How to make guitar strings. How to change strings on an electric guitar with Floyd Rose

Replacing stringsOn guitar is an important and necessary procedure that every guitarist should learn. Sooner or later in his practice there comes a time when the string breaks or stops sounding due to excessive contamination. This is precisely the signal to install a new kit. The process is quite simple in itself, but it will take time to master it. The most important thing is to do everything carefully and take your time.

First of all, it is worth remembering a few simple rules that relate not even to the process itself, but to the general care of the instrument. So:

1. The most important thing is to always change strings as a whole set. The fact is that they are selected specifically for tension - it is balanced, and the entire thickness evenly pulls the bar. If one string on your guitar breaks, and you install not the entire set on it, but only the missing one, then the force ceases to be uniform, and because of this, for example, it can start .
2. Initially, do not tighten the strings, and start tuning only when all six pieces are installed and slightly tightened. This will avoid situations where the new set breaks due to something being too tight.
3. For a more convenient process of removing strings, purchase a special pegs rotator. It is sold in any music store at a low price. This will significantly simplify and speed up your actions.

How to remove strings from an acoustic guitar

The first and obvious step to replacing strings is to directly remove the old ones. This is done in a few very simple steps.

Loosen the old strings

Pull the string and start turning the peg. If its sound rises higher, it means it is being stretched, and you should not rotate the fittings further. If it goes down, then everything is correct - continue to rotate in this direction until the rings screwed onto the peg are loosened to such an extent that the string just dangles and can be pulled out of the hole in the fittings. Do the same for each of the strings.

Remove pegs

The next step is to remove the pegs that hold the strings in place underneath. A flat object can help you with this - for example, a strong ruler, or even an ordinary spoon. In addition, there is a special tool for this process. Do not try to pick them up with pliers - the peg is very likely to break into two halves. Just grab it from the bottom and use the lever to start pulling it out. This should only be done after the strings have been loosened as much as possible - so be careful. Once all the pegs are removed, put them in one place and proceed to the next step.

Removing old strings

Simply remove the old strings from the holes in the hardware as well as the peg holes. Roll them up and set them aside - you can save them as a spare set just in case, or you can throw them in the trash.

Wipe down the guitar

After this, put the guitar in order - wipe it with a dry cloth. Remove dirt from the fretboard. Also check its tension - is everything okay with it, remember if it was not working well before. If something like this happened, then it is at this stage that it happens by rotating the anchor. In general, just clean the instrument a little from dirt, and after that you can proceed directly to replacing the strings.

Installing strings on an acoustic guitar

Unpacking the new kit

Empty the new set from all packaging. Typically, the manufacturer packages the strings according to their serial numbers, or, as for example, D’Addario does, they paint the balls at the base of the string with their own colors, making designations on the packaging itself. The strings are curled into a ring - unfold them and straighten them. After this, place them in the holes of the pegs - the end with a small ring attached to the string should go there. After this, secure the pegs until they stop. Simply place the end without the ball on the headstock, to the pegs on which the winding should take place.

Winding strings. Let's start from the sixth

So, you can start replacing the strings. Thread each one into the hole of your peg. Start with the sixth one. So, then take the main part of the string and wrap it around the axis of the peg so that its tip is under the turn. After this, make a couple of movements with the fitting itself so that the tip is fixed between the turns. It is not necessary to do this - the string will hold in place without a “knot”, but this way you will minimize the likelihood that it will fly out during playing. Stretch the string, holding it a little with your hand, but not completely - it should just be fixed in the nut and peg.

After this, repeat the same manipulations with the remaining strings. In the case of the sixth, fifth and fourth strings, turn the peg clockwise, and with the other three, vice versa, counterclockwise. Overall, it's intuitive. Please note that if you did not pull the strings until the hammers stop on the pegs, then this can happen without you, very sharply, with a characteristic sound. Don't be alarmed - this is also normal, but it is better to first pull the kit all the way to the bottom fastening.

