Electric guitar design. Construction of a classical guitar How a guitar works

In the previous article, we clearly examined the structure of a guitar. I see no point in repeating myself in this article, because in many ways the designs of acoustic, classical and electric guitars are similar, but the electric guitar is still much more complex.

Here I will talk about the design features of the electric guitar and all the nuances that you should pay attention to when choosing an instrument.

We will again move from the head of the guitar towards the body, in order, omitting everything that we talked about in the previous article.

1. Anchor hole cover. In this picture it is represented by a triangular plastic cap with the letters “SG”. On electric guitars, access to the truss rod is most often provided from the side of the headstock; in rare cases, access is made from the side of the body; in order to change the deflection, you will have to remove the neck, as you understand, this is not very convenient, although this procedure is infrequent, all It’s much more comfortable to have access from the side of the head.

2. Pickups. Next we come to one of the most interesting parts of the electric guitar. Pickups make a big contribution to the sound of a guitar. They convert string vibrations into a signal and transmit it to an amplifier. There are many types of pickups, but this is a topic for a separate article; here we will take the two most common options: humbuckers And singles. We will also leave the pickup design for later; now we need to know that a humbucker has two coils, and a single coil has one. In sound it is expressed something like this:

A humbucker produces a big, fat and deeper sound. Those who like to play hard rock and heavier genres prefer this type of pickups, however, high-quality humbuckers perform well on a clean sound or with a slight overload, so they are also great for blues, jazz and other not heavy genres.

The single gives a ringing, bright and splashing sound. Musicians have chosen such epithets for its sound as “glass” or “twang” because of the very clear, sharp and readable sound. Most often, this type of pickup is used for light music such as rock, pop or funk. It is believed that these pickups do not get the same fat and pressure as humbuckers, which is so valued in heavy music, but there are a number of modifications, such as rail single-coils, or humbuckers in the form of a single-coil, where the coils are located not next to each other, but one under the other. Nevertheless, supporters of heavier genres for the most part still prefer humbuckers.

The pickup located closer to the neck of the guitar is called the neck (from the word Neck, translated as neck), it usually has a deeper and more voluminous sound, with a predominance of low frequencies. It is most often used to perform solo parts. The one located closer to the tailpiece is called the bridge (the tailpiece in English is called a bridge). It sounds sharper and brighter, and is most often used for riffs and rhythm parts. Often there is a third pickup between them, it is called middle (from the English word middle, translated as middle, middle). It is usually somewhere between the neck and bridge sounds. Different combinations of pickup sounds are possible, as discussed below.

3. Electronics and control. If we are already talking about the electronic part of the electric guitar, then let’s move a little from the order from right to left and talk about electronics. Let’s not intrude into the territory of soldering workers, but let’s talk about the controls that you, as a user, will have to deal with.

Switch, or as it would be more correct to say, pickup selector. Its position determines which pickup is currently working. There are three-, five-, etc. position switches. This depends on how many pickups are on board your guitar. For example, if there are two humbuckers, most likely there will be a three-position switch in the stock, in positions: 1 - neck, 2 - neck + bridge, 3 - bridge. If there are three pickups, there are more combinations, so you won’t be able to limit yourself to three positions. Sometimes guitars have complex modifications, for example, with two humbuckers there is a five-position switch, which in the second and fourth positions turns off one coil of each pickup, thereby turning them into single coils. When purchasing, make sure that the switch is working properly and that it is not loose.

Potentiometers. If you look at the picture, we will see four knobs in the lower left corner of the case. These are potentiometers. Depending on the wiring diagram, there can be any number of them, or there may not be any at all. However, most often on a guitar there is a volume and tone knob. The volume is responsible for the exhaust of the pickup, when unscrewing this knob the volume level and congestion of the signal drops. Thus, many guitarists, when using overdrive, seem to “clean” the signal from overdriven to clean by slightly turning the volume knob, rather than turning off the effect. The tone knob works like a single-band equalizer, the standard position of which is when turned all the way, and by twisting this knob back you begin to cut off the high frequencies making the sound more bassy. When choosing a guitar, be sure to twist each knob and make sure that the potentiometers do not rustle or make a strong crunch when turning.

