Pereyaslav open air museum. Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky - a museum kingdom

In Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky, then I did not have time to write a report about the trip, constantly putting it off until later.

I'll add my impressions.

Also in Pereyaslav there is something that Pirogovo does not have in principle - these are various small museums. Entrance to each museum is paid separately; it seems impossible to visit each of them in one visit. We visited the towel museum and the land transport museum. The Transport Museum was very impressive; it contains a unique collection of vehicles, the only one on the territory of Ukraine - various carts, strollers, phaetons.

We also really wanted to go to the space museum, the very existence of which in a folk museum is somehow surreal, and besides, the museum is located inside a church, but this museum, unfortunately, was closed.

The stationmaster of the Postal Station Museum also went on a spree somewhere. This is the downside of visiting on an “unformatted” day.

Also on the territory of the museum there is such a skeleton, this is the support of the old Park Bridge in Kyiv, in 1983 it was replaced with an exact copy of it, and the support was transferred to the museum in Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky. You can read more about this bridge here.

This city has the largest number of museums among small towns in Ukraine. There are 27 of them here, almost a museum for a thousand people! We have selected the best of the best for you. And the best open-air museum in Ukraine is located right here! One of the three oldest princely capitals of Rus', the city with which the first mention of the word “Ukraine” and the famous Pereyaslav Rada of 1654 are associated. The most museum city in the country is waiting for you.

A military diorama, a beekeeping museum, a towel museum, and next to it is a space exploration museum! Just 112 km from Kyiv - and you find yourself in the heart of princely and Cossack Ukraine. Sholom Aleichem, G. Skovoroda, Holy Prince Gleb, T. Shevchenko and almost all the hetmans - only this list is enough to understand the significance of Pereyaslav in Ukrainian culture and history. Pereyaslav preserves in its museums treasures that match the capital; the collections collected here are in total one of the most complete and representative collections of Ukrainian art. 11 church buildings, 16 mills, a collection of ancient stone sculptures and funeral sarcophagi of the Copper and Bronze Age (69 items), materials from settlements of the Trypillian culture, Scythian time, Chernyakhov culture, icons of the 18th-20th centuries. (1400 items), collections of early printed publications, collection of the Cossack period.

The Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper is a beautiful park with groves, lakes and meadows, into which ancient churches, mills, museums, rural houses with vegetable gardens and flower beds harmoniously fit. Here we managed to preserve the true spirit of the Ukrainian village. And most of the houses, churches and mills were collected and transported from villages flooded during the creation of the cascade of Dnieper reservoirs. A day spent here will fly by unnoticed and will leave a positive charge for a single week.

Included in the price:

• travel by comfortable transport, air conditioning, microphone
• services of a licensed tour guide according to the program,
• accompanied by a guide along the entire route.

Additional charges:

• personal expenses
• entrance tickets to the Museum of Folk Architecture and Open-Air Life (15.00 UAH/adult, 10.00 UAH/children).
• entrance tickets to the “Museum of the Ukrainian Towel”, “Space”, “Rituals”, “People’s Land Transport” - 3.00/person each.

Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, Cossack Church	Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, Cossack crosses	Museum of Folk Architecture and Life, Huts

Nikolai SHKIRA, head of the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper Region - a branch of the National Historical and Ethnographic Reserve "Pereyaslav":

“EVERY HOUSE IN THE MUSEUM HAS ITS HISTORY,OWN DESTINY AND, OF COURSE, YOUR RELATIVES"

When you have to enter Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky from the direction of Kyiv, then on the side of the road just before the suburb - where the sign of the locality is usually installed, you will also be greeted by the following message: “City-Reserve”. Here is the date of its first chronicle mention: 907. This means that you are entering one of the three oldest cities and one of the three most ancient princely capitals of Ancient Rus'.

It is not surprising that today Pereyaslav-Khmelnytsky is also one of the richest museum cities in Ukraine. There are as many as 24 of them here, in the not so large regional center. And, of course, when you have already reached Pereyaslav, you will certainly want to visit the best of this museum oasis. Moreover, it is also the first open-air museum in Ukraine. Its full name: Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper.

On display at the open-air museum

Perhaps it is better to enter it not from the main entrance, but from the side of the city itself: from the central square, walk along the chronicle street to the bank of the Trubezh River, then across the bridge to a vast meadow, and then along the path along the shore of the pond, through the wooden masonry in the reeds, among the bushes and willows and another hundred meters along the dirt road - and you are already in front of the back gate. And in order not to get lost out of habit, it is better to wait until the sun rises a little over Pereyaslav - then an endless line of local people will follow the same path to the “Tatar Mountain”, where the museum is located. They will come alone and with families, with visiting guests and with children in strollers...

The museum is a significant part of the entire local nature reserve; strictly speaking, in protocol terms, it is a branch of the National Historical and Ethnographic Reserve “Pereyaslav”. With the head of this branch museum Nikolai SHKIRA and his wife Lyudmila SHKIRA, a senior researcher at the museum, we are sitting in one of the... exhibits - in a decrepit, under straw, Ukrainian hut, transported from a village that has long been absent from the map of Ukraine. Both vying with each other to talk about “their” museum: “We are proud of it...”. About the history of its foundation, because: “Without knowing the history of the creation of the museum itself, one cannot really understand what it has absorbed...”