Trim off the excess

After that, how to tension stringsWhen you're done, use pliers to trim off the ends sticking out of the pegs. This is done specifically so that they do not interfere with playing and tuning the instrument later.

Guitar tuning after installation

After the strings are conditionally tensioned, proceed to . This will take a little longer as the strings will stretch during the process, but the tuner will help with this. Make adjustments only based on it - in this case, hearing will not help. If you don’t have it at hand, you can download the application forguitar settings for android or iOS.

Generally, then place the instrument and let the strings settle on it. You may need to tune the instrument a couple more times, plus they will quickly get out of tune at first. However, after a while everything will fall into place, and the new set will sound with overtones and ringing.

How to change strings on a classical guitar

This process, in general, is not very different from the same on an acoustic guitar, but there are some nuances.

Remove old strings

This works in the same way as on an acoustic guitar - just loosen them on the pegs and pull them out through the lower bridge. Please note that in this case there are no pegs - everything is held on by small knots formed at one end of the string. The strings can also be removed by simply cutting them off with pliers. After this, also wipe down the guitar and check its truss rod. If you found out , and did just that, then in general there should be no problems with it.

Installing new strings

In general, everything happens exactly the same as in the case of an acoustic guitar. The only caveat is to secure the strings from below - for this you need to form a knot and thread the rest of the string into it after it is in the hole at the bottom of the bridge. It is very simple to understand how to do this - just look at how it was secured initially.

Checklist for replacing and installing new strings

1. Loosen the old strings using pegs;
2. Pull out the pegs;
3. Remove the old strings;
4. Check the guitar - the condition of the neck and body, tighten the anchor;
5. Wipe down the guitar;
6. Place the end of the string with the hammer into the holes of the pegs, install them back, pull the string until the ball stops in the pegs;
7. Pull the strings;
8. Tune your guitar.

The most important advice– take your time and do everything carefully and slowly. Also, after installation and tuning, give the guitar a little rest - the wood should take the shape of the string tension, the neck should fall into place. Do not overtighten the strings, and best of all, tighten them very slightly before tuning. This is necessary so that the new set does not burst prematurely.

The need to carry out work to replace guitar strings arises if the sound produced is not ringing enough. A dull and short sound may be the first signal that new strings should be installed. Resolving this issue may involve some difficulties, so it is recommended to become a little more familiar with the technology of the work.

The process for installing strings on a classical and electric guitar may be slightly different. In both cases, it is necessary to adhere to a certain sequence of actions.

Features of changing strings on a classical guitar

There are two ways to install strings on a classical guitar. Regardless of which one is chosen, at the initial stage it is recommended to get rid of the old material. Simply cutting off the old strings can loosen the tension on the neck. This may damage the item. Among other things, this method is traumatic. To keep the neck under tension at all times, it is recommended to change the strings one at a time.

The video shows how to correctly change strings on an acoustic guitar:

Another important issue that will have to be resolved in this case is the correct choice of strings. It is not recommended to use steel variations of products. They can put excessive pressure on the neck of the neck, which eventually causes cracks and bends. All this has a negative impact on the sound of the instrument.

Method No. 1

In this case, the strings are pulled over the edge of the nut. Initially, the sixth string is threaded through the nut from the inside out. After this, a loop is made and it is passed through the second half of the string.

It is very important here to ensure that it is well pressed to the deck. Otherwise, the string will stick out, which will lead to its weakening during further use.

At the next stage, the strongest knot is tightened so that the string can be gradually tightened for tuning. The fifth and fourth strings are installed in a similar manner. The installation method for the first three products is slightly different.

So, the third string is threaded through the nut, and then passed through the loop three times. Such measures ensure that it is firmly fixed as firmly as possible and will not slide off during the game. After this, the string is tightened into the strongest possible knot. The procedure is then repeated with the second and first strings.

