What pencils to use to draw the face of a textile doll. How to paint a doll's eyes with acrylic paints? Eyes like real ones

Somewhere in the middle of 2009, I plunged headlong into the world of dolls and learned something about custom, which immediately captured my consciousness as a way of interacting with a doll. For several months it was difficult to decide on my own experiments, but in the end I tried to redraw my old Barbie and reflash her. It turned out terrible, and the result for a long time discouraged me from trying again, but nuances immediately became obvious that would hardly have occurred to me in advance. And the next time (and it did happen) I approached the question more carefully. There were no more damaged dolls, and all further results can be viewed.

Five years ago, it was quite difficult to collect useful information on redraws: I scoured dollplanet and bjd-club more than once up and down, collecting useful information bit by bit, but even what was found did not create a clear picture. Perhaps today the situation has changed, and it is easier to find information, but judging by the questions that I am sometimes asked, not much. Therefore, I want to reveal the topic of puppet re-drawings as fully as possible for those who are going to devote themselves to this matter, and to protect them from possible mistakes. We will talk about redrawing vinyl/rubber doll faces first of all.

General provisions

As your first “victim,” you should choose a doll that you generally like, but don’t feel sorry for.
Do not choose small Barbie-sized dolls for your first experiments - the smaller the face, the more difficult it is to draw the details and the more noticeable any flaws will be, such as uneven and thick lines or too generous a layer of paint. The optimal size is probably Monster High.
Decide in advance on the image you will implement.
Accept that you are unlikely to get anything worthwhile the first time. From the second - too.
If it turned out bad, admit to yourself that it turned out bad and redo it. Honesty with yourself is a useful habit that will help you eventually reach a decent level of redrawing or, conversely, make you understand one day that it’s time to stop torturing dolls. Reasoning from the category “well, it may be crooked, but I still think it’s very cute)))))” or “I’m unlikely to do better, so this will do” mean that either you didn’t really want to learn, or you are cowardly and lazy. By the way, a short break of a couple of days usually allows you to understand whether you want to continue or not. The main thing is not to despair too much, because see point 4.
In order for your drawn eyes, eyelashes, eyebrows and lips to look natural, you need a lot of visual experience. Look at photographs of people, study the features of the patterns of the iris of the eyes, the location of the eyebrows, the color combination of hair-eyebrows-eyelashes, see how the light and shade is arranged on the faces. It is no less useful to look through the works of masters of puppet re-drawings - with the same inquisitive, studying approach.
There is no limit to perfection, always strive to improve your skills. More practice!

Safety precautions

No need to skip this section :) Many people are accustomed to letting warnings about the need to take precautions fall on deaf ears, and then being surprised by “sudden” ailments. Not all materials used are safe, and some are seriously toxic if certain rules are not followed.

It is advisable to do make-up in a separate, well-ventilated room (workshop, balcony, loggia) and in clothes in which you will not later cook food or hug children and animals.
Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling paints, varnishes, etc.
Don't neglect safety precautions, especially when it comes to your health and home.

Materials and tools

I provide the basic materials that are needed when creating each make-up.

1. Matte varnish spray
Transparent matte spray varnish is used to prime the doll's face before painting and for layering and final fixing of makeup. Perfect Mr. Super Clear Matt (popularly just “clear”) and Zoukeimura: they create a truly matte surface, do not turn yellow with repeated layers and do not leave stickiness. I also know that some artists like Tamya TS-80 and Maimeri IDEA Matte varnishes. I can’t say anything about the first one - I haven’t tried it, but I didn’t like the second one - “Idea”. Despite long and thorough shaking, the result was still satin rather than matte, and the stickiness was noticeable. In addition, the sprayer “spit” large drops, which remained noticeable after drying.

The principle of operation is the same: shake the can thoroughly for ~1 minute, spray the varnish onto the doll’s face in an even layer from a distance of 30 cm, let it dry completely (on average, 5-15 minutes). Repeat if necessary.
What to remove: Nail polish removers without acetone, without oils and without dyes. Also - alcohol and Mr. Thinner.

Important: these varnishes are a toxic and smelly substance, and you can only work with them in the correct respirator and in a well-ventilated area, away from utensils, food, children and animals. The correct respirator does not mean a cloth with elastic bands, but a half-mask respirator with normal aerosol filters (for example, 3M). It is also advisable to protect your hands, eyes, hair and all parts of your body that are exposed while working with varnish. If varnish gets on your skin, you need to thoroughly wash the area with warm water and soap.

