offspring of marine and land iguanas. Aquatic representatives of the species often attack land females and mate with them. Well, it has been established whether hybrids are capable of procreation.

This is an amazing bird. During the mating season, males inflate a huge bright red sac hanging on the larynx to attract females. The name was obtained due to the tendency to accompany ships - frigates - in the hope of a treat. Birds cannot land on the water, because once they get wet, they will no longer be able to take off, so they always hover over the sea. Before he starts attracting a female, the male builds a cozy nest.

Blue-footed boobies

A beautiful and unusual bird of quite large size - females reach a height of 80 cm. Its appearance justifies its name, since its legs with swimming membranes are blue. The brightness of the color is crucial when a female chooses a male for mating. The gannet is laid once every 8 months, with 2-3 eggs. Parents take turns sitting on the nest for 40 days, and the hatched chicks remain in it for over three months.

Gannets feed on sea fish, they are excellent divers - the bird dives into the water from a height and goes vertically down to a depth of 25 m. Interestingly, the process of capturing fish occurs exclusively on the way back to the surface, when floating. Gannets are prone to courage; the bird is not afraid of anyone, even humans, and fiercely defends the nest. The gannet is not endemic to the Galapagos, the islands are just the preferences of these birds, and you can see them in Mexico, in the Gulf of California, and on the islands.

Gannet courting his girlfriend:

Darwin's finches

At first glance, an ordinary small bird. But its importance in evolution is invaluable. Using the example of finches, the great scientist derived his theory of natural selection. In short: the Darwin's finch subspecies is endemic to the Galapagos; millions of years ago, its ancestors were carried to the archipelago by a tailwind. Initially, one species of finch lived on all the islands, but under the influence of the external environment it was forced to evolve. Different islands have their own climate and vegetation, so the birds everywhere have different beak shapes. In some it is thick and wide, in others it is narrow and sharp, that is, the beaks have changed under different conditions of obtaining food.

In 1858, Darwin’s monumental work “The Origin of Species” was published, which the church anathematized. From the point of view of religion, the world was created by the Creator, accordingly, he also created 13 different finches for the 13 islands of the Galapagos.

The Galapagos Islands are home to a variety of other wildlife:

• the green sea turtle is a beautiful reptile famous for always returning to its place of birth, thousands of miles away, to lay its eggs;
• sea ​​lions and seals - both species belong to the genus of eared seals;
• The Galapagos cormorant is a land bird that has lost the ability to fly. It feeds on fish no further than 100 m from the shore, and enters the water, rotating with its whole body, as if drilling into it;
• The buzzard, a falcon approximately 55 cm in length, is the only predator of the archipelago. Feeds on lizards and small iguanas;
• white (masked) booby - has a clear rim around its beak and black edging on its wings. She always lays two eggs, but only one chick survives, the strongest one, and the parents push the weak one out of the nest (natural selection in action!).

The Galapagos is a unique place, and scientists put a lot of effort into preserving the populations in their “pure” form. The archipelago is difficult, expensive and time-consuming to get to, but all the effort is worth it for the opportunity to see incredible animals and birds up close. They lived long before humans appeared on the planet as a species.