Master class on decoupage on fabric: Painting on canvas with imitation of oil painting. Master class “Decoupage on canvas Let’s start our step-by-step master class with a photo on decoupage on canvas

To add sophistication to the interior, spending money is not at all necessary; you can decoupage the painting yourself. And since you decoupage the painting completely with your own hands, you will end up with a homemade panel that will become not only a piece of furniture, but also a pleasant gift for your family.

Origin

The origins of decoupage lead to the Middle Ages. Back in the 15th century in Germany, furniture was decorated with cut-out pictures, and then the surface was covered with several layers of varnish. With the help of such appliqué, furniture makers imitated expensive attributes and sold them at a high price; such products are still expensive today.

About materials

The basis for decoupage can be a wooden or ceramic, metal or glass, fabric or plastic object. For example, you can decorate photographs, paintings, a tray, a vase, etc. An important condition is the smooth surface of the source material.

Consumables are:

  • Professional glue may only be required when working with a heat gun. In other cases, you can use regular PVA.
  • It is better to choose acrylic paints. They do not smell, dry quickly, do not yellow and are easily corrected in the “raw” state.
  • In this technique, it is advisable to use decoupage varnishes (matte or semi-gloss), which protect the image from mechanical influences.
  • The canvas is decorated with colored paper, stones and rhinestones.
  • Borrow images You can directly from paper napkins, clippings from books, magazines, postcards.

Decoupage paintings using napkins

This technique can be used in two ways. First– attach the top layer of the napkin to the prepared canvas and cover it with a mixture of glue and water. This method requires precision and is not suitable for beginners. Therefore, it is better to use a simplified technique.

Preparation

Before starting work, you need to prepare the frame, or rather artificially age it. You can make decoupage with your own hands from a photo frame or order a base from any workshop. You need to cover the surface of the frame with acrylic paint, wait until it dries and apply craquelure varnish. After it is absorbed, you should apply gold-colored paint.

Creating the Foundation

Next stage – creating a canvas from light fabric. In the finished product, the napkin will be transparent, but on a dark background the image may be muffled. The material should be cut to the shape of the frame, that is, attach plastic glass and cut out the fabric with a margin of one centimeter on each side. The resulting rectangle should be glued to the glass. In this case, glue should be applied to the fabric and plastic. The canvas should be coated with several layers of acrylic primer and allowed to dry.

Important! Before starting work, any surface other than wood must be cleaned with your own hands, that is, wiped with acetone, alcohol or dishwashing detergent.

Transferring a picture

First you need to attach a napkin to the fabric and cut out the picture along the contours of the frame. Then the cut out image should be placed face down on the file and glue diluted with water should be applied to it with a flat brush. Once wet, the napkin will begin to stretch. That's why brush movements should be from the center of the picture to the edges. It is very important at this stage to straighten the picture from “wrinkles” with your own hands. Only after this can you attach the image file to the canvas and carefully remove the transparent film.

The edges of the napkin should be well soaked with glue. In this decoupage technique, the ends of the napkin hanging from the edges of the canvas are inevitable. You can cut only wet, well-soaked ends, otherwise you can damage the picture.

When the glue has dried, you should tint individual elements of the image or the entire picture with acrylic paints. Final stage – coat the canvas with decoupage varnish and insert the canvas with the image into the frame.

Decoupage paintings from postcards

Using this technique, you can create a three-dimensional painting with your own hands in just a few minutes.

For this you will need:

  • manicure and paper scissors;
  • white double-sided tape;
  • thick cardboard for the base.

For example, let's take two identical postcards depicting urban architecture. On the first one you need to cut out the sky along the contour, and on the second - houses. Each of the cut out parts represents a separate layer of the painting. The closer it is, the smaller the details should be. In this case, these are flower pots.

The ends of all cut out parts should be made dark using a felt-tip pen.

Strips of tape should be attached to the thick cardboard base. You should also place a square of tape on the back of each cut out piece.

Decoupage cards from napkins

A homemade postcard can be an excellent gift for family and friends. It is made in just a few minutes with your own hands using the decoupage technique using glue, cardboard, napkins and scissors.

It is better to choose thick and colored cardboard. The finished product will have a transparent napkin. To avoid having to finish painting the picture with paints later, it is better to use a colored base.

In this example, we will consider a more complex decoupage technique, that is, applying glue directly to a napkin. Since the canvas is not large in size, even beginners can cope with this task.