Socket (connector). Everything is simple here: a cable is inserted into the socket, the other end of which is inserted into the amplifier. There are no pitfalls here, the main thing is that the connector is held firmly in the case and does not wobble.

4. Bridge (tailpiece). But we need to talk about this detail in more detail, because the structure of your instrument directly depends on it. The advantage and at the same time disadvantage of electric guitars over acoustic and classical ones is that, as a rule, the electric bridge is a complex design. The advantages are that the bridge on an electric guitar will allow you to adjust the scale. As a result, the notes will stay in tune not only on the open strings, which are usually used for tuning, but also throughout the entire fretboard. At least as much as possible for an equal-tempered instrument. Accordingly, the better the bridge, the more accurately your guitar can be tuned and the longer it will maintain this tune. Tailpieces are also divided into several categories, let’s take 3 main ones.

Fixed bridge. This design does not allow you to change the height of the tuning when playing, but this also guarantees the stability of the tuning. This type of bridge is exactly presented in the picture at the beginning of the article.

Standard tremolo. This type of bridge is most often found on Stratocaster and similar models. This machine can change the tuning; for this, a special lever is screwed into it (see the picture at the end of the article). However, this bridge mainly works only to lower the tuning, because its reverse side practically rests against the body.

Floyd Rose breeches and the like. This bridge can work both up and down. On guitars with this bridge, the body underneath is specially milled so that the machine can be recessed there and thereby increase the tension of the strings. In order to avoid frequent mistunings due to the active operation of the machine, on guitars with this bridge, instead of the top saddle, Top-Locks are installed, which tightly fix the strings (see the picture at the end of the article), this makes it impossible to quickly tune the guitar while playing , for this purpose, micro-tuners are installed in the Floyd Rose itself. Unfortunately, this bridge is extremely difficult for beginners to build on their own.

In general, all types of tailpieces have their advantages and disadvantages. However, the more complex the design of the bridge, the more expensive it is, so if you take a cheap guitar with a complex bridge design, you doom yourself to eternal fuss with a typewriter, out of tune and often breaking strings. Therefore, when choosing an instrument, be sure to check the bridge. It must fit tightly in the case, and all the screws in its design must rotate properly. If you have a small budget and want a guitar with a Floyd Rose or something similar, it is better to save up for a higher quality copy or take a guitar with a fixed bridge, it will save you a lot of problems.

Conclusion.

Every guitar is unique in its own way, but electric guitars come in so many different designs that it can be easy to get confused about what you need. However, all this only seems complicated, in fact, all the subtleties are comprehended in a couple of weeks, or even days, and every guitar nowadays is quite universal. When choosing your first instrument, you don’t have to be afraid to make a mistake; after several months of ownership, you will understand what suits you and what doesn’t, and you will be able to move further along the path to the instrument that is ideal for you, and the M-Guitars team will do everything possible to ensure that this path turns out to be as briefly as possible). Do not hesitate to consult our specialists, believe me, we have something to tell you.

Below are illustrations of the bridges described above.

Tremolo.

Floyd Rose.

The electric guitar first appeared in the 20th century and immediately gained popularity due to its unusual sound. Using a pickup and electrical amplification, a variety of melodies are created.

What is the structure of an electric guitar? It has three components: body, neck and head. The body contains: a tailpiece (bridge or machine), various pickups and a switch, a pickguard, tone and volume controls, a lever (tremolo), a socket for connecting a cord, and a belt fastening.

The neck consists of two parts: the neck itself and the overlay, on which the frets, marks, and nuts are located. An important detail is the anchor rod. Its purpose is to regulate the deflection of the bar.

The tuning mechanism is located on the head. The tension of the peg determines the tension of the strings. With their help, the electric guitar is tuned. In some cases, special plates are installed on the top nut that block the adjustment of the strings (top-lock). Then a mini tuning mechanism is installed in the bridge for microtuning.

