Subcultures. Fashion is a very British phenomenon.

Young people have a particular relationship with the world. There are many groupings (subcultures) that have interests different from those of the mainstream culture. A particular cultural grouping is a way for young people to express their individuality.

By the mid-60s teenagers had begun to form distinct cultural groupings. Most young people in Britain follow some kind of youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emos, metalists, modes, hip-hop, football hooligans, gamers, anarchists, green, religious subcultures, etc. A subculture is a way of life. It isn't a fan club, it's a real life. It seems to them that the parents are always saying: No! That everything about them: their hair, their music, clothes, the way they talk, their dreams are considered bad by grown-ups. The young people are unsure of where they are going. Often young people do something not because they want to do it. They do things because everyone around does or because they think it"s impolite to refuse.

Modern youth have a special attitude towards the world. There are many groups (subcultures) whose interests differ from mass culture. Certain cultural groups are a way for young people to express their individuality. In the mid-60s, teenagers began to form different cultural groups. Most young people in the UK belong to some kind of youth culture: rockers, hackers, ravers, skinheads, hippies, goths, punks, bakers, emo, metalheads, mods, hip-hop, football fans, gamers, anarchists, greens, religious subcultures , etc. Subcultures are a way of life. This is not a fan club, this is real life. It seems to them that their parents always say: no! Everything that concerns them: their hair, their music, their clothes, their manner of speaking, their dreams - adults consider stupid. Young people don't know where they are going. Often young people do things not because they want to. They do it because everyone around them is doing it or because they think it's not polite to refuse.

Punk, also known as punk rock, is an aggressive form of rock music that coalesced into an international (though predominantly Anglo-American) movement in 1975-80. They have become more politicized militant groups, and they spread denial as an ideology and aesthetic approach, becoming a model of teenage rebellion and alienation.

Punks wanted to stand out from society as much as possible; therefore, a rough style predominated in their wardrobe. Punks strive for freedom and anarchy. Most punks believe that government is chaos and can never be perfect. In the early 1980s, punk rock's heyday ended. New subcultures began to form.

Punks in Russia.

The USSR media first learned about punks from the Western press, which was banned in the Soviet Union.

As a result, young people began to listen to Western music, watch Western films and imitate Western clothing styles. In the 1970s, Russian youth listened to classic rock, such as the Beatles, or art rock. Most of them have never heard the word "punk". The first people who called themselves “punks” appeared in Leningrad at the end of 1979 and the beginning of 1980; they had little idea what punk meant.

Skinheads.

Skinheads appeared in Britain in the mid-1960s. One of the first names of the subculture was “Mods”; they cut their hair very short, explaining this by the fact that their hair got in the way during fights. Working class kids called themselves "Skinheads" to separate themselves from other Mods. Huge groups of hot-tempered youth gathered at football stadiums every Saturday to cheer on local teams. There were frequent clashes and shootings between fans of the teams, and these events gave rise to the period of legendary British "football violence". When did it come night, « skinheads» put on the most the best from what they had it and went to the disco. Here they danced to the sounds of the new music that Jamaican immigrants brought to England.

Skinheads in Russia.

Skinheads appeared in Russia in the early 90s. In 1992, there were about a dozen skinheads in Moscow. They behaved quietly, mostly engaged in self-admiration and showed off themselves in the city center. The first skins were a pure product of teenage apes: they diligently imitated Western models.

The term "Emo" is used as one of the branches of counterculture; This is an abbreviation of the word “emotional”. Emo defines not only the attitude, but also the way that comes from emocore (emo music). Emocore is a combination of hardcore and punk that was very popular in Washington DC in the late 80s. Emo culture continued to develop between 1990 and 2000, and has reached its current popularity.

Teenagers who listen to emocore are emokids. People around them consider them losers. They do not know how to control their emotions, they are quiet, shy, withdrawn and very sensitive. Typically, emos like to express their feelings through poetry, writing about their problems with depression, confusion, and anger because the world doesn't understand them. Themes, type: life- This pain, usual. Although life is already very difficult for them, they are prone to hurting themselves. The emo subculture causes irreparable harm.

Emo culture in Russia.

Russian teenagers quickly adopted Western emo culture. Obviously, there are many more people opposed to this culture than fans. Some say that this is not natural for Russia. In their opinion, a copy taken from the West contradicts the true culture of the former Soviet Union. Others argue that representatives of this trend are distinguished by their young age, and such experiences are precisely typical of young, failed and emotional teenagers, that is, such a culture should not be taken seriously. Still others argue that the desire of emo kids to be “themselves” and at the same time strictly following instructions like “what a real emo should look like” is more than paradoxical. Admirers claim that in Russia there are several musical groups that founded the emo movement. However, even Russian singers have come up with the idea of ​​releasing albums in the emo style. If representatives of show business rely on a relatively new movement, it means that it is becoming more and more popular in our country. On the Internet you can find a huge number of resources where they offer to order patches, T-shirts, badges, bracelets, and even wall calendars in the emo style. How this trend will take root in our country, or leave its mark on the culture of Russia, time will tell.

Mods- London subculture of the 50s - 60s of the twentieth century, with a special style.

Mod style attributes

- wardrobe in Italian-French style

Fashions adapted the Italian and French styles that were just coming into fashion. They wore tailored Italian suits of narrow trousers with creases and well-tailored fitted ones, nylon shirts with small collars, skinny ties, mohair items, wool or cashmere sweaters (with a V-neck or crew neck), windbreakers or faux leather jackets. leather with a zipper, narrow-toed leather boots (the so-called “Winkle Pickers”), with tassels, or shoes called Desert Boots from Clarks.

- hairstyle in the spirit of French actors

The fashion wardrobe was complemented by a special hairstyle, copying the haircuts of French actors, for example, Jean-Paul Belmondo.

