How to age a white plastic frame. Imitation game: making your own patina

Do you know that in the endless sea of ​​accessories, a photo frame plays a very important role? After all, it not only frames cherished memories, but is also an attractive decorative element.
Decorate a lady's table in shabby chic style or add a touch of romance to the bedroom, or maybe the kids can make a bright frame with their own hands with funny images and figures?

Today, continuing to replenish my piggy bank with author’s master classes, I have prepared decoupage of photo frames for you. In it you will find a step-by-step description of the execution technique and perhaps create your photo frame in a style that is closer to you and your interior. Here we go.

Materials and tools.

Here's what we'll need in our work:

  1. frame (preferably wooden)
  2. putty
  3. stencils
  4. primer Sonnet (black)
  5. acrylic lacquer
  6. white chalk paint (these are gypsum-based paints)
  7. PVA glue
  8. napkins for decoupage
  9. bitumen varnish
  10. brushes, sponges, cloths.

Frame blanks can be bought at the Ikea store. We prepare it for decoration; to do this, remove the glass and cardboard and put it aside so as not to get it dirty.

Screening.

My idea is to create slightly worn patterns with black paint showing through the wear and with delicate rose flowers in the corner. Let's see what happens, but for now we apply putty through a stencil. I use Parade acrylic finishing putty (it is very finely grained and sands well), and if you don’t have one, you can replace it with putty from any other company or use an artistic texture paste.

I apply putty to one side and let it dry slightly so as not to spoil it when I apply it to the other side of the frame.

My stencil has an adhesive backing and is very convenient to work with. If everything is ready, let the patterns dry well for an hour or more. After drying, lightly sandpaper to remove small particles that are not attached to the surface. Of course, they will all come off later anyway, but it is better to do this before painting with primer.

Primer.

Cover with black primer and dry.

After the primer, I applied acrylic varnish, this will probably seem a little strange to you, but without varnish, the primer easily came off when creating scuffs, along with the paint that I washed off. If you have enough time, you can do without additional varnishing and let the primer dry thoroughly, or better yet, leave it overnight.

Chalk paint.

Now we are working with chalk paint. But I want to note that to create delicate scuffs, it is not necessary to use chalk paint. This effect can be achieved with artistic paints. You can read how to do this at this link.

I have this decorative white aging paint Shabby Provence from Borma Wachs.

I tint it a little by adding a drop of vanilla art paint. The white color takes on a warmer, milky hue.

I apply it with a brush to the entire frame.

Let it dry and arm yourself with a damp cloth. We rub those areas where these very traces of time will be, i.e. abrasions.

I’m going through the ends, the stencil patterns, and I ended up with this, not yet completed, “shabi chic” frame, but I already like it.

Decoupage

For decoupage, I chose these roses on a white background, which I printed on my printer.

If you do not have such a napkin with a white background, then you will need to cut out the image from any other napkin clearly along the contour.

Glue it to the corner of the frame. I use ordinary construction PVA glue from Lakra. So far it has never failed, the main thing is that it doesn’t turn the napkin yellow.

Using a soft brush, we begin gluing from the middle of the napkin.

If folds form, as happens with beginning decoupage artists, do not be discouraged. When the napkin has completely dried on the surface, the folds can be sanded with sandpaper No. 600-800.

I wanted to add more drawing to this side. Let it be.

The picture seemed very bright and saturated to me, so I lightly painted the dried, sanded napkin with transparent white paint.

The paint will become transparent if you add a little water to it.

Well, the colors have become more muted and now we can fix our beauty with varnish.

I coated it with Dulux celko acrylic matte varnish.

Patination

You can get it dirty with bitumen varnish, as in this case. We take bitumen varnish onto a small piece of sponge, beat the sponge on a sheet of paper so that just a little bit of varnish remains. Otherwise, the varnish will apply a very rich brown color, and we only need to darken the frame slightly. We apply it as shown in the photo.

Bituminous varnish takes a little longer to dry than acrylic varnish; it will still remain sticky for about an hour.

If you overdo it, you can remove the excess from the surface with white spirit.

Brags

And voila, the frame is ready!

Another master class on decorating antique frames is coming very soon, stay tuned for the news.

And these are shots of what the girls and I once did at one of the events at the Bereginya school of handicrafts.

What kind of frames did you get? Good luck in your creativity, new ideas and inspiration! Thank you for stopping by, see you again.

