Aging of a plastic cross stitch frame. How to age a picture and photo frame

If you are a fan of vintage style, then you probably already have a lot of interesting “antique” pieces in the interior of your home. And if you used to buy all these little things for your home, now you can make them yourself! Frames for photos or embroidered paintings, placed in such “antique” frames, will look simply gorgeous! In this master class, Krestik shares the idea of ​​decorating a finished plastic mirror frame. In addition, we will teach you how to make panels with imitation embroidery using a simple Decoupage technique.

You will need:

• plastic frame,
• a piece of fabric (burlap),
• napkin for decoupage,
• acrylic paints,
• several brushes: for varnish, a thin brush for painting, a wide brush for the background,
• a piece of sponge,
• water-based acrylic paint,
• PVA glue,
• acrylic lacquer,
• sandpaper,
• cardboard.

Sand the plastic frame with coarse sandpaper. This is necessary so that the paint lays down well and sticks to the surface.

Then, brushing off the dust with a damp cloth, wipe the entire front surface with nail polish remover. This is how we prepare the surface for decoration and remove excess shine.

Then we cover the entire frame with PVA glue. Repeat the primer 2-3 times with intermediate drying. The first time we go over the protruding parts, the second time we cover small parts and recesses, and the third time we cover the entire workpiece with a thick layer.

Now you can start painting. Paint the frame with white acrylic paint (in several passes, as in the previous stage). If the PVA layer has not yet completely dried, then cracks, the so-called craquelures, will appear on the surface of the paint as it dries.

This effect can be specially achieved by applying a layer of a special crackle composition under the paint.

Gently sand the painted surface with sandpaper. Brush off the dust with a wide, clean brush.

At this point, the preparatory stage of creating a vintage frame with your own hands is completed. Let's get started.

Let's iron the burlap. Prime with liquid PVA glue and leave to dry.

We cut out an oval base from cardboard, onto which we then glue the fabric.

You can secure the burlap with double-sided tape. Or glue it with glue and iron it with a hot iron through a sheet of newspaper.

Trim the edges of the fabric. Cut out a motif from a napkin. Using a pencil, draw an outline on the burlap.

We will paint the figure inside the outline with white paint, so the image will remain bright. If you glue the drawing directly onto the fabric, the colors will fade and the image will merge with the background.

Apply a napkin to the painted outline. Apply a drop of glue and, carefully adjusting it with your fingers or a brush, disperse the glue according to the motif. We go from the center to the edge, getting rid of air bubbles and excess glue.

When the glue dries, draw the details of the picture with a contour of a suitable color.

We trim the edges of the fabric and cut out the second piece from cardboard - this will be the backdrop of the picture.

Glue the backdrop to the decoupled piece of fabric.

Now let's put everything into the frame.

At this stage, you can once again draw the details of the design on the fabric. In this case, the contours are additionally outlined with black paint.

Using a hard old brush, we pick up black paint and go over the protruding parts of the frame, painting over the recesses in the relief.

1. We do not prime the frame with anything, or we apply one thin layer of primer, we don't sand it out. This picture will be slightly aged, and I need a surface with the texture of untreated wood so that the patination composition is retained in it.
2. Paint the frame in the desired color (1-2 layers). I chose the color from the very motif - it’s milky white and here and there, although it’s not visible, there are light yellow stripes (about uneven painting of the surface, see here, how to evenly apply primer, paint, varnish - here).
3. Diluted with water a mixture of brown paint and a drop of black(the shade can be changed, make it more brown or more black, or yellowish-brown; you can make it more or less dark; the saturation will depend on the amount of water). And we apply this dark water to the frame, Wash immediately with a dry or slightly damp cloth. If the surface of the wood is uneven, you will get this texture:

4. Cover with matte varnish in 2 layers.

We get a stylish picture, which I already showed in the previous master class:

Frame 2. Artificial abrasions plus dry brush aging.

Here I have chosen a marine motif, there are “antique nautical things” on the chest of drawers, so the frame should match the motif. Our motif determines the style of the frame, so decoupaging a painting always takes less time than decorating a frame for this painting. So, here is the picture itself (there was no frame yet):

There were two options - abrasions on a candle or “on a wash”, but I chose abrasions on a wash, because on our motif the abrasions are more reminiscent of “wash” rather than “candle”))))))

Let's try to repeat this aging on the frame.

1. We paint the frame brown (you can prime it, you don’t have to prime it, that’s fine). Not even brown, but as brown-earthy as in the motif. Let it dry and you can varnish it (I didn’t cover it).
2. Mix blue as in the motif (keep in mind that acrylic darkens slightly when drying), paint one layer on one side.