- makeup

Some fashionists used eyeliners, eye shadow, and lipstick.

- scooter as an accessory

Fashion chose scooters as their main means of transportation. This was also due to the style features of the representatives of the subculture: all the mechanisms in the scooter were covered with special panels, which made it possible to keep expensive suits clean. In unfavorable weather conditions, the fashion was worn by the military, which protected their jackets and trousers from the rain.

The preferred scooter brands were Vespa or Lambretta. After the law was passed according to which every motorcycle was required to have at least one mirror, mods began to decorate their scooters with four, ten and even thirty mirrors.

Etymology of the term "fashion"

The term "mod" comes from the English word "modernist", which in the 50s of the twentieth century denoted modern jazz musicians and their fans. The name was a contrast to the concept of “trad” (from the English traditional), which denoted traditional jazz performers and their fans.

History of the style of the mod subculture

In Colin Macinnes's 1959 novel Absolute Beginners, the "modernist" appears as a young fan of modern jazz who dresses in the latest Italian fashion. The novel is one of the first works to use the term to describe a young British man with a conscious interest in fashion and modern jazz.

• Reasons for the emergence of the subculture

Some researchers define the mod subculture as a "fashion-obsessed, hedonistic cult of all things cool" worshiped by coming of age youths living in London or the new southern cities.

As post-war Britain's prosperity returned to normal, society changed too. The younger generation of the 60s was no longer required to work after school to feed their family. Now they worked to ensure a comfortable existence in the city. Young people, given the opportunity to independently manage their money, often invested it in their appearance.

At that time, the first ones aimed at the younger generation were opening on such famous streets as Carnaby Street and Kings Road. Independents emerged, such as Mary Quant, who became famous for her minis, or John Stephen, who developed a line called "His Clothes" and whose regular client was the famous Small Faces.

In the mid-1960s, newspaper reporters focused on the cost of mod costumes, looking for particularly extreme cases. For example, they published the words of one young fashionista, who said that he would rather not eat, but buy himself clothes. However, such a commitment to fashion was not accidental: it allowed young people to escape from their drab working days and, at least for a while, find themselves in another world.

Fashions were very careful in their choice of clothing and created their own artifacts and symbols within their community. For example, the British flag (“Union Jack”) and the emblem of the Royal Air Force (“Target”) have become an integral attribute of every self-respecting mod.

• Origins of the mod style

The appearance of the mods is based on the styles of at least two youth subcultures: firstly, the beatniks with their bohemian, which includes blacks, and secondly, from whom the mods inherited narcissism and scrupulous adherence to fashion.

• Girlfriend fashion style

Mod girlfriends followed a certain androgynous style and were often indistinguishable from their boyfriends. Short haircuts, men's trousers and (sometimes borrowed from guys), flat shoes and a minimum of makeup. Most often, girls left their faces pale, applied brown eye shadow to their eyelids, white lipstick to their lips, and stuck on false eyelashes.

Fashion girls became a real challenge for their parents, since starting in the 60s, the length of their skirts became increasingly shorter. Over time, when the mod subculture became a commercial trend, the image of the mod girlfriend began to be exploited by models such as (Jean Shrimpton) and (Twiggy).

• Reasons for the decline of movement

Mod culture has been replaced by the .

In the late 70s, the UK experienced a revival of mods, the first wave of which gradually died out in the late 60s, and in the early 80s mod culture spread to other countries. It is most widespread in Southern California.

• Changing the style

As a result of the mixing of cultures, many fashions adopted the style of the so-called rud-boys, wearing short-brimmed hats and cropped jeans from the brand. They listened to Jamaican ska and visited West Indian nightclubs Ram Jam, A-Train and Sloopy's.

The main attributes of the mod style were retained by the early ones. They also wore polos and shirts, Sta-Prest trousers and Levi's, but now paired them with suspenders and.

Some researchers believe that there were no spiritual principles behind the mod culture, just ordinary fetishism with its objects of worship, which included scooters, Italian suits and American soul records.

When the booming post-war economy of England gave young people jobs, it created a class - a class of young people who earned decent money through physical labor (these were factories, repair shops - in general, not clerical work). But everything is connected in the economy, and new enterprises have created many white-collar jobs - clerks, managers, etc. The young people who came to these places were better educated and more “modern” - they listened to “progressive” music, wore fashionable clothes, rode scooters that protected them from dirt and did not leave oil stains on their clothes, etc. and so on. These were mainly city residents, starting with teenagers. Rockers - everything remained the same - these guys were “simpler”. Leather is protection from weather, falls and oil (when the first Japanese motorcycles were tested by English motorcycle journalists, one of them wrote with delight that after the ride there was not a single oil stain on his trousers!). Music - rock and roll, rockabilly. Conversations are rude, education is low. In general, these were the heirs of the "Teddy Boys", while the Mods can be called the heirs of the "dandies". And most rockers lived in the suburbs, small towns or villages.

All the prerequisites for skirmishes were at hand. And the main reason was not class differences, but partly the cultural and aesthetic contradictions generated by them. This was not a class confrontation - it was a confrontation generated by the conflict between a new wave of youth with new values ​​and those who had “revolted” a few years earlier. But neither of them were “representatives of evil.” There were simply too many things that separated them, and this could not but cause contradictions. Rockers considered the Mods to be snobs and brats. Fashion considered Rockers outdated and grimy. In general, it was difficult to coexist peacefully. Thus was born (mainly thanks to the press and cinema, but more on that later) the legend of Mods versus Rockers. The birth of Mods (from Modernists). It is difficult to say when this confrontation began. Rockers, as a subculture, existed even before the early 60s. Mods were “noticed” in the press in 1962. This year, England's economy experienced its second post-war boom. Naturally, this boom entailed a cultural boom. New music, new ideas, a new "youth" vehicle - a Vespa or a Lambretta - all this was the ideal stage for a new movement. And the Mods were at the very crest of this wave.