  1. We do not prime the frame with anything, or we apply one thin layer of primer, we don't sand it out. This picture will be slightly aged, and I need a surface with the texture of untreated wood so that the patination composition is retained in it.
  2. Paint the frame in the desired color (1-2 layers). I chose the color from the very motif - it’s milky white and here and there, although it’s not visible, there are light yellow stripes (about uneven painting of the surface, see here, how to evenly apply primer, paint, varnish - here).
  3. Diluted with water a mixture of brown paint and a drop of black(the shade can be changed, make it more brown or more black, or yellowish-brown; you can make it more or less dark; the saturation will depend on the amount of water). And we apply this dark water to the frame, Wash immediately with a dry or slightly damp cloth. If the surface of the wood is uneven, you will get this texture:

4. Cover with matte varnish in 2 layers.

We get a stylish picture, which I already showed in the previous master class:

Frame 2. Artificial abrasions plus dry brush aging.

Here I have chosen a marine motif, there are “antique nautical things” on the chest of drawers, so the frame should match the motif. Our motif determines the style of the frame, so decoupaging a painting always takes less time than decorating a frame for this painting. So, here is the picture itself (there was no frame yet):

There were two options - abrasions on a candle or “on a wash”, but I chose abrasions on a wash, because on our motif the abrasions are more reminiscent of “wash” rather than “candle”))))))

Let's try to repeat this aging on the frame.

  1. We paint the frame brown (you can prime it, you don’t have to prime it, that’s fine). Not even brown, but as brown-earthy as in the motif. Let it dry and you can varnish it (I didn’t cover it).
  2. Mix blue as in the motif (keep in mind that acrylic darkens slightly when drying), paint one layer on one side.

After a few minutes, when the paint has dried, With a slightly damp cloth we begin to wash in those places where there should be abrasions. If you erased more than necessary, no big deal, you can re-touch it. If you have not yet watched the video on the box with abrasions on the launder, watch it.

It turns out something like this:

  1. When all parties are ready, take art bristles with white paint and in dry brush technique we go over the entire surface, bleaching quite strongly her.


Working with a dry brush is as follows:

  • Take a small amount of paint on the brush;
  • Wipe off almost all the paint on a napkin so that the brush is almost dry;
  • We sweep over the surface - and the remaining paint clings to surface unevenness or simply leaves intermittent stripes, as if dusting the surface. We always work from the edge of the workpiece, without leaving clear brush marks.

Here on the frame I poked it further with a brush, leaving white spots. It turned out very picturesque :)

  1. Two layers of varnish - and sea ​​panel can be hung on the wall. It’s good if there’s a steering wheel hanging nearby, you can even do it without decoupage or a bell, and the walls are made of logs, there’s sand and seaweed on the floor, and instead of a bed there’s an old wooden boat (I was daydreaming about something)…

Frame 3. Antique baguette for a still life with flowers.

  1. I took as a basis plastic frame with a beautiful baroque relief(and she was originally white!!! Horror!!!) We prime the plastic 1 layer of aerosol varnish.
  2. Cover it with gold paint In a certain number of layers, depending on the hiding power of our paint, you can first coat it with ocher, then fewer layers will be needed.
  3. After the gold dries, we take bitumen varnish(for lovers of scented products) or any patination agent, or even black-brown paint diluted with varnish. I don’t like scented products, but I really like bitumen varnish, so I’ll show you based on that.

We put on gloves (otherwise you will walk around with black nails for 3 days, and then make excuses that you decoupaged picture frames), Using a sponge, apply bitumen varnish to the entire surface, especially in all the depressions of the relief. With a sponge - because you can simply throw it away later.

4. Immediately wipe off all excess from the relief with a dry cloth, leaving the indentations patinated.

This aging happened on a flat surface:

5. We work especially carefully on small elements:

And erase here more carefully:

  1. Dry for 24 hours according to the instructions (if it is bitumen varnish or bitumen). The rest dries faster.
  2. Let's cover this dark matter non-aqueous varnish(according to the instructions, bitumen varnish is coated with shellac, but, as always, I prefer aerosol).
  3. Additionally, you can walk gold wax on the protruding parts of the relief for more shine.
  4. Everything can be hung in a baroque interior (meh... we need to change the furniture... and wallpaper... and at the same time paint the ceiling with frescoes... oh!)