At the first stage, you need to separate the top layer of the napkin and cut out the design to the desired size. Next, you need to carefully coat a piece of napkin with glue on the front side so that it sticks tightly to the cardboard. After the drawing has dried, you can draw the outline of the image with acrylic paint of a contrasting color.

Foamiran and decoupage panels (2 videos)


Artist and clothing designer from Poland. Anna was inspired to create the painting by memories from her childhood: an old attic, huge hanging cobwebs, old yellowed newspapers. This mood is successfully conveyed through the “aged photograph.”

To repeat something similar with your own hands, we prepare the following materials: primed canvas (paint with several layers of white acrylic paint), a beautiful motif on rice paper, old newspapers or newspaper magazines, glue (for decoupage or PVA), pencil, ruler, scissors, acrylic paints , patina, varnish, lighter or matches, sponge or dry rag.

We take several pages of paper and knead them very carefully with our hands so that many wrinkles appear to create an interesting effect. On the canvas, with a pencil, mark the width of the frame, which we will cover with prepared paper. PVA glue is suitable for this work.

We tear the crumpled paper into pieces and glue it along the edge of the canvas. We press the paper against the base, but do not smooth out the wrinkles. Leave until completely dry. Then we cover the surface with cream-colored paint.

After drying, cover the middle of the surface, where the rice paper motif will be placed, with gold acrylic. You can take gold powder and mix it with a small amount of decoupage glue. But while the gold acrylic is not dry, remove excess paint with a rag or sponge. This will create a beige surface with a golden tint.

Cut out the motif you like from rice paper and burn the edges with a lighter (you can just gently use a match). Glue the prepared motif to the canvas.

The next step is to patina the image. For this purpose we use a dark brown patina. Apply it with a sponge in some places, remove the excess.

Next, we create a greenish coating. For this we use acrylic paint.
We select a color that would resemble natural patina. We wet the sponge in the resulting shade and move it along the frame so that in some places there is more paint, and in others the sponge is semi-dry.

labels

How I make labels. Kostikova Natalya Khabarovsk, Khabarovsk region, Russia


I am often asked. HOW DO I MAKE LABELS? This master class will answer this question.



To work you need to have:

1. A sheet of thermal transfer paper (I’ll explain it below)

2. Printer

3. Ruler

4. Stationery knife

5. Satin ribbon 15-20mm wide

6. Ironing board

7. A piece of cotton fabric



Difficulty on a five-point scale -1



1. First, a little about what transfer paper is. The paper consists of two layers: the first is the paper itself on which the ink from the printer is applied, the second is the protective layer, which is removed after heat treatment. This fabric makes it possible to transfer any printed image onto the fabric. There are two main types of paper: the first allows you to transfer an image only to white and light fabric, the second - to any other, including black. In this master class I use the first option, since the color of my ribbons is pastel shades. The operation of the two options is slightly different, and this description only applies to this option. I use paper from the famous manufacturer Lomond, you've probably met it before. Perhaps you saw this particular paper, but didn’t understand why it was needed :-)

This is what the cover of thermal transfer paper looks like when transferred to white fabric


And this is how it is translated into black

Such a product is produced not only by Lomond, and I accept options for using paper from other manufacturers.



2. The first thing we do after we have dealt with the paper is print an image onto it. Naturally, the main thing is not to confuse which side - this is important!

And one more important point when using paper for light fabric, the image must be printed as a mirror image. Something like that.



3. Here are a few images that you can print out on an A4 sheet to get blanks for labels indicating that your product is exclusively handmade :-)
Just click on the image and it will open in good resolution.

4. Cut printed labels


5. You will need a satin ribbon 15-20mm wide


6. Place the cut labels face down on the tape.


7. Covering them with a cotton cloth, iron them for about two minutes. This is necessary so that the labels are slightly attached to the tape. The entire process of gluing labels with an iron is best done indoors, where you can then open a window.