So first things first.

Lyudmila:— Pereyaslav is very lucky because he has Mikhail Ivanovich Sikorsky, now the honorary general director of the Pereyaslav nature reserve, Hero of Ukraine. He will be 88 years old in the fall. And in 1951, after graduating from the history department of Kyiv University, he came to our city to create a historical museum and settled in the museum itself - in a room built in 1820 by Taras Shevchenko’s friend Andrey Kozachkovsky.

Actually, this museum already existed: 32 exhibits were stored there - the remains of what was left after the pre-war fire. And the historical museum itself, by the way, was created for the 1000th anniversary of Pereyaslav. Now the young historian was faced with the task of reviving the full life of the institution in time for the celebration in 1954 of the 300th anniversary of the reunification of Ukraine with Russia. We remember from history: it was here, in Pereyaslav, that Bogdan Khmelnitsky signed the March agreements... And after the old-new historical museum was opened, Mikhail Ivanovich began to have museums faster than children. It so happened in his life that he was never married, lived in a museum for 17 years and, in fact, museums became his children.

Therefore, in Pereyaslav there is now a museum, say, of Grigory Skovoroda. There is a large collection of manuscripts - about 10 thousand... We have a museum-diorama “The Battle of the Dnieper...”, the artistic canvas was created by Moscow artists from the famous Grekov studio. We also have a memorial museum for Vladimir Zabolotny, an architect and author of many famous projects, for example, the Verkhovna Rada building in Kyiv. Also - the museum of Trypillian culture and Cossack glory, our fellow countryman - the classic of Jewish literature Sholom Aleichem... And, of course, the pride of Pereyaslav - the Museum of the Testament of Taras Shevchenko. Because it was here, here, that Shevchenko wrote 10 of his best works. And now Kobzar “settled” in precisely the house of his friend, which I already mentioned and in which Sikorsky lived for some time...

Nikolay:- In general, Pereyaslav houses a huge collection of exhibits - about 168 thousand of the main fund. Our Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper region stands out among all others in that everything here is presented in the original. More than 300 objects are exhibited on an almost 25-hectare area, 122 of them are monuments of folk architecture of the 17th - early 20th centuries, 20 courtyards with houses and outbuildings, more than 30 thousand works of folk art, tools, life and culture of Ukrainians.

Correspondent: — Where and how were these exhibits brought?

Nikolay:— The open-air museum is the brainchild of Sikorsky, the first of its kind in Ukraine. Mikhail Ivanovich brought to life the original idea of ​​his friend Efrem Fedotovich Ishchenko, a local irrigation and drainage specialist. It was in 1963, when both friends became imbued with the misfortune that was hanging over the surrounding Dnieper villages at that time.

Correspondent: - What's the problem? Was the museum born out of trouble?

Each house has its own history, its own destiny

Nikolay:- Certainly. The fact is that at that time 9 villages and 19 farmsteads of the Pereyaslav region were to be flooded with the waters of the Kanev Reservoir. They knew about the flooding for a long time. Those were still pre-war government plans. And after the war they began to move from words to deeds: it was necessary to build the Kiev, Kanevskoye, Kakhovskoye reservoirs... And it was the Cossack villages that preserved the entire Cossack culture, the folk traditions of Ukraine - all of them were flooded. To preserve the memory of these villages, their ancient traditions and rituals, Sikorskmiy decides to create a museum.

In other words, the bulk of the museum’s exhibits were brought from villages located in the reservoir construction zone.

Lyudmila:— I researched the archives. I was simply amazed at the wisdom and intelligence of Mikhail Ivanovich... This land where we are now is the fifth site that Sikorsky agreed to at one time, carefully and meticulously choosing a place for the future museum. Before him, the city council offered land plots somewhere outside the city or near the Dnieper...

Correspondent: — What did you like about this particular area?

Nikolay:- There are several reasons for this. Firstly, since ancient times this area has been popularly called “Tatar Mountain”. This is the southern border of the city. It was from here that in ancient times Pereyaslav was attacked by the Tatars. It was through the Tatar Mountain that the ancient road ran to Vyunishch, Kozintsy, Komarovka - many of those old villages that are now hidden by the waters of the Dnieper.

Lyudmila:— And here there is a successful combination of forest-steppe and steppe zones, picturesque relief... At first, only 5 hectares were “cut”. People with great enthusiasm began to plant a park and create a museum exhibition...

Nikolay:“But even without this land yet, Mikhail Ivanovich began to bring exhibits and stack them near St. Michael’s Church, in the center of Pereyaslav. By the way, it was thanks to this that the ancient temple was preserved. And it was built by a friend of Bogdan Khmelnitsky, Fedor Loboda.