Patina is the natural process of aging and oxidation that appears on antique furniture and decorative items in the form of plaque or cracks. Patina does not spoil the item at all, but on the contrary, increases its value. It is an integral element of the vintage style; it can also be found in a baroque interior and even in a loft.

However, waiting for your chest of drawers or copper doorknob to age on its own can be a very long time, especially if your items do not have a rich history. But you want to admire the patina in the interior now, which is why we have selected several master classes for you on how to create almost real patina with your own hands! So, choose what you like best!

Imitation of patina using oxidizing paints

For this method, we will need special oxidizing paints with a patina effect, primer and some kind of base that you want to turn into a vintage item. This could be, for example, a photo frame or a ceiling rosette. The base itself can be wooden, plastic or metal - the material is not too important.


First you will need to coat the base with primer to help the paint adhere better. After this, carefully paint the entire surface with gold paint and, before it has time to dry, apply a turquoise-colored oxidizing agent with a thin brush. The oxidizing agent is applied in small strokes to those areas that you want to “age.”




After some time, it will begin to appear and create exactly the patina effect that we need. Finally, the frame should be varnished. See the visual sequence of actions

Imitating patina using conventional paints


If the previous option seemed a little complicated to you, or you simply don’t want to bother looking for such paints, then you can also use ordinary ones, at the same time using your imagination and sleight of hand.


Buy acrylic paints in bronze and turquoise with a metallic effect, as well as brushes or a sponge and regular water spray.


Using a brush or sponge (you can achieve a denser and more structured coating with a sponge), paint ordinary jars with bronze paint and let them dry thoroughly.

After this, mix the paint that imitates patina with water and relieve your soul, spraying it on the jars as you please. A modern decorative element with a taste of antiquity is ready! By the way, you can decorate almost anything in this way.


"Crushed" technique

If you want to patina something on a larger scale, then don’t be scared - it’s easier than it seems. An ordinary dark brown table can easily be turned into an antique one, covered with an almost real patina.


To do this, all you need is to mix paints of a suitable shade and arm yourself with crumpled paper or a towel.


Treat the entire surface and legs of the table in a “creased” style, let it dry thoroughly and - voila! - you are the owner of a real rarity. Well, almost real, shh.


Photo: happymodern.ru, ib-gallery.ru,liveinternet.ru, livemaster.ru, redouxinteriors.com

Instructions

Photo. Choose what your soul and heart tells you. The success of the gift largely depends on the image that will be in the frame.

Select a frame. Before anything else, buy a frame you like. Pay maximum attention to its size, the material from which it is made, relief, etc. It should be noted that wood gives it a special elegance, while plastic looks more simple.

Choose a drawing. If it is just some color, then you need to skip this point; if you plan to make a drawing, then first draw it on a piece of paper. Cut the paper to the size of the purchased frame and make sketches.

Choose a color. Start from the photo. The color of the frame should highlight it. At the same time, do not use too bright colors, because the frame should fit into the room.

Buy paint and primer. Frames can be coated with different types: from paints with colored shades to natural wood. Each one looks different, and it’s up to you to decide which one to choose. You can also buy and use silver and gold plating. This will additionally make the gift unique. If you want to use acrylic paint, then pay attention: if you want it to shine, buy glossy, if, on the contrary, you don’t want this, buy matte.

Primer. This item is only relevant for a wooden frame. Using a brush or roller, prime the frame and give it a couple of hours to dry. After priming, the paint will adhere well and not be absorbed into the wood.

Coloring. Attach the drawn drawing (if any) and transfer it with a pencil to the frame. Next, paint in the chosen colors. Give it time to dry.

note

You can't select a frame. You can make it yourself. This will allow you to make it exactly the way you want.

Antique objects are usually associated with something expensive, noble, beautiful and refined. Antique items in specialized stores sell for a lot of money, and finding something worthwhile at flea markets takes a lot of time. But you can make unique items with a touch of antiquity yourself. For example, a picture frame covered with a light patina will become a real work of art.

You will need

  • acrylic primer;
  • gray, blue, green, white and gold acrylic paints;
  • rice paper or napkin;
  • red brass;
  • glue for tombak;
  • brush;
  • stain;
  • umber;
  • liquid wax

Instructions

Wipe the frame well to remove dust and dirt. If it's a wooden frame, prime it with acrylic primer. A polymer or plastic frame can be painted immediately. Take light gray acrylic paint and paint the frame with one coat. Wait for the layer to dry.