So, what did these guys look like and how did they live? Main interests: Music: modern jazz, The Who, Small Faces, The Jam, The Yardbirds. Clothing: fashionable youth clothing (pseudo-military style, ponchos, short raincoats, tennis shirts, combat boots, moccasins - everything is bright and expensive). Shapeless army parka jackets were extremely popular. They perfectly protected from bad weather and did not constrain the choice of what to wear under them. Transport: Italian scooters, Vespa or Lambretta, sometimes hung with dozens of chrome mirrors, arches, antennas. High seat backs, white striped tires. The fashion scooter was usually polished to a mirror shine, but was not distinguished by functional tuning.

Groups: Aces - the elite, the most advanced, educated and undeniably recognized as the leaders of the Mods movement. Tickets are mostly teenagers, very aggressive, fueled by amphetamines, not very imaginative and practically following in the footsteps of the Aces - according to the mods themselves - a little closer to the working class. Meeting places: among the Aces these are serious music clubs, where interesting and new music was played, first of all. The Tickets run dance halls and nightclubs, mainly in East London. Behavior: The Mods were younger and, as a result, more aggressive than the Rockers. The mods were mostly younger (under 20 years old), while the rockers in the 60s were mostly 21-25 years old. Switchblades were quite popular among mods. In addition, they sewed fishhooks onto the lapels of their coats - in a fight, grabbing the collar lapels was dangerous. Most of the brawls were initiated by Mods, paradoxically as it may seem. The rockers were more interested in how to "make the tone" (100 miles per hour, and only in the dark and in bad weather), modifying the motorcycle and racing from traffic light to traffic light between cafes. Almost all serious clashes took place “on the road”. On Saturdays and the so-called "bank holidays" the Mods and Rockers went (not too different from most of England) to the coast - to Margate, Brighton or Clacton. In situations where such mass excursions collided with each other, a fight broke out. The strange thing is that there were no particularly major clashes. Ordinary residents of coastal cities were not involved in this and did not suffer in these clashes. It was mainly the awnings and tables on the beaches that suffered.

England in the 60s gave birth to a lot of youth movements. Nevertheless, English society remained for the most part a society inclined towards traditionalism and certain “moral principles”. It was this society that reacted extremely negatively to Mods and Rockers, without distinguishing or separating them. In these movements, English citizens saw the danger of the destruction of customary morality. The press played one of the decisive roles in this. By describing rockers (already habitually positioned as “bad guys”) and mods, English newspapers created not just an image of an unusual social phenomenon, but an image of a threat to English morality and the foundations of life. This, in turn, escalated the negative attitude on the part of ordinary people, the police and the government. May 17, 1964 was one of the "bank holidays". As always, many Englishmen decided to spend this day on the coast - the weather promised to be good. By a strange coincidence (this was in no way planned) a huge number of Mods and Rockers decided to spend the day in Brighton at the same time. Naturally, a collision was inevitable. According to eyewitness accounts and now elderly former mods and rockers, it was the Mods who started it all. A huge number of them gathered in the city. At some point (no one can say what the original reason was), the fashions, armed with stones from the beach, rushed to “hunt” the rockers. Two fairly large groups of mods and rockers (although to be fair there were a LOT more mods) clashed in a massive brawl on a beach in Brighton. Gradually, riots and fights moved to the streets of Brighton. The hastily assembled approximately 100 police officers were unable to stop the clashes. In the end, the warring parties were dispersed, more than 50 people were arrested. The trial of those arrested was a public process, carefully hyped by the press. However, no one was killed, no firearms were used, and the scandal did not last long on the front pages of the newspapers. But the label was stuck forever. And without dividing into rockers and mods.

The judge who presided over the trial called the participants in these riots "Sawdust Caesars" - it is difficult to say what this means for the British, but the meaning is clear. The term took root and became firmly entrenched in the brains of the average Englishman. This incident was and remains the most famous episode in the history of Mods and Rockers, not because of the seriousness of the actual events, but because of the press coverage and, above all, because of the film made in 1979 "Quadrophenia" (reminiscent of the story with riots in Hollister, isn't it?). This film is still a cult film for the British, and above all for the residents of Brighton. Tours are available for tourists about the history of the "battle" in Brighton and the filming locations. Surprisingly, the much more serious incident that took place on Easter Sunday in Clacton in 1964 has received less attention. This incident is considered the first officially recorded mass clash between Mods and Rockers. Two large groups that collided "on the road" staged a massive brawl, using beach umbrellas as weapons. Many windows in nearby houses were damaged, and 97 people were arrested. Newspapers carried the headlines “Scooter gang's day of terror” (Daily Telegraph) and “Savages invade coast - 97 arrests” (Daily Mirror). But a film was not made about this story - and it sank into oblivion.

The rockers were the first to leave. It was a natural process - and the Fashions also did not last long. By 1966, their movement simply became uninteresting to the new youth - the hippies came. Fashions are a thing of the past, leaving behind a tour of the sites of the “great Battle of Brighton”, the film “Quadrophenia” and the new term “moral panic”. The term itself only appeared in 1987 - after the publication of research by sociologist Cohen, who built his theory by observing clashes between rockers and mods, and the film in 1979 - but the heroes of both were still recognizable. The fate of those Mods who, in their own classification, stood at the bottom rung of the philosophy and aesthetics of the movement was strange. They gradually transformed - Doctor Martins boots appeared, previously short-cropped hair began to be simply shaved, elements of clothing for young people from the working classes were added to Mod army jackets. They retained some of the basic attributes of the mods - music, Levi's jeans, Fred Perry sportswear - but that's probably all. This is how skinheads arose.