Lyudmila:“When they began to build a museum on this mountain, grandfather Efrem Ishchenko, although he knew all the works of Taras Shevchenko by heart, every time he took out Kobzar’s “free” book - and that’s how, according to his works, an open-air museum was built.

Correspondent: - That is, how - “according to works”?

Lyudmila:— The trees that were planted were those that are often mentioned in Shevchenko’s works. The houses and interior decoration were also reproduced according to Tarasov’s descriptions...

Nikolay:— By the way, we are hatching the idea of ​​creating a name list of people and organizations in Pereyaslav who, over the course of many years, created this museum with a big heart. So that everyone can see, so that they know... Among the enthusiasts there was a great agronomist, Yakov Gordeevich Beznosov. He planted the local park - many bushes, roses, trees... A wise, tolerant person. He liked to repeat: “You can deceive me, but you cannot deceive a tree, so water the tree.” Workers still often recall this saying of his.

Lyudmila:- And Fyodor Fedorovich Darda! His golden hands created or reconstructed more than one architectural landmark.

Nikolay:- Yes, he’s already a very old grandfather, he’s like a father to us. We still go to him for advice. Let’s say they started blocking the windmills, and we asked: Fedor Fedorovich, which tree is better? He says: aspen, it does not allow moisture to pass through and is stored for a long time. Now we’re racking our brains: where can we get this aspen to properly cover 15 windmills and 2 water mills? Because it’s not good to fix them somehow...

Lyudmila:“And Sikorsky and Ishchenko planned so that a folk craftsman would sit at each house and demonstrate his craft...

Correspondent: - Here we are in the house of whose master we are sitting now?

Lyudmila:— Chinbarya are craftsmen engaged in tanning skins—tanners. And we also have a hut for a potter, a carpenter, an oleiner, a weaver, a cooper... Or, say, a ctenophore hut - there are craftsmen who made combs from cattle horns, and each of the residents of our region had locally produced combs... There are houses for both widows and priests. There are houses of the poor and those of the middle-income peasant. And two more farmsteads of wealthy families - a peasant industrialist and a peasant landowner. In total, there are 23 estates, transported from nearby villages and reassembled here.

Correspondent: — I wonder if their former owners visit these homes?

Nikolay:— Each house in the museum has its own history, its own destiny. And, of course, your relatives. In addition, the exhibition contains many exhibits from flooded villages. Therefore, this idea was not found out of nowhere - to establish a Meeting Day for residents of villages flooded by the waters of the Dnieper. We are holding it for the second year in a row.

Lyudmila:— On the territory of the museum there is the Church of St. George. It was built in 1768 in the village of Andrushi. By the way, Taras Shevchenko visited this village in 1845 and painted the landscapes “Willows in Andrushi” and “Andrushi” there. Subsequently, Taras Grigorievich recalled: “Now it seems to me that there will not be a better paradise in the next world, like those Andrushas.” Ironically, it was in the same year, 1845, that the village was hit by a large flood. This was also evidenced by the memorial plaque: “During the reign of Emperor Nicholas and during the administration of the state peasants by the minister Count Kiselev and during the administration of this part of the Poltava province by Colonel Arandarenko, the village of Andrushi was founded on May 30 days after its destruction by the flood of the Dnieper River in 1845.”

Therefore, even in our days, when Andrushi went under the waters of the Kanev Reservoir, its residents themselves helped transport the Church of St. George to us. A memorial plaque was also delivered with him. We took as a basis the date stamped on it - May 30 - and conditionally consider it the birthday or, perhaps, the day of resurrection of all the villages of Pereyaslavshchina flooded in the reservoir.

They gathered those whose small homeland remained under water. There is great sadness in people's eyes. Since, in fact, they have nothing from their grandfather and great-grandfather. Perhaps, perhaps, some chest, towel, shirt, or someone left an entire hut in the museum... Nikolai and I will also go, sometimes, to the Dnieper - where his great-grandfather once lived in Tsybli and had 80 hectares there land. Then Nikolai will point to the surface of the water and sometimes joke: there, they say, is my land...

Nikolay:— When the holiday was held on the Market Square of the museum, the Dnieper Wave choir from the village of Tsybli performed. 40 people stand on stage, sing and cry... Only what Sikorsky preserved is what remains for them from their homeland...

Lyudmila:— We have, for example, the house of Fedot Khvostik. Once upon a time there lived a man in one of the nearby villages, he had his own apiary - as many as 1000 hives. During the Great Patriotic War, he bought a tank for the front with his own money. He was so rich. And Ponytail also had three sons and a daughter. The children grew up and moved away. And the eldest son, in order not to dismantle his father’s hut, donated it to our museum. It is one of our largest - 9x16 meters, oak, strong, although built in the 19th century. The descendants live some in Kyiv, some in Moscow or somewhere else, but they often come to their father’s house as if it were their own home.

Correspondent: - Do they really spend the night in the house?

Nikolay:— There is now a Beekeeping Museum there. In the entryway there are all sorts of beekeeping supplies... There is also a photo of Grandfather Tail...