Housing types

• Whole. Made from one piece of wood, The one-piece body is considered the most expensive and high-quality. Characterized by producing clear, bright sound. Glued together from several pieces of wood of the same species, the body loses the resonance of the wood, and the sound quality deteriorates. The exception is a body consisting of different types of wood. This trick ensures the production of a sharp, hard sound characteristic of heavy music.
• Hollow. The sound produced is warm, rich, soft, but quickly fades and creaks if played at high volumes.

When studying the structure of an electric guitar, it is important to pay attention to the material from which the body is made. The duration of vibration of the strings and the trajectory of movement directly depend on the type of wood. The vibration of pickups is also determined by the body material and pickguards: maple, alder, rosewood, walnut, ash.

A solo part with high frequencies will sound great on a guitar made of ash, alder, poplar, or linden. The rhythm will be clearly expressed on guitars made of mahogany, linden, and ash. A powerful rhythm part will be amazing on a guitar made of walnut, rosewood, wenge, or mahogany.

Vulture

There are several types of attachment of the neck to the body:

• Bolts. In this case, it is quite easy to change the neck if necessary, but the duration of the notes is reduced.
• Pasted. It transmits vibrations better and is used most often.
• Through. The deck consists of two halves that are attached to the neck. The sound is long and warm.
• Heelless. The advantage is easier access to high positions.

The width and thickness of the neck determine the sound style. Those who prefer fast hard music (legato, tapping) choose thin but wide necks. Adherents of the classics opt for rounded necks. Manufacturers found a compromise and offered a neck with a variable fingerboard radius. Near the soundboard it is flat, and closer to the head it is round.

The material of the neck and fingerboard is also important. It is the pad that reflects or transmits the vibrations received, therefore, ebony, maple or rosewood are used for its production. Maple provides bright sound, ebony provides density and depth, and rosewood provides warmth and softness. The neck is made of mahogany, maple or composite material. Solid, beautiful wood not only looks impressive, but also provides rigidity to hold the strings.

Anchor and scale

The anchor is installed in two ways: under the pickguard or on the back of the neck, closer to the tuning mechanism. The second option is preferable and more reliable. A special key is used for adjustment.

The scale is the distance from the tailpiece to the nut of the neck if the string is open. The scale determines the placement of frets. A distance equal to ½ scale length is between the 12th and 13th frets. And ¼ of the length is between the 5th and 6th frets. Depending on the length, a different sound is produced: melodious, warm, soft or hard, sharp, aggressive.

Pickups

The role of pickups is to convert string vibrations into an electrical signal. The sound quality directly depends on the quality of the pickup. They are produced in two types: electromagnetic and piezoelectric. Electromagnetic are classified into passive and active, as well as Single and Hambacker. Passive pickups do not require additional power, while active ones are powered by a battery. Therefore, the sound of the latter is much better.

Single coils (have one coil) have a clear and bright sound, but can produce noise. Therefore, manufacturers found a solution: single-coils with a humbker effect. They provide clear sound without extraneous noise and are used in jazz and blues. Humbuckers (have two coils) produce a powerful, but dim sound, devoid of low frequencies, and when overloaded they sound clear and aggressive.

Piezoelectric pickups come in the form of a small disk or narrow strip that fits under the bridge. You can install it under each string, achieving unusual effects. And to eliminate noise, it is advisable to use a preamplifier buffer.

Bridges and Switches

Bridges are available with or without a tremolo system. The machine (tremolo system) allows you to lower and raise the pitch of notes directly on the guitar using a special lever, but “eats up” the sustain. In this case, a system of micro-adjustment of pegs is used. Bridges without a tremolo have a smoother sound and are less likely to go out of tune.

If the pickup is located closer to the tailpiece, it is called a bridge pickup. Closer to the neck is the neck. A special switch allows you to use the bridge pickup for soloing, and the neck pickup for playing chords.

A three or five position switch is used. The positions activate different combinations of pickups: bridge, middle, and near the neck.

Now, knowing the structure of an electric guitar, it is much easier to start learning and enjoy high-quality music.