Method No. 2

Here the strings are installed through the edge of the neck of the neck. To resolve this issue, you need to rotate the peg until a hole appears. Then the string is threaded through it once.

The next step of installation is to push the string through the hole around the collar, after which the loose string can be tensioned as with a standard tuning.

Replacing strings on an electric guitar

In this case, you should also initially get rid of the old strings. It is best to do this in pairs - remove the sixth string together with the first, the fifth - with the second, and so on. This will avoid possible bending of the neck. The strings are installed in the same order.

At the initial stage of installation, the string is threaded into a holder, the design of which is determined by the features of a particular model. After this, it is threaded into the peg leg. In this case, the optimal length is set. To resolve this issue, the guitar should be placed on your lap and adjusted. Here you need to make sure that the string does not jump out of the peg.

Replacing strings on an electric guitar with a Floyd Rose tremolo:

Tension is carried out by rotating the peg. It is very important to choose the optimal number of turns. If there are too many of them, it will have a negative impact on the response of the case. Ultimately, the sound deteriorates. An insufficient number of turns may cause the string to slip during operation.

Safety precautions

It is necessary to emphasize that when replacing guitar strings, all safety conditions must be observed. Otherwise, such a procedure can lead to injury.

When replacing, the guitar should be positioned with the top of the guitar facing away from your face. The maximum tension force of the string can reach fifty kilograms, so if it breaks, you can damage your eye.

When removing old strings, you also need to take some precautions. If the material will simply be cut, it is best to loosen the tension first. Provided that if it falls too sharply, it can lead not only to damage to the bar, but also to injury.

Using a special string winder when replacing them can significantly speed up this procedure. Moreover, this will allow you to tension the strings as accurately as possible. If they are installed carelessly, this may lead to damage to these elements when playing.

During installation, it is necessary to place the strings on the stand and in the pegs as carefully and very carefully as possible. It should also be noted here that tight loops help reduce and minimize the amount of time required to set the strings in tune.

It is important to remember that new strings will last for some time after installation. This risks causing the guitar to be constantly out of tune. Subsequently, this will be less noticeable and the sound will stabilize.

In order for new strings to last for a long period of time, it is necessary to very carefully monitor the condition of the guitar nuts. In particular, you should pay attention to the slots at the top. If a guitar string gets stuck in this hole, it will be damaged, resulting in the need to replace this element.

First, let's look at what strings there are. Metal – used in reinforced guitars, they have a ringing sound and are more taut than synthetic guitars.
Synthetic (nylon) – suitable for classical guitars. They are good for beginners to play the guitar, as they are soft and do not hurt your fingers too much when playing.

We thread the string through the hole in the guitar stand and fasten it according to the picture.

Having secured the string in the stand, we stretch it towards the pegs. Without pulling, the string often does not fall into place and this can create extra work for you when tensioning it.

We thread it into the peg you need, leaving some slack (for strings with braid - 5 cm, without it - 10 cm).
In order not to get confused about which peg for which string, below is a picture with string numbering. We bend the string in the direction of rotation of the peg.

Next, we tighten the string with a peg, while holding it in tension with our free hand to wind the turns more tightly.
When it has tightened up a little, insert it into the slot in the top sill.
Use pliers to bite off the remaining piece of string.
It is not recommended to fine-tune nylon strings right away, as they stretch. Tune your guitar and let it sit for a couple of days.
There is a quick tuning method for nylon strings. It consists of tightening the strings one and a half to two steps higher than the standard tuning, repeating this procedure after a couple of hours. But the strings “live” less with this method.
That's all, have fun playing!

Video on how to change strings on a classical guitar!

Changing strings is one of the main operations when playing the guitar. and you should be able to complete it yourself. However, on a guitar with a free-floating double-sided Floyd Rose tremolo, this is quite a difficult task and I wouldn't be surprised if it gives you some trouble, especially if you are a beginner guitarist and not very strong in the technical part of this matter.

