What is the distance between the 12th fret and the string. Acoustic guitar string height

Beginning guitarists often wonder: " Why is it uncomfortable to play the guitar?"One of the reasons may be incorrect string height above fretboard guitars. More often than not, they are located further from the fingerboard than necessary, so it is very difficult for a beginner to clamp the strings. Let's figure it out what should be the height of the strings, and also how to adjust it.

Most often, the height of the strings is determined by the 12th fret. We count down the 12th fret on the guitar. How to count frets:

How to count frets

And we find the iron nut of the 12th fret. We apply a ruler to measure the distance from this nut to the strings:

The distance from the nut of the 12th fret to the strings should be about 4 mm. If it is more, then the strings will simply be difficult to pinch. You can do less, but if you overdo it, the strings will buzz when playing (touching other frets), but more on that later.

You can also measure the height of the strings in the same way at the 1st fret. It should be 1-2 mm.

String height adjustment

Let's see how we can lower (which is needed more often) or raise (which is needed less often) the height of the strings.

NOTE: To avoid confusion, I’ll say right away that here I call different parts of the guitar “saddle”:

• Plastic saddles: located at the top and bottom of the guitar. There are strings on them.
• Iron frets. These are the glands that separate the frets.

How to reduce string height: Nut

To do this, you need to work with the lower threshold, which looks like this:

Guitar bridge

We'll file it down.

1. We remove the strings (or you can simply loosen them to such an extent that this plastic nut can be pulled out).
2. Remove the threshold (if it is not glued in).
3. We draw a line with a pencil, to what extent we will grind down the threshold. Before this, we measure how much the threshold needs to be ground off.
4. We take fine-grain sandpaper and grind the threshold down to our strip. Stitch down the bottom edge, NOT where the strings are. That is, a smooth edge (and where the strings lie, it is slightly rounded).

After this, put the strings in place () and check their height.

In general, this is all the instructions for reducing the height of the strings. But there are several nuances:

• Not everything is so simple with measurements. If your string height is 5 mm (we look at all this at the 12th fret nut), and you need to lower it so that it becomes 4 mm (that is, by 1 mm), then we sharpen the nut by 2 mm. Approximately the following calculations. But you still sharpen it a little bit and check whether it has become easier to clamp the strings.
• There is a problem that you can accidentally sharpen the nut, then the strings will become so close (low) to the fingerboard that when playing they will hook the adjacent iron fret nuts, which will cause a buzzing sound. Therefore, before sharpening the bottom threshold, do not rush, and sharpen it a little at a time. Better yet, buy a spare plastic sill (or two) so you don’t have to worry about resharpening.

How to reduce string height: Nut

If there is also a large distance on the first fret, then sharpening the nut may not solve the problem. To do this, you will also have to sharpen the top sill, where the strings lie.

This is what he looks like:

This nut, unlike the lower one, already has grooves for strings. So, to adjust the height of the strings above the first fret, namely to reduce the height of the strings, it is necessary to make these recesses deeper. But keep in mind that you do this at your own peril and risk! It would be good if this top sill is removable and can be replaced. But the problem is that most often these thresholds are glued in.

How to deepen these recesses? You can use a very small file or a very thin needle file. These tools with such parameters are difficult to find. But there are special files for the nut of a guitar, they look like this:

But if there are no such tools, you can make the cut with the string itself. To do this, naturally, we remove the strings (or string). We take the appropriate string and begin to move it back and forth along the cut. This will deepen the hole.

How to increase the height of the strings?

As I said, this is rare, but it may still be necessary. Typically, this need arises when the strings buzz, that is, they touch the frets, which they should not touch.

To adjust the height of the strings, when we need to increase it, we work with the bottom saddle. Everything is simple here: if to reduce the height we sawed off the threshold, now, on the contrary, we will put something under it. What to add? For example, a match (or several, along the entire length of the threshold).

Or you can simply buy a new lower threshold, which will be higher than the previous one. If it turns out to be much higher, then you can cut it down :)

Conclusion

In any case, you don’t have to worry so much and don’t count millimeters. If you see that string height above fretboard too large - file the bottom until it becomes comfortable to play. I completely threw out my nut and play without it :) I like it when the height of the strings is minimal. It's more convenient to play this way.

But before you experiment, buy an extra threshold just in case.

Fine-tuning an electric guitar is a much more complex process than tuning an acoustic one. This is due to the large number of mechanisms and parts in the Electra, which require additional adjustment. In this article we will look step by step at how to properly tune all the necessary elements of an electric guitar.

Anchor adjustment

An anchor is a long metal rod located inside the neck that regulates its deflection and prevents deformation under the tension of the strings. Most often, it is tuned well and there is no need to touch it, but if the guitar rattles with average playing strength, then you will have to tinker.