The structure of an electric guitar using the example of a Fender Stratocaster

Electric guitar neck(1) is practically no different from acoustics and consists of two parts: the neck itself and the fingerboard, held together with glue. Let us remind you that the fretboard is the upper part of the fretboard on which the frets are located. On headstock(3) are also pegs(6), and inside the neck there is anchor, whose task is still the same - to prevent the strings from bending the neck. The neck can be glued to the soundboard, or it can be attached with screws (this is one of the differences from acoustics).

Like an acoustic guitar, an electric guitar has a neck, body, strings, pegs... But the body of an electric guitar is not at all the same as an acoustic one, but flat.

Electric guitar body(2) Can be made entirely of wood, or hollow.

Hollow body guitars have a warm, rich sound and are commonly used in jazz, blues and country. The disadvantages of these guitars are the rapid decay of sound and the appearance of a creaking sound when played at high volumes.

The body of solid body guitars is made of either one or several pieces of wood, usually of the same type, that are glued together. The more places the body is glued, the worse the sound will be due to the loss of wood resonance in these places. The exception is some guitar models, the body of which is deliberately made of different types of wood to improve the sound. Such guitars have a sharper and more aggressive sound, which is most suitable for playing heavy music.

Now about what fundamentally distinguishes an acoustic guitar from an electric guitar.

Bridge or machine(7) is the device by which the strings are attached to the soundboard. There are two types of bridges: with and without tremolo (in the picture there is a bridge with tremolo). Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Bridges with tremolo system is a movable stand that is driven by a lever (10), which allows you to change the tension of all strings and create a vibrato effect even with open strings. Typically, such machines are installed on Stratocasters and similar instruments. Such machines allow you to change the pitch of the sound by one and a half to two tones, which greatly diversifies the sound.

Bridges without tremolo Suitable for telecaster and semi-acoustic guitars. Their design is even simpler, the number of parts is reduced to a minimum, due to which guitars equipped with such bridges hold tuning better, sound more melodious, and have fewer problems when you need to quickly change strings.

For beginners, it is better to choose guitars equipped with a machine with a simple tremolo (when the machine only works to lower the sound) or without it at all.

Under the strings on the body of the electric guitar there are sensors - pickups that convert the vibrations of the string into an electrical signal. The pickup is a very important part of the guitar; the sound produced by the guitar depends on their type and quality.

Pickups There are two types: singles (9) and humbuckers (8). Singles have a clean and transparent sound. These pickups are used when playing blues and country styles. The disadvantage associated with the design of such pickups is a lot of extraneous noise and a strong background when playing with distortion. Although now they are releasing split singles, which have significantly reduced noise.

Humbuckers suppress extraneous noise and are more suitable for playing through guitar effects. These sensors have a more powerful and rich sound. Due to these qualities, humbuckers are more suitable for heavy types of music.

Manufacturers combine both types of pickups in different sequences and thus achieve a variety of instrument sounds. In the description of an electric guitar, you can see something like S-S-H or H-S-H - thus indicating the sequence in which the pickups S - single, H - humbucker are installed on the guitar.

Pickups can be passive or active. Active sensors have a wider frequency range and a weaker output signal. To enhance it, a preamplifier powered by the crown is built into the guitar. Active pickups, like passive ones, come in both single-coil and humbucker pickups.

To switch between pickups, a switch (11) is installed on the guitar, making one or two of the pickups installed on the guitar active. By switching between pickups you can change the sound your guitar produces. Switches are often installed that turn on two adjacent pickups and thus create new sounds.

Also on the body of the electric guitar, as a rule, there are volume (13) and tone (12) controls.