So how do you change the strings on a Floyd Rose electric guitar? The following instructions will teach you how to properly and efficiently replace strings, and how to tune a guitar with such a bridge. Not all Floyd Rose bridges are identical. Some, for example, do not require trimming the string ends before installing them. Even if your Floyd Rose system is slightly different from the one in the photos, this method of changing strings will still be the same or very similar.

Let's assume that the starting point is an adjusted guitar with installed strings, which you once again want to replace with new ones. If you always use the same strings (ie, same model, same brand), then after installing new strings, the guitar should play well, without the need for additional adjustments.

I hope that you know how to use a screwdriver, a hex wrench and wire cutters, and that you don’t need to explain which way to unscrew or tighten the screws). Otherwise, ask someone who knows all the listed instruments to help you (it is not at all necessary that he knows how to play the guitar).

I want to warn you in advance that you perform all manipulations with the guitar at your own peril and risk, although I can hardly imagine that you will manage to break something; in extreme cases, you will have to give the guitar to a more experienced friend for tuning, so don’t worry and don't be scared).

Attention! Working with a guitar (as well as playing it) must be done with extreme caution. A broken string or a protruding uncut end of a string can seriously injure you or a person nearby. Pay special attention to the safety of small children. Instilling music from a young age is of course good, but you need to approach everything head on!

A suitable place for operations such as changing strings or tuning a guitar is a small coffee table with a piece (50cm x 50cm) of thick (about 5cm) sponge placed on the tabletop to protect the guitar from damage. You also need good lighting and several tools: a Phillips screwdriver, wire cutters, hex keys, an electronic tuner, a brush, a rag. If a special sponge is not found, then it can be replaced with an ordinary soft blanket.

Now let's get started changing the strings to the Floyd Rose!

Unscrew the back cover of the tremolo springs. As a rule, it is secured with 6 screws using a Phillips screwdriver.

Loosen the string locks with the hex socket. A key of the appropriate size must be included with the guitar. If you don't have the original key, you need to get one. Choose a wrench of the exact size you need, since using a smaller wrench will destroy the screws, and very soon you will need to replace them, and this, as you know, costs money.

The fact is that There are metric hexagons and there are inch hexagons., their sizes are slightly different and it is sometimes quite difficult to determine by eye which key is in front of you. The key must be in good condition and have sharp edges; a hexagon with knocked down edges destroys the bolt splines and they quickly become unusable. Of course it is advisable to have a spare key and spare screws, this is not such a big investment.

Unscrew the locking bolt completely and remove the locking pads. It is easier and faster to unscrew a loose bolt by inserting the long part of the key into the head of the screw.

Place all bolts, screws and other small parts in a box, so you won’t have to look for them later.

Unscrew the screws holding the tremolo springs 5-10 turns so that the tremolo rises up, but do not unscrew them completely. The ideal tool for this purpose is a long screwdriver, but in principle a regular short screwdriver can also be used to do this.

Set all micro-adjustments in the middle position so that you can then adjust them in one direction or the other. Do it now, because later you will forget!

Loosen the peg of the first string () so that it is completely free, but does not come out of the pin.

Loosen the micro-adjustment lock with a hexagon of the required size, 1-2 turns should be enough. Do everything carefully so as not to damage the varnish on the guitar..

Remove the first string by pulling it up with your fingers. If it doesn’t want to come out, then loosen the locking screw one more turn.

Tighten (lightly) back the locking screw. If you don't do this, the blocking pads may fall out and you will have to look for them all over the floor for a long time ;-).

Remove the string from by unscrewing it and pulling it up. When screwing the string, be careful that the string does not scratch the varnish on the headstock. The old string needs to be rolled up and thrown into the trash. Don’t leave it “just in case,” so to speak, in case it comes in handy. I assure you - it will not be useful! Well, okay, I left it myself once ;-).

