Distance of strings from the fretboard. Adjusting the bridge and string height above the neck of the guitar

And so, we decided.
STEP TWO
Next you need to remove the strings from the guitar, you can do this in the usual way
or “yoke”, I advise, very convenient and fast.


Then, using the same “rocker arm,” we remove the strings from the body of the guitar.

STEP THREE
Next, carefully pull out the threshold.

STEP FOUR
We are looking for a flat surface: for example, a marble slab, glass, etc.
We make a mark on the threshold (how much needs to be cut). Place a sharpened pencil on the lower (flat) part of the threshold, which we will grind off, and fix the corner of the pencil. Then we draw a straight line. I would not recommend touching the upper part (where the strings lie, since the correct radius has already been made there in relation to the neck of the guitar) and we can only make it worse.

We take sandpaper with a grit of about 150 (there is no significant difference), put the threshold on the side that we marked, and slowly remove the thickness to the pencil mark, pressing the threshold tightly to the paper.
Note:

If you are not sure how many millimeters to remove, remove a small layer first. Place the strings and you will understand what to do next.

OK it's all over Now. We put on the strings and rejoice, now you can perform virtuoso works on your instrument. Perhaps your strings will now ring. There are several possible reasons:
1. Old strings with dents under the frets.
2 . Fret wear :
_ _ A) The frets will need to be replaced by a guitar luthier.
_ _ b) at home.
3 . Need to adjust the anchor rod in the neck of the guitar (if provided)

To find out if your neck is straight, do the following:

Lay the guitar down (strings up) so that the neck is on the left side. For example, press the sixth string on the first fret with the little finger of your left hand, and press the same string with the finger of your right hand on the 14th fret. Using the thumb of your left hand, we reach the seventh fret and, using pressing actions, determine the distance between the 6th fret and the string. The gap between the string and the saddle should be 0.10” = 2.5 mm. If your indicators are not the same, you need to adjust the anchor screw. When you do all the procedures correctly, I assure you that you will be very satisfied with the tool.

After purchasing an electric guitar, many beginners immediately try to play something, which is understandable. However, a problem may occur due to rattling of one or more strings. The strings can also be difficult to pinch, making playing difficult. All of this can be caused by incorrect string heights.

Why is it necessary to adjust the height of the strings?

This question is important for both beginners and pros. However, in the case of the former, the reason is basic sound quality. As a rule, when purchasing a guitar, especially an inexpensive one, you need to know that initially the strings are not adjusted properly. Because of this, a characteristic rattling sound appears during the playing process, especially noticeable on the thickest sixth string. This greatly spoils the experience of the game.

For an already experienced guitarist, the need to adjust the strings is determined by the playing style. If the emphasis is on playing speed, then the strings should be slightly lower than the standard value. Also, over time, the guitarist himself chooses the most optimal height for his playing style. However, before that, a lot of time and forced adjustments to the height of the strings on the electric guitar will pass.

Standard height

Focusing on the already accepted parameters, it should be noted that the standard height of the strings on an electric guitar changes for each individually. As a rule, on the very first and thinnest string this value is 1.5 mm. Each subsequent string will be 0.1 mm higher. So, already on the sixth string the value will be 2 mm.

What does the height of the strings depend on?

The stated optimal height of strings on an electric guitar in the paragraph described above is suitable for medium-thick strings. The said increase of 0.1 mm is caused precisely by the increasing volume of the string. This is noticeable even to the naked eye. The first string, being the thinnest, allows the smallest height above the fretboard, while the sixth, with a slight deviation from the optimal value, can begin to rattle, hitting the frets.

When choosing what height the strings should be, you should focus on the sound and personal feelings. First, you should align the strings to the optimal values ​​(the height at the last fret is measured). Then try playing with this setting. Particular attention should be paid to the thickest string, since it is when playing on it that the height problem will be more noticeable. Even if during playing a given string does not seem particularly important and is rarely used, the problem can show itself at the most inopportune moment and disrupt the sound.

If the optimal height turns out to be unsuitable, then you should increase the height of the strings above the neck of the electric guitar. Sometimes 0.1 mm is enough to get the desired result. It is not advisable to overdo it in this process, as this will complicate the game.

Acceptable values ​​for string heights

Earlier it was mentioned that string height depends on playing style. You should consider the adjustment options in more detail:


How to set up

To adjust the height of the strings on an electric guitar, you need to understand the existing bridge. There are several varieties of them, each of which has its own configuration features. So, the most popular are Tune-o-Matic, Hardtail, Vintage Tremolo, Floyd Rose.