Electric guitars differ from each other both in appearance and internal structure, but they still contain a number of basic elements, without which a musical instrument cannot be called a guitar, be it a Yamaha, Fender or any other guitar. Let's take a closer look at these components:

1. The neck is a long block of wood on which there is a flat fingerboard, and metal saddles are applied to it. It may vary in length and shape in each electric guitar depending on the model.
2. An anchor rod is used to prevent the bar from breaking, since it is subjected to extreme pressure.
3. Pegs - used to regulate the tension of the strings (tighten them or relax them). They are located on the headstock and can be single, paired, closed or open.
4. The zero fret is located between the fingerboard itself and its head, made of high-strength plastic.
5. Frets are made of steel and differ in wear resistance and color. If the strings in a guitar deteriorate faster than anything else, then the frets take second place in terms of wear. Therefore, when choosing an electric guitar, you should pay special attention to the quality of the frets.
6. Markers are intended for the convenience of the musician’s orientation on the fretboard. They can be applied to it either with dots or with other unique symbols.
7. Pickups are devices that help modify the vibrations of metal strings into electrical signals.
8. Pickup switch - designed to switch from one pickup to another (as if combining sounds), thereby creating a unique new sound of an electric guitar.
9. Controls – used to adjust the volume and timbre of the sound.
10. Bridge or tailpiece - designed to attach strings directly to the body of an electric guitar. Helps change the pitch of the sound and create a tremolo sound.
11. A socket for connecting an electric cable is required on any electric guitar.
12. Guitar body. Most often it is solid, but in rare cases it can be glued together from several parts. Of course, a solid body is considered to be of higher quality, since it produces a better sound, but it all also depends on what kind of music you are going to play on your electric guitar. For example, if the body consists of several components, the sound will be sharp and aggressive, which is why such instruments are often used to create heavier music. It differs from the body of an acoustic guitar in that it can be either hollow or solid inside. A cover plate is attached to the body itself to hide the guitar’s electrical components and for a more attractive appearance.
13. Each guitar also comes with strap holders. They are located on the back of the case. They will be especially useful for musicians when performing on stage.

An important part of any electric guitar is the electrical component. As a rule, it is hidden from prying eyes inside its body.

These components of the guitar are quite enough to make it comfortable to play. But do not forget that for each style of music it is necessary to purchase additional equipment that will make the sound more pleasant for both the performer and the listeners. Therefore, choose a guitar based on the main parts, but at the same time pay attention to additional components.

Guitar neck

In fact, these are the head, neck, pickguard, heel, as well as frets and mechanics, so we will discuss the components of the neck in order.

Blanks

To assemble material for the entire neck of a classical guitar, you need to buy blanks for:

• Headstock overlays;
• Heads and necks. Usually the whole board is sold with dimensions 650x85x22mm;
• Heels;
• Overlays.

Guitar head - Head

This is everything above the nut (the string distributor on the fingerboard). Guitar head - consists of two parts: the head body and the guitar headplate.

The shape of the headstock end is actually a guitar maker's calling card, visible much further than the label inside the body. Craftsmen also often make edging along the contour. A second pad can be glued to the back of the head.

Blank

Usually they sell a single blank for the head and neck of a guitar, 650x85x22mm, which is sawn at an angle. The photo shows how a single workpiece is sawed, part of the future head is turned over and glued. The seam that is created will be covered with a head cover.

In fact, to make a headstock you need a slab of wood with dimensions of 190-210x80-85x17-23mm. The head can be glued together from two halves, the seam will run in the center and can be covered with overlays.

Guitar headplate

This is a thin plate of dense wood that we see on the front side of the head. This is usually the wood of the guitar body. The overlay gives a beautiful appearance and also strengthens the head. When gluing the guitar head to the neck in a classic way, the seam runs right along the front side, which the pickguard perfectly hides.

Blank

This is a wooden plate with dimensions 200x85x5mm. In pure size, the thickness of the lining is about 3mm. The overlay can be purchased separately, but the overlay can also be made from scraps remaining from the bottom. The required two pieces remain at the waist. The halves are simply glued together symmetrically end-to-end or through an ornament.

Tuner mechanics, tuning machines - Tuners, Machine heads, Tuning machines

There are pegs for nylon and metal strings. For nylon strings, a plastic sleeve is pressed onto the tuning machine shaft.

You can distinguish pegs on a single bar, i.e. a bar for three strings is screwed on each side of the head; and pegs for each string, i.e. The mechanism for each string is screwed separately onto its base. The split version is convenient for making seven-string guitars.

Nut - Nut

The support of the strings on the neck of the guitar. It is usually made from bone. There are options using special synthetic materials and dense wood.