But to this day, older people - former Mods and Rockers - organize "re-unions" in the places where they spent their stormy youth. The legendary "Ace Cafe" in London was and remains the stronghold of former Rockers - this cafe has turned into a historical center. There you can not only drink coffee or beer in an authentic environment, but also buy classic rocker motorcycle clothing and accessories, exchange technical information or find the missing part for a lovingly restored Triumph or Norton. Regular official “re-unions” of rockers are also held there and their motorcycle rides begin there. For Mods, such places are concentrated by geographic location. In Brighton you can visit Jump the Gun for authentic Mod clothing and accessories. Regular "re-unions" take place mainly in the same cafes where they once met, but all this has acquired the character of clubs for classic scooter lovers, and not mod meetings.
according to the website "Neoformal"

Hello.

Bikers on hefty Harleys are not the only subculture of the two-wheeled family. There are several more branches of evolution, some of which turned out to be dead ends. This article will focus on the Mods, a youth subculture of the 50s that originated in Great Britain and used scooters as a means of transportation and an object of worship.

Yes, and I don’t give a damn if anyone out there doesn’t like scooter riders! Fashion was one of the most stylish subcultures and for its time was quite a powerful movement, quite competing with the subculture!

So, let's go!

The term "Mod" comes from the word "modernism". The Mod subculture began in the 1950s in London and reached its peak by the mid-1960s. Mods were a youth subculture that had special requirements for appearance. Initially, clothing preference was given to tailored suits, later - just suits from Italian and British brands.

As for music, preferences were given to American soul, SKA, beat and R&B. In addition to the fact that representatives of this subculture were primarily associated with the consumption of huge amounts of amphetamines and noisy parties in London clubs, they rode scooters.

Story.

The Mods were a youth subculture consisting of representatives of the working class who were oriented toward Italian fashion. The Mods would get together on scooters and hang out in clubs or cafes in London, since Pubs at that time closed around 11:00 pm, and cafes were open until the morning and, in addition, there were jukeboxes.

The mods were not united, they did not have some kind of unifying idea, there were no clubs like the Outlaw motorcycle club of bikers, where the ideas of brotherhood and unity of the motorcycle club were promoted. They were just young people who gathered at night and partied until the morning. And yet, they left a mark on history with their bright appearance and unique tuning of their scooters.

By the summer of 1966, the Mod movement had already lost momentum. Not only did a stronger and more massive hippie movement emerge, and some of the Mods got off amphetamine and switched to weed :), but clothing fashion also underwent significant changes. And in the late 60s, the most radical representatives of this subculture also branched off from the Mods, calling themselves skinheads... Somehow even strange against the backdrop of general hippie sentiments...

That's how everything fell apart. Then there were several revivals in the 1980s and 2000s, but these were already short-term phenomena; nevertheless, it must be admitted that the Mod subculture died out in the 60s.

Characteristic features of the Modov style.

Fashion.

The Mods were formed from the first post-war generation that had a small surplus of money. Deliberately elegant clothing - suits for men and short skirts for girls - is a natural reaction to the hardships their parents had to endure.

Clubs and music.

Clubs: The Roaring Twenties, The Scene, La Discothèque, The Flamingo and The Marquee in London.

Music: The Rolling Stones, the Yardbirds and the Kinks and, of course, The Who.

Scooters.

Well, we finally got to motor scooters, which is why Mods ended up on this site.

Mods used Italian scooter brands such as Vespa or Lambretta. Since the Mods consisted of working-class youth, for many these scooters were the only way to escape from the drabness of everyday life.

Modov scooters were subjected to strong, but not expensive external tuning. Their scooters were painted in two colors, and they often had chewing gum candy wrappers stuck to them. Windshields were traditionally marked with the owner's name.

And, of course, the most characteristic feature of the subculture was the abundance of tourist trunks, arches and fog lights on scooters.

research work (project)

"Men's youth fashion as a subculture"

Completed: Gaifullin

Vildan Rafisovich

Student 10"A" class

MBOU secondary school No. 58

Sovetsky district Kazan

Supervisor: teacher

technologies:

Martynova E.P.

Kazan, 2016

Content.

1. Introduction

2.Goal and objectives.

3 . History of the term

4. The birth of subcultures.

5 . Basiccharacteristics of youth subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

8. Fashion and youth subcultures in our time.

9 .Conclusion

10.Bibliography.

“It’s scary to say how often the most exciting clothing concepts can be found in the poorest people.”

Designer Christian Lacroix.

Introduction.

When you walk through our wonderful city, you involuntarily pay attention to how my peers are dressed. And it can be very interesting to determine by appearance which social group of people he belongs to. And when he wears an unusual outfit, it’s immediately clear which subculture he prefers. And I wanted to consider the phenomenon of youth fashion as a subculture.

Modern society is not homogeneous. Each person is a special microcosm, with his own interests, problems, concerns. But at the same time, many of us have similar interests and requests. Sometimes, in order to satisfy them, it is necessary to unite with other people, because together it is easier to achieve the goal. This is the social mechanism for the formation of subcultures - associations of people based on interests that do not contradict the values ​​of traditional culture, but complement it. And youth subcultures (which are often based on hobbies for various genres of music, sports, literature, etc.) are no exception.

Teenagers have always constituted a special socio-demographic group, but in our time a specific teenage culture has developed, which, along with other social factors, plays a big role in the development of the modern teenager. Sociologists first addressed this issue in the 60s.XXcentury. In Russia, since the late 80s, the attention of researchers to youth subcultures has become more noticeable. In recent years, much more attention has been paid to youth subculture.

Each subculture has its own fashion and style. A single style unites people, be it music, clothing or lifestyle.

No matter how subcultures try to isolate themselves from the common basic culture, it is very difficult to become completely autonomous.