Other settings

The height of the strings on an electric guitar is quite important, but it is not the only setting that affects the quality of the game. In most cases, the tuning process is limited to tightening the pegs to get the string to sound correctly. However, if the guitar is tuned correctly and the strings are new enough, there will be no need for frequent tuning.

When an electric guitar is not adjusted properly, the strings will often become out of tune and the frequency of the sound adjustments will increase, which will affect the quality of the instrument. There are few basic settings other than string height.

Neck deflection

The neck of an electric guitar contains a metal rod called a truss rod. Its purpose is quite simple - to prevent the bar from bending under tension

When adjusting the height of the strings on an electric guitar, a situation may arise when it is not possible to make an adjustment due to the fact that the height differs greatly on different frets. The problem may lie precisely in the anchor. It should be adjusted before adjusting the height of the strings, since it is thanks to it that they hold on.

Before you begin to adjust the anchor, you should determine whether there is a curvature and in which direction it is directed. This is determined by pressing the string at the first and sixth fret. If the string comes into contact with one of the frets located between the clamped ones, you need to loosen the anchor. If the height is too high, tighten it. The test is carried out on an already configured instrument.

The adjustment is carried out with a hex key, which turns the anchor bolt. To loosen the anchor, twist counterclockwise. To pull up - clockwise. In this case, you should not be too zealous; a small shift is enough to bring the anchor back to normal. However, the change may not be immediately noticeable, since the wood of the fingerboard takes a little time to take on the new shape.

Mensura

At this point, attention should be paid to the working length of the string. This setting is not possible on every guitar. However, electric guitars with a tremolo system allow this procedure. The tuning itself is carried out on each string, starting with the first. The natural harmonic should be taken out at the 12th fret. To do this, first touch the string, but do not pinch it, and then pluck it with the finger of your free hand. Remember the sound. Then press the same string and compare the resulting sounds. They should be the same. If the harmonic is lower, reduce the string. Otherwise, increase.

Pickups

Finally, you should pay attention to the height of the pickups. This value will determine how an electric guitar connected to an amplifier will sound. Typically, the pickup should be as close to the strings as possible, but they should not catch on it while playing. Also, the strings on the last frets should not sound worse than before adjusting the pickup.

The process of adjusting the height of the strings on an electric guitar may seem quite simple. However, in practice, beginners are not always able to cope with the adjustment. It will take time to learn all the intricacies of the procedure, so during the very first setup it would be useful to seek the help of a professional who can accurately perform the procedure and, possibly, detect existing defects that impede correct setup.

Fine-tuning an electric guitar is a much more complex process than tuning an acoustic one. This is due to the large number of mechanisms and parts in the Electra, which require additional adjustment. In this article we will look step by step at how to properly tune all the necessary elements of an electric guitar.

Anchor adjustment

An anchor is a long metal rod located inside the neck that regulates its deflection and prevents deformation under the tension of the strings. Most often, it is tuned well and there is no need to touch it, but if the guitar rattles with average playing strength, then you will have to tinker.

When the truss rod is not adjusted correctly, the neck becomes concave or curved. This results in string chatter (if the neck is curved) or a large distance between the strings and the neck (if the neck is concave), making it more difficult to play.

How to understand that it is the anchor that is “to blame”? There is a special test for this: clamp any string on the first fret and the same string at the place where the neck is attached to the body (approximately 20-21 frets). Now look at the distance between the 7th fret nut and the string. Ideally, it is 1-3 millimeters. If this is not the case, then you will have to adjust the anchor. To do this you need to follow the following algorithm:

  1. Loosen all strings.
  2. Unscrew the bolts on the curtain.
  3. Insert the hex key and tighten the anchor.


Which way should I turn the key? Clockwise - straightening the bar, counter - arching. If there is anything still unclear to you, we have posted an online video with a detailed description below.

Important! Turn the keys very slowly and carefully until you achieve the desired result. Sometimes turning the key 2-3 degrees is enough to get the desired effect.

After working with the truss rod, you can tune the guitar and start playing. But, there is a high probability that in a couple of days you will have to resort to tuning again, since the strings will create pressure which can lead to slight deformation. There's nothing wrong with that.

If you did everything correctly, but the strings are still rattling or only part of the strings are rattling, there are several reasons for this:

  • The strings need to be replaced because their winding is worn out (if the strings are more than 6 months old);
  • The guitar bridge is not set up correctly. It may be higher or lower than normal;
  • the saddles on the bridge are not adjusted correctly, they may be lowered;
  • the top of the neck is worn out, or it is not from this guitar;
  • neck deformation. This can only be solved by replacing the neck.