When the truss rod is not adjusted correctly, the neck becomes concave or curved. This results in string chatter (if the neck is curved) or a large distance between the strings and the neck (if the neck is concave), making it more difficult to play.

How to understand that it is the anchor that is “to blame”? There is a special test for this: clamp any string on the first fret and the same string at the place where the neck is attached to the body (approximately 20-21 frets). Now look at the distance between the 7th fret nut and the string. Ideally, it is 1-3 millimeters. If this is not the case, then you will have to adjust the anchor. To do this you need to follow the following algorithm:

1. Loosen all strings.
2. Unscrew the bolts on the curtain.
3. Insert the hex key and tighten the anchor.

Which way should I turn the key? Clockwise - straightening the bar, counter - arching. If there is anything still unclear to you, we have posted an online video with a detailed description below.

Important! Turn the keys very slowly and carefully until you achieve the desired result. Sometimes turning the key 2-3 degrees is enough to get the desired effect.

After working with the truss rod, you can tune the guitar and start playing. But, there is a high probability that in a couple of days you will have to resort to tuning again, since the strings will create pressure which can lead to slight deformation. There's nothing wrong with that.

If you did everything correctly, but the strings are still rattling or only part of the strings are rattling, there are several reasons for this:

• The strings need to be replaced because their winding is worn out (if the strings are more than 6 months old);
• The guitar bridge is not set up correctly. It may be higher or lower than normal;
• the saddles on the bridge are not adjusted correctly, they may be lowered;
• the top of the neck is worn out, or it is not from this guitar;
• neck deformation. This can only be solved by replacing the neck.

String height adjustment

If everything is fine with the neck, but the guitar still rattles, then you should try adjusting the height of the strings. The higher they are raised above the bar, the less likely they are to rattle and the more difficult they are to clamp. The standard rise of the strings above the fingerboard is described in the table.

Before you begin, be sure to loosen the strings. After this, you can begin adjusting the height of the saddle. Many guitarists ask how to determine the optimal height? There is no answer to this question. It all depends on the characteristics of your sound production. The harder you play and the harder you play, the higher the height should be so that the strings do not hit the saddle. However, remember that the greater the distance to the strings, the more difficult it is to press them. For beginners, it is always recommended to set the minimum height. The attached video will help you understand unclear points.

Scale adjustment

The scale is the distance between the upper and lower saddle, in other words, the working length of the string, that is, the one that is directly involved in the “sound”. The purity of the guitar's sound depends on how well the scale is adjusted. Most guitars are 25.5" or 24.7" long. When purchased, it is roughly configured and you often have to configure it yourself.

First, tune the instrument to standard tuning, and then select the chromatic mode in the tuner. Now play the sound at the 12th fret and look at the tuner arrow: if it deviates to the right, then the scale needs to be “lengthened,” and if it moves to the left, then, on the contrary, shortened, that is, move the saddle closer to the center. Remember to tune your guitar every time you move the saddle.

What to do if the guitar is still out of tune? Most likely, it will have to be carried to the workshop. There is a high probability that the problem lies in the incorrect placement of the nuts, bridge, or incorrect markings of the frets. It often happens that the frets wear out and the point of contact between the string and the nut changes. In this case, it will not be possible to accurately adjust the scale; you will need to grind and polish the frets again. All the most important points are discussed online in the video attached below.

Replacing strings

Another important point that all guitarists have to face sooner or later is. This process is simple, but still has its own nuances.

In the table below, we have given the approximate number of turns of strings on the pegs. This is not important, but will serve as a guide for beginners on how long the string should be left. This is not an absolute truth and following this rule will not affect the guitar in any way.

And finally, a small life hack. To make your strings last longer, you need to take care of them. The biggest problem is the deposits of pieces of skin and sweat on the strings, which, interacting with the guitar, destroy the structure of the string, oxidizing the metal. This reduces the service life of the strings. To slow down this process, always approach the instrument with clean hands and wipe the strings with alcohol at least once a week.

You can also watch the online video if any points are unclear.

Well, that's all the information that may be useful to you when tuning your guitar. Perhaps tuning an electric guitar seems complicated: adjusting the truss rod, the height of the strings, the scale, but if you figure out the network, it turns out that everything is not so difficult and even brings pleasure! Thank you for reading the article, we hope that you found answers to all your questions. If anything is still unclear, ask in the comments below. Join our VKontakte group, where you will find even more useful and fresh materials for guitarists. Bye!

After purchasing an electric guitar, many beginners immediately try to play something, which is understandable. However, a problem may occur due to rattling of one or more strings. The strings can also be difficult to pinch, making playing difficult. All of this can be caused by incorrect string heights.

Why is it necessary to adjust the height of the strings?