Blank

It is enough to simply prepare the bone yourself to make thresholds, but you can also buy an already prepared blank from the desired material. The blank is a rectangular block with dimensions corresponding to your neck, i.e.:

Fingerboard, Fretboard

A piece of wood into which the frets of a guitar are driven. An important requirement for the surface is resistance to abrasion. Everyone has seen the pits between the frets on soft wood fingerboards. The overlay also helps strengthen the neck. Accordingly, the material of the lining should be as durable as possible. The best choice is ebony, which is widely used on classical guitars.

Blank

The maximum width of the workpiece is determined by the final width of the pad at the sound hole. The usual blank for a classical guitar for the pickguard is a board with dimensions 520x75-80x9-10mm. If you cut a workpiece from a larger piece of wood, then you can start from the pure dimensions of the pickguard and take into account that the width at the top saddle in its pure form is about 51-53 mm - the workpiece can be wedge-shaped, and the length of the pickguard is determined by the scale length of the guitar. The thickness of the finished lining is from 6-8 mm and can vary in length.

Neck

It is usually made from mahogany or special cedar; maple and other species are also used. The neck of the neck is its body. Often the neck is made of two halves with dense wood glued in the middle. This is done to strengthen the neck of the bar, and this technique also allows you to use two narrow blanks.

Blank

For sale is a board with dimensions 650x85-90x20mm. Approximately 200mm for the head and the rest for the neck. The neck itself can be one piece of wood, or several. As a rule, these are two large parts and a narrow insert in the middle.

What should it be width of the neck in the workpiece. For a classical guitar, the gluing of the neck and head extends to the middle of the length of the head, which is approximately 75mm. Accordingly, after gluing the halves, the minimum dimensions of the package are:

• The width of the 12th fret can be 65mm,
• width at the top sill - 75mm,
• thickness 20mm.

Neck Length:

• this is the part that will be in the body, for example, a dovetail tenon;
• main part of the neck;
• and the part that is the body of the head.

Heel, Heel - Heel

It is made of the same material as the neck of the neck. It can be made from a single piece, or it can be assembled from pieces. Spanish guitar manufacturing technology assumes that the guitar's claw and heel are one piece. If the claw and the heel of the neck are different parts, then they are connected to each other using a tenon connection. There is also a fastening with four caps.

Blank

It is clear that the dimensions of the workpiece must correspond to the final shape of the heel. It makes no sense to recommend any sizes, since it is very easy to get them yourself.

Frets or fret nuts - Fret

Frets* or fret nuts are a metal profile. Material: nickel silver, stainless steel, brass. There are different sizes of the fret head itself in terms of height and width. An important characteristic of the fret is the correct shape of the point of contact with the string and the height of the fret.

Blank

Frets are sold cut into pieces or in coils.

* - Frets are the spaces between the saddles, but at the layman level and when searching on the Internet, it is the word frets that is used. This error will often be repeated on the pages of our resource. So take the phrase “carefully hit the fret with a hammer” with this amendment.

Guitar deck -Top, Soundboard

The most acoustically important part of the guitar. The top material is usually spruce or cedar. The deck must be made with the utmost care. Increased accuracy is also required because the soundboard is the face of the guitar - all defects will be clearly visible. The soundboard consists of two parts, the seam runs exactly in the middle of the guitar.

The material for making guitar tops must be well-seasoned and radial, i.e. in all three planes, the layers of wood should go along the dimensions of the workpiece. Preparing such material is a separate profession with its own sacraments.

Blank

It consists of two parts - these are two thin plates of wood. These halves grew up next to each other. Usual sizes for blanks for a classical guitar (530x210x5mm) x 2 pieces

Guitar Springs - Brace (top)

The most important characteristic is the radius of the tree (). The spring of the fan system of a classical guitar is quite small, however, due to the fact that the layers of the spring must sit on the soundboard, the soundboard itself is not suitable for springs. Although, if you want to install low springs, no more than 4.5mm, then the thickness of the deck may be enough.