String height adjustment

If everything is fine with the neck, but the guitar still rattles, then you should try adjusting the height of the strings. The higher they are raised above the bar, the less likely they are to rattle and the more difficult they are to clamp. The standard rise of the strings above the fingerboard is described in the table.

String Last fret distance
1st 1.5 mm
2nd 1.6 mm
3rd 1.7 mm
4th 1.8 mm
5th 1.9 mm
6th 2.0 mm

Before you begin, be sure to loosen the strings. After this, you can begin adjusting the height of the saddle. Many guitarists ask how to determine the optimal height? There is no answer to this question. It all depends on the characteristics of your sound production. The harder you play and the harder you play, the higher the height should be so that the strings do not hit the saddle. However, remember that the greater the distance to the strings, the more difficult it is to press them. For beginners, it is always recommended to set the minimum height. The attached video will help you understand unclear points.

Scale adjustment

The scale is the distance between the upper and lower saddle, in other words, the working length of the string, that is, the one that is directly involved in the “sound”. The purity of the guitar's sound depends on how well the scale is adjusted. Most guitars are 25.5" or 24.7" long. When purchased, it is roughly configured and you often have to configure it yourself.

First, tune the instrument to standard tuning, and then select the chromatic mode in the tuner. Now play the sound at the 12th fret and look at the tuner arrow: if it deviates to the right, then the scale needs to be “lengthened,” and if it moves to the left, then, on the contrary, shortened, that is, move the saddle closer to the center. Remember to tune your guitar every time you move the saddle.

What to do if the guitar is still out of tune? Most likely, it will have to be carried to the workshop. There is a high probability that the problem lies in the incorrect placement of the nuts, bridge, or incorrect markings of the frets. It often happens that the frets wear out and the point of contact between the string and the nut changes. In this case, it will not be possible to accurately adjust the scale; you will need to grind and polish the frets again. All the most important points are discussed online in the video attached below.

Replacing strings

Another important point that all guitarists have to face sooner or later is. This process is simple, but still has its own nuances.

In the table below, we have given the approximate number of turns of strings on the pegs. This is not important, but will serve as a guide for beginners on how long the string should be left. This is not an absolute truth and following this rule will not affect the guitar in any way.

String Number of turns
1st 4-5
2nd 4
3rd 2-3
4th 2
5th 2
6th 2

And finally, a small life hack. To make your strings last longer, you need to take care of them. The biggest problem is the deposits of pieces of skin and sweat on the strings, which, interacting with the guitar, destroy the structure of the string, oxidizing the metal. This reduces the service life of the strings. To slow down this process, always approach the instrument with clean hands and wipe the strings with alcohol at least once a week.

You can also watch the online video if any points are unclear.

Well, that's all the information that may be useful to you when tuning your guitar. Perhaps tuning an electric guitar seems complicated: adjusting the truss rod, the height of the strings, the scale, but if you figure out the network, it turns out that everything is not so difficult and even brings pleasure! Thank you for reading the article, we hope that you found answers to all your questions. If anything is still unclear, ask in the comments below. Join our VKontakte group, where you will find even more useful and fresh materials for guitarists. Bye!

Greetings, beginner guitarists! You don't know how to properly adjust the bridge and the height of the strings above the neck of the guitar? Well, if so, then today I will try to help you deal with this issue. There is nothing complicated here, you just need a little perseverance and free time, because this procedure requires tuning not only the bridge itself, but also the structure of the guitar as a whole. After reading this article, all you have to do is follow all the steps described below and easily apply this knowledge in the future.

Where to begin?

Before you start making bridge adjustments, you need to make sure that the guitar is tuned in the key you are used to playing. But still, it is better to make adjustments in the standard key (E).

The next thing to do is measure the distance (height) from the string to the 12th fret, and this must be repeated with each string, from 1 before 6 . The received data needs to be written down on paper and already figured out what to do next.

What string height do we need?

Important! Depending on your style of playing the guitar, you can raise it, but lowering it is not recommended, because the string needs space to vibrate, otherwise the sound will be inexpressive and dull.

0.8 mm– this height is set by those guitarists who prefer high-speed playing and, accordingly, ease of pressing the strings to the neck. But at such a height, it is necessary to take into account that it is quite difficult to perform such an adjustment, because it is extremely important to prevent the strings from rattling on the frets. If the rattling cannot be eliminated, and you want to lower the strings, then you will have to sand and level the frets.

1.2 mm– but this string height is considered normal for most guitarists, because This distance will allow you to play the guitar quite comfortably and quickly. This is, so to speak, the golden mean.