This question is important for both beginners and pros. However, in the case of the former, the reason is basic sound quality. As a rule, when purchasing a guitar, especially an inexpensive one, you need to know that initially the strings are not adjusted properly. Because of this, a characteristic rattling sound appears during the playing process, especially noticeable on the thickest sixth string. This greatly spoils the experience of the game.

For an already experienced guitarist, the need to adjust the strings is determined by the playing style. If the emphasis is on playing speed, then the strings should be slightly lower than the standard value. Also, over time, the guitarist himself chooses the most optimal height for his playing style. However, before that, a lot of time and forced adjustments to the height of the strings on the electric guitar will pass.

Standard height

Focusing on the already accepted parameters, it should be noted that the standard height of the strings on an electric guitar changes for each individually. As a rule, on the very first and thinnest string this value is 1.5 mm. Each subsequent string will be 0.1 mm higher. So, already on the sixth string the value will be 2 mm.

What does the height of the strings depend on?

The stated optimal height of strings on an electric guitar in the paragraph described above is suitable for medium-thick strings. The said increase of 0.1 mm is caused precisely by the increasing volume of the string. This is noticeable even to the naked eye. The first string, being the thinnest, allows the smallest height above the fretboard, while the sixth, with a slight deviation from the optimal value, can begin to rattle, hitting the frets.

When choosing what height the strings should be, you should focus on the sound and personal feelings. First, you should align the strings to the optimal values ​​(the height at the last fret is measured). Then try playing with this setting. Particular attention should be paid to the thickest string, since it is when playing on it that the height problem will be more noticeable. Even if during playing a given string does not seem particularly important and is rarely used, the problem can show itself at the most inopportune moment and disrupt the sound.

If the optimal height turns out to be unsuitable, then you should increase the height of the strings above the neck of the electric guitar. Sometimes 0.1 mm is enough to get the desired result. It is not advisable to overdo it in this process, as this will complicate the game.

Acceptable values ​​for string heights

Earlier it was mentioned that string height depends on playing style. You should consider the adjustment options in more detail:

How to set up

To adjust the height of the strings on an electric guitar, you need to understand the existing bridge. There are several varieties of them, each of which has its own configuration features. So, the most popular are Tune-o-Matic, Hardtail, Vintage Tremolo, Floyd Rose.

Other settings

The height of the strings on an electric guitar is quite important, but it is not the only setting that affects the quality of the game. In most cases, the tuning process is limited to tightening the pegs to get the string to sound correctly. However, if the guitar is tuned correctly and the strings are new enough, there will be no need for frequent tuning.

When an electric guitar is not adjusted properly, the strings will often become out of tune and the frequency of the sound adjustments will increase, which will affect the quality of the instrument. There are few basic settings other than string height.

Neck deflection

The neck of an electric guitar contains a metal rod called a truss rod. Its purpose is quite simple - to prevent the bar from bending under tension

When adjusting the height of the strings on an electric guitar, a situation may arise when it is not possible to make an adjustment due to the fact that the height differs greatly on different frets. The problem may lie precisely in the anchor. It should be adjusted before adjusting the height of the strings, since it is thanks to it that they hold on.

Before you begin to adjust the anchor, you should determine whether there is a curvature and in which direction it is directed. This is determined by pressing the string at the first and sixth fret. If the string comes into contact with one of the frets located between the clamped ones, you need to loosen the anchor. If the height is too high, tighten it. The test is carried out on an already configured instrument.

The adjustment is carried out with a hex key, which turns the anchor bolt. To loosen the anchor, twist counterclockwise. To pull up - clockwise. In this case, you should not be too zealous; a small shift is enough to bring the anchor back to normal. However, the change may not be immediately noticeable, since the wood of the fingerboard takes a little time to take on the new shape.

Mensura

At this point, attention should be paid to the working length of the string. This setting is not possible on every guitar. However, electric guitars with a tremolo system allow this procedure. The tuning itself is carried out on each string, starting with the first. The natural harmonic should be taken out at the 12th fret. To do this, first touch the string, but do not pinch it, and then pluck it with the finger of your free hand. Remember the sound. Then press the same string and compare the resulting sounds. They should be the same. If the harmonic is lower, reduce the string. Otherwise, increase.

Pickups

Finally, you should pay attention to the height of the pickups. This value will determine how an electric guitar connected to an amplifier will sound. Typically, the pickup should be as close to the strings as possible, but they should not catch on it while playing. Also, the strings on the last frets should not sound worse than before adjusting the pickup.

The process of adjusting the height of the strings on an electric guitar may seem quite simple. However, in practice, beginners are not always able to cope with the adjustment. It will take time to learn all the intricacies of the procedure, so during the very first setup it would be useful to seek the help of a professional who can accurately perform the procedure and, possibly, detect existing defects that impede correct setup.

The most common “finishing” of a guitar at home is lowering the strings.
Few people are content with the standard value of 3.7 mm at the 12th fret. You always want less, even less, more and more - until the strings begin to “get along”. And then the fine-tuning begins in a new circle, but with lamentations about poor-quality factory assembly.