Take untreated rice paper (the kind of paper used for decoupage on glass, you can find it in an art store), this is a structural material that absorbs moisture very well. Make a small swab. You can also take a napkin, but it should not leave fibers on the frame. Using a swab, apply gold paint to the frame over the gray layer.

Prepare the glaze - in a small jar, make a mixture of blue, green and white acrylic paints. It's better to start with white and pour colored ones into it. Mix, but not completely, to get a heterogeneous color of several independent shades. Use a pad to coat the frame with icing. Before it dries, erase it in several places so that the gilding shows through. The first gray layer will take on a patina hue.

Instead of acrylic paint, you can use special gilding, for example, tombac “pod”, sold in the form of sheets. It looks very impressive, gives the impression of real gilding, but is cheaper. First, it is better to cover the frame with colored paint of any shade, you can take both dark and light. Paint the curly areas of the frame well. Apply special glue for tombac to ensure adhesion of the metal to the surface. Let the glue dry a little, but it should still be sticky. Place a sheet of tombak, removing the backing. Using a small brush, smooth it out and press it into the surface of the frame. Sweep away any remaining flakes that do not stick to the frame with a clean brush. Then rub natural umber into the frame profile using a piece of fabric, thus achieving an antique effect.

You can have a frame without gilding; to do this, cover it with stain, making a test stroke on the reverse side. If the color is too dark, dilute with water. Dry the frame and rub it with sandpaper in several places. Cover the surface with white water-based paint, and while it is still wet, wipe with a soft cloth. If you like the result, dry the frame and cover it with liquid wax.

Sources:

  • Gilding of the frame

Old antique things have a special charm and charm, but not everyone has “grandmother’s” furniture, and real “antique” is very expensive. There is a fairly simple way out of this situation - you need to artificially age your furniture. It won’t take much time and effort, and buying the materials you’ll need for the job won’t put a big dent in your wallet.

You will need

  • - emery cloth;
  • - soil;
  • - acrylic paint;
  • - candle;
  • - varnish for craquelure;
  • - metal brush.

Instructions

Things made of ceramics, brass, glass and forged metal are well suited for aging. Add an antique look to wood furniture. Take the item, clean it of dust and sand off the paint and varnish. It is better to take a coarse sandpaper; you can work with it faster. Wipe off any debris from the surface and clean the work area to prevent old paint particles from sticking to the new layers.

Cover the item with primer; a mixture of PVA glue and white acrylic enamel will do. Let the surface dry. Then coat the piece of furniture with brown acrylic paint. Apply two layers of this product. Leave it overnight to dry thoroughly.

Rub paraffin or wax on all edges and corners of the product. Choose the color of your future “antique” furniture. Pale pink or ivory looks good. Create your own color by mixing white paint with color. A few drops added to the jar will be enough.

The brown base should be completely hidden under layers of new paint; these layers can be from two to four. Don't forget to dry each layer well.

Take 800 grit sandpaper. Sand the areas that you rubbed with the candle. The base paint will wear off and reveal the brown. Rub it carefully so that there are no burrs. For greater authenticity, work unevenly, rub harder in some places, and in other places make only a hint of wear.

Use a soft brush to remove dust from the surface. If you want to further decorate the furniture, cut out floral patterns from napkins and stick them on the chosen place. After this, coat the entire product with matte varnish. This technique is called shabby chic.

Try aging furniture using brushing. Brush the surface with a wire brush; it will remove soft wood fibers and highlight its texture. Apply a layer of paint, its color should be dark. Without waiting for the product to dry, rub it deep into the pores and cracks of the wood. The entire structure of the wood will be clearly visible. You can use finishing varnish with different effects - metallic, pearlescent.

Items aged using the crackle technique look impressive. Apply new paint to the furniture, and after a few minutes apply a crack-creating agent (craquelure). This can be a two-component varnish or paint. When working with them, follow the instructions strictly, since there is no single recommendation for different products.

Video on the topic

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Offers ideas for those who are constantly looking for original projects to creatively recycle things lying around into something new. Today these are old frames for paintings and photographs. The unconventional use of such frames is amazing! These are organizers, hangers, key holders, flowerpots, panels, chessboards and even furniture.

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Classic - a TV in a good frame. Everything here should correspond to the chosen style.

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Watch, learn, fantasize and create your own masterpieces and give new life to old things. Good luck everyone!