Correspondent: - You say - a beekeeping museum? Is there another museum on the territory of your museum? A museum within a museum?

Lyudmila:- Yes, and not just one - there are about a dozen of them. Each of them has a personal supervisor, or, as we joke, a director. I am, say, the “director” of the Museum of People’s Land Transport, and Nikolai, among other things, is also involved in the Museum of Bread.

Correspondent: - So introduce them at least briefly before we examine them on the spot!

On display at the Museum of People's Land Transport

Lyudmila:— I’ll tell you about “my” Museum of People’s Land Transport. It presents a collection of more than 70 exhibits. Carts, sleighs, carriages, carts... Back in the 50s, Mikhail Ivanovich ordered his messengers: go to Father Makhno, in Gulyai-Polye, and bring a real cart. They brought... There is a phaeton. At one time there were two masters of carriage making in our area. One of them, Gusakov, lived in Pereyaslav itself. He made that phaeton that is now on display, and it was found all the way in the Cherkassy region. We even have an Olympic chariot. After her, Sikorsky sent his deputy, Vera Petrovna Melnik, to the Olympic Games, and she delivered the chariot on which the real Olympic flame was transported... And there are also reconstructed things. For example, Chumatskaya mazha. As is known, the Milky Way ran from Kyiv to the Pereyaslav region. So we decided to reconstruct the mazhi. They even made amulets...

Postal Station Museum

Nikolay:— If you enter the Cossack church, you will see: everyone there is wearing towels. This is the Museum of the Ukrainian Towel; it contains about 4,000 exhibits, let’s consider the entire history of the Ukrainian people. There is also a separate Museum of Folk Rituals and Customs. And museums of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church, beekeeping, forestry, the classic of Jewish literature Sholom Aleichem, the inventor of the electric welding machine Nikolai Nikolaevich Benardos...

Correspondent: — Wait a minute, what does an ethnographic museum and electric welding have in common?

Nikolay:— Everything is simple here: Sikorsky “pulled” everything interesting and instructive that he could to Pereyaslav. Therefore, exhibits, one way or another connected with Benardos, flowed here from everywhere, and we have many memorial items. This museum was opened in 1982, on the 100th anniversary of the invention of the electric welding machine. Benardos invented it first, although for a long time it was believed that the palm belonged to the Americans. For some time, Nikolai Nikolaevich (who, by the way, is also the inventor of the tin can and the electric razor, which is also described in the museum exposition) lived in Pereyaslav, and was buried in Fastov. The local museum workers at one time refused the proposal of the Institute of Electric Welding named after Academician Paton to organize a museum, but Sikorsky seized on it with great enthusiasm.

Lyudmila:— The story of the founding of the Space Museum is somewhat similar. It may seem incredible, but it just so happened that it is located... in a church. There is also a logical explanation for this fact: in order to protect the Vyunishchansky temple from flooding, Sikorsky resorted to a trick - he began to equip it, supposedly temporarily, with a Space Museum. With the support of the Academy of Sciences of Ukraine and the Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center, its exhibition now contains unique exhibits, many of which have been in space. So the “temporary” museum has been living in the temple for more than 30 years.

Nikolay:— Indeed, many relics of the history of the region, Ukrainian culture, national traditions and rituals “moved” to us, to Tatar Mountain. When, for example, in the very center of Pereyaslav there was an ancient building of a horse-drawn postal station. And when they began to build a modern trading establishment on that site, the station immediately moved to us, its arrangement was recreated according to the model of the 19th century, and the Postal Station Museum was founded on this basis.

Lyudmila:— Knowing about Sikorsky’s ability to zealously and carefully preserve national relics, our fellow countryman Academician Tolochko, apparently, could not trust anyone else to take care of a unique archaeological find... In the Kiev Podil in the 70s, a metro was built, and at a depth of five meters they found the remains of an ancient craft street. Archaeologists were allowed to excavate only one courtyard. Therefore, since then it has been kept with us, the reconstructed exhibition is of extreme interest to visitors...

At the spring festival

Correspondent: - It looks like your visitors are interested everywhere. Is the museum always as crowded as it is today?

Nikolay:— People are very interested in the history of their region. They come as families and individually; excursions are booked by schoolchildren, students, military personnel...

Various public holidays have been held here for a long time. Today, you see, we celebrate “Green Sunday.” That's why there are especially many guests. A festive symbol - a milestone - was installed on the market square. Amateur artistic groups and masters will gather to glorify the earth, nature, and the sun. Ask the heavenly powers for blessed rain and a bountiful harvest.

Lyudmila:— We have been holding such holidays and festivals since 1986. Since then, when the state still fought against the church, national rituals and ancient beliefs of people. Even then, the museum nevertheless risked returning to national sources...

Media center of the First Excursion Bureau

We went to the open-air museum in Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky. Considering the rainy weather, we decided to prepare in advance. Due to possible frosts, we put Continental ContiVikingContakt 6 winter tires on our car.