2.The purpose of my work :

consider the concepts of “fashion” and “subculture”; find out how these concepts are related to each other.

Tasks:

consider the main characteristics and aspects of youth subcultures,

highlight their features, show their interrelation and influence on the formation of fashion, tastes and worldview of the younger generation.

study literature on this topic;

Relevance: This topic is due to the recent emergence of a large number of diverse subcultures and the growing interest of researchers and society in this phenomenon.

Hypothesis: subcultures have a connection with fashion and mutually influence each other.

3. History of the term the concept of “subculture”, “fashion”.

Let's start with the history of the term. In 1950, American sociologist David Reisman, in his research, introduced the concept of a subculture as a group of people who deliberately choose the style and values ​​​​preferred by a minority. subcultures attract people with similar tastes who are not satisfied with generally accepted standards and values. The style of the youth subculture turns out to be not just its external expression; through its rituals and iconic forms, it challenges the existing moral order and dominant ideology. In the USSR, the term “Informal youth associations” was used to designate members of youth subcultures.

The subculture has the following characteristic features: a specific lifestyle and behavior of the participants; peculiar norms, values, worldview characteristic of a given social group; also the presence of a more or less obvious initiative center that generates ideas.

The word “fashion” comes from the Latin “modus” (measure, method, image, rule, norm). The Latin "modus" was used by the philosophy of the 17th-18th centuries. as a transitory property of matter (object). In the Russian language, the word “fashion” appears under Peter I and is recorded in the first Russian dictionaries.

The history of fashion is as old as the history of costume. From the moment when man discovered the significance of clothing as a means of protection from the adverse effects of nature, it was not long before he began to reflect on its aesthetic and stylizing function. Clothing speaks volumes; it reveals certain thoughts and characteristics of a person. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects, and therefore has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

4. The birth of subcultures.

It is customary to distinguish between the concepts of “subculture” and “youth subculture”. It is believed that a youth subculture is a culture created by young people for themselves; it is a culture “not for everyone,” a cultural subsystem within the official system. It determines the lifestyle, value hierarchy and mentality of its bearers. The youth subculture is a special case, one of the many subcultures in modern society. The epithet “youth” immediately defines a certain cultural niche occupied by people united by the principle of age. Age in this case is a very important demographic characteristic. Taking into account the special psychology of age in culture is undoubtedly important, since it leaves a significant imprint on spirituality and mentality. The youth subculture, according to the German scientist L. Hauser, is “a form of expression of the process of searching for and mastering a worldview.” In other words, a youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture is a part of the culture of a society that differs from the prevailing one, as well as social groups of carriers of this culture. A subculture creates its own unique culture, including a special value system, language, behavior, clothing and other aspects.

For my work, this feature of subcultures is of great interest, since it all has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion.

From birth, a child tries to repeat the behavior of his parents and other adults around him. For young children, their parents are role models. But the older the child is, the closer his age is to adolescence, the more children separate from their parents, they want to be different from them, and not only from their parents, but also from the society around them. This is the reason for the emergence of youth subcultures. Young people unite in separate movements that differ from the prevailing majority in behavior, clothing and general lifestyle. The main function of the youth subculture is to give young people the opportunity to stand out from others, to realize themselves, and to find friends with the same views.

Each youth subculture has its own attributes,your style of clothing and in music, their websites. There are even gestures characteristic of certain subcultures.

For a 50's teenager rock and roll was a revolution in literally everything: in the manner of dancing, speaking, walking, in views on the world, on power, on parents, and most importantly, a revolution in a person’s views on himself. This is how rock culture arose. And among young people it has become really fashionable.

In the 60s there arosesubculture "Modos" (Fashion). Fashion picks up the dandy way of dressing from the “Teddy Boys” (1950). Their motto is “moderation and accuracy!” The mods wore perfectly fitting suits, a chemical miracle of the early 60s - snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles. In 1962, the legendary Beatles became followers of the Modos style. Youth fashion, rapidly developing in this decade, also has its influence on the classic houses of Haute Couture. Such houses offered their clients an “ennobled” version of youth fashion: knee-length skirts, suits “modernized” with bright colors and new lines, classic “pumps” with low heels, etc. The fashion of the late 1960s is influenced by the new youth fashionsubcultures - “hippies”. The diffuse hippie style brought into fashion bright ethnic motifs from eastern countries, a deliberate effect of shabbyness and, above all, jeans, which were something of a symbol of protest against the bourgeois uniform. With their appearance and behavior, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. In search of individuality, young rebels mixed clothes of different styles, times and peoples. They sang the value of old clothes. This is where the worn effect and ripped jeans came from.

It is known that some subcultures continue to live to this day, while others cease to exist. This also has a connection with the phenomenon of fashion. Fashion quickly responds to the changing needs of young people. And sometimes it anticipates their change, creating new ones. If something ceases to be relevant, it disappears from everyday life into history. Pagers, for example, can now only be found in a museum, but once upon a time it was fashionable. The situation is the same with subcultures. The Zooties, rockabillies, beatniks, hippies (if they exist, then very few) have long disappeared. But now such a subculture as emo, for example, has gained enormous popularity among young people. This conclusion can be drawn from the abundance of young people dressed in this style. People who don’t consider themselves emo dress this way too, they just think it’s beautiful. The hairstyles that came into fashion thanks to this subculture also caught on very well. Such subcultures owe their mass popularity to the fashion created by youth media.

Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. For example, let's givesubculture "hipsters". It appeared in the USSR and existed from 1940 to the beginning. 1960s. This subculture had a Western (mainly American) lifestyle as a standard. Hipsters stood out with their bright clothes and original manner of speaking (special slang). They had a special interest in Western music and dance. Western fashion still has a huge influence on our country. Unfortunately, this applies not only to clothing... Subcultures are also an indicator of this. It is difficult to remember at least one subculture that originally arose in Russia. Basically they all came to us from the West.