Let's try to talk about what we think is the most rational way to reduce the height of the strings.

There is nothing complicated about it. There is only a strict sequence of actions. And, of course, accuracy. It is important to remember that haste is needed for a completely different matter.

First of all, let's agree that we have a standard situation, in which the height of the bone (bridge) is sufficient for maneuver, and the neck is without defects and straight.

Let's immediately measure the height of the sixth (thickest) string above the 12th fret nut.
This height is measured in one single way - from the TOP OF THE FRETS to the BOTTOM OF THE STRING. There are no other ways. There is no need to invent anything.
We take a plumber's (metal) ruler, where the zero is flush, and place it with a zero BEHIND the sixth string - right on the fret. This is the best way to see it. And look at the distance from the top of the nut to the bottom of the string.

Let's assume that we got it - 3.5 mm.

We need:
Loosen the strings enough to:

1. don't remove it completely, but


2. just free the fretboard from them, fixing them somewhere below with a clothespin, wire - in any way.

Next step.
Controlling with a ruler, we align the neck using an anchor. The bar should be as straight as possible. Not every instrument allows you to achieve a perfectly straight neck. We will try, in any case, to ensure that the bending is minimal, and best of all, that there is no bending at all.

Now let's adjust the height of the bone.
We take as a basis the initial height of the strings above the 12th fret nut. As we remember, we got 3.5 mm. And we want, again let’s assume, 2.5 mm.
You need to remove 1 mm.

We are not in a hurry to immediately grind down the bone by 1 mm. What we want is not the same as what we get. It may be that we can lower the strings even lower, or it may happen that we stop at fractions of a millimeter.

It is enough to grind off half a millimeter at a time.
Grind on any flat abrasive surface. You can take sandpaper and fix it on a flat block, you can use a file, or a grinding wheel. Anything will do, as long as the abrasive surface is perfectly smooth.

We grind the bone down little by little, periodically returning it to its place and tightening the strings. You don't have to tighten all the strings - the three thickest ones are enough. They have the greatest amplitude of vibrations and it is with them that problems arise with touching the frets.

Now, attention! - the principle is this:
You need to grind down the bone exactly until the strings begin to “get along” a little, i.e. touch the frets. For each guitarist, this moment will occur differently, depending on the individual playing style and the strength of the attack.
A guitarist with an expressive playing technique should not even think about setting the strings too low. The laws of physics cannot be changed. The amplitude of string vibrations should not exceed the distance of the string to the frets.

So.
We ground down the bone with a straight neck so much that the strings began to “get along” a little.
Great.
We install all the strings back, put them in the usual tuning, and then again give the neck time to react - this time to the pressure of the strings, bending it towards the body. Two hours will be enough.

After two hours, we adjust the strings and check. It may well happen that our strings, which previously “got along” a little, will no longer “get along”, because the bar went a little towards the body and raised them.
If this does not happen and the strings still “get along”, we again take the anchor key in our hands and begin to very carefully pull the neck towards the body. No sudden movements - just a little, a quarter turn at a time.
We need such a bend in the neck that the strings stop touching the frets.

Once this happens - congratulations! - adjustment is completed. The resulting distance is the minimum for your guitar and your playing style.
You will no longer be able to lower them to a lower distance.

This method is suitable for both acoustic and classical Crusader guitars, because... all of them are equipped with anchors. For some classical guitars that do not have a truss rod, the method for lowering the string height will be different.

The quality of play and technique indirectly depends from. I remember how I felt the difference between my Russian guitar and a classical one, when I came to the teacher’s first grade at the age of ten. My first teacher had a nice “varnished” instrument with nylon strings. Yes, when I came to , I wanted to stay there, only because there I could play a “normal” instrument. Therefore, the adjustment distance between strings and fingerboard is an important factor in the process of learning and playing the guitar.

Every guitar has the ability to be adjusted, albeit by sawing the sills that hold the strings. Let's look at each in order:

There are two ways to adjust the distance between the strings and the neck - this is the deflection of the neck, which can be adjusted with an anchor bolt that penetrates the entire neck. The greater the tension in the anchor, the more the bar straightens. If we loosen the anchor bolt, the neck bends accordingly - the mechanics are quite simple.

The second way is to adjust distance between strings and fingerboard bottom threshold. On a Western and classical guitar, this will cause some difficulties, since you will have to file the saddle, or, conversely, build it up.

These two methods are not unique and have their own purpose. The deflection of the neck has a greater effect on the sound of strings clamped on the frets closer to the first (zero) nut. The height of the nut, in turn, mainly controls the sound for sounds played on the second half of the neck, closer to the soundboard.

And one more small note distance between strings and fingerboard measured at the 12th fret. Mostly