After a few minutes, when the paint has dried, With a slightly damp cloth we begin to wash in those places where there should be abrasions. If you erased more than necessary, no big deal, you can re-touch it. If you have not yet watched the video on the box with abrasions on the launder, watch it.

It turns out something like this:

1. When all parties are ready, take art bristles with white paint and in dry brush technique we go over the entire surface, bleaching quite strongly her.

Working with a dry brush is as follows:

• Take a small amount of paint on the brush;
• Wipe off almost all the paint on a napkin so that the brush is almost dry;
• We sweep over the surface - and the remaining paint clings to surface unevenness or simply leaves intermittent stripes, as if dusting the surface. We always work from the edge of the workpiece, without leaving clear brush marks.

Here on the frame I poked it further with a brush, leaving white spots. It turned out very picturesque :)

1. Two layers of varnish - and sea ​​panel can be hung on the wall. It’s good if there’s a steering wheel hanging nearby, you can even do it without decoupage or a bell, and the walls are made of logs, there’s sand and seaweed on the floor, and instead of a bed there’s an old wooden boat (I was daydreaming about something)…

Frame 3. Antique baguette for a still life with flowers.

1. I took as a basis plastic frame with a beautiful baroque relief(and she was originally white!!! Horror!!!) We prime the plastic 1 layer of aerosol varnish.
2. Cover it with gold paint in a certain number of layers, depending on the hiding power of our paint, you can first coat it with ocher, then fewer layers will be needed.
3. After the gold dries, we take bitumen varnish(for lovers of scented products) or any patination agent, or even black-brown paint diluted with varnish. I don’t like scented products, but I really like bitumen varnish, so I’ll show you based on that.

We put on gloves (otherwise you will walk around with black nails for 3 days, and then make excuses that you decoupaged picture frames), Using a sponge, apply bitumen varnish to the entire surface, especially in all the depressions of the relief. With a sponge - because you can simply throw it away later.

4. Immediately wipe off all excess from the relief with a dry cloth, leaving the indentations patinated.

This aging happened on a flat surface:

5. We work especially carefully on small elements:

And erase here more carefully:

1. Dry for 24 hours according to the instructions (if it is bitumen varnish or bitumen). The rest dries faster.
2. Let's cover this dark matter non-aqueous varnish(according to the instructions, bitumen varnish is coated with shellac, but, as always, I prefer aerosol).
3. Additionally, you can walk gold wax on the protruding parts of the relief for more shine.
4. Everything can be hung in a baroque interior (meh... we need to change the furniture... and wallpaper... and at the same time paint the ceiling with frescoes... oh!)

Sometimes the interior style requires the use of certain items in it. For example, Provence, vintage, and shabby chic styles involve decorating the interior with various “antique” items. This can be aged furniture: tables, chairs, chests of drawers. Or decorative items: candlesticks, wall clocks, mirror frames, etc. And you don’t have to buy these things; you can transform those that are already in your home. Let's look at how to do this using the example of aging.

How to age a picture and photo frame

What you need to age a wooden frame:

- a simple wooden frame;
- brown acrylic paint used as a base;
- white acrylic paint;
- acrylic craquelure varnish;
- brush.

Step 1. We paint the frame with base paint.

The base paint is needed to clearly highlight the cracks, so you need to choose contrasting colors of the base paint and the paint that will crack. In our case, brown color was chosen as the base, that is, it is the color that “looks out” at the crack site.

We place the frame on a newspaper or any other surface that you don’t mind getting dirty with paint.

Paint the frame with brown acrylic paint in one layer.

In our case, just one layer is enough - the paint lays down in a completely dense layer. Even if there are “bald spots” somewhere, this is not a big deal, since crater varnish and white paint will still be applied on top, which will cover any defects in the main dark coating.
Let the paint dry for 1-2 hours (acrylic paint dries very quickly).

Step 2. We paint the frame with crater varnish.

Crater varnish is a coating that causes cracks. But it is not the paint itself that cracks, but the paint that is applied to it.

It looks like a completely ordinary varnish.

Apply varnish to the frame. What the varnish layer will be is up to you to decide. The most important thing is that no matter what it is, there will still be cracks. That is, even a beginner can’t make a mistake. If the layer is made thin, then the cracks will be small, if thicker, they will be pronounced.

Paint the frame and leave the varnish to dry for 2 hours (no less).

Step 3. Apply a layer of white acrylic paint.

Paint the frame white, quickly brushing it over the surface.

Cracks appear instantly.