The 90 km road flew by unnoticed, and we arrived in Pereyaslav. The town is not large, but very beautiful and has a glorious history, which dates back to the times of Kievan Rus, when the border settlement was only slightly smaller in size than Kiev and Chernigov.

According to legend, it was here that the battle between the young hero, the Kyiv prince Vladimir and the Pecheneg warrior took place. The Ukrainian won, so the city was named Pereyaslav (derived from “took over the glory”). Later, Pereyaslav became one of the key centers of the Cossack state of Bohdan Khmelnytsky, where the Pereyaslav Rada was held. By the way, today there are discussions about returning the historical name of Pereyaslav to the city. It is also called a museum city, and this is absolutely true.

In Pereyaslav there is a national historical and ethnographic reserve of the same name, which includes 23 museums, 13 of them are concentrated in the complex “Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper Region” - the first in Ukraine in the open air. It was founded back in 1964, and some exhibits date back as far as the 4th century BC.

It’s amazing how organically the various museums – electric welding, honey, bread, towel and others – fit into a single complex. Entering the territory, you find yourself in the atmosphere of an original Ukrainian village. Even the numerous workers who maintain perfect order here look like local residents who live in these wonderful huts with viburnum at the gate.

Of all the exhibitions, the most interesting for car enthusiasts is the Land Transport Museum. The development of transport since the time of Trypillian culture is reflected here.

There are sleighs from different centuries, Chumakov carts, prototypes of a dump truck, and what later turned into modern cars - carts and phaetons. It is very interesting to trace the connection between generations in design solutions, operating principles and maintenance of ancient and modern transport. What is typical is that even luxury vehicles comparable to modern Rolls-Royce and Bentley were manufactured in the Ukrainian outback.

In the courtyard of the museum there is a “tire shop” of past centuries - machines for making wooden cart wheels onto which a metal rim is stretched. It served as a kind of reminder of the importance of choosing the right tires and timely switching to winter tires.

This is what a “tire fitting” of past centuries looks like – a machine for making wooden cart wheels onto which a metal rim is stretched

Indeed, in the modern world, wheels look completely different and play a vital role in the safety of the car. We changed our shoes a long time ago - our Suzuki has a brand new set of studless winter tires Continental ContiViking Contact 6. The choice of these particular tires was obvious to us - they were the ones who won the winter tire tests from “Autocenter”.

The new episode of “Tourist Tomorrow” on First Automobile will tell you more:

The open-air museum in Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky is open seven days a week from 9:00 to 17:00. The cost of an entrance ticket to the “Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper Region” is 15 UAH for children and 30 UAH for adults. Visits to individual museums on site are not included in the price and will cost an additional 5-10 UAH. The excursion costs 100 UAH for children, 200 UAH for adults (300 UAH with a guide with knowledge of a foreign language).

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Having got acquainted in the previous parts and having walked around, which turned out to be the intersection of all Ukrainian history, we will finally visit its most famous attraction - the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper, one of the largest and most interesting "skansens" in post-Soviet countries.

My favorite place in Pereyaslav is, of course, the meadows in the Trubezh floodplain, over which, on one side, hangs the St. Michael’s Church with a model of the cathedral on the roof, and on the other, the domes of the “museum” churches, looking out from the grove entwined with mistletoe:

Skansen is located on the very outskirts, almost outside the city, and its main entrance faces in the direction opposite to the center - there is no detour for tourist buses, and it’s a long walk either from the city or from the highway. Therefore, we walked through these meadows to the back door, where the street with the sonorous name Letopisnaya leads. Also outside there is a huge water mill and a dilapidated boat, about the origin of which I have not found anything. At the back entrance we found small dogs that didn’t seem to be aggressive... but as soon as I turned my back to them, one of them pinched my leg through my jeans in a very unpleasant way. At the entrance, however, there is a full-fledged ticket office, and behind it there is a pie and souvenir stall.

Created, like most Soviet scansen, in the 1960s (opened in 1964), the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper turned out to be one of the largest - it contains 185 objects, including 122 buildings: it is inferior to all post-Soviet countries only Kyiv Pirogov (275 buildings) and (189 buildings), noticeably surpassing, for example, Lviv, Riga or Arkhangelsk Malye Korely. Moreover, unlike those museums spread over a vast territory, the Pereyaslav Skansen is quite compact (700 by 400 meters) and there are no problems with navigation - everything is nearby, the layout is logical, and the vast majority of objects are provided with detailed descriptions in Ukrainian. Well, the main “trick” of the Pereyaslavl Scansen is that it presents not only a generally very monotonous rural life, but also a number of non-standard buildings and entire sectors, one of which - with archaeological antiquities and reconstructions - I showed in the first part.

3a. Click on it to open in high resolution.

Entering from the back (Lower) entrance, we came to a fork and began to walk around the museum in a circle, in the diagram - counterclockwise. From the fork to the left there is a natural rural street with the huts of a middle peasant, a leather craftsman and a tavern:

Shinok (tavern) from the 1890s from the village of Rudyaki near Pereyaslav:

Opposite them is a lonely Polesie hut from the village of Vablya in the north of the Kyiv region: from the little that remained of Kyiv Polesie after the Chernobyl disaster, a little less was brought to the museum than from the outskirts of Pereyaslav. It was built like a natural hut, from logs with the ends hanging out, but the hut differs primarily in its layout - the compact entryway and two rooms on the sides are clearly visible.