Alternative: a respirator costs about 1500 rubles, varnish from ~300 to 1000 rubles, in total - quite a decent amount, which is a pity to spend if you are not sure that the repaintings will work. At the initial stage, you can get by with acrylic matte varnish in a jar, applied with a brush. From my experience, Pebeo Vernis Mat has proven itself well. You need to shake the jar thoroughly, and then apply a thin layer of varnish with a soft brush on the doll’s face and wait until it dries completely. After that, start painting. Apply varnish again over the finished makeup.
Pros of this method: the varnish does not smell of anything, and you can do without a respirator.
Minuses: if you use pastels and/or acrylic pencils when creating make-up, then, of course, you will smear everything with a brush and varnish, so this method is only suitable for those who work exclusively with acrylic paint. Or, if you really plan to train a lot and hard (draw - erase, draw - erase), then you can do this without fixing the makeup, and then it doesn’t matter what you draw with, and in this case the varnish is needed solely for priming.

2. Acrylic paints
I started with the “Sonnet” set, and during the painting process I had no complaints, but time has shown that Sonnet’s red and green colors are insidious: green saturates the soil right through and colors the vinyl/rubber a vibrant yellow hue. This may not be visible under paint, but if you decide to redo the doll’s makeup and erase it, you will see everything with your own eyes. And red paint over time loses its red pigment and fades, leaving something indistinct orange in its place. In general, I quickly switched to Maimeri (regular acrilico and from the Polycolor series) in separate tubes: primary colors with which you can mix all the other necessary colors - black, white, ultramarine, carmine, permanent red and natural sienna.

If the acrylic has not had time to dry, it can be soaked with a brush dipped in water and removed - either with a dry brush or with a cotton swab. If the acrylic has dried, it is unlikely that you will be able to remove it without damaging the matte finish, and most likely you will have to do it all over again.

Important: painting on vinyl/rubber/polyurethane, etc. is done exactly acrylic artistic paint. If you only have oil paint at home and you think you can use it, that’s not true. At best, it will simply never dry out, and at worst, it will damage the material from which the doll is made.

3. Pastel
The pastel must be dry, not oily.
Pastels are convenient for drawing blush, shadows, as well as sculpting the face and buffing the body. You can buy a set, or you can buy individual crayons in the colors you need. In the budget category, Faber Castell and Mungyo pastels have proven themselves well (I personally liked Mungyo better - it seems more pigmented compared to Faber Castel), while Rembrandt and Schmincke are an order of magnitude more expensive and cool (you don’t even have to think about them at the beginning of experiments with redrawings : Faber Castell or Mungyo are quite enough).
There are two ways to work with pastel: 1) scrape off a certain amount of pastel dust from the chalk (with a sharp blade/breadboard knife or simply rub the chalk on the paper, small pastel crumbs themselves chip off from friction) and put it on a brush; 2) pick up pigment with a brush directly from the chalk. After this, you need to remove excess pigment from the brush by “stomping” it on a paper napkin, for example, otherwise you will get sloppy streaks on a doll’s face instead of subtle transitions.
The pastel is removed with a kneaded eraser (available in all art stores).

Important: the specificity of pastels is such that the required color intensity is built up gradually, layer by layer. You can’t just pour in more pigment and smear it thoroughly - it will turn out dirty and sloppy.

4. Watercolor pencils
Theoretically, with a certain skill, you can paint everything you need using acrylic in combination with pastel. But you can also achieve good results using only pastels and watercolor pencils. The advantage of acrylic is the density and intensity of the coating. The advantage of pencils is the ability to painlessly correct what you have drawn using a damp cotton swab or eraser. And, of course, nothing prevents you from combining all three materials.
In the case of pencils, you definitely shouldn’t buy a set, because most of the colors will never be useful to you. So-so option - Koh-i-noor pencils, they can eat through the soil into the material from which the doll is made. According to rumors, Derwent pencils are quite good, but I liked Faber Castell, Albrecht Dürer series. Today I have them in this set and quantity, but at first half was enough:

Pencils must be well sharpened. Do not put too much pressure on them when painting - this can scratch the matte finish. Well, don’t forget about the basic feature of watercolor pencils - if you draw a wet brush along a pencil line, you will get a watercolor, colorful line (this is important if you don’t like the obvious pencil look of makeup or if somewhere it shouldn’t look like pencil). Alternatively, you can pick up color from a pencil with a wet brush and paint as you would with regular paint.
I draw eyebrows, eyelashes, freckles and sometimes lips with pencils.