It is important to be able to paint the entire width of the frame with literally one stroke, without lifting the brush. It is better to first practice this “operation” on any other surface. Why is this so important? Because when passing the brush over the same place, it disrupts the pattern of cracks: they have already appeared, and we, passing the brush again, apply another layer of paint, which no longer cracks.
In addition, by passing over the same place a second time, you can literally blur the drawing.

It looks like this.

In this case, such a small smeared area even makes it more decorative, but it is important that such “decor” does not dominate the cracks, that is, there should be more of them than smeared areas.

The paint dries in 1-2 hours. After drying, the cracks become more distinct, and the texture we need appears.

Ready option.

Now you know how to age a wooden picture and photo frame with your own hands. By the way, this way you can age any surface.

Every happy moment or significant event in our lives deserves to be captured in a photo. We store most photos as files on a computer or phone, but we want to see special moments as often as possible, and guests also want to show off their own photo portrait or a successfully captured happy moment. A well-chosen frame can highlight the beauty of a photograph, but most of the same types of frames are available on sale. In this case, a good solution would be to create a photo frame with your own hands, which will make your pictures memorable due to its originality.

Vintage frame

Vintage photo frames look very impressive, especially in combination with the classic interior of a house or room. This master class with step-by-step photos will help you transform an ordinary wooden frame into an antique one.

We will need a regular untreated wooden frame, preferably so that the natural wood pattern is clearly visible on the surface.

Next you need to fire the frame using a gas burner. It is advisable to do this outdoors and away from children and flammable substances and materials for safety reasons. You can also burn it over the gas burner of your home stove, but this must be done with great care.

We continue firing until the entire surface of the frame is evenly blackened.

Then carefully clean off the top burnt fibers with a wire brush.

Movements should be directed along the wood fibers. To avoid scratches on the corners, you can use a softer synthetic brush.

We cover the frame with white patina, wait for it to dry, and use a damp cloth to wipe the surface along the grain. This will leave the patina in the shallow grooves, highlighting the dark veins created after firing.

After this, the frame must be coated with wax and polished with a soft cloth. Instead of wax, you can simply cover it with one or more layers of acrylic varnish.

The antique frame is ready!

Gift for the main man in the family

Not only an adult, but also any child can make such a car-shaped frame. And in addition to the original design of the photo, such a souvenir can be an excellent gift for dad on his birthday or on February 23rd.

To make it you will need:

• thick cardboard;
• colored paper;
• black paint;
• pencil or felt-tip pen;
• scissors;
• family photo.

First, on a piece of paper you need to draw the outlines of the car you like. If drawing is difficult, you can print an image from the Internet or copy a picture from a book or coloring book. Next, we cut out the car along the contour and cut a hole in place of the windshield.

After this, you need to outline the template with a felt-tip pen and cut it out of cardboard along the contour, paint over it with black paint.

The next step is to cut out the contours of the machine according to a template from paper with a small rectangle at the top for attaching to cardboard.

We cut out two strips two centimeters wide and about ten to fifteen centimeters long. These will be wheels - stands. They need to be bent into triangles, fastened with glue and painted black.

We add expressive details to the car.

We connect the top of the paper car with the cardboard base, glue the stands on the back, place the photo in the windshield window and glue the lower parts of the car with glue.

And this video presents the idea of ​​decorating a photo frame using the Japanese “kanzashi” technique:

An original decor for a photo frame can be egg shells, as in these photos:

To create such a decor, you need to carefully break the shells of boiled eggs, first removing the transparent film from the inside. Then I cover the base of the photo frame with glue and fill the surface with pieces of eggshell in random order. At the end, you need to secure all this beauty with transparent varnish.

There are a lot of decor options; for example, for a marine-style interior, a photo frame with twine trim is suitable.

An original gift for a child’s birthday – a photo frame made of balloons.

For a gentle and romantic girl, you can decorate the frame with these floral arrangements made from foamiran:

Soft and cozy frame

You can make such a wonderful frame with your own hands from felt.

For this we need:

• colored felt;
• satin ribbon;
• several buttons;
• medium density transparent film;
• scissors, pencil, ruler, glue gun.

From felt we will cut out three rectangles measuring 16 by 21 centimeters, as well as various decorative details.

On one rectangle we retreat 3.5 centimeters from the outer edge and cut out a window.

The film needs to be cut a little larger than the window and secured with decorative stitching around the perimeter of the window.

Then we sew the two lower rectangles together, along the edge of the upper one we lay a connecting stitch on one side, and then we sew all three rectangles on three sides to form a pocket.

On the long side, between the layers of felt, we insert the ends of the tape to fix them at the same time as connecting the parts of the frame.