In the rooms there is a huge stove, Polesie embroidery and looms, but first of all, very beautiful paintings:

And behind the Polesie hut, suddenly, “the hut of the first communards.” I don’t know what was meant here, but for example in Kazakhstan or Kyrgyzstan, countries of former nomads, a considerable part of the villages “fixed” in Soviet times were built like this, such non-national rural architecture.

The street leads to the Church of the Three Saints (1741) from the village of Pishchiki:

And in it there is a museum of the Ukrainian towel. Before my trips to Ukraine, I constantly confused the towel with an embroidered shirt, but in fact the things are completely different: an embroidered shirt is a purely Ukrainian shirt with an ornament, a towel is an embroidered towel, characteristic of the Slavs in general, and in Ukraine this tradition is best preserved.

And even in a church, towels look organic - they often decorate rural churches or graves here:

About 300 towels are exhibited here (and in total there are about 4000 in the museum’s collections) from the Kyiv, Poltava, Cherkassy and Chernigov regions, both ancient, Soviet and new:

A little wood carving - but this is not a decorative element, but a blank for embroidering a towel:

Behind the church there are several windmills (the word “mlyn”, that is, “mill”, in the Ukrainian tradition refers only to water mills). There are 16 of them in the museum, and they stand here and there in groups of several pieces. This windmill is perhaps the most beautiful here:

There are other estates nearby, but I won’t show them all - they are quite monotonous, and the post is exaggerated without it. These, if I’m not mistaken, are outbuildings on the estate of a rich peasant, whose house is depicted in the introductory frame. A strange dug-in barn - as I understand it, an omshanik - a winter refuge for bees (at least there is one in the scansen and it looks very similar):

In the next grove is the largest Church of St. George in the museum (1768) from the village of Andrushi. The decoration inside is quite spectacular, but alas, the doors were closed even in the middle of the day, and as it turned out, we would find ourselves here at the locked gate more than once. Nearby is a memorial sign thanking the Tsar for restoring the village, which was washed away in 1845 by the Dnieper flood.

In the same clearing there is also a gamazeya - this is a store re-imagined in the Ukrainian style (in the Russian version - mangazeya), a grain or flour warehouse:

The potter's estate, which turned out to be closed, contains potter's wheels and samples of folk ceramics, which for some reason are not as well known as folk embroidery. However, I was more impressed by the wooden carving of the pantry:

And sunlit sheaves, I don’t know exactly why they were collected there:

Opposite is a hut on chicken legs, symbolizing a healer's house, and the Beekeeping Museum - on the right you can see a pair of hives with thatched roofs, with a beekeeper's hut attached to it behind the edge of the frame.

The healer’s house, as I understand it, is a distant pavilion of the Museum of Medicinal Plants, most of which is located in another part of the skansen.

Yes, a lonely and seemingly semi-underground chapel, about which I simply found nothing - perhaps the Little Russian analogue of Western chapels or Russian worship crosses, in a word - a place for prayers along the road:

The estate of a rural priest. The priests in the 19th century were educated people by rural standards and had seen a lot, so his hut was under a tiled roof, and inside, they write, there was an urban interior with factory-made dishes.

Somewhere here the “ethnographic” sector itself ends, in which, even with a more than compact territory, we managed to miss a couple of objects, such as the Museum of Memory of the Polesie District, which again tells about the Chernobyl tragedy... however, how much did I lose by not seeing museum hut, if you were in the museum itself, including ?
Behind the ethnographic department, the archaeological department shown in the first part begins, but it is also organized by two wooden churches, both of them Pokrovsky. The temple from the village of Sukhoi Yar (1778) houses the Museum of the History of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church, which includes the priest’s house and numerous crosses from the Middle Ages to the 19th century, grouped in the Cossack cemetery:

The Second Intercession Church from the village of Ostroiki near Belaya Tserkov does not have a museum, but the oldest one here is cut down in 1606. The belfry is not original, but from the Church of St. John the Evangelist of the mid-18th century from the village of Bushevo, and among the mostly small frame belfries of Ukrainian wooden architecture it stands out for its capitality.

And in the local archaeological collection, even the Zbruch Idol has not been forgotten - found in the Austrian part of Podolia (Ternopil region) in 1848, it is now kept in the Archaeological Museum of Krakow, but almost every self-respecting museum of Slavic antiquity is trying to acquire a copy of it. In fact, in Podolia with its canyons there was simply the most accessible stone, so the idols were best preserved there, and it is unlikely that the Zbruch idol was more perfect than the Novgorod Perun or the Kyiv Veles, but nothing better has survived from Slavic paganism to this day.