Strip all the other strings in the same manner, moving from the thinnest first string(s) to the thickest sixth string(s).

If during this operation the bridge (aka “bridge”) has sunk as in the photo above and you have lost access to the locking screws, then unscrew it a few more turns screws that secure tremolo spring (we unscrewed them with a long screwdriver), the bridge will rise back up and you can continue working.

Press the tremolo lever to lift the rear end up, and place paper business cards or playing cards under the locking screws at the back. Add enough so that the bridge is more or less parallel (horizontally) to the body of the guitar.

Do not place a pencil, battery or something similar under the bridge, as some “experts” recommend, in this way you can damage the varnish of your (or even worse, someone else’s) guitar. Playing cards are perfect for this purpose. If you are not an avid gambler and you don’t have any cards, then... buy a deck of 54 playing cards and cut it in half - and then you will get a pad of the required size. It’s better not to use old, tattered cards; buy new ones.

I hope everything went smoothly and the strings were removed from the guitar.

Every time when you change the strings, it is necessary thoroughly clean the guitar neck, for example, with a clean, dry flannel cloth...

As well as hard-to-reach places on the frets, for this we use a toothbrush

We take this opportunity to clean the pickups and all hard-to-reach places

You can also use a brush with a wooden handle

Wow! One block for the sixth string clamp is missing! You probably forgot to tighten the locking screw back after removing the string. But I did say so!

Now we have to look for him. If it’s not on the table, it means it’s lying somewhere on the floor. It looks like the picture below. If you have large gaps in your parquet, then be sure it is there. I consider a magnet to be the best tool for finding a lost shoe on a carpet or for removing it from a crack in a parquet floor; the bigger the better. If the block is lost forever, then you can buy it at a good music store or a special service.

You must place the blocking block in the saddle exactly as I show in the picture, that is, the hole should be shifted down and look in the direction opposite to the bar. The tip of the locking screw, after tightening, should fit into the hole in the block and protect it from falling out when the lock is slightly loosened. After installing the block and tightening the locking screw, you need to check whether everything was installed correctly.

Unpack the new strings.

Important! The strings on an electric guitar are placed in a strictly defined sequence, which depends on the location of the pegs on the headstock. The string whose peg is closest to the bridge is placed first, and so on as the pegs move away.

For example, if the pegs are on top of the headstock, then we start installing the strings starting with the 6th (thickest) string. If the pegs are located at the bottom, then you need to start with the 1st (thinnest) string. If the pegs are located on both sides of the headstock, then first set the strings from 6th to 4th, then from 1st to 3rd.

Standard electric guitar strings have a small grommet on one side, making them easy and quick to install on guitars with a traditional bridge.

For a guitar with a Floyd Rose bridge, these bushings are not needed, so cut them off with side cutters (about 1cm). Do not cut the bushings from all the strings at once, cut only from the one you will install, this will help you avoid getting tangled.

Loosen the bridge saddle lock screw for the sixth string (MI) by 2-3 turns.

Insert the end of the string (the one from which you just cut the sleeve) into the “saddle” as I show in the picture. If the string does not want to go in, then unscrew the locking screw one more turn. The string should enter the saddle 5-6mm - you must be sure that it goes all the way.

If you do not insert the string deep enough (that is, not all the way), then the string may subsequently jump out during tuning or while playing, and even injure your hands or face, so do this with due care!

Holding the end of the string with one hand, tighten the locking screw with the other hand until it stops, squeezing the string as if in a vice. You need to tighten it tightly enough so that after the final tuning the string does not jump out, but do not overdo it, you need to know when to stop everything. The strength of a 10-year-old child is quite enough here.

Insert the other end of the string into the hole of the peg and...

Pull the string all the way through. Measure about 4cm - this is approximately to the next peg, if you have a neck with pegs on opposite sides. And so, measure and fix this distance with your fingers

Now pull the string back this 4 cm, still holding it with your fingers. Do not unclench your fingers and keep them in the same place all the time!