5. Glossy acrylic varnish
Needed to add shine to the lips and, if necessary, the doll’s eyelids and eyes. This polish should not be in a spray, as you might guess. Here you can use any glossy acrylic varnish that you can find in an art store. At first I had a Japanese Sealer super gloss (Padico), then some ordinary German one from Hobby Line, the price difference between them was ~400 rubles, and the result was indistinguishable.
It is hardly possible to remove the varnish without damaging what is underneath, so be careful when applying.
The varnish is practically odorless and can be washed off hands and hands with water.
If you first dilute the varnish with water on the palette, the coating will have a delicately shiny, satin finish.
Important: in principle, this is obvious, but just in case, let me remind you that the glossy varnish is applied at the very end, after the final fixing of the makeup with clear. If you do the opposite, the matte spray will “gobble up” all the shine.

6. Brushes
You need several brushes: thin round ones for drawing small details with acrylic (3/0-5/0 synthetic), the same or slightly thicker ones for applying glossy varnish (00 or 0), as well as a couple of round and flat brushes of different sizes for applying pastels : smaller ones - for shadows and folds, larger ones - for blush and blush, as well as a super-clean brush for brushing away random specks of dust, lint and scattered grains of pastel from the doll's face. For pastels, natural and synthetic ones suited me best. cosmetic brushes Artistic brushes, as a rule, have the specificity that the thicker the brush, the longer the bristles. This is not very convenient - the pastel picks up worse and then scatters everywhere. Among cosmetic brushes there are many more interesting shapes and types, including thick short-haired brushes for eye shadow and lipstick.
Why you should duplicate pastel brushes: one brush = one color. You cannot pick up different colors of pastel with the same brush without washing - there will be dirty stains on the doll's face. And running around washing and drying a brush after each color is a dubious pleasure.
My brushes:

Important: a brush for brushing off “artifacts” is not an empty whim: you should not blow anything off the doll. Along with this “blowing”, droplets of saliva can fly in, which can ruin all your delicate work with pastels or watercolor pencils, leaving blurry spots.

7. The rest
cotton swabs (for applying pastels in some cases, as well as for correcting watercolor pencils);
cotton pads (in combination with a cleanser listed in the post - to remove Total);
toothpicks (if you wrap a piece of cotton wool around the tip of a toothpick, it will be more convenient to correct the watercolor pencil);
products for removing art from a doll's face: nail polish remover without acetone, oils and dyes/alcohol/Mr. Thinner;
respirator (if you work with sprays);
protective gloves (regular rubber ones that are comfortable for you);
paper napkins/towels (to remove excess moisture from brushes, dry hands, etc.).

How to draw (sequence of actions)

Degrease the doll's face (alcohol/soap+water) and dry thoroughly.
Apply a protective layer - primer (transparent matte varnish/spray varnish).
Paint. Each successful stage can be fixed with spray varnish.
When everything is ready (and you are satisfied with the result), apply the final sealing layer of matte varnish.
Apply glossy varnish where needed.
Rejoice. Or, if the result is not what you wanted, erase everything and start from step 1.

Where can I buy

All of the listed spray varnishes can already be obtained without any problems in Russia (Google and Yandex help) and on ebay.com, of course.
Faber Castell pastels are not uncommon in our art. stores, Mungyo pastels are also found.
Watercolor pencils, glossy varnishes, matte varnishes in jars, acrylic paints - fine. stores
Brushes - in art and cosmetic stores.
Respirator and gloves - in stores that deal with airbrushing products, and in all kinds of construction and repair shops.
Mr. Thinner - shops for modellers and ebay.com.

Make sure that they don’t give you oil pastels instead of dry ones and glossy varnishes instead of matte ones;)

That's all. If you have any additions to the above, I would be glad to receive your comments.

When reposting, please indicate.

If after reading this article any details of the redrawing process are still unclear to you, feel free to ask questions in the comments!