8. Remove the fabric and iron for another five minutes

  • a piece of fiberboard approximately 39 by 39 cm.
  • PVA glue
  • A piece of canvas approximately 38 by 38 cm.
  • white acrylic or latex paint
  • napkin with one large pattern
  • acrylic lacquer
  • two small screws and a string (to hang our work)
  • ceiling MOLDING made of polystyrene for the frame (similar to a ceiling plinth, only it is attached not to the corner but to the ceiling itself, so one side is flat)
  • glue gun

Preparation method

  1. I coated a piece of fiberboard with PVA glue, placed the canvas on top, ironed it thoroughly with my hands, coated it with more glue on top and dried it. Primed with white paint and dried (photo 1)
  2. The hardest part is gluing the napkin. Under no circumstances should you glue directly to the canvas, it is very difficult!!! (checked). In my opinion, spraying a napkin with a spray bottle and ironing it to stretch it is also useless. In any case, after this procedure, my napkin became almost smaller in size than it was originally. Since I haven’t seen large files yet, I secured two thick plastic bags with tape (files can also be used).
  3. So, place the bags on a flat surface, with a napkin on top, face DOWN. (photo 2)
  4. We take the most delicate brush (preferably a synthetic fan), dip it in water and start from the middle (!) to blot our napkin in a circle. It fits well, we just need to help a little, lifting it a little by the edges and lowering it. This way we get to the corners. (photo 3, 4, 5)
  5. Coat the primed canvas with diluted PVA glue. We turn the oilcloth and napkin over onto the canvas and lay it flat IMMEDIATELY. Without removing the oilcloth, we expel all the air, ironing it with our hands from the center to the edges. Very carefully remove the oilcloth, coat the top with diluted glue with a flat brush, barely touching the surface of the napkin. Let's dry it. (photo 6)
  6. Let's make a frame. We cut the molding with a paper knife at an angle of 45 degrees into pieces of the required size. Glue it to the fiberboard and canvas with a glue gun. (photo 7).
  7. If there are any flaws in the corners of the frame, you can putty it and smooth it out carefully with a sharp knife.
  8. All that remains is to cover everything (both the frame and the napkin) with acrylic varnish in several layers. Even before this, I diluted a little bronze powder in acrylic varnish and touched the middle part of the frame with a sponge.
  9. We screw in two self-tapping screws from the back, attach a rope, hang it on the wall and admire the work done. (photo 8,9)
  10. Well, who will now say that we are not artists!!!?

Additional Information

If you get a napkin with a large pattern, do not rush to divide it into pieces and paste it over something, try to make a small masterpiece out of it (actually not so small - the size of the finished product with a frame 4 cm wide was 40 by 40 cm! ).

But there are also napkins with two drawings 16.5 by 33 cm...

The master class was conducted by Irina Savosina.



I don’t know how to draw at all, but I have long dreamed of a painting on canvas. Not finding napkins with a suitable motif, I bought a large decoupage card with a view of the river.

Materials:
decoupage card 20x30 cm;
fiberboard sheet 30x40 cm;
2 slats 1x2x40 cm;
2 slats 1x2x26 cm;
canvas for painting 40x50 cm;
hacksaw;
iron;
PVA glue;
roller with foam attachment;
acrylic transparent semi-gloss varnish;
acrylic paint in white, beige and blue colors;
small flat glue brush;
paint brush;
wide container (basin) with water;

Furniture stapler;
nails.

Preparing the base.

I sawed off a 30x40 cm piece from a fiberboard sheet. I nailed four slats around the perimeter of the part with small nails. I ironed the canvas well. I coated the smooth side of the fiberboard with thick PVA glue and immediately glued the canvas without touching the surface to be pasted with my hands so that stains would not appear. At the same time, the canvas was pulled with force by the edges. I gave it two hours to dry. I coated the slats with glue, folded the edges of the canvas and pressed them.

1


Then I additionally attached the canvas to the slats with a stapler.

2


The front side of the blank and the ends were painted with white acrylic using a roller.

3


It is better not to use a brush at this stage - it will clog the texture of the canvas with paint.

Landscape from a napkin.

The decoupage card motif was torn off at the edges so that they turned out uneven. Placed it in a container of water for 30 seconds. until completely wet. But you can’t keep it there for a long time - with further work, the paper will spread! I placed the center of the motif on the canvas and quickly began to press with a brush with PVA glue, expelling air bubbles. I left it to dry for a day. The white field was painted over with beige acrylic.

4


The edges of the card were not very evenly brushed with blue paint. I applied one coat of varnish using a roller. The imitation of the painting turned out to be excellent - even under the map you can see the canvas texture.

5


On a note.
If you use the same color of paint, but with a time difference of even half an hour, then the brush or roller must be packed in a plastic bag and tied. You can continue painting even after a day - the tool will not dry out.