Using the fingers of your other hand, grasp the string on the other side of the pin.

You can release the string with your first hand, but you don’t need to release the string with your second hand, continue to hold it.

With your free hand, begin to twist the peg. Hold the string in the peg hole all the time (this can be done with one finger, as in the picture). As the peg turns, the end of the string will also begin to bend. In the photo, the peg pin has already turned a quarter of a turn and the string is bent at a right angle.

And now the tuning pin has been turned another quarter turn. Pick up the string with three fingers, and continue to hold the peg at the base of the pin with your index finger - this is done so that when winding the string is always taut. This will make it easier and more convenient to wind it.

Continue winding the string around the tuning pin. When the pin is turned about 3/4 of a turn, you will have to decide whether the free end of the string will go under the tensioned string or above it. Traditionally, during the first turn, the free end of the string is tucked under the tensioned string, I recommend not changing the general traditions and threading the string in the same way.

Press the string down with your finger so that the next turn goes under the string protruding from the pin.

Exactly as in the picture.

To make the string fit better, keep it slightly taut.

When the string is sufficiently tensioned, tuck it under the clamping bar and place it in the hole of the upper blocker

Pull the string a little more so that you don’t have to hold it with your hand. You don’t need to tighten it too much, just pull it lightly so that it doesn’t just dangle.

Two or three turns of the string are enough for it to hold securely and not slip out of the hole of the pin.

Cut off the free end of the string with pliers, leave a tail of 5 millimeters, this is enough. Be careful with the coating, take care of the varnish.

Make sure that the bridge is positioned correctly and that the bridge fits into the recesses on the stems. If not, correct the bridge by hand. Take the cards/cards out from under the bridge for a minute and move it around to make sure everything works as it should. Reinsert business cards/cards under the bridge.

All other strings must be placed in the same way. From the side of the bridge you do everything according to a similar scheme. There will be slight differences on the headstock side. To consolidate the material, we will discuss the most difficult steps again, although most of them will be no different from what we have already done.

Fix the fifth string (note A) in the “saddle” of the bridge by analogy with how you installed the sixth string, and pass the free end under the string holder bar...

And insert it into the hole of the peg. When installing the remaining strings, remember to thread them under the string holder bar before placing it on the peg. However, if you forgot to do this, then it is not necessary to remove the already installed strings, just unscrew the bar, install all the strings and screw the bar back.

If it suddenly turns out that the gap under the bar is too small and the strings have difficulty getting under the bar, just unscrew it a few turns, and after installing all the strings, screw it back.

In general, installing the fifth string is completely similar to installing the sixth string, I’m posting a photo without explanation:

don't forget to cut the end of the string!

Installing the fourth string is also no different from installing the fifth string; we follow the already proven scheme. After installing the first three strings and trimming the ends, it will all look something like this:

As the remaining strings are tightened, at some point (no matter when) their tension will be so strong that the bridge will rise up and the placed cards will fall out from under the locking screws. Nothing, don't worry, that's how it should be!
The bridge should be in a position similar to the one in the picture (that is, slightly raised up). If you see that the bridge is riding up too much, then this needs to be corrected. Loosen the already tense strings a little and the bridge will drop to the desired height. As a last resort, unscrew the screws securing the bridge springs a few turns.

We install the first string according to the scheme already familiar to us; there are no changes here. The only thing you need to remember is the order in which the strings are installed. In our case (when the pegs are located on different sides of the headstock), the order will be as follows: we start with the first, then the second, followed by the third string.

We wind the second, and then the third string

Strings without winding (1st, 2nd and 3rd) can be placed backwards to front, that is, without cutting off the fixing sleeve. First, insert the peg into the hole, pull it under the clamping bar and finally insert it into the mount with the “saddle”. But personally, it seems to me that this method does not simplify at all, but rather complicates the process of installing strings. But the choice is yours.