Questions and answers

V.: Hello! Thank you very much for the advice. Please tell me if Mr. is suitable. Super Clear Matt for woven surfaces (cotton, linen)? For painting I use water-based acrylic, pastel pencils... sometimes even charcoal pencils. Those. I first saturate the fabric with highly diluted acrylic, then apply everything else. Any touch can cause the pencil to smear. Please advise what invisible means to fix the painting? I will be very grateful to you. I just started getting into this, I don’t know anything at all)

O.: Hello! I’m not sure that it’s worth using clear on fabric (Are you talking about textile dolls?). There is a suspicion that due to the texture of the fabric and its susceptibility to deformation and creasing, the clear may lie unevenly and/or crack, and then it will look like “dandruff”. And if the clear can be washed off from plastic/vinyl and the make-up can be remade, then this trick will not work with fabric.
I am sure that there are special fabric fixatives that create a more flexible coating than that of clear, resistant to minor creasing/deformation. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you the exact names. I also know that some people use hairspray - its properties are quite suitable.

V.: Hello. Thank you for such an interesting and useful article. Tell me, have you come across Blythe dolls, what is the best way to wash their makeup? The paint simply rolls off and is carried away from nail polish remover (without acetone); the material of the doll's head does not allow the use of acetone. Thank you in advance.

O.: Hello! Thank you for the kind words:)
I dealt with two Blythes - stock and TBL, I removed the makeup of both with fine sponge sandpaper (3M ultrafine), i.e. I just sanded it off.

V.: Hello! Can you tell me what paints are best to use on the rubber head of a vintage German doll? And is pastel suitable for making blush?

O.: Hello! I would follow the same algorithm: first prime with clear, then acrylic/pastel, then clear again and then, if necessary, glossy varnish on the sponges. You shouldn’t paint directly on the rubber with either paint or pastels - it will probably get stuck and cause streaks. Blush pastels are suitable, but only dry ones (oil pastels do not blend well and can eat into the rubber even through a layer of primer).

V.: Hello. Tell me, is it necessary to fix the makeup on the blaze with a clerk?

O.: Hello! It is necessary, otherwise it is easy to damage.

Eyes are the mirror of the soul not only of a person, but also of a doll. The way you portray them, you will imprint this mood on the doll forever. Therefore, we must approach this issue responsibly. How to draw a doll's eyes correctly and give it a lively look, we’ll learn from the master class, as well as from small cheat sheets on images of eyes in drawn fairy-tale characters and people.

First, we will walk you through a step-by-step master class on drawing eyes on a ceramic figurine in the form of a doll.

To work, we need the ceramic toy itself,
acrylic paints in white, black, dark brown, pink, blue,
brushes convenient for drawing eyes and eyebrows - angular and thin.

How to draw eyes step by step

Stage 1
With white paint we fill the entire base-recess for the future eye.

Stage 2
We highlight the upper eyelid of the doll with a light pink color, as in photo No. 2

Stage 3
We draw the iris of the eyes with blue paint, having previously made light sketches with a pencil so that they are the same size. Try to draw the edges of the iris evenly. See photo #3.

Stage 4
We separate, as in photo No. 4, the upper eyelid from the eye. To do this, draw a line with black or dark brown paint with a thin brush, and then make eyelashes.

Stage 5
We carefully form the pupils with black paint, as in photo No. 5.

Stage 7
Draw eyebrows with black or dark brown paint.

Stage 8
We enliven the doll's look with the help of highlights. To do this, we put white dots on the pupils of the eyes like in photo No. 8.

This is how we drew the eyes and designed the doll’s face.
If you draw dolls on paper, you can use these cheat sheets for drawing eyes. Eyes can be drawn in different shapes, different shades and in different ways.
So – watch, learn and draw!

We are learning to draw a doll step by step, drawing a doll is not difficult, and even if you have never drawn, then after looking at the instructions with descriptions and pictures, you will definitely learn how to draw a doll. There are two ways to draw a doll: easy and more difficult.

How to draw a simple doll step by step

1. Draw a circle at the top of the sheet - this will be the doll’s head.
2. Next we draw the body, it should be smaller in width than the head. The parts are in contact.
3. Erase the upper part of the oval so that the neck does not cover the head.
4. The lower limbs are depicted without fingers in the form of elongated ovals.
5. Draw your hands under your head. There are no clearly defined shoulders in the toys. First we draw the left one.
6. Now we draw the right one. Hands should be on the same line. Then slightly lengthen your left arm.
7. Do the same with the right hand to make the upper limbs more graceful.
8. To begin, mark the beginning and end of the skirt with two lines to make it easier to connect them.