Somewhere on the other edge of the archaeological sector, a freed man breaks the shackles of the exploiters - again I found nothing about this monument, but the image in it is clearly Soviet:

We pass the main entrance, next to which there is a lapidarium and a Polovtsian mound from the first part and another portion of mills:

Behind which lies the Museum of Bread (1984), essentially another sector depicting the central estate of the collective farm:

In fact, we are talking not so much about bread, but about the equipment used for its production, from semi-wooden ancient machines that were made at or at the gigantic Elvorti plant in the then Elizavetograd, to Soviet tractors, harvesters and the “winged grain grower” An-2, which It’s no coincidence that they’re nicknamed “corn grower.” Next to the wing of the corn mill there is a pavilion that served as a workshop for cutting millstones:

Also included here was a clearly pre-Soviet baker's hut with a thatched roof, and a sculpture of libido-filled grain farmers from the park of a collective farm estate.

The rusty equipment looks like it really is an abandoned collective farm, and I’m sure similar scenes can be found no further than a few tens of kilometers from here. Only a non-self-propelled wooden combine from the early 20th century reminds us that we are in a museum:

On the main building there are bas-reliefs, I don’t know, whether they were made specifically for the museum or taken from other collective farms. Be that as it may, in 1984, when this department was opened, a real collective farm estate could have been built:

Inside there is an exhibition ranging from locomotives to archaeological finds that were once pulled out of the ground by a random plow:

And the Cossack post guards the safety of collective farmers - here is a replica from beginning to end, a century like the 17th. The Siberian forts and the Wild Field battlefields looked similar in those days.

The huge Pyatnitskaya Church (1833) from the village of Vyunishchi is an example of not Ukrainian, but all-Russian wooden architecture, which is sometimes called “wood under a stone.” Perhaps this is one of the “ants” (although the executioner of Lithuanian identity, Mikhail Muravyov-Vilensky, was somewhat later), quickly built in some village, which in those years, with the stroke of a pen, converted from liquidated Greek Catholicism to Orthodoxy. Nowadays the church houses the Space Museum, and probably (if it were open) the rockets, spacesuits and satellites under the temple vault are incredibly impressive. Today's Ukraine, based on the Soviet legacy, "closes the bottom of the top five leading space powers" (I came across this phrase when I was writing), and at least such fathers of Soviet cosmonautics as Sergei Korolev or Mikhail Yangel came from Ukraine.

Well, then there is no longer a scansen, but simply a group of museums, each of which occupies a house or estate across the grove from the neighboring one. From the Sholom Aleichem Museum, collected in an ordinary hut from the belongings of this Yiddish writer born in Pereyaslav, I only photographed a very picturesque chicken coop:

Opposite the church is the 19th century Postal Station that previously stood in the city, the third from Kyiv along the Poltava Road:

We didn’t go inside, but what’s most impressive outside is the coat of arms:

In those days, postal stations also served as something like train stations, where they changed horses (running from station to station) or gave their own for feeding and shoeing. So next to the Postal Station is the Museum of People's Land Transport, that is, an overly long hangar of various types of carts from wheelbarrow to carriage:

There is, by the way, even a Chumak cart from the 18th century - the Chumaks went to the Black Sea and Azov estuaries for salt, risking falling into Tatar captivity and Turkish slavery, but such a cart saved the village from the need to buy salt, the only vital commodity that the peasants could not grow it themselves. Alas, I completely forgot about this cart, so I don’t even know if it was included in the frame.

Nearby, under the awnings, there is a wheelwright’s workshop:

I once flew past the Museum of Ukrainian Folk Rituals, but the Museum of Applied Arts turned out to be closed in the quite skillfully decorated Master's House, where a small noble landowner lived - not all of them lived in estates with columned porticos. The applied art itself is from the Soviet era, from the Ukrainian SSR exhibitions of 1970-71.

And another similar house from the village of Voronkov near Boryspil (where, by the way, the already mentioned Sholom Aleichem spent his childhood) is occupied by the technical museum of Nikolai Benardos. A descendant of Greek officers on the one hand and the Ural industrialists Demidovs on the other, in 1881 he invented “Electrohephaestus” - electric welding, which completely changed many laws of construction: a huge number of rivets are always striking on old metal structures. What’s interesting is that electric welding was almost from start to finish a Russian invention: it was theoretically substantiated in 1802 by Vasily Petrov, and in practice and in a closer to modern form it was introduced in 1888 in Perm by Nikolai Slavyanov. In total, Benardos created about two hundred inventions, from agricultural machinery to bullets with a displaced center of gravity, and these same inventions, or more precisely batteries with their lead vapors that destroy the body, destroyed him. I didn’t understand only one thing - what does Benardos have to do with Pereyaslav? He was born near Elizavetograd (now Kropyvnytskyi, and until recently Kirovograd), worked mainly in the town of Lukh in the current Ivanovo region and in St. Petersburg, presented “Electrogefest” in Paris, and died in Fastov on the right bank of the Kiev region.

Nearby is the Hunting Lodge of Prince Konstantin Gorchakov, Kyiv Governor-General in 1877-78 (apparently, when the house was built) and the son of the “Iron Chancellor” Alexander Gorchakov, which seems to be without a museum.