We sew wheels from buttons onto the locomotive and glue all the decorative elements together to the frame using a glue gun.

If you wish, you can try other ideas for decorating fabric frames, such as in these photos:

You can also decorate photo frames with elements molded from polymer clay.

And this video shows how you can make a photo frame from a plastic bottle.

Do you know that in the endless sea of ​​accessories, a photo frame plays a very important role? After all, it not only frames cherished memories, but is also an attractive decorative element.
Decorate a ladies table in shabby chic style or add a touch of romance to the bedroom, or maybe the kids can make a bright frame with their own hands with funny images and figures?

Today, continuing to replenish my piggy bank with author’s master classes, I have prepared decoupage of photo frames for you. In it you will find a step-by-step description of the execution technique and perhaps create your photo frame in a style that is closer to you and your interior. Here we go.

Materials and tools.

Here's what we'll need in our work:

1. frame (preferably wooden)
2. putty
3. stencils
4. primer Sonnet (black)
5. acrylic lacquer
6. white chalk paint (these are gypsum-based paints)
7. PVA glue
8. napkins for decoupage
9. bitumen varnish
10. brushes, sponges, cloths.

Frame blanks can be bought at the Ikea store. We are preparing it for decoration; to do this, we remove the glass and cardboard and put it aside so as not to get it dirty.

Screening.

My idea is to create slightly worn patterns with black paint showing through the wear and with delicate rose flowers in the corner. Let's see what happens, but for now we apply putty through a stencil. I use Parade acrylic finishing putty (it is very finely grained and sands well), and if you don’t have one, you can replace it with putty from any other company or use an artistic texture paste.

I apply putty to one side and let it dry slightly so as not to spoil it when I apply it to the other side of the frame.

My stencil has an adhesive backing and is very convenient to work with. If everything is ready, let the patterns dry well for an hour or more. After drying, lightly sandpaper to remove small particles that are not attached to the surface. Of course, they will all come off later anyway, but it is better to do this before painting with primer.

Primer.

Cover with black primer and dry.

After the primer, I applied acrylic varnish, this will probably seem a little strange to you, but without varnish, the primer easily came off when creating scuffs, along with the paint that I washed off. If you have enough time, you can do without additional varnishing and let the primer dry thoroughly, or better yet, leave it overnight.

Chalk paint.

Now we are working with chalk paint. But I want to note that to create delicate scuffs, it is not necessary to use chalk paint. This effect can be achieved with artistic paints. You can read how to do this at this link.

I have this decorative white aging paint Shabby Provence from Borma Wachs.

I tint it a little by adding a drop of vanilla art paint. The white color takes on a warmer, milky hue.

I apply it with a brush to the entire frame.

Let it dry and arm yourself with a damp cloth. We rub those areas where these very traces of time will be, i.e. abrasions.

I’m going through the ends, the stencil patterns, and I ended up with this, not yet completed, “shabi chic” frame, but I already like it.

Decoupage

For decoupage, I chose these roses on a white background, which I printed on my printer.

If you do not have such a napkin with a white background, then you will need to cut out the image from any other napkin clearly along the contour.

Glue it to the corner of the frame. I use ordinary construction PVA glue from Lakra. So far it has never failed, the main thing is that it doesn’t turn the napkin yellow.

Using a soft brush, we begin gluing from the middle of the napkin.

If folds form, as happens with beginning decoupage artists, do not be discouraged. When the napkin has completely dried on the surface, the folds can be sanded with sandpaper No. 600-800.

I wanted to add more drawing to this side. Let it be.

The picture seemed very bright and saturated to me, so I lightly painted the dried, sanded napkin with transparent white paint.

The paint will become transparent if you add a little water to it.

Well, the colors have become more muted and now we can fix our beauty with varnish.

I coated it with Dulux celko acrylic matte varnish.

Patination

You can get it dirty with bitumen varnish, as in this case. We take bitumen varnish onto a small piece of sponge, beat the sponge on a sheet of paper so that just a little bit of varnish remains. Otherwise, the varnish will apply a very rich brown color, and we only need to darken the frame slightly. We apply it as shown in the photo.

Bituminous varnish takes a little longer to dry than acrylic varnish; it will still remain sticky for about an hour.

If you overdo it, you can remove the excess from the surface with white spirit.

Brags

And voila, the frame is ready!

Another master class on decorating antique frames is coming very soon, stay tuned for the news.

And these are shots of what the girls and I once did at one of the events at the Bereginya school of handicrafts.

What kind of frames did you get? Good luck in your creativity, new ideas and inspiration! Thank you for stopping by, see you again.