One more point regarding safety precautions! Very sharp (like needles), the ends of the strings sticking out after trimming can injure your hands, and uncut ends can injure your eyes, there have already been precedents. Be careful and extremely careful.

You don’t have to cut the strings at all (some people even like it ;-), but then they get in the way in the case and again can be dangerous for our eyes. Personally, I'd rather prick my finger every now and then than risk my eye.

Make sure that all the strings have passed under the clamping bar and are correctly placed in the top lock, namely in the grooves intended for the strings

also check the position of the strings on the bridge itself

Press down on the lever to make sure the bridge is well suspended on the stems

Turn the guitar over and...

Insert the halves of playing cards we already love into the gap between the sustain block and the deck. It will be easier for you to do this if you use the tremolo lever, pulling it up.

You need to place enough cards so that the bridge is parallel to the body of the guitar

Make sure that the clamping bar presses the strings sufficiently into the guide holes of the top lock. The strings should touch the edges of the top lock on both sides. In the photo, the clamping bar is located too high and the strings do not fully adhere to the top lock seat.

If necessary, tighten the clamping bar with a screwdriver. But do not tighten it all the way, twist it exactly as much as necessary, so that the string fits into the holes of the top lock.

Now the strings fit properly

We carry out the primary one without using micro-adjustment. The bridge is currently blocked by a deck of cards, so it will be completely motionless, and the setup should be quite good.

Attention! At this point, you need to check that the guitar is building along the harmonics. It may be necessary to adjust the scale and do it better now. How to do this is the topic of a separate article. If the guitar is tuned normally by harmonics, then you move on to the next step.

Install the blocking pads into the top-lock seats. Tighten the screws a few turns so that the pads hold, but do not fix, the strings. The strings should still slide freely.

This is how the clamping pads should be installed:

But in no case can this be done! In the photo below, the pads are installed in the transverse direction (they are rotated 90 degrees). Pay close attention to this!

Using only the pegs on the headstock and tighten the locking screw with a hex wrench. You need to tighten it firmly, but carefully.

Check the quality of the tuning of the 5th and 6th strings; for this it is advisable to use a tuner, but if there is no tuner, then rely on your hearing. If you did everything correctly in the previous stages, then the strings should build and hold the tune well.Small deviations from the ideal sound are possible, but they can be corrected using micro-adjustments.

We set up the remaining strings in the same way.

Finish your guitar tuning with microtuning , do this while holding the guitar in playing position. If you did the previous steps correctly, then correction should be ( as the title says) minimum.

Place the guitar on your lap, making sure not to touch the bridge or micro-tuning, and tighten the screws holding the tremolo springs just enough...

so that we can freely, without the use of force, pull out our deck of playing cards.

Place the guitar on your lap and check how the 6th string is tuned. If the string sounds lower, then slightly tighten the screws securing the tremolo springs; if the string sounds higher, then turn them out slightly. Try to tighten or unscrew both screws evenly. Tune the 6th string this way and then check the tuning of the remaining strings.

All strings must sound perfect. If they all sound a little too low or too high, then correct it in the same way as with the 6th string, that is, tightening/loosening the spring mounting screws. Do not use micro adjustments, try to achieve the best results only by adjusting the tension of the tremolo springs.

And only now you can make minimal adjustments using micro-adjustments, but if until now you have done everything correctly, then this should not be necessary.

After all the manipulations done, you should have a guitar in your hands with new strings and a tuned bridge (Floyd Rose bridge) installed as it should, that is, according to all the rules.

Congratulations!

The final touch remains. You need to screw the back cover of the tremolo springs back into place. It's up to you to screw it on or not.

Most professional guitarists tend to leave this cover off so they always have quick access to spring adjustments. If you want to join their number, then put the cover and screws in a safe place, because it may come in handy someday (for example, when selling a guitar).