9. Connect the skirt parts with slightly curved lines so that the garment resembles an a-line.
10. We make the figure of the toy thinner and more refined, slightly adjusting the oval.
11. Draw the collar in the form of a semicircle. It doesn't have to be big. With its help we separate clothes from the body.
12. Shoes are depicted in the form of slippers, which are slightly larger than the feet themselves.
13. In the circle that represents the head, we form the face and immediately separate the hair.
14. Erase the extra lines. The dolls' faces are made to resemble human faces, so they are not perfectly round.
15. Draw bangs by adding a few lines on the hair.
16. Draw the tails of approximately the same length. In the picture they are at the back, but you can depict them on the left and right.

17. On clothes, in addition to a flower, you can draw anything: ice cream, a smiley face, a heart. Or choose another flower.
18. To ensure that the eyes are at the same level, you can very lightly draw a horizontal line and depict them on it.
19. Don't forget to add details: long eyelashes and pupils.
20. The last detail is a smile and dots in the shape of a nose.
21. And the last thing left is to color the toy as you want.

How to draw a beautiful doll step by step

1. We draw the doll’s silhouette using simple lines and geometric shapes; this is done to make it easier to draw everything else later.
2. Draw the hair on the doll’s head.
3. Draw the details of the doll’s face. First, draw the big eyes, then the eyebrows, nose and mouth.

4. Draw the top part of the doll’s dress.
5. Draw both hands of the doll.
6. Draw the lower part of the dress.

7. Now we draw the legs and shoes on them.
8. Let's add pomp to the doll's hairstyle.
9. Color the doll’s drawing with colored pencils.

Handmade textile dolls look very creative and attractive. They are usually made to give as a gift to someone or to decorate the interior. These lovely hand-made young ladies with amazingly lively, heavenly beauty eyes, all dressed in lace, frills and finely crafted flounces, seem to be programmed to radiate magnetism, create comfort and add charm to every place where they find themselves.

Below we will talk about how to paint eyes on such a doll with acrylic paints. There is nothing difficult about this - even a beginner can cope with the task, but you will most likely have to practice.

About the “revival” of the doll

Don't worry if you've never done this. It is important to understand the principle of face painting, and then everything will go as usual. Everyone knows what is most important on the face. That's right, these are windows into the soul, that is, the eyes. Now it is clear that the beauty of the future doll depends entirely on how we draw the organs of vision. Now let's get to work.

Tools and materials

We will need the following available tools:

synthetic brushes;
acrylic paints;
primed doll carcass;
a sheet of paper for a sketch;
water;
a simple pencil and eraser;
PVA glue.

Eye imaging process

Everyone knows that our eye has the shape of a ball, covered on top by a movable eyelid with winged eyelashes. In the light, a glare appears near the eyes and at the same time a shadow from the upper eyelid. All lines in the drawing must not be the same in intensity! The line of the upper eyelid is thicker and brighter, and the line of the lower eyelid is thinner and more muted.

The drawing order is as follows:

Draw a face on paper - this way you’ll quickly get used to it and get a cheat sheet that you can look at without spoiling the doll. After all, it’s much better to throw away the paper rather than the doll.
Prime the face with glue and dry. Now the paint should adhere better, and your face will look “porcelain.” Additionally, you can brush over the neck and legs - the neck will become stronger, and the legs will be more convenient to paint.
Draw eyes, height and nose on your face with a simple pencil. Fill the eye with white paint (the eyelid also needs to be painted over). Use the rest of the composition (at the end of the brush) to mark the eyebrows and nose (just make dots). Ready? Wash the brush, wait until the paint dries, and use a pencil to outline the contour of the eyelid and iris.
Now you can draw the iris. To do this, apply paint to the brush as carefully as possible. Dip the brush in water, run it over a sheet of paper to remove excess paint, and create shadows on the whites of the eyes (they will give a natural look). If the brush no longer leaves a mark, rinse it again and pass it over the sheet, pick up paint, smear it on the paper and draw on the eyelid.
Rinse the brush, remove excess water from it and only then dip it into the paint - 1 mm will be enough. Press your elbow harder into the tabletop and begin to outline the contour of your eyelid using clear lines. Make a pupil, add shadows to the iris.
Run a washed brush over a sheet of paper - if a mark remains, shade the areas under the nose and at the top of the eyelid, outline the mouth. If the brush doesn't paint at all, dip it in water again.
Take some white paint, apply highlights and lighten the bottom of the iris a little.