Another subculture directly related to fashion ishipsters or indie kids. The name speaks for itself. It comes from the English word hip, which translates as “to be in the know.” Fashion is perhaps the main component of hipster culture.

5. Main characteristics of youth subcultures.

Each informal belongs to one of the types of youth subcultures: (the most common subtypes of subcultures are presented below)

general description

Subspecies

Description of subspecies

Musical

Subcultures based on fans of various genres of music

Alternatives

fans of alternative rock, rapcore

Goths

gothic rock fans

Metalheads

fans of heavy metal and its varieties

Punks

punk rock fans

Rockers

rock music fans

Hip-hop (rappers)

fans of rap and hip-hop

Skinheads

ska lovers

Emo

emocore fans

Image

Subcultures distinguished by style of clothing and behavior

supporters of the movement do not have a specific ideology; they prefer electronic club music.

Mods

snow-white nylon shirts with narrow collars, thin ties, boots with narrow toes, faux leather jackets with a zipper, neat hairstyles

The subculture is based on imitation of the “golden youth” by teenagers.

Glamourists

majors. The main component is the desire for a life advertised in glamorous “men’s” and “women’s” magazines (the pursuit of fashion, clothing and cosmetics).

Freaks

Hipsters

A "dead" Soviet movement inspired by the Western way of life.

Military

Paramilitary style of clothing.

Political and ideological

Subcultures distinguished by social beliefs

Antifa

Hippie

.

.

.

Informals

.

.

By hobby

Subcultures formed through hobbies

Bikers

Motorcycle lovers

Writers

Graffiti fans

Tracers

Parkour lovers

Hackers

Fans of computer hacking (usually illegally)

For other hobbies

Subcultures based on cinema, games, animation, literature.

Otaku

Fans of anime (Japanese animation)

Gamers

Fans of computer games

Football hooligans

6. The relationship between fashion and subculture. Youth men's fashion - for the young and stylish. Fashion and subculture occupy an important place in modern society. Both of these concepts are quite complex and interesting to study, and both of them are components of culture as a whole. Fashion today penetrates into all spheres of life.Some people even choose their behavior or lifestyle under the influence of fashion trends. In this case, we can talk about the existence of fashion for certain subcultures, as well as the mutual influence of these phenomena on each other. Fashion in general always strives for a young and fresh impression: it wants to rejuvenate. At the same time, the essence of fashion – change – is closer to the dynamic pace of life of young people.Fashion acts as a special social sign, a symbol of prestige. Fashion focuses on recognized leaders, unites people in accordance with a certain way of behavior, and stimulates interest in new things. The compensatory function allows you to fill unsatisfied or insufficiently satisfied needs, acting as a regulator of social needs. Fashion is a social phenomenon and therefore should be researched and studied from different angles. A youth subculture is usually a temporary phenomenon; it is a special form of life search. Subculture sometimes gives life to completely new things and ideas. And as it develops and interacts with society, this “new” phenomenon gradually penetrates into general culture and can even become a classic in some field. Fashion often gives rise to subcultures. No matter how representatives of one or another subculture try to stand out and deviate from official fashion, the end result is that the more widespread a subculture becomes, the greater the chance that it will be fashionable and vice versa - the more fashionable a subculture is among young people, the more widespread it will be.Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence. The important role of the youth subculture is that it provides the opportunity for self-development and self-realization to its participants. And also the opportunity to create your own reality and culture. It is not limited to household items or clothing. We came to the conclusion that there are practically no boundaries for fashion: it can penetrate science, art, politics, ideology, etc. Sometimes elements of such fashion go beyond the subculture and become quite acceptable to the bulk of the population, moving into the category of “official” fashion. Fashion for a certain style of music, clothing, etc. can become the basis of a subculture, and also determines the development or cessation of its existence.

Image for a representative of a subculture is not only clothing, it is a demonstration by one’s appearance of the beliefs and values ​​that the subculture promotes.As mentioned earlier, fashion is associated with the instinct of imitation. This is one of the contradictions inherent in youth - to be like everyone else and at the same time stand out. This contradiction is resolved thanks to subculture.For example, a Goth among “his own people” will be like everyone else, but in comparison with people who do not belong to this subculture, he will be a “black sheep.” The goal has been achieved, he will be noticed. Fashion is art, fashion is an endless list of victims, fashion is a lifestyle, fashion is a philosophy, fashion is shocking. Modern fashion is becoming more and more democratic; it no longer imposes strict rules, allowing everyone to express their individuality. Fashion is cyclical, so previously popular items often get a second life. And if you reconstruct the history of this or that thing, you can find connections with a wide variety of subcultures.

7. Fashion creators of the third millennium.

Refusal of a uniform style.Among the countless sources of inspiration for designers, retrospective ones have recently occupied the most important place. Even the greatest Couturiers usually draw inspiration from well-known human experiences. Genius often manifests itself in re-reading with brilliance well-known chapters of human history.Another source remains street fashion and the fashion of designers working for the “street” and subcultures. Beginning in the '90s, designers began to eclectically mix elements of several different subcultural styles and play freely with historical, cross-cultural and futuristic influences to create new fashions.

John Galliano admitted that the inspiration for his spring-summer 2005 collection was just one line from a song - it was the phrase “Napoleon in Rags” from the classic Bob Dylan song LikeaRollingStone. The show itself was more like a performance: videos, live music, singers, rock band Uminski, violins and viols and rock stars in the front row. Rock musicians, as is the custom of all rock dinosaurs, broke both guitars and drums towards the end of the performance.