I have seen scansens built on the territory of old estates (for example, near Torzhok), but this is not the case - the house was moved from the village of Tashan, and in my opinion it is interesting precisely as an ordinary one, that is, the most characteristic example of its genre and era. And I don’t know if they brought a wooden gazebo with it:

But all around is a natural manor park and an overgrown pond with a chapel on an island:

And old trees, whose roots are thicker than others - trunks:

I also don’t know where this anchor near the path leading back to the back door comes from, but even larger pre-Mongol anchors lie in the city (see the first part):

Left aside were a couple of peasant estates, a tavern (apparently still in operation), museums of forestry and medicinal plants on the site of a Jewish cemetery (which is reminiscent of a memorial sign with a tombstone), and we passed the following courtyards of a cooper, weaver and other artisans at a brisk pace:

Although Pereyaslav is compact, it’s a city, a museum, but there was even less time:

The last memorable exhibit was the village government:

This is where I’ll end the story about Pereyaslav. In a good way, living in Kyiv, it’s worth going here at least twice - a day for the Skansen and a day for the city, just so that all the museums inside the Skansen are open... A complete list of museums in Pereyaslav is on Wikipedia and a little less complete on the official website , and I didn’t manage to even briefly mention all of them in three posts: there is also a sculpture museum on Kotlyarevsky Street, an art gallery, a folk costume museum in the St. Michael’s Monastery and a museum of the history of philosophy somewhere near the local skansen. And yet, to summarize, I will say that with all the abundance of attractions, Pereyaslav-X is not very catchy, and in terms of the power of impression it is inferior to some Priluky or Romny in about the same way as a museum exhibit is inferior to a “real” thing.

In the next two parts we will go to the Right Bank Kiev region - to a huge city called Bila Tserkva.

UKRAINE and DONBASS-2016
. Review and table of contents.
Two sides of the same war- see table of contents.
DPR and LPR- see table of contents.
Vinnitsa, Zaporozhye, Dnepr- see table of contents.
Kievan Rus
. Ancient Rus' in the museum and the city.
. City.
Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky. Skansen.
Pryluki. Gustyn Monastery.
Pryluki. City.
Nezhin. Miscellaneous.
Nezhin. Old city.
White church. City.
White church. Alexandria Park.
Kyiv before and after Maidan- there will be posts.
Little Russian Ring- there will be posts.

The town on the banks of the Dnieper - (since 2017 - Pereyaslav), is known in Ukraine as a city of museums, of which there are more than 25 in its small territory. All museums are part of the National Historical and Ethnographic Reserve "Pereyaslav", and most of them are located in a unique open air museum - Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper Region.

Construction of Ukraine's first open-air museum began in 1964 on Tatar Mountain. The main theme of the museum, which is spread over an area of ​​25 hectares, is the life of the Middle Dnieper region. More than 300 unique objects recreate the life of different eras - from the Stone Age to the home of the late 19th century.

On the picturesque territory of the museum there are 122 architectural monuments, about 20 courtyards with houses and workshops, which allow you to see how different segments of the population lived and worked in those days. The decoration of the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of the Middle Dnieper is the most beautiful arboretum and two artificial ponds.

At the entrance to the museum, guests are “greeted” monuments of Scythian tribes, dated VI-IV millennium BC. A little further there are houses from the times of Kievan Rus (XI century), in which poor people lived.

The 16th-19th centuries are presented as typical for Transnistria rural yards and houses. You can see houses that belonged to families with different income levels - from poor to rich, as well as different professions (a potter's house, a midwife's house, a priest's house, a cooper's house, a weaver's house).

Many churches were brought to the museum from different parts of Transnistria. For example, the very first iconic attraction of the museum was Church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary- a temple built back in Cossack times (1606) on the territory of the Belotserkovsky eldership. Installed next to it Bell tower XVIII century, which was brought from the village of Bushevo in the Rokitnyansky district in the 1970s. Recreated near the church Cossack cemetery with stone and wooden crosses brought from destroyed cemeteries in the 18th century.

No less interesting are the defensive buildings of those times, presented Cossack pledge XVII century. Similar fortresses were built on the borders of Cossack territories and were surrounded by a moat and high towers. Inside such buildings there were stables and dwellings of the Cossacks.

Museum map

In addition to walking through the open-air museum, which is undoubtedly Ukraine, we recommend visiting thematic museums located on its territory:

1. Museum of Ukrainian Rituals and Customs.

2. Museum of the History of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church.

3. Museum of the towel.

4. Museum of Medicinal Plants.

5. Beekeeping Museum.

6. Museum of N. N. Benardos (inventor of electric arc welding of metals).

7. Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts.

8. Space Museum.

9. Land Transport Museum.

10. Museum "Post Station".

11. Bread Museum.

12. Museum of the writer Sholom Aleichem.

You can visit the Open Air Museum in Pereyaslav-Khmelnitsky either independently or as part of a tour.

Nearby are: ,