The Tilda doll, thanks to its original individuality, can afford to be without a face, mouth, nose, and with dotted eyes. But in all other cases, painting a doll’s face is one of the main ways to put character and soul into a craft. The hackneyed phrase “the eyes are the mirror of the soul” is 100% right in this case. It is the expression of the doll’s face, the raised or lowered corners of the mouth, and the shape of the eyebrows that tell about the character of the textile doll. Therefore, it is very important to paint her face the way the author intended and according to all the laws of plasticity.

A textile caramel doll should be cheerful, a little naive, and therefore a little surprised. A smiling mouth and a round snub nose are already stitched along the contour. All we have to do is apply decorative makeup.

We will paint with acrylic paints, although in some places it is allowed to apply war paint in oils. Prepare in advance a palette for diluting paint, brushes of different thicknesses and hardness, and white paper for testing.

Let's start the master class with preparing the paint. Place a very small amount of it on the palette and dip the tip of a dry, hard brush. Choose a tone slightly darker than the “skin” of the toy. Brush excess paint onto a piece of paper.

Using light, quick strokes, apply the paint to the cheeks, in the grooves of the stitches, near the eyes and mouth. You can tint the nose a little. If the paint does not go on smoothly enough, blend it with a cotton swab.

Apply white paint to the eye circles.

Mark the middle of the eye with a pencil, then step back a little upward (1-2 mm) and draw a large circle from this center. Step back another 1 mm and draw a smaller circle. Make your eyes the same. First paint a large circle with light brown paint, then, without waiting for it to dry, make the outer diameter dark with a smooth transition to light brown towards the center. Once dry, outline the black pupil.

Using a thin brush, make two white spots on both pupils. One is small, the other is large. Look how our doll's eyes sparkled. This is how the hand-drawn plastic surgery of the face turned out. All you have to do is brush a little dry red paint over your lips and the caramel is ready.

Advice. For tinting, you can use a mixture of ground cinnamon and fine instant coffee.

We will start this master class with pencil drawing. There are certain rules and proportions by which all features are drawn, not only for dolls. Imagine that your face is a circle. Divide it mentally into 4 equal sectors. It is on the horizontal axis that the inner corners of the eyes and the centers of the pupils will be located. The outer corners, depending on the facial plastic surgery, can be lower, higher and generally asymmetrical to each other. In our case they are lowered down. Melancholic textile doll. Raised eyebrows at the nose also indicate that this craft does not have a very happy life.

We draw the pupils, eyelids and mouth.
Paint the squirrels with a thin brush of white paint.
Draw the blue pupil.
Draw a black circle in the center so that it touches the eyelid.
Place two white dots (small and large) on the black circle.
Blend dry white paint over the blue iris. Try to ensure that all manipulations performed are the same in both eyes.
Make shadows. They are also applied with dry pastel. Blue along the edges of the whites and black along the borders of the eyelids. Draw eyelashes, nose, lips.
Use dry paint or pastels to create a subtle blush.
Here you go! All that remains is to add a few small freckles, put a piquant hat with red curls on her head and the sad lady is ready.

Notice how lively the eyes are on the dolls, which are painted by the wonderful needlewoman Irina Khochina. It seems that these are not painted, but at least glass pupils. Irina explains how to achieve this in one of her master classes.

Always remember that the eye is a large sphere inserted into the head. The shadows on it are located in the same way as on the sphere. The extreme, lightest point is the highlight, followed by light, penumbra and, finally, shadow.

Draw two identical circles on the central axis (in the middle of the face). It always visually seems that the eyes should be a little higher to the hairline. This visual illusion occurs due to the fact that the lower part of the face is more loaded with elements (nose, mouth, chin).
Then draw eyelids from below and above deep into the circle.
The pupil should be slightly covered by the upper eyelid. Only in a very frightened person can it be in the middle without touching the eyelids. But it won't look nice.
The next step is toning the brow ridges. Slightly darken the distance from the eye to the eyebrow. This will create depth and volume.
We paint the eye with off-white paint so that the absolutely white highlight stands out against this background.
We paint the iris and black pupil. Don't use pure color. Add a little brown to the blue, etc. The iris also changes saturation from the edge to the center.
Draw the shadow under the eyelid.
We place two white dots relative to the center of the eye opposite each other. One point will represent the highlight (lower), the second (upper) its reflection.
We outline the eye. The line closer to the highlight should be brighter. Draw the upper eyelid clearly, because it is covered in dark eyelashes and has a shadow. Draw the line of the lower eyelid lighter and almost dotted, darkening towards the outer corner.
All that remains is to tint the volume of the eyelids, nose and lips.
And, of course, almost real glued eyelashes.