1.6 mm– for lovers of a higher position and larger gauge (diameter) of strings, but here you need to take into account that the greater the height, the more difficult it is to press the strings to the frets.

Another important detail is the radius of the neck, and also, not unimportantly, the style of your guitar playing. If the fingerboard has a small radius, as is found on most Stratocasters, and you sometimes like to bend in the top positions, then you will most likely need to raise 2 And 3 string in order to avoid rattling during the same bends.

Let's start adjusting the bridge

Once you have already decided on the required string height, taking into account all the previously made and recorded measurements, you can begin adjusting the bridge. If you need to lower or raise all the strings at the same time, then you will have to adjust the height of the bridge, unless of course its design allows this. Another option is to adjust the height of one or several strings individually.

Below are the most common bridges installed on many modern electric guitars. Let's look at them in more detail.

Tune-o-matic

On this Gibson bridge, the string height is adjusted using two wheels located at the edges directly below it. In the image below, these wheels are indicated by an arrow.

Hardtail

This Telecaster bridge offers individual height adjustment for each string. This is done using two adjusting screws, which are located on each saddle. Take the hexagon and turn these screws until you achieve the desired height of the saddle and the entire bridge as a whole.

Vintage Tremolo

The classic Strat tremolo is adjusted similarly to the Telecaster bridge, i.e. Here you can also individually adjust each string's height using the same tuning screws on each saddle, and for this you will need an Allen wrench.

Floyd Rose

The height of the strings on a floating Floyd Rose is adjusted using the tremolo support screws (they are indicated by an arrow in the figure). By rotating these screws clockwise, you will lower it, and vice versa, counterclockwise, the tremolo will rise.

When you have made all the necessary adjustments and set the height of the strings to a comfortable height for yourself, after that you need to completely check the neck of the guitar for rattling - we clamp each string on each fret and see if it rattles in any place. If rattling is present, then in this case you first need to determine its cause and only then try to eliminate it by making the appropriate adjustments.

As practice and many years of experience show, there is always string chatter regardless of adjustment, it just may not be very noticeable. A slight rattle, in my opinion, is not so bad. But keep in mind the main thing - it should not get into the amp or amplifier and spoil the overall sound of the guitar.

What else do you need to know about adjustment?

On breeches like TuneoMatic, and FloydRose, the base on which the saddles are mounted is specifically designed to match the fingerboard radius on the bar. And that’s why adjusting the height of each individual string is possible if you put a spacer under the Floyd Rose saddle, but on the Tune-o-Matic you will have to replace the saddle blade, which is quite problematic. At least I have not yet seen saddles of different sizes for such a bridge.

On VintageTremolo and breeches Hardtail You will have to adjust two tuning screws for each string to the same height, and relative to each other. It is also important that all saddles are level and not skewed in any direction.

If you own an electric guitar, the neck of which is bolted on, and adjusting the bridge height did not allow you to lower the strings to a comfortable level without causing chatter, then in this case you need to place a pad under the heel of the neck and re-adjust the bridge.

That's all! As you can see, adjusting the bridge and the height of the strings above the neck of the guitar is quite simple, try it and you will definitely succeed. If you have anything to add or ask, you can leave your comment below and I will definitely answer you. Subscribe to site updates to always be aware of events. Share with your friends on social networks, I will be very grateful to you for it!

Detailed knowledge about the structure of the guitar will never be superfluous. Plus, learning guitar is a lot of fun. This step-by-step guide will help you fine-tune your guitar yourself. As with anything, you will need good tools.

Steps

Neck setup

Check if the bar is straight. Inspect the neck for any bowing or bending. For more accurate results, use a ruler. Make sure one end of the ruler touches the first fret and the other end touches the last fret. Check along both the first string and the last string to make sure the neck is not twisted on its axis.

  • It's good if the neck is slightly concave. Guitar makers say that the slight deflection reduces stress on the neck and allows strings to be pressed at all frets. When checking such a bar with a ruler, you may notice that there is a small gap between its working edge and the bar. But if the neck bends in the opposite direction, it will be almost impossible to play on such a guitar, and it will have to be taken to a master.
  • Take more accurate measurements if you think the bar is bowed. Measure the distance of the fourth string from the fingerboard at the twelfth fret by plucking it at the first and last fret at the same time. Ideally, a thin business card should fit into the gap between the string and the twelfth fret. If the string lies on the twelfth fret, and there is no gap or is not visible, then the neck is straight, or bent in the opposite direction. You can check the straightness of the neck by pinch the strings in different places and use the string as a ruler.