Ripped jeans and rock 'n' roll presentedKarl Lagerfeld at Paris Fashion Week in his spring-summer 2005 collection for the house of Chanel, the prototypes of which were two great icons of the 20th century - James Dean and Coco Chanel. From the first - an abundance of torn denim jackets and frayed breeches with tweed and rock and roll leather chic, and from the second - glamorous and feminine fluffy dresses with corsets and sexy butterfly swimsuits.

Show of the latest autumn men's collection “swing, dudes and rock and roll” from SirPaul Smith the soundtrack of which was entirely composed of songs by modern young British and American bands playing rock and roll, Britpop, post-post-punk, junk, testified to the designer’s genuine love for non-commercial rock music and referred to the image of a swinging intellectual from Chelsea in the late 60s. Paul Smith invited his aristocratic intellectual to feel free to mix everything in his wardrobe. Large dockers and factory workers' caps with expensive tweed jackets and skinny trousers. And all this - with zebra boots with elongated toes. This is exactly what Smith believes a reincarnated London dandy from the 60s should look like in the winter of 2006.

Street style showed the House of Christian Dior at Paris Fashion Week in the fall/winter 2010/2011 collection. Stretched sleeves and a dropped loop effect are “new chic” from John Galliano. He invited the brilliant audience to imagine themselves in a torn knitted dress, in a bias-cut jacket with raw edges, in randomly selected clothes. “Would you be shocked if I wore something more comfortable?” - these words of the heroine Jean Harlow from the Howard Hughes film “Hell's Angels” are taken as an epigraph!

Often, truly great designers find ideas literally in their own backyard. Two years agoGiorgio Armani created a collection inspired by images of workers from Eastern Europe. How can a luxury designer get ideas for luxury clothing from a world of poor immigrants? Armani updated his new collection with berets slanted in the style of the 1960s.

Glam and rock by Jean-Paul Gaultier on Paris Fashion Week. “More glam! David Bowie, thank you! T. Rex, thank you! ”- this is how leading French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier began his seasonal show, loudly calling on the audience gathered in Paris to get up from their seats and move to the beat of the energetic music.

Models began to appear on the catwalk in bright, stretchy leggings that harkened back to the 1980s, sparkling shapeless tops, torn shearling coats with shiny leather prints, sweaters with huge fluffy collars, caped blouses, golden leggings and translucent tops with crosses. This is how Jean-Paul Gaultier saw the coming autumn and winter of 2009/2010.

Today there is an increasing popularity of the hippie style. Neo-hippie and ethnic romanticism captured the podiums. Dresses and skirts embroidered with flowers and beads, oriental motifs, intricate patterns, hand painting, and asymmetry are very popular. Skirts trimmed with braid, T-shirts decorated with rhinestones. Long, floor-length dresses with multi-colored embroidery. Tunics worn over trousers. Accessories: pouches, handbags, cloth bags, belts embroidered with beads.

000 CollectionZegna spring/summer 2015-Z Zegna was born under the sign of the house of Pitti Uomo, so it is quite fair to find designer influences this seasonPaul Surridge and Murray Scallon that they presented their current proposals for the Italian label.

Ermenegildo Zegna presented the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture spring/summer 2015 collection with a fashion show in the form of an original film directed by Johan Söderberg. Unconventional cut, a different look at the latest spring-summer trends in men's fashion - all forecasts from Stefano Pilati. The starting point was architectural restraint and classic elegance in premium men's business clothing. The silhouettes were perfectly adjusted in volume and cut. The main theme of this collection was to be the study of the original male strength and energy, intellectual masculinity.

It should be noted that the designer offered quite a lot of striped items. Where there are black and blue, where there are gray and dark red, black and white or beige with sand stripes - they are found in different widths, vertical and horizontal, even oblique and circular lines, as on shirts and jackets, coats and three-piece suits. The coat and wide trouser legs are cut in the usual loose way, just reaching your ankles. As for the choice of fabric, there is freedom in combining them, the main thing is that the combinations of materials are pleasant to the body, so that the air circulates freely and inspiredly. Youth trends are too diverse and changeable to highlight a specific style, so just focus on your ideas about convenience and your sense of style.

8. Youth subcultures and fashion in our time.

An important place in modern youth fashion is occupied by clothing in the style of various subcultures and simply style trends. Most young people belong to some movement - hip-hop, goths, punks, hippies - and dress in accordance with their hobbies. The main criteria for choosing such clothing are comfort and the ability to emphasize one’s belonging to a specific subculture.Hip-hopera easy to recognize by wide pants and a T-shirt that do not hinder movement while dancing. Hippies prefer loose fit, natural fabrics, and bright colors. Black clothing combined with dark makeup - your business card is ready. Particularly noteworthy are retro distractions and passion for recreating the styles of ancient civilizations; for summer - these are the motifs of Egypt and Ancient Greece; in spring and autumn - this can be the rich East and in winter the expected aspiration to the North.

Universal clothing for the city. However, youth fashion does not only include subcultures; there are also simpler and more universal styles. One of them is casual, comfortable clothes for everyday wear in the city. Casual is characterized by a mixture of styles, a combination of dissimilar elements - for example, shorts and a jacket, a business suit and sneakers, jeans and a formal shirt. The highlight of casual style is the opportunity to create new looks every day, combining and experimenting . The conclusion is simple: clothing style is a business card, which, even before the first words, can tell a lot about its owner. This is why it is important to create an image, taking into account your own preferences, and this is why there are so many trends in fashion: so that everyone can find themselves. Youth men's fashion is a fairly broad concept. Here you can find styles from various subcultures and just comfortable everyday clothes. The fashion portal Manero.ru offers a closer look at what youth men's fashion is.