Blank

These are planks of fine-grained and super radial spruce or cedar wood. If you are cutting springs from a large workpiece, then use the method of determining the direction of the layers by splitting at least once. Along the plane of this chip it is already possible to saw off the material smoothly.

Rips

Body and back rips are radial spruce, as a rule, and there are also various options for other types of guitars. Mahogany can be used. The blank is a strip with a cross section of 20x10mm. The length is determined by the gluing location and your body.

Deck footer

On the deck, the direction of the footer layers goes along its length. Used to reinforce different areas of the soundboard, usually under the bridge and near the sound hole.

Cutting blanks for decks work well. In the photo, rectangles indicate schematically the areas of the deck where you can cut out the footer you need.

Bottom footer

This footer strengthens the gluing of the two parts of the bottom. Its peculiarity is the transverse direction of the layers relative to the seam being strengthened. Those. The footer can also be scraps from the deck, but you just need to cut a strip from its end. When the footer for the deck is trimmed from the sides. (Picture just above.)

Also, special liners for repairing deck cracks are also more likely to be pieces of footer for the bottom, since their layers run perpendicular to the layers of the deck.

Stand - Bridge

The bridge material must be strong so that it does not bend easily under the tension of the strings. Main material is rosewood. Ebony is also used.

Blank

A block with dimensions of 210x35x12mm The stand itself may have smaller dimensions, so if you are cutting from a large piece, then take this into account - a standard workpiece with a decent margin.

Saddle - Saddle

An excellent material for making a guitar bridge is bone. The saddle greatly affects the sound. Therefore, it must fit tightly into the groove of the stand. You can buy material for the thresholds, or you can make it yourself from bone.

Shells - Sides

Can be made from a variety of dense materials. As a rule, the material of the shells coincides with the material of the bottom. The shells are bent by heating and wetting the wood. The tree then acquires the ability to bend and retain this shape after cooling.

Blank

Two thin long boards. Dimensions 2pcs x (750-800x100-120x4-5.5mm)

Upper dumpling - Neck block, Head block

In the Spanish version, the upper dumpling is a continuation of the fingerboard. Also traditional is the dumpling - a separate part into which the fingerboard is glued.

Blank

In the Spanish version, this is a continuation of the neck and heel. In the case of a separate dumpling and heel - these are two different parts, then the workpiece is 100x80-60x25-40mm The run-up is large, since the craftsmen do it differently. Different materials are used.

Lower ringlet - tailblock

This claw connects the shells together and gives additional rigidity to the body in the lower part. The designs are different, both large dumplings and those that actually degenerate to the footer. The workpiece is determined by the appearance and dimensions of the body.

Counter shells (hoops) - Linings

Counter-pistons are involved in imparting rigidity to the body of the guitar, and also strengthen the gluing between the soundboards and shells. There are several types of counter shells:

Blank

It all depends on your design option. You can also purchase a ready-made product. The material also varies; there can be either cedar caps or a solid strip of dense wood.

Bottom (Lower deck) - Back

The bottom of the guitar greatly influences the timbre of the instrument. When talking about the material of a guitar, then we mean the bottom and sides of the guitar. There are a lot of materials used. There are so many dense rocks and so many options. Traditional materials for making guitars are cypress for flamenco and rosewood for classical guitar.

Blanks

In fact, the same blanks as for the guitar soundboard - 2 pieces x (530x210x4-6mm). only from dense material. Also the kit on the bottom is two parts. They also grew side by side and are as symmetrical as possible with respect to future gluing.

Rosette

The guitar rosette is an ornament made from pieces of multi-colored wood. Making a socket is a whole task. You can buy a ready-made socket. Usually this is a ring with a gap. which will fall under the guitar pickguard. The thickness will be about 1mm. You can find thicker ones.

You can create your own unique rosette yourself using multi-colored wood and mother-of-pearl.

Bindings

The edging itself, in addition to its visual effect, also has very specific functions. It covers the end of the decks from various types of influences, both mechanical and moisture. Participates in the overall strength of the guitar body. An ornament or some other decoration (purfling) may also be embedded next to the edging.