    • If you have access to a set of gauges, use it. Place the capo on the first fret, then fret the last string on the last fret. Then check the distance between the string and the eighth fret with a gauge. It should be approximately 0.254 mm. If the gap is larger, the neck will need to be tightened by tightening the truss rod nut clockwise.
  • The neck is adjustable with a truss rod. If you want to adjust the neck bend, remove the protective cap on the headstock. On some guitars, the truss rod adjustment nut is located at the other end of the neck. Adjust carefully, making no more than a quarter turn at a time, and always use the correct hex wrench.

    • If the neck is too bowed, you will need to loosen the truss rod by turning the nut counterclockwise. Take your time and don't make more than a quarter turn of the nut at a time. Then let the guitar adjust to the new tuning a bit before attempting to play it. It's better to wait a few hours, or even leave the guitar overnight, then tune the strings and try playing.
  • Check the angle between the bar and the body. If the truss rod is set correctly, but the distance between the strings and the neck at the twelfth fret is too wide, the neck may not be set correctly. Before unscrewing the neck, remove the strings and place the guitar on a flat surface. If the neck is not glued, you can remove the bolts to check where it is attached.

    • The neck should be parallel to the body of the guitar, but often if the assembly is poor, dust and sawdust get into the mounting area, and a small angle appears during installation. Clean the mounting area and install the bar back.
    • If there is still an angle between the body and the neck, you can place a shim under the bottom two bolts or under the top two (depending on the angle of the neck). By placing a piece of paper under the bottom bolts, you can eliminate the forward tilt. If the neck is tilted in the opposite direction, place a piece of paper under the top bolts. If the angle is too large, fold the paper.

    Fine tuning

    Adjust the string pressure. The pressure of the strings depends on the distance from the fingerboard. Different string height settings suit different guitarists. The main thing is that the strings are comfortable for you to press, and that the strings do not touch the frets. If you have little experience in fine-tuning guitars, pick up an unwanted or unloved guitar before tuning your beauty.

    • Measure the gap between the string and the first fret. After this, you will be able to determine whether the top sill has been cut correctly. If the gaps do not meet the standards, the threshold can be filed. The gap between the strings and the frets at the twelfth fret is determined by the bottom, which can be raised or lowered, and the intonation of each string is adjusted on it. Here are the standard clearances for electric guitars:
      • 1 fret 1 string - 1/64" or 0.397 mm
      • 1st fret 6th string - 2/64" or 0.794 mm
      • 12 fret 1 string - 3/64" or 1.191 mm
      • 12th fret 6th string - 5/64" or 1.984 mm
  • Quick and rough setup. Assuming your truss rod is set up properly and that the neck slope is correct, adjust the distance from the first string to the twelfth fret by about a millimeter and a half. (You can check this distance with a 10- or 50-kopeck coin, the thickness of which is 1.5 mm). If possible, make the gap smaller.

    • Adjust the height of the second and third strings in the same way; the distance of the remaining strings from the fingerboard should be greater.
  • Additional settings. A guitar may have great tuning on the first 12 frets, but the chords above can sound terrible. If this happens, you need to adjust the intonation of each string at the nut. There should be screws on the bottom saddle that adjust the length of the string. Be sure to make all other adjustments before adjusting the intonation.

    • Turn on the tuner and start tuning from the last string. Fetch the harmonic at the 12th fret, then listen to the note by holding down the string. If the tuner readings are different, fine tuning is necessary.
      • If the harmonic sounds lower than the note at the 12th fret, lengthen the string by twisting the saddle on the nut towards the tailpiece.
      • If the harmonic sounds higher than the note at the 12th fret, shorten the length of the string by twisting the saddle towards the neck.
    • Repeat this step for the remaining strings and you should have a fairly well-intonated guitar. Perfectionists can take the guitar to a workshop where the guitar will be tuned using an ultra-precise strobe tuner.
  • As a last resort, adjust the frets. If the guitar still rattles on some frets, the frets may need to be adjusted. Adventurous guitarists can try sanding or adjusting the frets themselves. First, make sure that all other settings are correct; a curved neck aggravates fret problems. Then, if some of the frets are too protruding or uneven, you can tap them with a plastic hammer.

    • If this does not help, you can sand the frets. Level the neck as much as possible (just don't break the truss rod), place the guitar on a flat surface, and cover the frets with masking tape to avoid damaging them. Place some coarse sandpaper on the block and start sanding. Go over all the frets at once in one pass, this way you will grind down the protruding frets.
    • Severely worn frets are best replaced. This is expensive and difficult, so consult a guitar luthier.


  •