Men's youth clothing

Men's youth fashion in the coming season is, first of all,denim fashion. Skinny jeans can be complemented with bright printed T-shirts or simple white T-shirts - the hit of the season. In cool weather, the T-shirt can be replaced with a long sweater with a striped pattern. In general, stripes will become the most popular print of the spring-summer 2015 season. It adorns T-shirts, sweaters, and jackets. Classic nautical stripes and multi-colored stripes, both horizontal and vertical, will be in fashion.

This year's sports style is aristocratic and reminiscent of sailing regattas and golf clubs rather than backyard basketball courts.

Every fashionable young man needs a classic knit polo shirt - white, dark cherry or blue. Another must-have element of a fashionable men's wardrobe is loose, soft cotton chinos in light colors, which can be an original alternative to jeans. Interesting models can be found in new collections of such European brands as Gray Connection, John Devin, Mod, Esprit, Tom Tailor and many others.The clash of classics and avant-garde: as always, two opposites met on the catwalks - a strict classic style and the image of a fashionable rebel. Both of these areas of the fashion industry find their buyers. Young people are also happy to choose traditional jackets and blazers, skillfully combining them with jeans and trousers. The coming year was no exception: classic men's fashion is in demand not only by respectable businessmen, but also by their younger brothers.

Some other trends in youth fashion

Today, youth fashion is still not as fierce as before, but it is influenced by youth subcultures. Hip-hop, rock and punk also left their mark on men's youth fashion in 2015.

Hipster- This is another noticeable trend in modern youth fashion. Retro style references, granny sweaters, stylish vests, jackets and tapered trousers are still relevant. Bright colors and the use of stylish accessories are encouraged - sunglasses, scarves, hats and bags. Another trend that has been increasingly capturing youth fashion lately is the so-called J-style. It is characterized by the fact that it has overt references to the fashion of the East, in particular Japan. Original patterns and non-standard styles of J-fashion clothing help create a memorable youth look .

Street fashion for men

This year it is presented quite brightly. Most designers of fashion houses relied on street style and were right. The main principle that is observed when choosing an outdoor wardrobe is comfort and convenience. Biker jackets, bomber jackets, raincoats and coats - all these types of outerwear are great for youth street style.

yukami. The rolled-up jeans are completely splattered with paint, which adds some chaos to the men's outfits and makes the collection much closer to youth. Admiral's coats and naval cloaks with wide shoulders proudly stand out throughout the entire ensemble, some of them even have shoulder straps. The sleeves are decorated with wide blue stripes. In general, Gucci collections always have something of a style military, so there is nothing unexpected about the new clothes. Some shirts are more reminiscent of pajamas: they are just as long and without a collar.

It will be interesting to know that Frida Giannini always prefers two styles: a jet setter in a pantsuit and a rock musician with a rebellious character. So the designer combined these two images into one, calling them “decadent admiral.” You can also see the influence of British subcultures, for example, mods. Does a Gucci pantsuit look too formal? It doesn’t matter, Frida Gianini relaxed her look, just roll up your trousers, put on moccasins and put on a bag over your shoulder, and you will radically change your appearance.

7.Conclusion

The fashion industry today is not a closed monolithic system that sternly dictates to everyone what is in the bull's eye and what is out. On the contrary, she herself, in turn, experiences the enormous influence of the subculture, “street fashion,” which very quickly becomes the main source of imagination for the creators of the fashion world. They take ideas from styles and subcultures, modernize them, and then mass produce them. Subculture research is like a spotlight that shines a spotlight on a cultural space in search of originality and authenticity - with the fashion industry hot on its heels. Thanks to the Internet, digital and mobile communications, the world is becoming faster and reality is becoming virtual. Now the decisive factor is the flow of information - from the catwalk to manufacturers, and from final buyers to fashion creators.As a result, "street style" and designer fashion quickly became closer to each other, and fashion as a whole became more monolithic. In the era of globalization, boundaries are being erased in fashion.

The ability to dress fashionably, in accordance with the ideas inherent in a given age, is perceived as an extremely important feature that allows a teenager to be considered “almost an adult.” Those who are still dressed according to the standards of children's fashion are often called "nerds", "skins", "hi", "touched", or "babies who go shopping hand in hand with mommy." All these unflattering reviews emphasize that "nerds" are perceived as people with great oddities or are completely marginalized in the peer group, and all because they do not do what is considered normal for young people, that is, they do not listen to the opinions of children their own age, they don’t pay attention to what they’re wearing, etc. And it is precisely, most often, such “nerds” who fall under the influence of subcultures, so that in the future they will “stand out from the crowd.”

Thus, the connection between subcultures and fashion is obvious, this connection can be expressed in different ways: subcultures create their own fashion, at the same time influencing the development of fashion as a whole, they in some sense give birth to a new fashion, and sometimes fashion makes possible the emergence and the development of subcultures. This complex connection concerns mostly the external image, some individual elements. But, as was said earlier, fashion is not only clothes, it affects almost all areas of the life of a modern person. Therefore, the connection between fashion and subculture is deeper than it seems at first glance. But even its external manifestations are enough to draw a conclusion about its existence.

So, the topic of subcultures and fashion is one of the most interesting topics. It is vast and multifaceted. It is vital and is observed every day. Subcultures and fashion do not stand still, they develop and change. They are increasingly embracing humanity.

8. Bibliography

S.I. Levikova / “Youth subculture” / textbook / M., / Grand / 2004.

B.D. Parygin / Social psychology: textbook / 2nd edition / M., / 2003.

Fashion theory. No. 10, winter 2008-2009. Dick Hebdige. Chapters from the book “Subculture: the meaning of style”

A. Vasiliev/ “Russian Fashion”/M.,/2004.

www.hazzen.com/publications/articles/istorija_subkultury_hippi_chast_i

www.glamur.3dn.ru/forum/39-250-1

“Bike Freak” magazine issue No. 6, article “Guys in Leather”

Magazine "POP» autumn- winter 2005