Beginning guitarists will sooner or later encounter real life situations in which they have to change strings on an acoustic guitar. Most often, of course, this happens at home and with a lamp, but sometimes you have to do it in the field. So, if you just yesterday decided to become a famous musician, then it is better to learn in advance about how to change strings correctly and how often.

What are there

Strings are divided into two types: metal and synthetic. The first ones are made of steel and have a winding, which, in turn, is made of various alloys and is wound on the root in different ways. And the latter are in most cases nylon.

To put it roughly, they are purposefully made for specific strings. And this is connected with tension. For example, in metal it is much stronger than in nylon. Consequently, steel-string guitars have a reinforced neck and a rigid body. Of course, you can stretch nylon onto such an instrument, but it is unlikely to surprise you with its sound, since it is much softer than metal. But the opposite situation, when steel strings are placed on a classical guitar intended for synthetics, is better not to try in practice, unless, of course, the goal is to damage the instrument. Strong tension can simply move the bar that is not intended for this purpose and tear out the lower nut.

Distinguishing one guitar from another is easy. You need to carefully examine the nut and neck. The nylon is attached to a special stringer, and the steel strings are in the body of the guitar with additional reinforcement inside the instrument.

Remember that all the strings are changed at once, even if only one fails.

Changing metal strings

So, if, after the previous point, you have determined that you are holding an instrument in your hands for which metal consumables are suitable and you note their complete or partial absence, then you should go through the following stages of installing the strings.

Changing nylon strings

And if you have determined that you have a classical guitar with a complete or partial absence of strings, then in order to be able to play it again, you should take the following steps.

1. As in the previous case, it all starts with the purchase of strings. Here you can read about how to choose the right synthetics.
2. As soon as you have new consumables, you can start. First you need to remove the strings from your acoustic guitar. Gently unscrew the pegs until you reach the tip. There is, of course, a more radical way - simply cutting the strings. But such an approach can not only damage the instrument, but also slightly correct the musician. Or rather, cut your hands and possibly other parts of the body. So it is better to choose a slower but safer method.
3. After unwinding, we move to the lower nut and untie the knots, freeing the strings.
4. We clean the tool from dust. You need to wipe everything down, both the neck and the body.
5. Now we thread one end of the string into the nut and secure it with a knot. You're lucky if your set of consumables is equipped with special balls at the ends. Then everything is simple - the seal will not allow the string to leave the instrument. But if not, you will have to practice a little in tying the right knots.
6. When you have achieved success in the previous point, move to the other end of the string. It must be inserted into the hole in the peg. And then stretch and carry out similar processes with other strings. Don't forget to trim off the protruding ends at the very end.
7. In the case of nylon, you can not follow the rule of not over-tightening, but even contradict it. Synthetic is several times softer than metal, and it can be painlessly stretched a little more than required.

String shrinkage

Once installed, new strings tend to become detuned, meaning the tension is loosened and they need to be tightened every day until the process stops. For example, nylon strings can shrink for up to a week, so it’s not a big deal to retighten them.

Guitar tuning

After the strings have been installed on the instrument, the latter should be properly tuned. If you are confident in your 100% hearing, then you can try to do this without using additional devices. But if you don't trust yourself or want to be sure that C sounds like C, then you just need to use a tuner. Technologies have reached the point where such gadgets have appeared in online versions. Just find an application or a special website and configure your tool through it. Unless, of course, you have a material tuner.

How often should you change strings?

You need to change it depending on how often you play the instrument. Those musicians who do this often and do not take care of consumables at all, change them approximately once every one to two weeks. And others, from the category that it’s good if you unpack your guitars every weekend, can go through several months with one set. But it’s better not to experiment with the latter. Metal tends to rust and nylon tends to fray and turn into ropes. And in any case, the old strings on the instrument can break and damage the musician.

So keep an eye on the service life of your consumables and replace them in a timely manner. And we hope that we have explained everything in sufficient detail so that every beginning musician can cope with this matter in half an hour.